MATT0693

There are a couple of reference for the rear shocks I believe, probably worth checking what is on there and if they are interchangeable. 3Q0 513 045 AD, 3Q0 513 045 AC, 3Q0513 045 AJ, 3Q0 513 045 AT The Bilstien B4's are a good shout as a replacement, you might even be able to source a deal with them being aftermarket.

I fit a lot of Brembo to customers cars, the issues are very few and far between. I think the number of posts on the internet are relative to the high sales volume of Brembo against other brands, or I've just been extremely lucky. Delphi are another good brand for braking, they come as standard on quite a few cars.

Welcome to the forum! 👍

They aren't one piece to my knowledge, are you petrol or diesel? The petrol one looks something like this.

I'm a mechanic by trade so I can stamp my own book and I keep the parts invoices with the registration on as proof. I agree with roottoot, I'd rather see invoices with the parts information than a service stamp, you can buy dealership stamps online for £20 and falsify a full dealer history.

I've always over serviced my diesel vehicles, especially if they are worked hard. Petrol cars I tend to stick to the service schedule unless it does a lot of short trips, then its worth shortening the oil/filter schedule a little. I'm lucky as I get good rates on the parts and do the work myself, otherwise it wouldn't be viable. My TDI VRS is roughly £25-30 for an oil & filter change, so I don't mind doing it every 6k if it needs it.

I've had mixed experiences, the best experience I've had is probably Available car but it would be a bit of a drive from you. All of the cars are unlocked, priced and spec sheet in the window, no body follows you around or approaches you whilst browsing. If you are interested just go to reception with the reg number and ask to test drive, they have no limit on the number you can test drive. As others have said, I think if you're realistic and choose to test a couple at a quiet time most dealers are happy to oblige. Those that make it awkward, are pushy or generally unwelcoming l just walk away from as the aftersales service is also likely to be terrible.

Was a copy of the service history not provided with the car at the point of sale? Give the dealership a call, they should just print it out for you. It is also worth checking local VAG specialists, they should have access to the records and will update them if work is carried out through them. You can buy blank service books online if you wish to have it serviced else where, or just keep the invoices as reference of the work.

The 'usual' tools will be sufficient; jack, stands, spanners, socket set, pliers, torque wrench.. the most important is the correct timing tool kit to lock everything. You will also need a special socket for the crank from from memory. I personally wouldn't attempt it without the correct timing tools, if it isn't aligned correctly or the tensioner isn't right... it will get very costly! I have only done one 1.2TSI, the rough process was: Remove Covers Remove Aux Belt Remove Bottom Pulley Remove Aux Tensioner Move Alternator Remove Airbox/Pipes on RH side of engine (water pump side) Lock Crank/Cams Swap Components Reinstall The job isn't massively expensive at a garage, so if you need to purchase tools to complete the job it would be worth weighing up the costs. A garage will give you warranty and should something go wrong, they are equipped to deal with it. If you snap a bolt on the drive, the car is stuck there until you sort it. (I've seen this happen)

I spent weeks looking for one with heated seats, in the end I purchased one without. Just had a look on Autotrader and can only find one Petrol, Manual VRS estate under £12k, so it may be a case of compromising in places to get one at the right money.

Hi, This message is caused by the level sensor in the tank, do you know if the replacement tank is 100% working? If the fault isn't with the tank, then it could be an issue with the wiring that needs to be checked.

Not sure if is the part you are looking for? If it is, just make sure you use the post 09 part number.

If you need all the OE numbers and cross references, feel free to drop me a message with your reg as I have access to the OE dealer system. 👍

I like to change them where possible, if I have to re-use old fittings I tend to give them a good clean but either way I have never had an issue. I recently changed my front shocks & mounts and all the bolts came supplied with the exception of 19, that was supplied with the droplink... TPS quoted me around £15 for the fastners so it isn't bank breaking if you do need them.

They still do them, I think it is something like £140 for a basic inspection. EDIT: Roottoot beat to the post

You will definitely get it cheaper at an indy. From memory the Brembo rears for mine are around £80, they are coated and have black painted hubs too.

Just because the vehicle has been to Skoda, doesn't mean you had a good technician or one that could be arsed to do their job properly. The whole point of vehicle diagnostics is to find out what is wrong using the data, knowledge and experience... to many places are willing to charge £X for a 30min slot which consists of a plug in and a quick visual. I am in the trade and have seen it time and time again, it is amazing how many vehicles come in with the incorrect diagnosis. My point is that there actually might not be a fault, it could just be a case of the DPF has reached the end of its serviceable life and is the root cause of all your issues. Do you know what the oil ash mass level is? Does the car do many miles per month, and do you do many short trips? I have seen many a vehicle have DPF issues before a car has reached 100k. I have done a couple of vans at around 70k because of short trips.

Engines do tend to use some oil during the 'running in' period. It may not have been full at the point of purchase, it isn't unheard off. Either top it up yourself and monitor the consumption, or pop into the dealer and ask them to do it, at least it will be on their records then should you find an issue further down the line.

Has any live data been checked? It could be that the DPF has reached 'end of life' due to oil ash mass... especially if the car is high-mileage or only doing short trips. You need someone to do the relevant logging and checks across the DPF and boost sensors, if the DPF is blocked the engine is going to find it harder to breathe so it could well cause turbo issues or the ECU to back off the boost. If it was me, I would get the data checked, especially the DPF Oil Ash Mass and decided if you want to replace it or have it cleaned. If having it cleaned you are going to need it done off the car as the additive type cleaners aren't going to cut it. Then get the garage to do the relevant logging for the turbo, make sure the actuator etc is functioning as it should. Using a reputable garage / VAG Specialist will save you a lot of money long term, you need to avoid people who just plug the car in and fire up the parts cannon!

Have you deleted the codes to see if they appear again? Also any further information on the codes would be beneficial, usually it will state 'defective, Implausible Signal, Incorrect Adaption'.

I have done a few of these on Mk4 Golfs and its a simple enough job, just a case of disconnecting everything as per the post above. I personally like to change the arms, ball joints, tie rods, drop links and bushes whilst I'm there if they are old, it just gives the car a good refresh whilst you have everything off. If you don't want to mess around removing the rack, you can tie it up and support it to save the hassle of disconnecting pipes/tie rods etc. (On the Golf at least) If you do remove the rack don't forget new washers for the banjos and some fresh fluid. It is also worth looking at the steering rack bush whilst you are there.

No audible warning, it is only there for awareness. If you get very close the big red warning appears along with the audible warning... shortly followed by the car slamming the brakes on if ignored

You are best asking the garage its booked in at. In theory an hour or so but all manor of delays could happen that pushes your ramp slot back, especially if you aren't first job of the day. This is why they often won't commit to a time slot and say they will call when it is ready. You also need to factor in any of the 'free' wash/valet & health check services that they may be offering.

I have a 66' TDI DSG and it seems to average mid-40's across a tank, especially in cooler weather. I did see 63mpg after 80miles on the motorway last week at normal motorway speeds, the 110mile journey finished at 59mpg due to traffic on the A roads. The MPG of these cars is well documented on here, It seems mid-40s is common.

It could be that the cable has snapped or an issue with the mechanism/caliper itself. To check that adjustments are working, you can jack the vehicle up and spin the wheel by hand, then check again after your adjustment and the wheel should be harder to spin or not spin at all.