UndertheRadar

The PCM is the module that controls engine firing etc. Sometimes it can cause a fault but not show as such. have the thermostat or the temp sensor checked. The stat if stuck open will allow the car to run all the time on a rich mixture as it does when first started to warm up. If it doesn’t warm up it can stay on this mixture. It won’t show as a fault as the car is doing as it should when running a cold engine. some of the stats Come in a housing with a new sensor. Not sure on yours from memory, but the stat is my best guess given the symptoms.

Ring some of the dealers and ask as a trade enquiry on what they’ve had traded in. You’ll have to take it as is, but it’ll be quite a bit less. Most will sell trade first and then auction.

Is it mapped? are you getting a signal from the power train control module? thermostat issue could cause the engine to run on a constant rich mix, or faulty temp sensor could cause similar fault. I’d check the stat first incase it’s stuck open. the extra fuel will get pushed past the rings into the sump, hence the smell. It’ll also cause wash, so get the issue fixed before it does expensive damage.

I’ve mine in the driveway at the minute with a Ctek on it as well. Battery still in place.

Any chance it’s cold where you are the latch was frozen confusing the system to thinking it was already closed when it was actually open?

Consider the driving you’ve been doing as well. Just because your engine is up to temp after a short distance, doesn’t mean your box is as well.

I would just wrap the chrome on the grill surround and slats along with the front bumper strip and see how that looked before changing the grill. Only reason I haven’t done mine before now, is, I’m not sure I want black wrapped roof rails. Don’t think chrome rails and everything else black would look right either.

I’d say they are probably working, but the engine bay is poorly insulated and the feed pipes from the pump freeze quite easily. I’ve had to adjust quite severely my washer concentration after being used to my last motor, which had a heated bottle, nozzles and insulated pipes. check your fluid as some don’t go that low even when neat.

Contact Skoda directly and ask them if a failed turbo with such low mileage on a dealer serviced car is considered to be fair wear and tear at 4yrs old, in their eyes. There’s a chance the claim has been turned down due to your dealerships unwillingness to contribute.

I haven’t seen it for a while. I ran out of it at the end of last winter and this year is the first I’ve had frozen washers in a long time, and I was running 60% concentration of the replacement wash I’d bought. Was about the same temp as you had or maybe a degree or so colder. That Lidl stuff was fantastic.

Just be careful with the heat gun. They put out more heat than you think and if your to close will damage paint or plastic handle. my wife’s last two Fords have been prone to the same issue. I always leave a drinking bottle in the boot during the winter as cold water over the handle and latch area always releases it. It will freeze sharply again, so get in and close the door soon after releasing it. The cars heaters when driving will make quick work of thawing it out once your driving.

I changed mine to see if the red needles helped, but I still find it not the best dash to be able to read with just a quick glance. A small individual point at each speed point would be a simple addition and a great help.

I’d say it’s top and bottom for each door and then quarter light trim as well. Estate needs the roof rail covered as well. Then front bumper trim and grill. Wrapping gloss black is a much simpler solution and if done properly should last quite a while.

And now you have an entire car for the same price as 3 services in the Gallardo?

I’d wait until whatever warranty you have is up and then take it to Revo.

Here’s mine. I can fix that during the summer by cleaning and painting it or replacing the discs. Hope you get your hubs painted with your callipers. It always helps them look a good bit tidier. 👍🏻

It’s just the discs. They all do it. You can wire brush the area and then treat and paint them, or replace with a better quality disc. I always use the EBC range which has a coating to protect against corrosion, but I’d paint and then upgrade when you have to.

Sounds a bit low. You could get them to revert it back to standard and try a Revo map instead to see what the difference is with theirs, and if not happy remove it as well for your money back.

I bought mine directly from diamond car mats themselves. No issues with them. They cover the entire car very well especially the back foot wells with the kids getting in and out.

Do you get the secondary +1 indicator flashing when trailer is connected. If you take a bulb out of the trailer the dash should tell you it’s the trailer and exactly which bulb is out. Can’t remember which module it’s in, but depending on who fitted the towbar, the trailer adaption should be selected as well. It alters esp correction to allow for the trailer when it’s hooked up to the electrics.

You could forge the bottom end now and be done with any further concern. I’d still pull that “specialist” map out of it and replace it with a Revo item instead, as I would be inclined to suspect the modifying is not the issue, but more the modifier you chose.

This is a very common occurrence on the entire VAG range of vehicles. We regularly replace broken springs on Seat Leon’s and golfs etc for their first MOT.

Not with these in particular, but from Wino’s translation above, it’s acting like a faulty motor. It sounds like it’s trying but just tripping the failsafe on the motor.

It just hasn’t connected properly to the module. Mine sometimes throws up a central locking motor fault in each door. There’s no fault, it just doesn’t connect to the module properly to be able to run a scan so returns a fault code.

Ask them to check your flywheel.