fr1nklyn

I think it gets loose before failure and that can be noticed in the first 10-20 seconds when you start the car for the first time for the day. Especially when the temperature is below 0. I've read somewhere that the timing chain should be checked every year/20k miles after the 10th year/120k miles. But I can't recall the source of this information.

Hi @pab567, can you help me with an update for my unit? Thanks!

Hi, I have 5Q0035840A, HW 25 and SW0245. May I ask for the latest sw update? I will plan to go to the Skoda dealer for a SmartLink code, but wanted to install the latest update first. Thanks in advance!

Hi, I have the single SD card head unit 5Q0 035 840 A and small 6,5 inch display unit 5E0 919 605 H. I would like to upgrade that display unit with 8 inch 5E0 919 605 N. 1. It's a straight swap, right? No additional cables or adapters are needed for the new display? 2. I don't have SmartLink, but I want to be activate by a Skoda dealer. Can I do it before display unit swap or it should be after that? I guess the SmartLink is operated by the head unit and not display unit, so maybe it doesn't matter.

@Alan_P That’s what my local dealer told me. I guess that each of them has it’s own opinion.. I wanted to buy G13 when I changed my tank with the one without a bag and they said no more G13 is sold because it was replaced with G12Evo due to the lag of silica bag in the new tanks. I’m not sure where I read that the coolant has to be changed every 5 years. Or maybe that was just a recommendation?

Can’t you fit small hydraulic bottle lifter? The OEM ones are also known as “widow-makers” for a reason..

Yes, there is no bag in the latest tank model and most of the cars produced 2019 and later have that tank model. The service schedule is the same - every 5 years or 120/150k miles depending on the country, but the coolant type is different. Before when the bag exists in the tank the coolant was G13, after that it’s G12Evo.

Good deal!

Wondering can the storage compartment be reused when retrofitting USB ports? It looks the same on @Addictive's pictures. EDIT: Actually I would replace the storage compartment to one without a door - 1Z0 857 130 9B9 https://www.skoda-parts.com/data/items/274/5c083bb88d9d2_xl.jpg

With so much gunk it could be blocked heater or thermostat. @varaderoguy asked you about the car temp, is it reaching the normal operating temperature and is it keeping it while driving? If it’s the heater core, you may want to try running the car for 15 minutes on 8-10% citric acid water mix while heating is set to max. Then flush few times with distilled water and try the heating. Mercedes has citrix acid radiator flush which is basically the same.

Isn’t it good to change the serpentine belt and its tensioner as well as alternator pulley when doing the cambelt and waterpump? Asking because I usually do this on my ancient 1.9 tdi where the alt pulley makes a lot of trouble when seizes. But that cars is on more than 220k miles

@e-RoottootI agree with you that the 6S DSG has proven durability and maybe 25k oil changes are a bit “overkill”, but having in mind how often the clutch(es) is engaged and gears are switched in the traffic during my week days commute, and also that my wife is driving the car like in a video game, I would like to sleep well by changing the transmission oil more often than recommended. I drive mainly highway during the weekends + some miles offroad due to the lack of roads to the village These service recommendations are supposed to guarantee no issues for the 4/5-years warranty.

These intervals are way too long, maybe if you drive 90% highway, they would be ok. Oil service every 25k miles for both DSG and Haldex+filter cleaning is what I’m following. And as a time interval, no more than 3 years if miles aren’t reached. My haldex was serviced twice for 4 years - on 35 and 70k miles, and what I saw today( 6 months and 7k miles later) is so much gunk in the hosing that it’ll most likely block the pump in the next 30k miles. But maybe that’s because the official service manual doesn’t mention filter cleaning.

Ok, I did mine today, again thanks for the great explanation in this topic! Few things to share: - I wasn’t able to remove the pump plug even after removing the controller, so I replaced the pump o-rings while it was hanging on its wire. - The pump filter wasn’t that bad, but despite that, I removed and cleaned it with break cleaner. - The housing where the pump sits was horrible! There was so much gunk and deposits inside, even thought the haldex oil was changed by the dealer 10k km ago.. The pump and housing should definitely be cleaned as part of the Haldex service. And IMO it should be done every 35-40k km(20-25k miles). Same for the DSG oil.. - I used Ravenol AWD Haldex oil instead of the oem one, that’s my personal preference. I just don’t believe the oem one is good enough, but again this is my opinion. - Pump’s bolts and o-rings can be reused. Change them every next service. The original ones were on 115k km(70k miles) and were absolutely ok - no leaks.

I've heard from several places that MQB platform vehicles like ours are prone to wheel bearing issues. Mine does the same - droning noise at 50 and 80 mph. The tricky moment seems to be how to determine which one is causing issues. Especially when the wheel bearing is in one of the initial failure stages where the vibration isn't observed.

BTW is there anything else which is good to be changed during the 5-year cambelt and waterpump service? Maybe another well known failing part? Old TDIs had the weak thermostat and sometimes temp sensor. I plan to do such service this summer, so it's good to know what else should I ask for.( I plan to do it in Skoda Dealer because they give me 24 months warranty ).

I am very thankful for this topic! I was worries that the DMF is on it’s way... I knew about the engine noise from the vacuum pump when the car is cold and idle, but recently I’ve started to hear some rattling noise occasionally when running and I was thinking it’s not connected to the vacuum pump, but more likely to engine or gearbox. When it happens that rattling can be heard at low engine speed like 1200-1300 rpm. The cars is on 115k kms and it’s fairly uncommon to be the DMF, but I thought it could be a defective clutch pack.. Anyway, I plan to change my timing belt and water pump this summer as a preventive measure, because of all those defective pumps on E288 engines I’ll write if something changes, but it’s unlikely.

Your suspension codes are: G09 which is general code for front shocks and L30 is for the front suspension range, but nothing is mentioned for the rear. I used the tool provided by @Carlston - http://igorweb.org/equidec.aspx G09 = Front shock absorption L30 = Suspension range 30 installation control only, no requirement forecast

Thank you @Carlston! Appreciate your detailed reply

@wallacebob For the rear ones you may need to crawl under the car.. My 16' Scout has no build code for the rear suspension, but only for the front: G10 = Front shock absorption L31 = Suspension range 31 installation control only, no requirement forecast Other codes aren't related at all. The clearance of mine is reduced as well. I'm following this topic with interest. Also wondering are L35 higher than L31 - are they ordered by height or it's just a code abbreviation?( thanks @Carlston :P )

My Scout has the Aux heater as well. It's pretty good feature for cold winter mornings I think it's a standard feature for most of the diesel MK3s. The outside temp should be below 5 Celsius and the HVAC set to 'HI'( ECON disabled ). Car rises rpms and after 2-3 minutes starts to blow warm air. It's not hot, but good enough

It seems a little chilly around you I guess Webasto consumes 1l/hour which also increases your fuel consumption? :/ This consumption isn’t bad at all for these temperatures, even for a diesel!

I would do donuts in this powder every night

Come on, give us some - we have 1 cm... I barely see it. But we expect some cold mornings in the weekend -10 to -13C, we’ll see.

I think I found a good video showing rear diff oil draining( at 2:45 ). Looks pretty easy actually.. The front one isn't shown/explained very well in this video.