rum4mo

@Eeeekkk, I think that you are being spot on, in respect of them thinking customer says there is a problem, we have stripped it out and found the problem, parts on order by not due until the next or next day. I've never been too sure if service areas in dealerships ever understood that most people buy a car because they have a use for it, our cars are for more than allow garages to make a living - rant over! @nta16, I was not trying to snap your head off or bark or/and growl, I was just trying to put into words that the garage would be hopefully trying to minimise the customer's spend, so what was taken apart was staying apart as it did not affect the intended short term use of that car. Anyway, sorry to deviate but:- my daughter's May 2019 SEAT Leon Cupra was over due its second service, so I suggested that she got going and booked it in, she went online, started booking it into her SEAT dealership (AC) and the website offered her a special new way of doing things that they now offer, maybe Covid-19 started this off, anyway, you can click a box to say that you are willing to drop the car off at your nearest Arnold Clark garage, sounded okay to her so she did just that, they sent her a reminder late last night "your car is booked in for 07:30 tomorrow, please note that we do not open until 08:00" - she found that message a bit strange to work out, but on messaging me I suggested that maybe the service reception area opens earlier than the workshop. At this point I did not know what the arrangements were, so I asked, "is some scanky young chap going to drive your car across town to the SEATworkshop and back?" as it turned out the answer to that was "no" the car was being serviced at that either car supermarket or Nissan dealership! When asked if she wanted them to look into anything else or was it just a service " check CarPlay for functioning correctly or apply any S/W updates" their answer was, no we can't do that we are not a SEAT dealership! So what the F are these AC clowns up to yet again, taking in under warranty SEATs to a Nissan only workshop and probably can't even update the service records on the SEAT database - and of course no access to SEAT oil and pollen filters etc. I asked her why her man who is a petrolhead did not know what she was organising and suggest a better way to do it. So poor Cupra was due an inspection service and probably just got an oil vac out and refill, oh well such is life! I wonder if the inspection clock has been reset, I'll need to check it on VCDS soon. Not getting the pollen filter replaced is okay as VW Group prepaid service plans seem to only ever fit a basic pollen filter, cars with auto AC are meant to get a carbon coated pollen filter, maybe I'll hound her to buy a Mann Frecious Plus filter online somewhere.

Just an other comment that should be made here just in case anyone uses that TPS order form that was included in an earlier posting to this thread, the bolts being ordered are actually M8 X 32mm and so are not the correct part numbers for this repair, the bolts that hold down the fuel rail are M6 X 16mm Torx cap head 8.8 grade/strength and their part number is N10546403 - I'm only commenting on that so that someone does not end up ordering in the wrong size of bolts. There could be many reasons unknown to me why these parts were included in the TPS for what looks to be a complete listing for parts required to carry out this repair. The Supp.Parts are clips one for each injector which probably need replaced after taking things apart to replace the seals - the old ones are shown in the picture along with sets of injector seals. I think that the true cost of parts for this repair will be nearer £100 when you add in the 4-off bolts and the 4-off injector clips. Edit:- well it seems from the other thread that the parts cost was £71.81 2 years ago, so maybe closer to £80 right now.

Maybe the issue over replacing the rail is more done to the repair mechanic being able to assess whither of not it looked like the rail ended up getting deformed by one end of it be free to rise up under the pressure of the HP fuel supply. Erwin the official workshop manual used to quote 9NM for these M6 8.8 grade bolts, but maybe they have upped that now to 10NM.. I'm not sure if you are the 10th or 11th 1.2TSI engine owner to suffer this and logged it in this forum, there will be many unknown at least to me 1.4TSI engine owners also out there in the many Audi, SEAT Skoda and VW motoring forums that will have suffered like you, not very good at all. The last bolt can be reached I think, ie the one nearest the "free" end of the fuel rail. The "repair kits" seem to just be a set of seals and a clip for one injector, so a total of 4 are needed for these 4 cylinder engines - and quite expensive, I have yet to work out what the other part is that was listed, I'll need to dig deeper for that. My wife has an August 2015 Polo with that engine but it is obviously an earlier build than your one, actually "half" the serial number of your engine, so maybe the tooling was adequate at that time and became defective later on in the production run, I did buy 6 bolts, I used the extra 2 to see at what torque they failed and was quite happy that they seemed to be as strong in tension as the 8.8 grade spec intended, and then a poster in the Fabia thread updated it with his info about it being an assembly issue and not a bolt supply issue, so for now I'm sitting on doing anything on that car. The part that masks these bolts is mainly the inlet air air<>water heat exchanger and it looks like the water side remains sealed and there is a gasket that seals the opening in the manifold that it gets fitted into, so maybe I'll remove the heat exchanger and see if that improves access enough for me to check all the bolt torques. This continues to get hushed up, so far no mention of this in the main SEAT Ibiza motoring forum or the main VW Polo one, which is strange as all these car's 1.2TSI 16V engines were manufactured in a Skoda run factory.

