fr1nklyn

So if it runs good and you have no other issues except the oil consumption, just drive it and have the habit to add oil every 1000 miles. Don’t drive it without oil…

Exactly what @Ecomatt said. It’s not worth the money. Just add oil if there is no significant power loss or failure. I had an A4 with such issues and spent a lot of money for turbo, pcv, valve stem seals, piston rings, etc. The consumption was decreased, but not as expected. I was adding 1 liter per 2000 miles after the rebuild. Was driving like that 60-70k miles like that with no other issues. Finally it did a hole in the piston most likely due to injector failure at 200k miles. Just drive it, this engine is known for its oil consumption.

Hello Guys, Can you help me with the part number of the front brake guide pins and bolts? I’m with 312 discs on Octavia Scout 4x4 2.0TDI184 engine CUNA. Not sure why but when I search for it, it says it’s part of the whole caliper. And the rubber boots have part number which in some places shows that includes the pins on other don’t - 7N0 698 647 A. There is also the same part number but ending with “B”.. So I’m really not sure which one is the right part number for them For those wondering why I change them - one of the bolts was corroded and broke inside the pin.. 🙄 and also I an idiot.

Nope, Valeo is low quality brand - look at the online tests done with different filter brands and you’ll see. You don’t need to change the fuel filter that often. The best for me seems to be: 1/ Oil + oil filter every 7-8k miles. 2/ Air Filter - every next oil change, e.g 14-16k miles. 3/ Pollen Filter - every 10k miles. 4/ Fuel Filter - every 4th oil change - ~30k miles.

Don't buy Valeo even if it's just an air freshener... Man, Mahle, Hengst. It's not worth the saving, it requires changing every 30k miles.

As @Ecomattsuggested, remove the undertray. Clean it well with brake cleaner and then dry it. The other option is just go for DSG service as it's due and ask them to do the inspection for you. There is no point to change the DSG fluid if you have a leak.

Let me correct you slightly - VW/Audi engines in general seem to do that. 😂 Especially if you “trash” them from time to time I had several VW petrol and diesels, and all of them were leaking a bit from there. I had an Audi A4 B7 1.9 TDI which even had additional rubber around the cap, which I’m 100% sure was designed because VW didn’t want oil all over the engine.

Mine is 184TDI and has 312 in the front. So maybe the 150 version is using the smaller size - 288mm.

If the waterless coolant meets the VW TL 774 standard, why not. But if that standard isn’t met, I see no reason to pay an extra money for higher risk of possible issues. I think currently only the OEM one and the one manufactured by BASF are meeting that standard. Their price is almost the same and I believe they are even the same product, but can’t prove it. My suggestion is to clean the system well, remove the silicon bag(or replace the whole tank if it’s not possible) in case it says Mit Silicat on it, add the G12Evo coolant which is already premixed with water, and don’t touch it in the next 5 years.

I’ve read that info in VWVortex or TDI club and also in Driver.Ru . Few people confirmed that via VCDS cable here in this forum, there was another thread about aux heater. Back in time, I wanted to retrofit Aux Heater in my old 1.9 A4 TDI, but my wife literally killed that car before I do it 😂 I did some research in order to achieve that goal and found that Aux heater was available only for certain countries at the beginning, then it became part of the standard package in EA288. It’s actually pretty cheap and not that effective feature by itself, but along with the EGR, EGR cooler and some revs increase, the EA288 engines definitely get warm faster compared to PD and some of the earlier CR diesels.

