rum4mo

There is a probability that that 80's Polo coupe had either VW11 front callipers with 239 X 10mm discs, or ATE front callipers with 239 X 20mm discs. Both of them seemed to use 191 615 269A and 191 615 270A "retainers" on each front calliper. These would be much older calliper designs than FS11 or FS111 etc.

That is strange, my wife had a 2002 VW Polo 1.4 16V and it had these plated shims on the rear brakes from new, her current car, a 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI from new does not have these plated shims on its rear brakes, I've considered retro fitting them, but will need to see how much of a gap is left between the pads and the calliper carriers once I fit them - that car has TRW (Girling>Lucas) rear callipers, later cars from VW Group tended to have Mando stuff on them, so maybe they just copied an earlier version of Girling>Lucas rear callipers and not the later TRW versions.

That is the second time I've read that crazy wrong idea about what the silicate in the pouch is for! Surely not the same person. I don't think that G12evo is available as a conc right now, it does can under 2 generic part numbers though, so what out, a 50% mix giving -35C protection or a 40% giving -25C protection - obviously the corrosion protection will be less for the lower/cheaper version of mixs.

My wife had a 2002 VW Polo 1.4 16V with FS111 front callipers and from new it never had any of these plated shim/springs on the front brakes, it did have them on the rear discs though. Over 13 years and 105K miles, I never had any issues with the brakes rubbing, I serviced them every other year until it was maybe 6 years old, then serviced the brakes every year - by servicing I mean that I removed the callipers from their mounting, removed the pads and clean up both, rubbing with a file at times to reduce the corrosion, and used Copaslip, ie copper loaded grease on all the metal to metal contact points. I think that what a previous owner has done, was to see that some disc brakes use these shims/springs and bought a set that fitted these FS111 callipers. Now and again I think about buying a set of shims/springs for my wife's 2015 Polo 1,2TSI, probably from the 9N Polo, and try to fit them to the rear callipers as VW Group no longer fit them - but the only issue could be that the calliper mounting bracket for later cars might have been slightly altered so that these shims/springs are no longer fitted - and that could cause the pads to end up seizing if I did fit them. In a similar way, on your Polo, maybe a previous owner has filed the front pads to allow them to be used with extra shims/springs - just a thought.

Ah, B&K, or now HBK, lots of their "bits" came in very well made wooden boxes, we changed to Endevco for some reason, maybe cost, another good company that ended up in Meggitt. Edit:- LDS, yes a good designer of shaker systems, LE, the American version was nice and cheap and suited production budgets. Another Edit:- ah, reading that takes me back a few years, all good fun though, along with temperature chambers, lovely stuff!

I don't know what the actual size of these valves were in that picture, but once at work, a "very generous" environmental department loaned a contract that I was supporting a big Pye-Ling electrodynamic shaker kit, to get a new project moving before they sourced/funded their own new shaker kit, the valves in that very old, at that time Pye-Ling power amplifier which was probably round about 3.0kwatt, looked to be very big to me and very noisy and dangerous - though I was quite pleased when the "generous" lender had assured me that everything had been "gone over and refurbished", to find that by the start of play the next day, the shaker cooling fan had failed and "sorted out" the shaker head windings! The next stop for that kit would have been the scappy, my lucky break, I checked the carbon brushes on that cooling fan motor and found that they were basically gone, expired, worn down to next to nothing. The next generation of big power amps had what was called "trombones" of discrete transistor pairs - all water cooled, easier to work on when things failed, which they usually did, so 2 "pull" and 2 "push" arms handing over 6kwatts up to 2000Hz - and then it went to fast switching devices for the next generation.

Oh bother, another fuel leak has been reported on another forum, a VW Polo 1.2TSI - and so it goes on, so far only " 2 loose bolts" being mentioned!

