rum4mo

Opie Oils, yes it even allows you to find out other peoples engine numbers, which can be handy!

I can see that you don't feel like ending up turning this "one stop shop" into a potentially "three stop shop", but maybe looking forward, check out exactly where your local VW Group Indie is located and aim to give them your business if/when necessary. These business tend to rely on word of mouth more than normal local garages, so doing the right job in the right way is high on their minds.

I was just looking at this from another way, VW Group seem to have messed up this DMF integration into this platform, so doing what I suggested would keep most of extra cost/earnings away from Skoda dealership, a good local VW Group Indie would have the knowledge and licenses to recode your car in exactly the same way as Skoda would do, that is still an option for you. Everyone wants/aims to only spend what is required to complete most tasks - dealerships have massive overheads which customers tend to end up paying for - that is all.

I'm guessing that you and/or your independent garage that you have used, are not willing to buy what Skoda is now providing to do a DMF>SMF conversion and so save some cash and that garage be able to sort you out properly?

Here is the instruction to remove the same assembly on a 2014> Polo:- Removing – Screw off tank cover. – Remove bolt -2-. – Peel rubber grommet off the fuel filler neck. – Pull tank flap unit -1- together with water drainage hose -3- towards rear -arrow a- out of fasteners and swing tank flap unit -1- out of side panel -arrow b-. "towards arrow "a" " means towards the rear of the car. "out of side panel arrow"b" " means outwards away from the body panel. Installing – Insert water drainage hose -3- through opening in tank flap unit and then pull it through as far as it will go. – Push water drainage hose -3- into side panel. – With hinge side leading, push tank flap unit -1- into side panel -arrow a-. – Then, swing tank flap unit completely into the side panel -arrow b-. Make sure that locking hooks engage correctly in side panel. – Pull rubber sleeve over fuel tank filler neck and tighten screw. Specified torque for bolt -2-: 1.5 Nm "arrow "a" " in this case means the reverse of the direction "arrow "b" " in the removal instruction. "arrow "b" " in this case means the opposite direction to "arrow "a" " in the removal instruction. Try that and see if it makes any sense.

Yes, of course the complete assembly will need to be replaced, but what I meant was, that if you examine the rear of the new assembly, you should gain some insight into how it locates in the car's side panel, and so, after removing the screw, should be able to manipulate it in a way that allows you to get the old one out and the new one in, without causing any body damage.

I know how to do that, years ago when we had a small bit of grass to cut, I bought a Flymo, so now and again I needed to buy new cutting "fingers" for it. Then, one Spring day we went to a garden centre and I bought a new pack of "fingers", and opened the glovebox of wife's car, a Fiesta 1.6Si, to put that new pack somewhere "safe" - and there was the previous pack, very annoying! Bulbs are only getting worse, though now mainly they are long life versions in newer, trickier to find and more expensive than when they were just the regular types, so changing most lights to LEDs has just ended up making your bulb spares kit a lot more expensive - and meant my box of "now not needed on ours cars" new unused bulbs, is getting quite full!

Can you not look at the rear of the new part and see if the top comes out first and then you ease the fitting up vertically to disengage from the body?

Good info, it could come in handy in the future for any VW Group car! I'm guessing that removing the broken fitting was quite simple after removing the screw - obviously the drain pipe needs removing before swopping parts.

There is a lower level at which point import taxes kick in, I'm not sure if parts being "used" will make any difference, I bought some Premium Philips bulbs from/via Amazon UK - the seller turned out to be in Bulgaria! That package zipped into Germany within hours and then across Germany to its exit point within another few hours - then arrived at my door 16 days later, which was what the seller did tell me after I bought them, I was in no hurry though maybe a bit concerned how that purchase would end up as I naively thought I was buying from UK, such is life, so I reckoned that moving stuff out of the EU area is still causing issues that introduce delays! I'm always a bit suspicious when genuine car parts take a long time to arrive, normally in my experience of Audi, VW and SEAT, it is next or the next day from UK warehouse, or a couple more days from mainland Europe - is it due to lack of demand or due to high demand is the question. That pipe or the the high pressure one has protective wrapping on the flexi section, my wife's 2015 Polo 1.2TSI has ended up being contaminated with oil, but I think that happened at its first service time, it has a leak somewhere in the AC system, but so far I've not located it using a pumped gas sniffer, next step is to remove the front bumper cover, hopefully it will be a damaged condenser.

I was just trying to set the record straight and not let anyone get misled by wrong info, by the way, the lubricity of the coolant is not what the silicate granules are there to provide, it is there to promote improved or continued anti corrosion properties as I think the coolant additive that uses/needs that pouch boasts to be low in silicates as an improved environmental "bonus" - well if/when the coolant leaks out. I've never ever deleted a posting that I made that was proved to be wrong, editing yes to correct it so that no new reader ever reads it in its initial form, that is okay, but deleting it after it has probably been read by many people is not really good public forum etiquette - I think, again I could be wrong there. Onwards and upwards.

No No, I completely agree with what you wrote.

There is a probability that that 80's Polo coupe had either VW11 front callipers with 239 X 10mm discs, or ATE front callipers with 239 X 20mm discs. Both of them seemed to use 191 615 269A and 191 615 270A "retainers" on each front calliper. These would be much older calliper designs than FS11 or FS111 etc.

That is strange, my wife had a 2002 VW Polo 1.4 16V and it had these plated shims on the rear brakes from new, her current car, a 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI from new does not have these plated shims on its rear brakes, I've considered retro fitting them, but will need to see how much of a gap is left between the pads and the calliper carriers once I fit them - that car has TRW (Girling>Lucas) rear callipers, later cars from VW Group tended to have Mando stuff on them, so maybe they just copied an earlier version of Girling>Lucas rear callipers and not the later TRW versions.

