rum4mo

Panasonic seems to be the battery brand of choice for VW Group from factory, so I've tended to replace with same always bought online from hopefully proper sources. Duracell is my battery of choice for AA and AAA and maybe some small coil cells, but so far never for car keyfobs. Edit:- okay I messed up once for my wife's 2015 VW Polo when I got it into my head that I needed Sony batteries, that worked okay though the seller said in future there would not be any Sony coin cell batteries of this size due to Sony pulling out of that market.

Who/where is your supplier of choice for seals kits out of interest as I might replace the seals on my wife's 2015 Polo's rear callipers if they end up being sticky when I replace the pads next year?

Gulp, that sounds like being a bit expensive, though finding a garage person to sniff around for cracked joints might have cost just as much!

What you might want to try is, demand Hi, wait maybe 10 seconds, demand Lo, wait maybe 10 seconds - then repeat that at least 10 times. What can happen is, because these flap motors are not being exercised frequently over their complete range of movement, is that the positional feedback potentiometer's wiper and/or resistive track gets dirty and then its game over as the controller has lost control. Doing what I've suggested can in that situation, force the wiper/track to clean up a bit and return the flap motor to being fully operational, for a hour/day/week/month/year. I've only had that happen on my previous VW Passat - and that one failed Hi - which is okay in colder weather, in warmer weather opening the windows slightly worked a bit but annoying on long fast journeys - crunch time came on a long fast journey in very hot weather, stopping every 200miles was the only way to survive, and that forced me to man up and fit the new flap motor that had been living in the boot for too long. I find that VW Group will not accept any electrical part correctly supplied as a warehouse etc order back unused nowadays, which I can understand. Edit:- I'm a bit confused as to why the parts department need a fault code before they order, unless they are trying to protect your mechanic, I just order all my parts by their part numbers and they happily supply me, all good money for them.

There used to be a fad for swopping these screws for SS ones, which ebay always seemed to be selling, I did that to our previous 2 cars - okay discs back and front, but same issue - also a spot of copper ease etc stops this happening - after getting the screws out. If it bothers you a lot in the future and you have left that hub without a drum retaining screw, just buy a threaded "wheel locating dowel" - VW at least sell one, screwing that in will keep the drum/hub wheel holes lined up until you have a bolt or two in. My old 2000 VW Passat 4Motion came from factory with no front disc locating screws (no holes in discs or hub), but it did come with a plastic "wheel locating threaded dowel pin" - and, if you(I) kept everything nice and clean, putting a front wheel back on was a complete bummer of a job - unless I fitted that threaded dowel pin.

Have you checked up online to see how you "fit and set" both the earlier version and the latest version - if you had/have done that you might have got away with fitting an aftermarket version, and also be ready to know how to fit the new VW Group latest version. I can't remember the exact procedures now, but how you fit them changes with the types - I've only ever had to replace 2 on one car, both an older type and then the newer type. Edit:- I'm sure that there is a guide covering "older" and "newer" brake pedal switch "fitting and setting" in this forum, at least there used to be. Most of the threads that go cold seem to be for the later models of Fabia where the switch has moved into the brake master cylinder and is a Hall Effect device - and I suspect most of the present failings for them are trapped/crushed wires.

Just proves that atmospheric pressure really is round about 14.5psi. Sorry I've checked what the expected boost range is.

I'm sure that I bought a Draper deep impact socket - and that worked, though I've listed that as being a Laser Tools 0954 - can only guess that I have checked the OD of the Laser Tools offering and found it to be exactly the same as the Draper one I bought as Laser Tools tend to buy in many tools from other sources. Bottom line, I knew that I would, some time, need to get these nuts off, so ended up at a tool stall at a market, and bought that Draper branded one - and it worked okay, on 2 cars over time.

Maybe get the VCDS person you contact to change the service strategy from variable to fixed then in the coming years you will be able to reset as said above without involving anyone else? I'm not sure if Carista now includes the ability to change from fixed to variable yet, you could check that out on their website. I've got one car that I've never bothered to change to fixed servicing, and that age/platform of VW Group car can not be easily reset using VCDS but that I think was due to a change that VCDS needed to make to benefit newer and other platforms - though Carista sorts that out easily, or I could if I changed that car to fixed servicing!

Nissen are okay suppliers of coolant radiators and AC condensers and evaporators it seems. Looks like your one is leaking where the end parts get clamped onto the centre core, Ford Europe were early adopters of using that "new" design back in 1980's most new cars required a new coolant radiator and a new heater matrix within the first year of warranty, but these later ones will not fail so frequently I'd think - very annoying when the heater matrix leaks in your almost new car, been there done that - twice with the same car, but no failures since then(1982)!