First try to look at National DAB stations only as local DAB might be weak, well it is up my way! Next, and I'v said this before, one easy and cheap but slightly wasteful way to check if it is aerial system or radio, is to buy a cheap DAM screen mounted powered aerial, drape it over the passenger seat back, unplug the car's aerial lead and plug this one in not bothering to power it from 12V, if that improves things greatly then your problem is in the aerial system - ie not plugged in well enough originally or lead faulty or aerial amp faulty or links to the aerial faulty - does that installation use "diversity"?

I don't think that there is any issues with the garage leaving panels and the passenger airbag disconnected, that car will have been "loaned back" to its owner as it was required back and passed back with the knowledge that there would not be a passenger in the front probably. Smell of petrol - never a good thing unless you are using it to clean up parts! Due to this investigative work on the blower, there should have been no possibility of them opening up any part of the fuel system as that is where any smell of petrol must be coming from. Try opening the bonnet to see if there is a strong or even any smell of petrol there - there should not be, every part of the fuel systems nowadays is sealed to the atmosphere including the tank venting system, any spillage left over from when the fuel rail leak was sorted out should have gone by now. As usual, there could be other reasons for that petrol smell, especially in warmer weather, like someone in that garage was working on a fuel system and so petrol vapour ended up in your car for a short time. I have said that I've been aware of petrol smells while out and about in this hotter weather - it reminded me of being on holiday abroad, but I'm sure that most of the time it has nothing to do with our own cars.

There does seem to be an increasing incidence in the failure of what used to be assumed to be robust items that were fit to last at least 10 years, maybe it is called progress. As said already, without having actually replaced a cabin fan assembly, I'd think that it is very doable for a DIYer who has less time and associated cosmetic damage constraints than a dealership which will be working to a prepared route map and fixed labour time element, plus us DIYers don't have H&S to consider. Stiff neck muscles and extremely sore hands are part and parcel of some DIYer car activities - unfortunately.

You missed out canal trouble!

Sorry, I seem to have conveniently avoided reading/taking in the fact that you already knew about these threaded studs, after writing that post I went searching for a cheapish source and did not find any, though I suppose it depends on what value I put on them. I like the idea of only buying aluminium alloys ones like VW Group supply into Toureg etc as they will be kinder on the alloy wheels, but mainly it seems they are all SS and yes with fancy writing on them to help justify the price. Even VW Group type scrappies seem to be having a laugh when selling the VW Group supplied ones from broken up vehicles. I might need to check the price at my localish VW dealership and if okay order another one in and reduce its length by "an inch", one of the plastic ones would do as a second one, but I seem to remember that the price for cheap plastic "real thing" is near enough the same as the aluminium alloy "real thing". Wrong, 893012223 £3.65 bought from Audi dealership back in August 2019 - that is the standard shorter plastic hollow dowel/wheel stabiliser or as VW Group call them "tommy bar"!

No chance of my wife checking any ford for rocks unfortunately, besides she is just short of 5 feet so might disappear - then who would tend to my many needs?? Anyway, lifting wheels or working on cars that have bolts instead of studs - my Audi S4 with its summer 19" wheels are not much fun to get onto the hub, even worse to stack 5 or maybe 6 wheels high when swopping summer<>winter wheels over, but having 2 wheel stacks in the garage gives me an extra 2 high flat storage areas! My old Passat, and my S4, both came with a plastic threaded dowel that is known as a wheel positioner I think - a very good idea, so good in my mind that I bought one for my wife's 2002 Polo and that is now in the spare wheel kit of her 2015 Polo, I also bought a longer aluminium version that seems to be part of the Toureg or what ever the VW SUV was called and probably same for the Audi Q7 - all these cars have the same bolt thread size. What would be even better to have, as someone has suggested or bought, is using 2 metal threaded dowels of different lengths so you can get the wheel over the first, longer one, then move it about until it is over the second one - I have yet to make up or buy a second one. Various places sell these threaded dowels for use that use for me it was just that the VW Toureg alloy one was probably cheaper to buy along with a plastic one from my local VW dealer, the thread size is M14 X 1.5mm if you are looking to buy a threaded dowel to stabilise the wheels when refitting them. Edit:- they get called "wheel hangers" on ebay by the way.

