UndertheRadar

Fitted one to my OSR door during the summer for same symptoms. It was more or less £250 from TPS for the part.

3M weatherstrip adhesive. Just be very careful when applying as you really only need a very small amount of product. Leave the door/boot open until it bonds properly. For cracks I would be tempted to use a toothpick to dab a small amount onto the inside of the cracked seal and then pinch lightly until it holds on its own, and then leave to set.

I’ve tried quite a few of the pouches as they’re quite handy when out and about. I’ve never tried the one you’ve posted, but never had any luck with pouches lasting very long. Ended up getting a smaller box for my wife to take to work with her instead.

Sensor faults normally fault the entire system. The fact it’s picked out the O/S light unit would point me towards a motor fault in that unit if all the bulbs are illuminated correctly.

We used to get about 3-4 months out of the pouches. The boxes last about two years or more, depending on use. The one used at home has lasted a lot longer than the one my wife takes with her to work.

If it drops again check for coolant under the inlet manifold and any signs of it below that on the sump. 2.0 tsi has a habit of leaking from the water pump.

I would say they are referring to you not requiring the damptronic version of the B6’s.

Smokey? Down on power?

I have bilstein top mounts with OEM bearings. Mainly because I just ordered them with the shocks. Running the same pro springs now as well. All good. No issues. Drives a lot better whether loaded or empty.

The ports can cause misfire with carbon build up, along with valves not seating correctly when the build up becomes extreme. I’ve seen them in pretty bad condition after as little as 40k depending on driving style.

Ok. It still sounds like the alternator itself is at fault.

Does the noise come back at idle under high electrical load. climate on with lights etc?

Without a ramp, I jack the car up and fit an axle stand. then use a smaller jack to lift the rear arm to compress the spring just enough to get an Allen key and bar in straight on the link to loosen the nut. I’ve also had to use a pair of vice grips to hold the remains of the link when they’ve snapped completely. without a doubt, uprated metal adjustable are the way to go, as far as replacing the plastic ones is concerned.

Mine is running Eibach pro springs, Bilstein B6 damptronics, H&R front and rear anti roll bars and racingline adjustable end links. With the car on stands at the rear the bar is handy enough to replace. You may need to jack a wheel up slightly to gain access past the shaft to one of the mounting bolts, but no great issue or hassle with that.

What sort of an accident? what was damaged? what was replaced? Im assuming it pulls to the right while driving, but brakes straight when the wheels are locked with the ABS light on under hard braking?

Running yellow stuff on mine as I have on all my cars for years, and previously ran red stuff before that. Never had an issue and they always work as described. the Ferodo as suggested above are also a good shout and a great pad as well.

Running PS5’s on mine during the summer. No issues with noise and a great tyre with good feel and grip.

Mostly that they eventually cause water leaks from the drain channels. But the reason I wouldn’t have one is that I’ve seen quite a few crack and some that even exploded while the car was being driven.

Speaker needs drilled out to inspect and riveted back into place when refitting.

ApertureS is easily qualified enough to fit front sensors, with more of an interest than you’ll get from most people to do it properly and neatly to a high standard.

If that area is handy to you, you could give BTS performance centre a ring and let them look at it for a second opinion. Clean, tidy and very competent. He’s based on Green road, not far from MS. He’d likely sort your other issues without hassle as well.

B6 damptronics are the items I fitted. So running on DCC with standard springs at the minute. with two failed monroes at around 10k and the replacements also banging and crashing, I’d no interest in trying to adjust them or calibrate either as the suspension banged away just the same with the suspension in the stiffened sport setting. Stuck the 4 of them in the bin.

Mine drove terribly on the OEM monroes. Crashed over everything. drove over a repair in the road one day, and the NSF crashed that hard it banged the glovebox open. My wife’s ST drove over the same patch without even noticing it was there. I was at the same point you are now. It almost made the car undriveable. You were constantly waiting for another bang and you spent your time tense while driving. I replaced with Bilsteins and it transformed the car. I still get the very odd clunk over certain surfaces, so I’m changing the springs shortly as well. Shocks Removed the bounce from the rear, although I did the front and rear H&R roll bars at the same time. I’m hoping the updated springs and then adjusting the bars and drop links will fine tune the small amount of noise left out altogether.

Could be the start of a PCV issue if you think the smoke/steam is getting bad enough or more than expected from shorter journeys. I constantly do a 12 mile return journey, and my engine oil, gearbox oil and water temp are all up to operating temp, at both ends of the journey when checked with a diagnostic, even during the winter. The hybrid system may just be in use for enough of your commute to allow moisture to build up in the system and cause it though, as my results are from a normal non hybrid ICE unit.

Caramel wheel