bigjohn

VAG changed the cam belt time interval from 4 to 5 years for cars produced from about 2010

P0299 is an underboost error - combined with a hissing noise symptom, you probably have a leak somewhere in the turbo pipework or connectors / intercooler

How about buy through a broker site to get a new one to your spec for less - eg Drivethedeal seems to have some reasonable discounts although others sites are available. Used cars do seem to be rather overpriced at the mo. PS that is quite a colour - hadn't seen that anywhere before. I'd like a change from silver or grey when I change and not black or white. Petrol blue has caught my attention but I'm still not sure.

Hopefully not the kangaroo issue as seen with some 1.5 mkIII's

Tesco Momentum 99 will not cause it to run rich. Check if anything has beed disturbed when the Evap Canister was replaced. A dislodged breather pipe etc would mess the emissions up. Co2 isn't measured though on the MOT.

I'm not 100% sure the 1.5tsi manual even has a DMF (the DSG will have). If it doesen't then the clutch friciton plate will have some springs as part of the assembly - I wonder if with the 1.5 &150ps this is on the limit of what a SMF setup can cope with? Just a thought.

I'm lucky wih my 1.4tsi 2014 Superb - they don't seem to fit the dreaded "Sillykat " bag with the smaller petrol tsi engines. My sons 1.2tsi 2016 Octavia III doesn't have it either - Indeed it was something we looked for when buying last year! There is a replacement header tank available without it and surprise surprise the dealers usually even have these in stock. It was fitted to slowly replenish silica in the g13 coolant. To compensate adding a G13 coolant refresh to the service schedule every few years would suffice(good idea anyway!) - I think it's to do with minimising corrosion of aluminium components within the engine.

Er just a few:- and...

Not mine yet - just considering at the moment but found that option in quite a few Skoda models - will make dashcam installation much easier in the future if specified! I was waiting for the new Octavia to see what that was like but I'm not keen on no buttons to control the climate control and the much smaller small 45l fuel tank. The Superb is back on my radar but I originally wanted to down size!

I'm pretty sure the USB ports turn off (unlike the 12v sockets) - probably worth testing with a cable connected to a phone that will show when it is charging. With MY 2020 cars now in the options list of the brochure - "1x USB-C port in the rear-view mirror panel."

Sorry I didn't want to scare the horses - just feeding back previous experience of low oil pressure at tickover! However I agree with start simple. The only bearings to shake will be the big end bearings - and they can seem fine even if they are not if the engine has recently run due to retained oil. Rotating the engine first a few times by hand can help (sump removed so no oil pickup) Smell the old oil - if the bottom end is serious distress it will smell "cream crackered" - I've found oil after a failed engine due to big ends/mains etc has a distinctive smell. I suspect this isn't the case here. Actually you have given a useful snippet of info in that your father was the first owner and you know its history from new - so it still has the original standard sized big and main bearing shells installed. If there isn't an oil starvation issue and as you say if the engine is running fine then it could just be the bit of leakage past worn (but not broken!) bearings is enough to give lowish oil pressure at tickover with thin (hot) oil then there coud be a couple of "simple (ish)" options:- Do nothing(presuming no starvation issue as above!) - Borderline pressure at tickover may be ok - seems ok in use as the revs rise. Temporarily connecting an oil pressure gauge may be a useful diagnostic - It could last for years like this! Whilst the sump is off it could be possible to change the big end shell for replacement "standard" ones, this will reduce oil pressure loss past some worn shells - obviously it wont fix main bearings or any crank issues but it could be enough to keep the engine running ok for years without removing it. NB I once did this to a Viva 1256 engine - the big end bearings had worn down to the copper backing and the crank was ok ish, the new bearings gave the car a new lease of life and it was still running ok with them when it expired due to terminal rust! PS You'll need to run the engine in a bit if new shells are fitted. A Haynes manual or equiv would be useful but remember to keep big end caps in the same order and orientation and examine old shells and how they are installed as there can be oil holes in them etc,

Did you replace the pd injector wiring loom while you were at it? A know fail (especially when disturbed) due to the wires being in hot oil and they get brittle. Can show up as a faulty injector!

