MATT0693

I personally use Gates and INA and have never had a problem, both are/have been OE suppliers to the VAG group. If you take the car to Skoda, chances are it will come out with one of them on, they just cost a bit more than independents. The best option would be to speak to the person who will be fitting it, see what they would be happy to fit and warranty their work on. I believe the INA part number you would need is 530 0592 10 / 530 0592 11 superseded to include the bolts from memory.

Has the coolant system been pressure or dye tested? If you are loosing coolant and there are no external leaks, then it is either being burned or the pressure cap has failed. I would get the system tested for combustion gases to rule out head gasket/cracked head etc, you can buy the kit for under £50 or get a garage to do it.

I agree on the sound proofing, the road noise is quite intrusive, the diesel sound although loud is bearable... I find it runs quieter on good quality fuel. I think the headlights are quite poor as standard, very little throw. My car also seems to have a rattle in the seatbelt adjuster, becomes annoying on longer trips with it being next to my ear. Other than that, it is a good all-rounder for the money.

You are going to be limited by the battery tray size if you are looking for a physically 'bigger' battery, although you can get more powerful units with the same footprint. I guess you want a stronger cranking amps rather than AH capacity? I think the original battery on those is an 027 reference so 243mm (L) x 175mm (W) x 190mm (H) in size, the CCA rating changes alot by manufacturer. Check the stick on your current battery, see what rating you have and then look at alternatives. Below is an example of 027 products sorted by CCA, you can quite easily gain 100amps-160amps by changing your brand/spec option. Brand Ah CCA Lion 60 480 Exide 62 540 Varta 60 540 Bosch S4 60 540 Drivetec 62 540 Yuasa YBX3 62 550 Bosch S5 63 610 Exide Premium 64 640 Yuasa YBX5 65 640

If you are referring to the level, then check the tank as per the post above, if it was too low it should trigger a warning on the instrument cluster. If you want to check the protection/mix ratio, then you can get simple testers from eBay, Amazon and Halfords that will give you a reasonable indication. Example: https://www.halfords.com/tools/hand-tools/all-hand-tools/antifreeze-tester---ethylene-glycol-686778.html

I presume you have a CAYC engine GSF sell the thermostat and housing, just under £25 with the 'SHOP60' discount code. https://www.gsfcarparts.com/176vg0530

I went for Monroe units, they come with all the bolts and the bearing ( I believe the Febi ones do also), whereas a lot of the cheaper ones come without.

I hear the Nightbreaker units are good, these will be my choice when it comes to changing, despite the short life span.

Mine has developed the same issue, my car is a 66 plate on 34k but is out of warranty with the garage. I would speak to the dealer as it is a known problem with the OE parts, they should be willing to help you. I have bought OEM top mounts, bearings and drop links, the design was originally an issue with the Febi units that they have now revised, so you should have no issues.

Service fill is listed as 4.3L by Comma. As above, stick 3.5L and go make a brew while it settles... check and top-up. One thing I would say, if it is the same engine as the Golf Mk6 (I think it is), the oil can take some time to drain down, so be patient and top it up slowly.

If that is a fitted price, then that would be about right at a dealership. The radiators 'retail' at approx. £200 from the dealers, plus costs of coolant and consumables say £50. So £200 in fitting would probably be around 2-2.5hours labour. The parts can be obtained from a motor factors for less than £100 if you fancy having a crack at it yourself, I would probably get under the car first to eye up the job.

These are fitted with a 'lifetime' fuel filter, as @Wino says it will integrated into the pump. If my memory serves me correct, there is a couple of revisions across the platform, so be careful if you are buying a replacement.