Probably strip and clean for the front ones, and chip off any built up corrosion curd stuff. Ford fixed by ford, excellent, my wort experience of driving through fords with a Ford was when my nice new Ford alloys got chipped by a submerged rock/big stone, very annoying, I still remember when we ever drive through that ford - not in my car though, only ever do that in wife's Polo!

I'm still a bit confused by you thinking the chiller was still able to run, maybe it is the air distribution flap motor that is not allowing air through. Maybe with the engine and ignition turned off, remove the cover and the pollen filter, and try to get your fingers up that slot to see if you can reach the fan motor and see if it can be turned easily, if so, then, with hands out of the way, switch on the ignition and see if the fan sounds like it is running.

One thing that could work wonders here, although I would not worry about that "scuffing" noise is, these short/smallish cars do not have a handbrake lever return spring mounted on the rear calliper, longer/bigger cars usually do have, I think that the logic with these cars is that the handbrake cable is short enough and low friction by design, so that the usual handbrake lever return spring is not really required as the calliper's internal return spring is strong enough to pull the handbrake lever fully back when the handbrake is released. Way back in maybe 2004ish, it was quite common for people owning mainly Fabias, to add an eternal spring to the rear calliper - there is probably still points on the handbrake lever and the calliper body that a spring can be fitted to - as in designed for that purpose, I bought and fitted springs to my wife's 2002 VW Polo and that worked very well. When she bought a new VW Polo in August 2015, again, I ordered in a pair of handbrake lever return springs, but with these later cars the internal calliper handbrake lever return spring seems to be strong enough to do that job - at least when the cars are new. Anyway I fitted these 2 springs just to avoid that scuffing issuing ever happening, and so far at 34.5K miles and almost 6 years it still works okay, but I remove the calliper from the carrier and clean everything up every year now, initially only every other year. If you are interested to buying external return springs, the springs that work best, in my mind/experience and I've tried the 2 available version, are :- LH Handbrake return spring 7M0 615 295 (from 1998 Sharan) – 1off RH Handbrake return spring 7M0 615 296 (from 1998 Sharan) – 1off Edit:- the other version of springs are from a VW Vento or Jetta - but I found that they were slightly too long/light so only added a slight amount of extra returning effort. Another Edit:- bear in mind that 1998 Sharan is a VW, SEAT also made their version so VW or SEAT dealership can order in these springs, Ford Galaxy also used them it seems.

Owner's manuals are boring or badly written normally, I think that after finding that I re-read that car's owner's manual and it was in it, same for 2002 VW Polo and my car. For some reason 2015 VW Polo have an exposed driver's door lock barrel, as does my 2011 Audi S4 - okay the S4 is old enough for that change not to have been included on it, but I bought a new cover - N/S and O/S covers front and rear are all the item, just that the driver's one is different as it from factory has the hole for the key and looks like something is missing, so over two years on I still have to cut a slot in that new cap and spray it in car's body colour. Did same for 2015 VW Polo and that looks to have been a waste of money because 2015 VW Polo have a very low profile handle, so no option to cover that lock barrel. My younger daughter's boyfriend's father has just bought a VW ID3 - that car has an exposed driver's key barrel, I don't quite get that, I thought covering them up but having a slot to remove them was progress!

quote:- batteries are very heavy to carry around best to use both your hands rather than the one plastic handle it'll probably come with. I agree, but, when I bought a new 95AHr Bosch from Costco, the clown in the tyre bay just grabbed one with one hand and swung it up onto the pay desk, then swung it again with one hand and one handle into my trolley - what an ar*e! Edit:- as for finding out how to secure a car that you have removed the battery from, yes everyone should get to know about that - I only blundered across it in the interwebnet thing, and put it to use a few months later when I removed the battery form my daughter's 2009 Ibiza I was babysitting.

