bigjohn

Sounds as though you might have a leak in the turbo pipework somewhere - could also potentially explain the MAF error you have. Thoroughly check where it connects too/from intercooler. Don't panic if you see a bit of oil.

Re No 1) I never had the MAF issue in my ownership but I seem to remember it was very easy to get at - can't fully remember but I think it's top left under the bonnet, Replace with new. Re No 2) - front suspension. The Superb I is known for front suspension parts wearing out and not always coming apart, however replacing with the full kit of parts sounds like a plan. On my Superb I during my 10 year ownership in the last few years I seemed to have a joint or two needing replacement every other MOT. Make sure the outer CV boots are also in tip top condition as it's very cheap and easy to replace whilst in bits! Likewise with steering rack bellows/boots. Re No 3) - A colleague who bought my previous 2003 Superb had this issue - in the end it turned out to be the tandem vacuum pump failing. It's been ok since replacement. The tandem pump (tandem as it's a vacuum and diesel pump) is a known weak spot with the 1.9pd. PS it's at the top back of the engine near the bulkhead. Check the pipe between the servo and tandem pimp - which has a "T" off in the middle to feed the pd vacuum controls.

Just checked on mine(also an led facelift twin door) and the fog light is on the right cluster - could this be the usual twindoor wiring fail? I suppose you'd expect a bulb fail warning but not sure if the led fog light is covered by that?

You need to take it back to the supplying dealer - the law is on your side :- https://www.theaa.com/car-buying/legal-rights

In the UK the Rapid is no more but the Scala replacement is very similar re body design to the previous Rapid Spaceback although the interior has been updated. The Rapid Hatchback lives on in some countries such as Russia - and many things such as the interior look very much like the Scala. Looks pretty good actually!

Usually the only way is to pull the handbrake on a bit harder. The new pads still might need a bit more bedding in as well it can take a few thousand miles especially when fitting to old disks. Also new pads may or may not have a taper on the friction material to help this bedding in process - this can mean slightly less friction material in contact for a while. Must have been a really steep hill! What engine does it have out of interest?

As part of replacing the rear pads you will have wound back the caliper hydraulic piston with a special tool - this mechanism is the self adjustment. Usually if you have to adjust handbrake cables then something isn't quite right. This has been the case with almost every brake system for decades with various adjustment mechanisms - some better that others! I remember the one on the mkII Cortina, hopeless. The ones on VAG cars usually ok but handbrake lever can seize somewhat if neglected. As mentioned further up the thread the condition of all the brake components is really important. Are the calipers free to slide and what condition are the discs? If caliper sliders are stiff then handbrake may be only acting on one pad - which when it does slide may release somewhat If disks are corroded/scored/worn then it's less than ideal and new pads will take 1000's of miles to bed in As it's a major safety component I'd suggest a qualified mechanic checks it over. With rear disks don't forget as it cools and contracts the action of the handbrake will reduce (with drum brakes it's the opposite)

Hi, I realised that. I only mentioned re the life of your MKII , however I think your engine should be robust although if a manual keep an eye on the clutch. There have been some issues with the Sachs pressure plate falling apart and damaging the gearbox casing. I loved my previous mkI even though it was only the 100ps 1.9pd. It was a fantastic continental cruiser. I do like my mkII but I always preferred the suspension/ride comfort of the mkI. Saying that my petrol mkII is somewhat quieter and economy not that much worse than it's diesel predecessor. However re the theme of this thread I doubt I'll achieve the starship mileage of some of the mkI's - especially compared to the 1.9. My next-door neighbour has a 2003 1.9pdAudi Avant that looks mechanically identical to my old mkI Superb 1.9 pd that's now nearly 400 k miles and running well.

Gearbox rebuild was around £600 all in inc labour/fitting - However the Panda has a smaller gearbox and doesn't have a DMF but cost inc new clutch and I insisted on replacement of everything "inside" the bellhousing inc the funny lever release fork Fiat uses

I was surprised how much higher the rear end of my FL twindoor was after the rear springs were replaced.