You can use VCDS or others use cheaper phone software/dongles. I have VCDS so followed this guide, you will need to do a soft reset of the head unit after coding (hold power button in). Enable Skoda Surround and Virtual Subwoofer (NOT for CANTON) Menu only appears on MIB2 cars 1 - Select Control Unit 5F 2 - Select Long Coding (Select 1 from top menu not 0) 3 - Select Byte 11 4 - Activate Bit 2 (Sound System Internal Individual) 5 - Access Media tab, then click Settings – Sound and tick the new boxes

I was quite disappointed in the audio quality when I bought my Octy, more so as the road noise is terrible and I have to turn it up 🙄 I looked at upgrades online, I couldn't find anything that would keep the OEM appearance (I didn't want to buy components and mount the tweeters on the dash) I coded in Skoda Surround & Virtual Subwoofer, this made the sound a little better, it is certainly worth looking at as it might give you the adjustment you need. In the end I opted to fit an old subwoofer that I had lying around to gain some depth, with some adjustments to the Bass/Mid/Treble, I have balanced out the tiny sound enough to live with.

As with the above posts, it depends on a lot of factors. The interval will be every 5 years or X Mileage, although, I have seen cars do in excess of 100k/10 years without a change. varaderoguy is spot on, check the belt for any signs of wear and listen out for any odd noises from the tensioners/bearings.. if something isn't right change it. If it fails, you will end up with a large bill for an engine rebuild, or buying a replacement engine is sometimes the cheaper option.

There is a difference between CBBB & CFGB, so make sure you get the right one. Have you thought about INA? The INA kit is around the £120-140 region (from GSF Car Parts) and includes the water pump as a complete package. The INA website shows that it comes with everything you have mentioned, so could be worth a punt, plus you can collect it if you buy from a motorfactors. T

It could potentially be the wrong parts have been installed, there is a few different options of clutch/flywheel for this, from memory there are 5 different clutch versions and a handful of flywheel options. Ask the garage what LUK reference were fitted, they should be able to check back and confirm.

The radiator wouldn't leak and then stop, if its damage it would have a continual leak. If you are experiencing coolant loss, your best bet is to get the car booked in and have the system pressure tested.

The pump is the same as the 1.2 TSI I believe, I found it to be more documented on the VW forums under the 1.2 TSI. I had to do this job a few weeks back on my partners car, the original part failed just after 14,000 miles! The coolant was running onto the gearbox, then down onto the undertray, which then run in either direction. It isn't a particularly hard job, nor is the part expensive so the bill shouldn't be too bad.

The colder weather will have an impact; warm up times, electrical systems, as will any changes to the fuel mixtures (Winter Fuels/E10 Swith Over). There is a big thread on E10 fuel economy on here, and plenty more information in the news. On the presumption your driving style is the same, there is no additional weight in the car.. check the basic things like tyre pressures, servicing is up to date etc.

It is best to just to test it as replace when it starts to degrade. In most cases cars with a traditional timing belt/water pump set up will be having it changed inline with the pump interval, so roughly five years. Most coolant products have a 5 year life span advertised these days, It is only the older blue stuff that is 2 years.

You should be able to check them against the advised PR code on the seller website, or they will advise you on the correct ones from your reg number. You can see in the image below there is a PR code, there should be a sticker in your boot with the codes on. I can get the information for you if you struggle to get it, just drop me a message with your reg number. In terms of brands, I personally always go for a well known brand such as Brembo or Delphi. Having said that, I have fitted plenty of the cheaper discs with premium pads and not had an issue.

Halfords do quite a few, both Ring and CTEK products as mentioned above. If you can a few weeks, the black friday sales will kick off and you could save yourself a few quid

I have a CTEK MXS 5.0 unit, good quality bit of kit and haven't had any issues with it, you can also buy CTEK extension cables if you need them for the connector side. Mine has been on a 'project car' for around 8 months and battery is completely fine, it does get unplugged for a few days now and then but is mostly connected. Another option is the solar trickle chargers, these are ok if you can get them positioned in the sun/light and buy a good size one. It also removes the issue of running cables from the car to the house etc.

My DPF tends to be one regen per tank, on a rare occasion it will do two. Most of my trips allow for the car to reach operating temp, so that will help reduce the frequency.