bigjohn

If you've driven on a totally flat tyre then the internal structure will be damaged and potentially dangerous. Myself- I'd fit a new tyre (and valve!)

The joys of motoring - would have been a much steeper dealer bill if you'd had it done there though.

Agreed in a way - I had a mkII Capri 2.0 ghia which was the affordable in car to have at the time. I also had a mkIV Cortina when I started travelling a lot of a similar vintage that was vastly superior to drive. The Capri (even later ones) had cart leaf springs at the rear - horrible things whereas the mkIII & mkIV Cortina had coil springs (still had a live rear axle though) . The Cortina also had double wishbone front suspension. Cortina was also way more refined. HOWEVER back in the day the Capri was cool and the Cortina was just a reps car. If I could go back in time I would have mothballed both of them - I'd be richer now!!

It's not a matter of cancelling. Have you merged the side light wiring onto one feed for the trailer socket somehow? - this would confuse the individual bulb detection. If you can undue all the wiring changes to see if all ok - the lights are re-tested when you turn the ignition on. Can I presume you haven't changed anything else such as car rear sidelight bulb type etc? Did you use a bypass relay module as part of the wiring?

Yup - I remember that with my old pd Superb back in the day - when it sprang a vacuum leak all power vanished under 2000rpm. After a while it also put it into limp home mode on long journeys though.

Just in case - how is the battery? Might be worth keeping an eye on the voltage pre starting. Just wondering about "even then it might not come on again. Until its cold.". If it's running on startup with low voltage for a while it can sometimes throw up strange errors. The combination of cold weather and "fettling" might have affected it's performance if it's getting on a bit, especially following lockdowns etc over the past year or so. "Cooling fan current circuit low" an interesting message - sometimes a failing fan can take a fuse out. Check battery first though.

Why not take it back to the specialist that did the work?

Wont that just confuse things if permanently shorted out?

Surely look at the last thing that happened "Last week in the snow my sump sensor came off." I'd say check / repair wiring around the switch first - it may have sustained damage. Also fit an original fitment switch. Do this before disturbing the sump. Make sure the oilway to the switch is clean - if you snapped it off did some rubbish get in? Normally if something is wrong with oil pump/crank etc then low oil pressure is worse when warm. [EDIT] Re read - you no longer have the red low oil pressure light on - just the orange oil level light? Why remove the sump? Oil pump has nothing to do with oil level. Isn't the oil level sensor separate - have you disturbed / damaged this? and I presume the oil level isn't low? Also just confirming which car do you have? Your signature says Octavia but this is the Superb mk II section. Think CFGB is a Superb II engine though.

VAG cars of this age use G13 coolant.

I keep a couple of these in my car to avoid trolley jack damage:- https://www.amazon.co.uk/BornFeel-Universal-Protector-Motorbike-Workshop/dp/B07R7N5SCL/ref=asc_df_B07R7N5SCL/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=226168125559&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6618288599875661132&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006514&hvtargid=pla-760563172202&psc=1 If you do raise ride height it would be worth following up with a 4 wheel geometry check as if your car has the independent rear suspension the rear camber figures might be affected.

You also get more miles out of them - I've generally been getting 35k miles + out of a set of 205/55 r16's, My current favourites are Michelin Crossclimates - good in most conditions inc ice/snow & v hot but fabulous in the wet. They were also a lot quieter than the original Continentals.

It's also possible to overtighten the oil filter on an EA111 engine damaging the non return and drain back valves which can cause oil pressure issues. As Wino & Xman mentioned it's also easy to leave behind a previous sealing ring as well - which also causes havoc. Either problem could affect the pressurization of the cam chain tensioner and cause potential engine damage.

Great outcome 🙂

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Possibly on the auto - but even on my previous gen 125ps tsi manual you don't need to scream the engine to make pretty rapid progress. Saying that as the revs rise it can be addictive holding onto a gear as you get that nice petrol zap!

Check the service history especially the 4x4 Haldex that needs oil/filter replacement every 40k miles. On the test drive does the 4wd system work ok? If you boot it from a standstill and get lots of front wheel spin then it might not be. In addition - has the cambelt been changed?

E10 unleaded 95 RON was introduced in September and has a reduced calorific value compared to the E5 95 RON so you would see a reduced mpg. My wife's Panda had to have a tank of E10 during the fuel crisis and it's MPG is indeed lower than usual. Super unleaded is still E5. Myself I prefer Tesco Greenenergy which is 99RON and not that much more expensive.

The concentric cylinder is a known fail point though - don't think there is an inline valve but not 100% sure. I discovered mrs BJ's Panda had a strange valve on the end of the external slave when clutch was making a funny squeak when hot - in the end the pedal stuck to the floor. New slave & valve restored normality. I can't peek on my own Superb as the clutch is rather different on the 1.4tsi.

Is the level of the brake/clutch fluid going down in the reservoir? Any fluid dripping from the bottom of the gearbox bellhousing? It sounds like you have actually changed the master cylinder? - this is the one mechanically operated by the clutch pedal. The diesel version has a concentric slave cylinder inside the bellhousing where you have to remove the gearbox to fix so you might as well replace the whole clutch assembly - it'll be contaminated anyway if fluid leaking from the slave cylinder. Also consider the condition of the Dual Mass Flywheel.

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I think they have the same mechanical bits. Double check both gearboxes have the same slave cylinder arrangements etc You might get a better response if the mods could move this to the Superb mkI Forum

As you have posted in the mkII Superb section I'm presuming you have a mkII Superb as the mkI was also still available this year. The mkII Superb has a transverse engine / gearbox and the B5 has an inline North/South engine/gearbox so is in a totally different orientation . NB The earlier mkI Superb is inline. The later B6 Passat is transverse. Have you got a local gearbox specialist? I had the gearbox rebuilt on a Fist Panda for about £600 ish all in including clutch and any components within the bellhousing (my request).

Did you ever diagnose the original issue? The camshaft way just be a symptom - eg was the original issue oil pressure related causing "Engine started making a tapping sound ". If so now you have new camshaft, tappets/lifters etc if there isn't enough oil pressure it won't manage to fill the new hydraulic tappets. I think you need to measure oil pressure. You mention oil chain had tension - but was the oil pump actually operating correctly. Did you check pickup pipe? Also cam shafts don't usually "just fail" but the will gradually wear out for whatever reason unless there has been another catastrophic incident. Any other things to consider, any recent work - even if it seems unrelated? Any other symptoms eg smoke before / after the issue? How did the drained oil smell? - after a major oil pressure incident where big ends/mains are involved it take on a cream crackered distinctive smell.

Lift pump in fuel tank?