rum4mo

The function of changing the serial number when changing a battery is to let the battery management system know that a new battery has been fitted to that car, so it will revert to the base charging parameters and so away from the adapted with time parameters. The 3 letter vendor code, I don't think will do much in that I'd doubt if the battery management system will have different parameter maps/settings for different battery vendors. Have you given it a couple of days or a few journeys to let the car charge that battery up to the required level, or checked the battery rest voltage? Edit:- obviously with the date difference between your postings, you will have had enough time to charge that new battery up, just one thing, did you replace "like" for "like" capacity wise, or even higher? Edit (again):- not trying to be insulting, but is the lead connected into the "lump" on the -VE battery post?

The very slightly used set of Michelin Alpins 205/55 X 16 that I purchased via ebay for my old 2000 VW Passat 4Motion, only ended up on ebay because that had been bought to fit to either an Audi A3 or a VW Golf - and they rubbed somewhere, so someone's loss was my gain as the weather that winter had for the first time since buying that car, had turned extremely nasty or at least different conditions or road surfaces than normal, which was enough to force me to try to buy a set of Alpins after Costco had sold their last and same for Michelin warehouse in UK!

If using the manufacturer's fixed distance and time service strategy then they are always accurate according to the manufacturer's recommendations. Back in the day when I did all that recording of info, there was not a "SRI" function within VCDS, but now for some cars, and only some cars in the VW Group fleet, there is a "SRI" button that clears all the relevant stored fields data back to zero - and now VCDS asks if "you" want to log all that data - and I now just ignore it!

The service warning in modern cars is very tame in my experience, my old 2000 VW Passat 4Motion was not, it used to drive me mad as I had it set for 12 months, I used to have this fixation to log all service stats so was never willing to just reset it quickly!

I think that Hill Hold or what ever it is called is brilliant when compared with "short time hold" . I've yet to drive a DSG car, my older daughter seems to have kept me on her insurance for her 2019 Leon Cupra so some time I'll try it out, coming from manual gearboxes I'll be very concerned about making sure that I was doing the right by the DSG as regards wear and tear, for instance when stationary at lights etc.

Yes, especially in your case where you are still involving the dealership with solving this issue, doing it any other way would probably annoy them and maybe end your current episode with them, either from them or you.

That version would not work up here today, far too much rain around!

Yes any flap motor change must be followed by what is called "basic settings" - the AC controller drives each motor to both mechanical end stops and stores the positional feedback voltages for normal use limits.

I agree with @roottoot, well especially concerning the "over" talk that SEAT do when giving a very good set of reasons why you should always get them to service your SEAT, they read and clear the stored faults, check for any outstanding S/W updates at every service visit. This, in my experience/mind translates into, if you have reported any faults and if the engine fault indicator light is on, them will do something, also if you report an issue that matches up with a known S/W update, they will apply that update - or hopefully all safety associated S/W updates - otherwise as said, once round the block if convenient or into service bay, minimum service activity, reverse back up - the trip round the block will only be necessary if finding a space to park it is proving tricky! My wife's August 2015 VW Polo was handed over with the wrong EVAP pipe fitted to it, so either Skoda engine plant messed up or if that part is only fitted at the car plant, then VW SA messed up, that version of pipe was changed in initial build 6 months earlier than even the engine build date.

When that cable is disconnected a scan will report "battery monitor disconnected" - I've noticed that, but I can't say if that gets logged as a fault and stores it as a fault especially if you reconnect it, I'll try to remember to check that today when I check something else for rosstech.