Hey guys, On EA288 engines, the aux heater is part of the standard package. In order to activate it, the following preconditions should be met: * Coolant temp below 75 C * Outside temp below 5 C * Battery above 9 V (in case of a low battery current a VCDS error code is written if other requirements are met) * A/C mode set to "Auto" * A/C temp set to "High" ( I think this one is optional, but I read this requirements somewhere, that's why I post this as well ) The revs will be go above 1000rpms. I personally put my car on 27-28 C instead of "High", because setting "High" temp makes the car blow cold air. Whereas the 27-28 C keep the blower on level 1 until some hot air can actually be blowed out of the vents. PS: I think the AC blower level ins't shown by default on MK3 and I activated that feature via VCDS, but it's been awhile, so I don't remember. -F

Maybe you’re trying to replace TDI184 CUPA with TDI184 CUNA? The latter is covering higher emissions standard - Euro 6. Vs Euro 5 on CUPA. The software they use is different, the gearbox and other stuff is almost if not the same. CUPA is usually fitted on earlier MK3 VRS TDIs and many owners of it observe high oil consumption. Whereas on CUNA this rarely happens. Not sure exactly why.

Hey I forgot to provide an update after the Hudson machine alignment - the guys there were really adequate and their system also had profile for the Scout and even for the regular Estate with Rough Road package( something Skoda offers for countries like Bulgaria and Romania where the roads are bad ). Only slight correction was needed on the rear. The car is on 80k miles. I have no issues with the car after the inner CV joint was changed with the aftermarket one. Honestly speaking, I had some concerns regarding the aftermarket part, but all good so far.

Since the car was for a cambelt service, he did the right thing - the silica bag usually bursts on/after the 5th year.

Resurrecting the thread to provide the latest part numbers of the rear door seals for the estate model( not sure are they applicable also for the hatch 😞 5E9839697D - rear left door seal 5E9839698D - rear right door seal I've ordered these because my 16 Scout has water in the rear doors which I hear when drive through the bumps 🤬 Hopefully these will allow the water to exit.

If it's not been coded, it's good to do it. Car adapts to the battery over time and you need to reset the settings once you put a new one. Otherwise the battery isn't properly charged. Here is what I did:

Isn't it working if you fill the diesel slowly with a regular funnel? I do add small amount of additives which means that there are some gaps in these anti siphon devices. So try with small amount of diesel, let's say 1/2 litre and try to fill it really slow and see is it leaking or not. Of course, prepare some towels.

More white with extra brightness sounds like you want to pay some extra money for halogen bulbs with shorter life. I usually trust Sergiu Gabor about such things because he is actually working as a automotive test engineer. Here is his video comparing Osram, Philips and Bosch All of them are good, of course, but you may have some specific preference depending on the test results. There might be other brands - cheaper, more durable or with better brightness, but these are the most famous models, I know.

I see. I’ll call the local Skoda dealer tomorrow to see what they can offer me and maybe tell me what do they have. I am mot even sure that they can do alignment.

Thanks for the advice! I was planning to do it on a Hudson machine next week. Isn't this better than the Skoda dealer where they use the standard alignment machine. AFAIK Hudson is more precise. There are not many Scouts in my country, they are much more expensive than the regular Octy SE Estate. Most of the people here prefer the estate + "bad roads package" which lifts the car almost like the Scout. So that's why I don't think the dealer would do the alignment better.

@Ecomatt @MATT0693 Thanks for the great advices.

Sorry for the bad wording - the right inner CV joint was replaced with an aftermarket one. There was no OEM and the alternative was to replace the whole driveshaft which was kind of expensive. No issues so far, but I haven't driven the car on journeys longer than an hour.

Curios, do you plan to do any "break-in" like stop from 60 to 0 few times or whatever TRW recommends or you don't find this is necessary? I plan to do mine soon and am collecting information from others' experience

Manual says that oil needs to meat VW spec 504.00 for 220hp version and 508.00 for 245hp version. 504.00 usually has 0/5w30 viscosity. Where 508 is usually 0w20. Castrol pays to have their brand on the oil cap The brand is your choice. I personally would try Millers if I were in UK, but there are so many good oil brands out there. If you don’t track, I don’t think it matters much as long as the oil meets the required oil spec.

I also use them for filters, pads and rotors, and some other parts from couple of years. If you order through the mobile app, you can get additional discount. For oils and some other liquids, I use ato24.de. They do have good Black Friday offers.