UndertheRadar

You could forge the bottom end now and be done with any further concern. I’d still pull that “specialist” map out of it and replace it with a Revo item instead, as I would be inclined to suspect the modifying is not the issue, but more the modifier you chose.

This is a very common occurrence on the entire VAG range of vehicles. We regularly replace broken springs on Seat Leon’s and golfs etc for their first MOT.

Not with these in particular, but from Wino’s translation above, it’s acting like a faulty motor. It sounds like it’s trying but just tripping the failsafe on the motor.

It just hasn’t connected properly to the module. Mine sometimes throws up a central locking motor fault in each door. There’s no fault, it just doesn’t connect to the module properly to be able to run a scan so returns a fault code.

Ask them to check your flywheel.

Yes. I’ve been caught out a few times, where I’ve been in terrible road conditions and having to lower the window at a tool booth on the motorway, and it’s trapped a bit of grit and marked the glass. If it’s reasonably light, you can get most of it out with a glass polishing pad and a glass cutting polish. you could also use a horsehair detailing brush and some all purpose cleaner, and just go around them from the outside when washing the rest of the car, to avoid any buildup getting trailed down into the channel when the windows going down.

It’s has one AC system. It controls the temp on either side and rear if fitted by using control valves and flaps. Your probably hearing one of the motors on a flap cycling when you start the car. It may be sticking and transferring the cold air to the other vents. the other thing to note is that a lot of systems are set to prioritise the driver when they are running low on gas, and run reduced cooling to the other zones.

I have a gen2 play 5 in the kitchen. Play 3 in the living room. Play one’s in the garage, washroom and 4 of the bedrooms that we use. The cinema room has a connect wired to my processor. I either listen to internet radio or I have my iTunes account linked to the Sonos app on my Mac desktop, which I’ve stored all my CD’s on over the years. The play 5 WiFi connection quit on me last year and they replaced the entire unit without hassle. I get very little drop outs or connection issues, and when I do it’s normally the router needs reset rather than the speakers. you could buy one from CEX a bit cheaper than a brand new one, and you’d then have their 2yr guarantee as well. The app is also quite handy and easy to navigate.

Mine has it. When it recognises a sign it shows it on the VC in place of the clock. So very top centre of the dash. Also shows it on Nav screen.

It’s most likely grit and dirt caught in the weather strip on the outside. Put the window down and use a cloth with some all purpose cleaner or shampoo from your wash bucket to clean it along the entire width of the channel (from mirror to pillar). I do this every week when cleaning the car, but I’m slightly weird so that might be overkill.

My wife’s yoke has in wheel sensors. Genuine sensors were £20 each, as I bought a full set when I was fitting her winter wheels and tyres.

I’d say £450 is reasonable. Generally averages between £150 and £250 a panel for a good sprayer.

As above. Get them to service it and change to a yearly service as part of the deal to buy the car. Make sure they’ve done it before transferring funds. I completely ignore the stupidity of Vag service intervals, and a lot of others. I always return my own cars to a minor/major interval. Oil & filter (A service), then the next year, oil & filter, air,fuel,pollen filters (if vehicle has them fitted) and brake fluid (B service) Haldex every 2yrs and Dsg and spark plugs every 3 would be my schedule (where applicable) It’ll go between A&B every 10k or 12 months. I bought mine at coming up on 5 months old and insisted on the oil being changed as part of sale. I wasn’t happy after 3 months and dropped it out and replaced it again myself and reset the service schedule to 12 month intervals. Some consider this approach as overkill, but I tend to buy my cars outright and run for 10yrs plus, and find this a better long term attitude towards maintenance to help over the years with reliability. Obviously, if you rent it and throw it back after 2-3yrs it’s not going to matter much what you do.

I have a liner from car box that has a rubber gripper section that also folds out over the bumper when needed.

Bought my 272 L&K from Marshall. It was 4 months old and the first I saw it was when the loader pulled up at my house with it on it, lol. I liked the look of the sport line, but the spec on the L&K was hard to ignore as it was considerably longer as standard, before options. Although, it was nearly 47k new, so sits in the higher tax bracket for the fist lot of years. I average about 30mpg round town, and have had 44mpg on a longer trip. I’ve had a headlight, shock and front roll bar replaced so far under warranty. it’s a great all round car. I find it hard to believe anyone would recommend an Alfa? I suppose this past year has been hard on everyone.

I know the car pro has no issue on the front screen with blur or wiper judder. Honestly can’t see either it or the gyeon causing any issues, and it wouldn’t last long anyway when the wipers would be used. I have soft99 Glaco on all my glass already and replace it every 3-4 months. Just incase that’s a contributing factor to me not having an issue with the Hydr02 on glass, but can’t see it. Both companies are well known, and put out great products. The way it’s designed to be used would indicate an obvious overspray and therefore need to be suitable for every surface on the car. most of those products can be used on dry panels, with an applicator as well on a panel at a time basis if you’d rather avoid the glass.

I would always apply anything to a cloth or applicator pad rather than direct to panel to avoid overspray issues. But, if you’ve already a coating applied, I would use the car pro Hydr02 spray sealant. Wash the car and rinse as normal. Spray a panel or a couple of panels at a time and then immediately rinse off again with the hose. That’s it done. You do the entire car that way and then either dry it off or don’t. It’s a brilliant finish and makes washing continually easier at this time of the year, while maintaining protection levels. I think there’s some videos on you tube of the process. Possibly even one by Chicago auto pros on the hydr02 lite version.

I’ve never applied it to glass. Works well on everything else though. I normally use a dedicated glass sealant instead. mot if you can keep it indoors for a few days raceglaze 9h ceramic is a fantastic easily applied coating, you can put in everything from paint to plastic.

Have you tried a coating or even lacquering new ones before fitting. Plastic centres will corrode as well. I just replace them every year on my winters.

Ceriglass and a glass polishing pad.

The flat part of the panel needs run over with a polisher to return the gloss. The scuff can be touched in after that, and then blended again with the polisher. Otherwise you could just get a smart repair carried out on that corner.

Safest is to search your paint code followed by touch up on the bay of evil. I always get mine delivered from a bodyshop that sells on it, and have never had an issue with touching in stone chips.

It could be a motor fault in the rack. Not all that uncommon for electric racks to fail.

You’d be at it by hand for quite some time. If you know anyone with a dual action polisher they could have that corrected in no time. Might be best to look up a local detailer and ask them to just correct the door.

Have you tried the Bilsteins with standard springs?