Well now that I've been mentioned, my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 100PS, has only ever had its battery dongle lead removed once, and that was by a forgetful VW tech when replacing the gearbox upper mounting rubber. Edit:- how did I work out that that lead might be disconnected, well since it had come back from that warranty visit, auto Stop/Start had been inhibited, so it was easy to put 1 + 1 and get straight to the cause/reason why! Currently my wife's Polo has been exhibiting an annoying "thing" wrt to charging! Out of curiosity maybe, I bought a plug in DVM that has a connector that allows it to get plugged directly into the "ciggy lighter" socket, prior to that, probably when the car was new, I did connect up a DMM and so that I could see what was happening when wrt voltage at that point - ie lowish voltage of 12.5>12.7V while under power and 13.5>13.7V when on the overrun. For the last 18 months or so, until 2.5 weeks ago, that was still the case, a quick glance down at that DVM every few minutes to make sure all was still okay. Then, one day about 2.5 weeks ago it changed, 14.7>14.9V constantly, when cold under power, when hot under power and on the overrun at cold or hot, which meant that the battery was ending the day proper stuffed full of charge - I was not too happy about that. I checked the battery stats as well as checking for logged faults - no faults logged, the battery stats claimed all was well and the voltage was what was required, I stuck with this for a few days, trying to work out what to do next, new or used alternator to fit until I had got the original one checked over, a problem with the battery management part of the CAN Gateway controller, an out of spec battery monitor unit, or a dying battery. The battery stats proved that the car's system thought that the battery had decayed in useful capacity from 59Ah to 34Ah although I could not find where the "energy throughput" statement was - that I believe is where the battery usage gets counted and when it reaches a certain value relative to one of the theoretical battery design specs, it is considered ready for the dump. Edit:- I even resorted to charging the battery overnight to see what effect that might have on this constant high charging voltage - no change! As one last idea, I changed the battery serial number by one unit, then used the car the next day, for the first 20 minutes it remained as before, then it changed to doing things the way I had witnessed for its almost entire life with us. So after maybe 200 miles and maybe 6 outings including a 24 miles each way journey, it is back to being almost as before, at first the battery was being run well down before charging happened on the overrun, but now it has crept back up to roughly 13,2V under power and roughly 14.7V on the overrun, so not exactly back to where I had previously expected it to be. I did check that auto Stop/Start did operate when this first started happening just in case the battery was now not fit to be kept up to that charge level - but it always shut down at lights etc. My next step, well, early on, probably driven by tales of early life failure of EFB batteries, I ordered in the next size up battery tray and jacket - and now I've bought the next size up Bosch AGM battery, talking online to someone that fixes these cars, he said that just too many battery monitor units have been failing, so just in case that this is an out of spec battery monitor issue that will attempt to kill my new battery, I've scatter cashed this and bought in a new battery monitor unit. My, baseless thoughts on this are, that one possibility is, these battery monitors can misbehave and the owner nothing about it until the battery dies - I'm sure that less than 1% of people are bothering to keep an eye on the voltage or the charging behaviour. I was told that for instance, VW Caddy battery monitors are on back order currently and they end up on back order frequently, now maybe only VW Caddy battery monitors are not "too good" - I don't know, the battery monitor on that 2015 VW Polo is made by Lear Corporation in Spain, and maybe "annoyingly" for me, when I got one ordered in, they were in stock at the warehouse and the new one's Lear manufacture date was 07/08/2020 and the VW Group stocking date was 14/07/2021 - so maybe not demand wise in the same league as the VW Caddy version, who knows, as the cost of the battery monitor is roughly 1/3 of the AGM battery I bought, I have considered, in the absence of any better or firm ideas or worked out facts, either I hand it in and it seems that from an outsiders view of this NFF and pay for that report, or I use that money spend on parts! Sorry that this does probably not help out the OP - or does it give some insight maybe, maybe buy one of these cheap (£5) plug in DVMs - when I mentioned this issue while trying to help someone on another forum, the first reply to my posting suggested that my cheap DVM was the issue, that would have been just too good to be true, but I had checked that out in the first place.

My wife has a August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS and its present mileage is just over 36,000 miles, maybe I've said in the past that I have plucked 7.5+years out of the air as the point in time that I'll be getting a proper VW Group Indie to change all the necessary bits in that area. I'm following the VW and probably all the other VW Group's marques recommendations on this, which is to check the cam belt visually along its entire length at every annual service after maybe year 6 - though I've been checking that area in general since it was new annually!

@CazzaBrank, I hope that you are going to report this issue/failure via the link supplied above if you are in UK or your country's government department if located in another country. Be sure to let us know the outcome after you formally report this please.

As I had only ever seen and touched the version that has the captive washer, its material always seemed as hard as ----- and the version with the softish rolled steel washer would end up softer against the sump pan, but, both cars I have currently, have steel sump bases and have these maybe softer sealing washers, my previous two cars that used the bolt cw washer, had soft alloy sumps and these hard flat solid washers. All good stuff, what tended to annoy me while I was using these drain plug with captive washer, and buying from VW Group outlets, was the need to dress the threads of the plugs to keep my alloy sumps happy, it looked like tons/tonnes of these plugs were getting dumped together and handled roughly at some stage in their life!