Common issue:-

I'm not 100% convinced re strainer although clearly it needs checking when off and when driving at speed it could be partially blocked with things that drop off when the engine is stopped. I myself think it is something worse though - I've experienced this in the past with worn main / possiby big end bearings that loose oil pressure past the worn bearings especially when the oil is hot/thin. On very early smaller Ford engines that had a three main bearing crank (mid 60's) they suffered wear in the main bearings (especially the middle one) that caused exactly the same hot oil low pressure issue at idle. The 5 bearing crank engines (pre crossflow ) that were introduced when the MKII Cortina was introduced were bullet proof. PS it is very hard to check for main bearing wear in situ The reason I mention it is I think the Felicia has a three bearing crank. It might be enough to sort this with a new set of shells but this is still an engine out job. Probably better to replace with a better engine from a scrapyard though as the rest of the engine will still have a lot of wear (sump gasket leak might be a clue - increased crankcase pressure due to bore/ring/piston wear!)

Mine is a facelift and only has the usual three remote buttons lock/unlock and one in the middle to open the boot. This only opens the boot a little bit. The only way of opening as a hatch is pushing the right hand button on the boot/hatch itself ( I think this was simplified on the facelift - push right boot button to open as hatch, middle boot button to open as boot) To be honest usually the only time I open as a boot is when I'm on a ferry or in a restricted height multistorey car park but I find this useful - especially on North Sea Ferries where it's really easy to damage your hatch if you are not careful. Must admit I will miss the twindoor when I eventually replace the car.

Also - try rebooting the bluetooth module which is under the drivers seat (UK car). Unplug the module, leave for a few mins and plug back in.

Mine is a 2014 with probably one of the later EA111 engines- still says G12 on the expansion bottle though - don't know what is actually in it though! It'll be interesting to see if G13 helps.

That's really interesting - the G13 Coolant is supposed to be better for aluminium components. I wonder if there is some sort of reaction going on with G12++. Saying that mine is fine with 86k miles on the clock - unless they changed the coolant a bit with the facelift model or revised the waterpump. Still says G12 on the expansion tank though.

A regen cannot happen when the engine is not running - what you describe are the cooling fans running. The fans running can be associated with the regen process as they are kicked into life as things can get hot! An indication of a regen still in progress when you stop can be the fans are running , but the fans shoud stop after a while when things cool down - and in this scenario that would be a failed regeneration. It sound's like something is not right , possibly a sensor somewhere. I'd suggest getting it to somewhere that can read any codes stored and properly diagnose- although a totally flat battery might not help with this! As well as having issues with the battery being flattened the DPF itself might not be happy now if your car has had a lot of failed regenerations - check your oil level to make sure it's not too high with diesel dilution. I'd suggest getting this properly diagnosed ASAP before things become more expensive.

Worth checking that the suspension delivery blocks have been removed:-

It's not something in the cleaning products is it? Mine are still looking ok (facelift verison )

Youtube has many a video on this - especially re Audis of a certain age that also have this engine

It's in the Skoda Superb Guides:-

Just using sandpaper by hand probably won't be enough to shift that rust on the wheel arch. When I used to restore cars I used a combination of a wire brush then a sanding disc attached to a small angle grinder. Infact I used to had a few grinders on the go on the same job One with a cutting disc (not needed in your case unless that rust is worse than it looks), another with a grinding disc (to gring back welds - again hopefully not needed) then one with a wire brush and the last with a sanding disc. If you leave any rust in the pitting it'll be back in no time. I'd suggest the wirebrush and a sanding disc in your case and after sanding back it may be worth applying a little Kurust before etch primer. The etch primer is designed to have a chemical reaction with the bare steel below. The chips on the sills could be prepared using a Dremel + Kurust + possibly a dab of etch primer + then maybee just a touch up pen.

What year is the car? Fixing the rust involves more than just painting - there will be a lot of work to do here to properly sand back the affected areas and then use correct primers (eg etch if bare metal to start with) and careful blending of top coats otherwise it will look awful plus correct application of lacquer coat. That wheelarch rust looks well established and by the photo it looks as though it'll need a lot more paint wire brushing/sanding back. The sill chips look easier to sort. To get at some of the issues you'll need to remove the wheel arch liners as well. If that is what the workshop is doing then I'd suggest that is 325 Euros well spent.