That is the second time I've read that crazy wrong idea about what the silicate in the pouch is for! Surely not the same person. I don't think that G12evo is available as a conc right now, it does can under 2 generic part numbers though, so what out, a 50% mix giving -35C protection or a 40% giving -25C protection - obviously the corrosion protection will be less for the lower/cheaper version of mixs.

My wife had a 2002 VW Polo 1.4 16V with FS111 front callipers and from new it never had any of these plated shim/springs on the front brakes, it did have them on the rear discs though. Over 13 years and 105K miles, I never had any issues with the brakes rubbing, I serviced them every other year until it was maybe 6 years old, then serviced the brakes every year - by servicing I mean that I removed the callipers from their mounting, removed the pads and clean up both, rubbing with a file at times to reduce the corrosion, and used Copaslip, ie copper loaded grease on all the metal to metal contact points. I think that what a previous owner has done, was to see that some disc brakes use these shims/springs and bought a set that fitted these FS111 callipers. Now and again I think about buying a set of shims/springs for my wife's 2015 Polo 1,2TSI, probably from the 9N Polo, and try to fit them to the rear callipers as VW Group no longer fit them - but the only issue could be that the calliper mounting bracket for later cars might have been slightly altered so that these shims/springs are no longer fitted - and that could cause the pads to end up seizing if I did fit them. In a similar way, on your Polo, maybe a previous owner has filed the front pads to allow them to be used with extra shims/springs - just a thought.

Ah, B&K, or now HBK, lots of their "bits" came in very well made wooden boxes, we changed to Endevco for some reason, maybe cost, another good company that ended up in Meggitt. Edit:- LDS, yes a good designer of shaker systems, LE, the American version was nice and cheap and suited production budgets. Another Edit:- ah, reading that takes me back a few years, all good fun though, along with temperature chambers, lovely stuff!

I don't know what the actual size of these valves were in that picture, but once at work, a "very generous" environmental department loaned a contract that I was supporting a big Pye-Ling electrodynamic shaker kit, to get a new project moving before they sourced/funded their own new shaker kit, the valves in that very old, at that time Pye-Ling power amplifier which was probably round about 3.0kwatt, looked to be very big to me and very noisy and dangerous - though I was quite pleased when the "generous" lender had assured me that everything had been "gone over and refurbished", to find that by the start of play the next day, the shaker cooling fan had failed and "sorted out" the shaker head windings! The next stop for that kit would have been the scappy, my lucky break, I checked the carbon brushes on that cooling fan motor and found that they were basically gone, expired, worn down to next to nothing. The next generation of big power amps had what was called "trombones" of discrete transistor pairs - all water cooled, easier to work on when things failed, which they usually did, so 2 "pull" and 2 "push" arms handing over 6kwatts up to 2000Hz - and then it went to fast switching devices for the next generation.

Oh bother, another fuel leak has been reported on another forum, a VW Polo 1.2TSI - and so it goes on, so far only " 2 loose bolts" being mentioned!

Certainly space saving having that which is really 2 functions in 1 compact package, but leaving the price to one side, I always have an issue with buying what I see as a "2 in 1" function device when I could buying same quality/reliability as 2 separate items - and still have one fully working if the other failed, maybe that is just my way of looking at things though. My old school jump pack which is now only that as its built in tyre compressor gave up years ago and was removed, can be freely moved around and used elsewhere while my CTEK charge is busy maintaining a battery in a car - and that jump pack has a 19Ahr gel battery which does not cost much to replace. That jump pack only seems to ever get used as a portable 12V DC power source for powering 12V DC tools. I do admire these compact modern jump packs, but so far have not gone down that route, an ex-work friend has one, needs it as he only uses his car for extremely short journeys and does not have mains in his garage or suitable space outside his house to run an extension lead.

Just to clear up, that car never ever had a plastic dust/water cover on the end of its wiper arm, that small plastic bung to cover the nut is all that gets fitted to front wiper arms nowadays - well from VW Group anyway, so new/used arms it will need, I'd think getting a good job done on alloy that has powdered away like that, will be a bit tricky - even using many coats of satin finish Hammerite .

Sorry for butting in, but you do know the procedure when replacing a compressor, you always need to measure out the oil that can be drained from the original compressor, then in your case, empty out the oil in the one you have bought, and refill with the quantity of oil that was removed from the original one, maybe even 10ml more to account for oil losses over the past few years, definitely replace the drier insert and lubricate all new seals with recovered system oil. I could be wrong, but while all the models of a certain car will use the same compressor, some will need a different fame type to enable fitting to the engine block or even to brackets in some cases, though same VW Group part number means you have the same item. Remember not to discharge the fridge gas charge to atmosphere, get it recovered.

I have TomTom to keep me right, even although wife will be armed with a recent AA or similar road map that must have a spiral binder and NOT have most important road junctions in the spine area! We also have with us, when off on holidays, maybe the original AA Book of the Road as it has much local content and small roads that still exist. The CAMRA guide, well as we tend to always use my S4 when on holiday, and my wife has yet to want to try to drive it 8 years on, I insist that where we stay either has a good draught ale selection, or a good pub within walking distance!

Ah vacuum windscreen wipers, not the best idea - and the space the vacuum tank took up! I had an Anglia van once maybe a 123E, it had town and counties on the rear, then I bought a new town and country complete with studs, not a good idea, but quite cheap, it was okay after I removed the studs though. That tyre had been a Royal Highland Show demo tyre.

Maybe consider contacting BBA Reman to see if or what price to repair your original one. First VW Group link I found on their website:- VW Passat BCM | Body Control Module | Volkswagen | Online catalogue | BBA Reman (bba-reman.com)