I have got round to thinking, that if or when using these sanitiser "bombs" it makes more sense to first remove the old filter, and fit the closure cover, then use the sanitiser and only then fit the new filter. My logic being, a lot of the sanitiser fluid, held in suspension in the cabin air, will get stripped out of the air being re-circulated round the heater/cooler air box.

There does seem to have been some at least of the 1.2TSI 16V engines, maybe only the later ones, were sent out of the engine plant with the older version of "bolt+washer" combo instead of the bolt and a separate rolled steel crush washer, my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 16V certainly came new with the sump bolt and separate washer version. I always thought the change to separate crush washer would have been with the plan to avoid millions of drain plugs getting dumped into landfill, from what I remember, the separate crush washer costs slightly more than than the "bolt+washer" combo when buying from VW Group parts departments.

My wife tends to buy a carpet "runner" just cheaper more robust stuff than the fitted carpets, to protect "hard wear" points, recently when she has asked me to put old ones in the bin, I've put them in the garage, perfect for laying on in the garage or the stony driveway - I'd understand why it has taken me many many years to think about using that sort of thing!

You missed out "getting the crap falling out into my eyes", even as a bonus finding a small stone or 2 digging into your back - horrible! Laser Tools market a sort of stand/platform that you place one end over the car's sill and the other end is supported by a folding leg - to make this sort of job easier, I've never bought one, they probably cost quite a bit, but where is the fun if all the car jobs are easy?

It must be progress, I'm sure that it has been turned thro 90 degrees as well, short memory so forgotten, same sliding clips though but now no plastic frame to transfer across to the new filter.

I know it is not relevant in this case, but it is the chiller section that causes the build up of mould/bacteria as the collected moisture "ages" in that damp space - all the rest is okay though.

Or even further across towards the centre line in newer cars, even easier to check/clean/change.

The AC compressor is driven at all times, but when not required or in your case when its chilling requests have been disabled, the compressor is still feed through a very low volume of compressed fridge gas through the system which always includes the evaporator coil in the cabin heater assembly, so if too much fridge gas was being sent through that coil, you could feel its effect via the cabin fan being run. Can the demand for some more heat not counter this effect, I think that a few people in the past have commented on this issue but I can't remember if anyone ever got it resolved or even accepted as being a problem. Edit:- to let you understand this a bit better, these AC compressors are variable displacement types, so the chilling demand is increased by increasing the effective pumping volume of the compressor, this improves efficiency while the low level/volume of gas being circulated stops any of the system's plastic surfaces drying out and increase gas leaks if not in use much. All previous versions of Fabia will also have had a variable displacement AC compressor, so no change there wrt your previous Fabias.

I fitted a rear hatch pull down handle to my wife's 2015 Polo, as she is only 5 foot tale, I bought the Skoda handle, fixing screw and nutsert, as the screw is maybe M6 or M5 and the nutsert is steel, I failed to set the nutsert in the hole I drilled - I would have been using a hi strength screw to set it but failed miserably, so used another method to provide that handle fixing screw with a "nut" - that bit not relevant here, but the effort needed to set these steel nutserts is very high which is not surprising. Years ago I fell into a similar when refitting the spare wheel captive nut plate to a 1991 Fiesta, instead of buying in the genuine Ford part which would have been a plastic sleeved/sealed alloy large pop rivet, I grabbed one from work, unfortunately it made of stronger material and that trashed my Halfords pop rivet tool, I solved that by buying a heavy duty Stanley branded tool - it took some serious effort to set that pop rivet, I've never used any "acquired" green coated serious pop rivets again!

@nta16, yes that was one of the suggestions that I passed on along with sending SEAT UK a tracked letter with a title like "Letter before action", without claiming any ownership of either suggestions.

Depends on the engine series, the 1.2TSI 16V both have a folded steel crush washer seal on the sump plug, I tend to buy them in in "4" 2 year's worth for my 2011 S4 and wife's 2015 Polo 1.2TSI - I've only ever bought from VW Group sources. Edit:- Washer N 0138157 (14 X 20) Torque 30Nm