Why not get it sorted by a gearbox specialist? I used one for mrs BJ's Panda when it started making awful noises. Now sounds/ feels better than it was new! In our case we used Wallis Auto Engineering Hull. Looking in your area - https://www.neilengineering.co.uk/ ?

1) For the metallic spinning at idle the I'd still suggest - "With your head under the bonnet at tick over can you tell where the metallic spinning noise is coming from? Front or rear of engine etc." 2) Re bearing noise - If tyres are new (bearing like noise common with certain tyre wear patterns common with the mkII) then bearings need checking. If bearing then noise usually gets worse with extra weight load such as cornering. Does it change as you steer to the right or left?

The slight problem is your mkII Superb is transverse, it's only the mkI that's "length wise". All good though the 2.0 170 CR diesel is a cracker. My previous 2003 mk I is still mechanically going strong under new ownership with well over 250k miles now. Rust starting to be an issue though.

Which noise is there when idling and stationary? Getting confused - two faults?

Mis fitted timing belt? or was it already making the noise before this was done. It's always worth checking anything recently done. With your head under the bonnet at tick over can you tell where the metallic spinning noise is coming from? Front or rear of engine etc.

Which engine/gearbox? 2wd/4wd? Note:-

I'd suggest waterpump , any clues re colour of the liquid? As it's drivers side wheel I've ignored the aircon condensate drain Sunroof fitted?

My son's 2016 Octavia did this a few months ago when we moved tyres front to rear and vice versa. You could feel a slight sawtooth wear on the tyres moved to the front from the rear. However it's subsided after travelling a few further thousand miles or so. To detect the sawtooth issue - rub hand clockwise over tread - then anti clockwise to feel the difference. Usually inner or outer edges.

"For a slight push on the pedal the engine quickly revs up, but falls back on the clucth release and revs up again, causing the hesitation." After clutch release it shouldn't rev up again without the car speeding up without the clutch slipping? or is it not fully released? I'm not sure you can check operation of throttle valve with ignition on/engine off as there is a complex startup algorithm that controls all sorts of things to minimise emissions (airwash, rapid catalyst light up etc). I've driven my sons 2016 1.2 Octavia a few times and have never noticed a problem with his. [EDIT] When driving at slow speeds + lower revs if you floor the throttle how does if feel - any hesitation or feeling of dropping a cylinder. These engines are very plugs/coils sensitive

Or is it the other way round? - is the underlying issue oil pressure? The chain tensioner relies on oil pressure.

The other benefit of having higher profile tyres on 16" rims is tyre life. I'm getting well over 35k miles out of a set of tyres on my poverty spec which was fitted with 205/55 R16's from new. Now fitted with Crossclimates the road noise is even lower

Window cleaners visited?

Likewise, not quite 100k miles yet for me - 94k miles. No real issues, just front brakes and a couple of broken springs - oh and 1st lockdown upset the battery (never failed per say, but replaced anyway) . I extended to a five year warranty but having owned from 14months old but I never needed it for anything. Overall I'd agree - fantastic car. Reliable, refined, comfortable, economical AND I fit in it!

By driving for a mile with no oil pressure you've probably damaged the engine - first part of self destruction usually the big end and main bearings. The red oil light means STOP - NOW! Patching a sump doesn't usually work as not much will adhere to it with oily surfaces etc. Don't keep running the engine until you know the state of play and what damage has been done to the sump, dipstick, oil strainer/pipe/pump. Probably first job is to drop the sump - you just might get lucky. If big end / mains are damaged then even when oil / feed restored you may loose oil pressure out of the side of the cream crackered bearings. Years ago I had this with a Ford 2.0 that had failed due to the oil pump hex drive shaft of doom(went round). Even when oil pump sorted it sort of ran OK cold but when the engine/oil warmed up you got the horrible bottom end death rattle.