Certainly space saving having that which is really 2 functions in 1 compact package, but leaving the price to one side, I always have an issue with buying what I see as a "2 in 1" function device when I could buying same quality/reliability as 2 separate items - and still have one fully working if the other failed, maybe that is just my way of looking at things though. My old school jump pack which is now only that as its built in tyre compressor gave up years ago and was removed, can be freely moved around and used elsewhere while my CTEK charge is busy maintaining a battery in a car - and that jump pack has a 19Ahr gel battery which does not cost much to replace. That jump pack only seems to ever get used as a portable 12V DC power source for powering 12V DC tools. I do admire these compact modern jump packs, but so far have not gone down that route, an ex-work friend has one, needs it as he only uses his car for extremely short journeys and does not have mains in his garage or suitable space outside his house to run an extension lead.

Just to clear up, that car never ever had a plastic dust/water cover on the end of its wiper arm, that small plastic bung to cover the nut is all that gets fitted to front wiper arms nowadays - well from VW Group anyway, so new/used arms it will need, I'd think getting a good job done on alloy that has powdered away like that, will be a bit tricky - even using many coats of satin finish Hammerite .

Sorry for butting in, but you do know the procedure when replacing a compressor, you always need to measure out the oil that can be drained from the original compressor, then in your case, empty out the oil in the one you have bought, and refill with the quantity of oil that was removed from the original one, maybe even 10ml more to account for oil losses over the past few years, definitely replace the drier insert and lubricate all new seals with recovered system oil. I could be wrong, but while all the models of a certain car will use the same compressor, some will need a different fame type to enable fitting to the engine block or even to brackets in some cases, though same VW Group part number means you have the same item. Remember not to discharge the fridge gas charge to atmosphere, get it recovered.

I have TomTom to keep me right, even although wife will be armed with a recent AA or similar road map that must have a spiral binder and NOT have most important road junctions in the spine area! We also have with us, when off on holidays, maybe the original AA Book of the Road as it has much local content and small roads that still exist. The CAMRA guide, well as we tend to always use my S4 when on holiday, and my wife has yet to want to try to drive it 8 years on, I insist that where we stay either has a good draught ale selection, or a good pub within walking distance!

Ah vacuum windscreen wipers, not the best idea - and the space the vacuum tank took up! I had an Anglia van once maybe a 123E, it had town and counties on the rear, then I bought a new town and country complete with studs, not a good idea, but quite cheap, it was okay after I removed the studs though. That tyre had been a Royal Highland Show demo tyre.

Maybe consider contacting BBA Reman to see if or what price to repair your original one. First VW Group link I found on their website:- VW Passat BCM | Body Control Module | Volkswagen | Online catalogue | BBA Reman (bba-reman.com)

I agree, the trouble so far seems to be that most people just want their car fixed ASAP as they need to use it, not good for those with this issue still to happen though, at the start of this thread I as a VW Group car owner, was "spitting blood" etc due to the risk to life, but maybe my wife's car's engine was build earlier to this problem occurring during initial assemble. In my previous posting I was wrong in saying that my wife's car's engine was built well before it, the engine was built 07-05-15 and the car was built 22-06-15. Surely Skoda know during which production periods this could have happened, and so only re-call potentially affected cars - across the VW Group marques, or at least inform VW AG and let them control re-call notices.

Yes, well I've only ever fitted Panasonic and the originals were always Panasonic across the VW Group marques, well Audi, VW , SEAT and as is said here Skoda. Previous cars, both used well, a 2000 VW Passat 4Motion and a 2002 VW Polo 1.4 16V, both got their fob batteries replaced at maybe the 8 year point in their life - why, well just because I thought it was time to do that. Current cars a 2011 Audi S4 very little used and a 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI got their fob batteries replaced end of last year/ earlier this year, the 2032 in the 2011 S4 were still in good state, the 2025 in the 2015 Polo a lot less so, maybe 3.04V down from the 3.25V of the new Panasonic batteries. Typically when you buy them online, there will be a picture of the actual batteries or a picture from the same card/batch and so the "use by" date can easily be seen, in that case the date was 2029, so that suited me.