As far as I know, I have not tried it, but logic tells me it should be correct, if the cabin fan is not running, the AC ie the chiller can not run, the logic behind that is, if the chiller runs gas through the evaporator and there is no air flowing across the evaporator then its temperature will drop quickly and it will freeze any moisture that is in the air plenum and so it will get choked to air passing across it. In normal operation, there is a possibility that the evaporator could end up up freezing, but there is a temperature probe close to its surface to protect it from doing that, but that needs an air flow to stop it freezing.

You should be able to fully lock up any car that has remote or even only central locking when no battery is fitted. At least on Audis, VWs and SEATs, every side door without a key locking barrel, has a small rubber bung on the "rear" face of the door frame, not small rubber bung probably had a padlock outline on it and maybe a rectangular indent. The plan for when there is no battery power on the car is:- open each side door, remove that bung, fit the end of the ignition key into the manual locking part that gets exposed when you remove the bung, then give it a 1/4 or 1/2 turn one way - it will only go one way, do this gently as very little force is needed, refit the bung and close that door - it should now be locked and can be reopened from the inside in the usual way as dead locking has not been used. Repeat that for the other 2 doors if it a 5 door, then use the key to lock the driver's door. The rear hatch probably like other cars of this age, can not be opened from the outside so that end is secure and if you need to open it when the battery is out, there is usually a slot on the hatch's inner trim panel to slide a key in and release that opening. Edit:- Stop/Start in itself will not cause any issues when trying to revive that battery, but if you feel the need to buy another battery make sure it is an EFB or AGM version to keep things going as intended.

When some of us, it sounds like, were out buying our first proper car tools, it seemed that all the quality brands only sold bi-hex sockets, unless I'm mistaken, now everyone sells hex sockets as they might be slightly less convenient when in poor access areas, but they trade that in for better grip on fasteners and the later designs even more than just plain hex.

@nta16, hey come on, give yourself a pat on the back, these links do do what you expected!

Metric tools only, at Classic Motor Show, bother, is that called progress? I handed over all my and my father's AF and Whitworth/BSW spanners to my mate when it looked like he was going all GB for his classics, unfortunately that only lasted one car, an A40,then he stuck with SAAB so these tools are collecting rust now. I still have my father's Bedford Tools Imperial socket set though, the case for that set was big enough to accept a full set of Britool metric sockets, with the odd Draper Expert thrown in. Toolstation sell or used to sell Facom Expert very cheaply, I could not work out if this was just Facom getting into a cheaper section of the market, I bought a couple of 17mm Hex sockets for use with telescopic wheel wrenches in the boots of our cars, they seem well enough made, but very cheap! My father also had a Crescent brand small adjustable spanner - but that seems to have disappeared over time! Blue Spot, yes I heard about them, I bought a set of basic Draper spanners years ago, really just to have in the boot, they, I think, were made in India - the complete set consisted of one of each "size" of spanner, just that actual sizes had been swopped on a couple, so one size had big wall thickness and one had hardly any wall thickness! I think that I took them to work and allowed them to be nicked, serves some thieving b****d right!

That gauge/charging adaptor gets fitted to the low pressure side of the system, so you charging the system with the AC demanding max cooling aren't you? If so then you have a leak in the system. If the AC system has lost a lot of gas, you will need to demand cooling, which the system will not provide as the compressor will be left on minimum displacement, as you load in gas from your charging bottle, the system should get enables and start chilling the air - but if it is still reasonably leak proofed, a single small bottle of goodness knows what, will not return it to full capacity or maybe not even getting it running as a chiller as the pressure might still be too low due to lack of charge.

It should do, if not it will catch up soon, the app gets updated regularly as cars change etc and updates get sent out automatically to your copy of the app.

Bacho spanner made in Spain! What is the world coming to, I always assumed that all Bacho stuff was made in Sweden, talking about Bacho adjustables, I bought one of their chopped down or thin jaw versions, as a treat to myself - for holding onto the slim air vent body of the valve on our heated towel rails, they work a treat for that job, no more blinking complete valve unscrewing when I open the small vent screw - I had been looking for a reason to buy one of them as soon as I noticed them in Screwfix, we had lots of specially modified spanners at work, but normally they were just bog standard spanners, sockets etc that had been machined to suit, I bet that cost a lot more than buying the right tools!