I’d say it’s just the fragile gearboxes that end up in these cars. My wife’s 2015 Polo 1.2TSI started doing that after the dealership sorted out a gearbox mounting issue, ie perhaps they “thrashed” it to confirm my reported issue, or did similar after replacing the mounting.

When said I checked it and it showed slight signs of blackening, I was using that to confirm that the bulb had not been replaced with a new one, its light output was not being impaired in much if any way, the claim being made by the MOT place, was that the light had failed and the bulb had been replaced. At certain times of year it is impossible to submit a car that is clean, especially the rear end of a hatch back, and this was one of these times, ie winter.

MIL I believe stands for Malfunction Indicator Lamp/Light. I've had an issue with a garage once concerning a failed number plate bulb, I had handed the car in slightly dirty and there was no evidence of fingers/hands/tools being anywhere near the number plate fitting, plus later when I got home, I could see that the bulb was not new as it had that slightly blackish appearance that comes with age+use. That left a slightly sour taste in my mouth and I never went back to that place, okay the fitting of the bulb was "free" but the bulb cost quite a bit for a basic wedge style bulb, really no need for that to be happening, just greed from someone.

That is the way to do it, keeps the money rolling in. A few years after getting VCDS, a friend at work mentioned that his wife's maybe 2004 VW Golf had throwed out a warning via the MIL, I had heard about a failed brake light bulb being able to do that, so he checked the brake lights, replaced a bulb and then the next day or so I reset the MIL. VW Group workshops loved that, charge for a diagnostic check and replace a bulb, the bread and butter of VW Group workshops for a while, I don't think that we ever had a brake light failure on my wife's 2002 VW Polo or my 2000 VW Passat, I think at "half life" with us, I checked all the bulbs and replaced any that had started to look blackish - that Polo had what was normal, a faulty brake pedal switch, twice in 13 years, that switched quite a few lights on the dashboard and tended to or should have given any driving a horrible feeling as when that happened the brake lights simply did not ever get switched on, so driving smoothly until the end of that journey was a smart move, and stay lucky so that no emergency braking was needed or you could end up getting rear ended.

I'm not sure, but the adaptable charging profile would start changing its adaption slowly and so probably learn what is best for any different battery, especially over the time period given.

I had started to become creative with differing sizes of screwdriver blades, but common sense prevailed before annoyance caused any damage, so probably I ended up flexing/squeezing/pressing it without being aware of doing so.

Without try to replicate this, 15 minutes seems quite a long time for the auto stop/start to leave the engine off, I would have thought that the cabin temperature demand or the battery voltage state would have switched it back on before 15 minutes, mind you, if I considered that the traffic was not moving for 15 minutes, I would have switched the engine off probably within 5 minutes.

I think that I got enough out of your previous posting on this to get it off, I've just not tried yet.

But, surely that it only does that for the time that the engine has been auto Stopped - that is intentional and is okay for most people.

I'd be very surprised if auto stop/start does not start working if you plug that lead back in, it will never work for as long as it is unplugged in my experience.

I'll try to remember to give that a go soon!

It does remain "retained" so it will not normally get separated from that connector, my failure was due to not initially pulling it back far enough, maybe I felt it meeting with some resistance so took that to mean that I had disengaged it correctly. I did not have that issue any other time years earlier when I was experimenting with running with it fitted/ not fitted.

I was meaning that the brand "WD40" do sell a silicon grease spray, like any grease packed into a spray can, when mixed up well, and applied, the propellant gasses off. The smart move is always to cover the pedal area with an old towel etc before spraying directly into the pivot bush area, these bushes are nylon so silicon grease is perfect for using on them is an annoying squeak has started, typically they should/could dry unlub'd but in the real world, the bush moulding will not have been perfect and same for the pivot, so scuffing of surfaces begins and can squeaking. The other issue, with an older car, can be that the "action" or "weight" of the clutch operation has increased with age, and that is forcing accelerated wear on the clutch pedal bush - plan A must be to spray grease on it though, and so silicon or "super" grease, ie silicon+PTFE.

VW Group tend to apply some silicon grease to the pedal nylon pivot bush, and that would be what I'd use - probably there is WD40 options for that.

That grey/white locking tang really needs to get pulled out fully, I recently discovered that after pulling it back(but not far enough) then failing to get the plug to come out, luckily, only and only luckily, I stopped using too much force and had another attempt at moving that tang further back - before breaking something! Along with advancing years, for me anyway, comes less patience!