Just unscrew it quickly, the valve will close off - and a small amount of liquid will appear and boil off, same when fitting the new one and ideally use a new O-ring, if you find any system oil on the old sensor, use that to lubricate the new O-ring, make sure any salty corrosion is cleaned away before fitting the new sensor. Edit:- maybe VW Group had a nagging feeling that their AC pressure sensors were going to be troublesome, so made sure that replacing these sensors would be possible without needing to remove the fridge gas charge first.

I was made responsible for weighing that virgin R245fa when it was delivered, and weighed when it was removed as waste. Now here is what might be a curious thing in the way some F-gases are controlled, all our R245fa waste was either scrubbed up and credited to us (maybe) or mainly sold on to foam blowers to be used as a propellant - think about it, where did that gas end up when used to blow foam, but not to worry by that time its description had been changed from being an F-Gas and so subject to strict controls, to being a propellant for the foam blowing industry.

Even in the 70's nothing beat a beaker filled with Freon to clean things up, it used to be one of our preferred cleaning agents, whoops. Even in ultrasonic baths - it used to disappear quite quickly, strange eh! Latterly I handled maybe a ton of R245fa a year, I'm not sure that was listed as being toxic back then, we knew it was maybe addictive though, not good when it was so difficult to minimise leakage - zero ozone depleting figures though, but a significant GWP figure. Anyway, no gain without pain!

Sounds like he only ever charges from a trade virgin gas cylinder and gets supplied with industry standard (for that gas type/pressure) waste recovery cylinders which tend to built like brick toilets as they will have a long and tough life as well as needing properly cleaned out and vac'd down ready for any other gas within that pressure range being loaded back into them by the next user. A smart cookie, playing safe, maybe even replacing the filter in his recovery unit after every recovery - happy customers maybe even.

I've checked that pipe on my wife's July 2015 build VW Polo - I think December 2014 engine build date, and it looks okay, well as much as I can check without removing the air filter box.

Yes, it is a bit of a game, if anyone does end up with a cocktail then that is not good, ideally the recovered gas should get sample checked while it is being recovered and diverted into a waste recovery cylinder for sending away for disposal and not into what will be a decant cylinder inside the all singing and dancing recovery/vac/charging machine. That could be one reason why to get a mobile operator to come to your house and only accept the use of a cylinder with R134a written on it - and a legal one with a one way valve, so that means virgin R134a from a reputable supplier. I'm booked in or my wife's 2015 Polo is booked into ATS Euromaster for a recharge next Wednesday and I'd doubt if I'd get very far asking them if they are using what is currently in the decant cylinder or using virgin R134a - I'll need to remember this time to remove the Lo side dust cap so that I will not have to buy yet another one, a bit of sticky tape will keep that area clean for a few hours.

I'd think that one of the better plans is to remove the pollen filter and refit the cover, then discharge one of these "bombs" inside the car with the ventilation system set for recirc and Lo temperature with the chiller disabled - the instructions will be on the can, ECP sell a few versions quite cheaply. While you are at this task, maybe look under the water deflector - ie plastic cover in front of the windscreen to make sure that that area is clear of leaves etc. Edit:- I'd think that the plan to remove the pollen filter is to stop it stripping the spray particles out of the air, also no chiller is to stop the spray particles condensing out of the air.

The way I read the Halfords/STP guff was that it was for R134a systems, but the actual wording, I seem to remember did not say that explicitly, which will be why they can legally sell it as it is not an F gas. Edit:- yes I know that R134a is not the current "in use for new cars" AC gas, I was referring to the fact that STP also sell a product for the 1234yr or whatever it is called.

Crazy way to do business, how to make someone's life harder!

Yup, one of the products is suitable for use as a top up for R134a systems - the other STP EZ Chill product is suitable for use as a top up for the current AC gas.