It might just be a "time thing", ie if you have only just bought the car, Skoda UK might not have added that fact to the/their database, a friend bought a used VW T-Roc and it was about 14 days before he could create an account and add that VIN to his my Volkswagen account.

@nta16, I'm sorry if I hit a "weak" spot (ha ha!). It was always NOS Eldor coils that I aimed for on ebay for spares for my wife's previous 2002 Polo, after I had to use the first spare, I felt that the clock was almost running out for me being without the next spare spare, so gave up waiting for ebay to serve up the next NOS Eldor and grabbed a "used but still okay Beru coil that has been kicking about my toolbox for a while", well month later it was required, a month later ebay served up my next NOS Eldor, a week later wife said "car is running a bit rough" - I plugged in my diagnostic tool for laziness/efficiency and it pointed to the recently fitted Beru - that as far as I was concerned confirmed my thoughts about Beru coils that were manufactured in some "becoming modernised" Eastern European country! It always seemed to be the "move to the East" that plagued all these parts. NGK spark plug for the 1,2TSI 16V engine:- at the age of your car the factory fit would have been VW AG part number 04E 905 601 with no NGK reference number on them, just VW AG NGK on the insulator. the replacements I bought from a UK based sparkplug supplier as NGK were in fact NGK plugs packed in VW Group boxes with VW Group part number 04E 905 601 B on the box and on the plug body, the box also had the corresponding NGK part number/model printed below the VW Group part number and that is NGK PZKER7B8EGS. 22NM torque 16mm spark plug socket. Laser Tools sell a conveniently sized one, 245mm long 3/8" sqr drive with a magnet in it to hold the plug secure Laser Tools 3682. Edit:- one thing about that Laser Tools spark plug long socket is, many places list it as being 14mm, but the Laser Tools item with the part number 3682 is 16mm, I can't explain why still after many years, some places including Halfords which seem to be the cheapest, are describing it as being a 14mm socket! Get them to open the packaging up and check it with their dial callipers before paying for it! Another Edit:- Lucas, I think that the brothers that own ECP bought over that trading name and rent it out to anyone needing to apply some credibility to their cheap nasty Eastern way sourced rubbish.

@nta16I agree about the usefulness of being able to view parts listings, all good stuff, well after you have had reason to search for many parts in all areas and so trained yourself into how the catalogue was designed. My best extra feature I ended up with when buying my next laptop was touch screen, very handy when searching through parts listings! I used to buy the odd Ekta disc to keep me going, but now that these "nice" Russians seem to offer free access to some hooky genuine up to date VW Group catalogues, I've stopping buying these Ekta discs, goodness knows what nasties they are sending down the line though as is said, especially in computing, if it is free then you are the product, gulp! Edit:- probably not that you will end up using this, but when these engines were built, the factory fitted version "a" of these plugs, when I replaced my wife's 2015 Polo's plugs, the plugs I got were version "b" - I can look up if you are interested, and let you know if it was the VAG parts code that had changed or the NGK model number that had changed, but in my head, I think that one changing was reflected in the other - so if the current plugs have an "a" within their NGK model number they were probably not replaced and if they has a "b" in the NGK model number they have been. The coils, VW Group went through a very bad patch coil reliability wise but that was back in maybe 2004 > 2008,this I think was mainly due to VW's suppliers being encouraged maybe to include more local content and the desire to reduce costs to the factories, this meant coil manufacturers ended up moving East wards which was not good initially, my wife's 2002 old Polo had proper old European Eldor coils made in a proper old European country like Germany and only had 2 coils fail in its 13 years from new with us, her 2015 Polo has Eldor coils made in Turkey, which concerns me a bit as Turkey is well known for state sponsored "copy" factories, so there could be more than one "Eldor" factory although that should only affect anyone buying via ebay etc, the move East wards lead to some bad habits and high voltage insulation was a casualty - and so many VW Group cars had early coil failures between 2004 and 2008, in fact most people that bought new Audis with the 1.8T engine, spent a lot of their early days of ownership driving around in I think Sourers(sp?) things got that bad. Audi dealerships in Europe tended to grab a loan of older stock " so okay" coils from Skoda dealership car stocks, sad but true. I have always considered Beru to either have similar issues or were unreliable even when manufactured within "old" Europe, others might know different. That was just background chatter concerning VW Group coils, which from my personal experience, is in the past as things have been sorted out or at least improved.