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Hey I forgot to provide an update after the Hudson machine alignment - the guys there were really adequate and their system also had profile for the Scout and even for the regular Estate with Rough Road package( something Skoda offers for countries like Bulgaria and Romania where the roads are bad ). Only slight correction was needed on the rear. The car is on 80k miles. I have no issues with the car after the inner CV joint was changed with the aftermarket one. Honestly speaking, I had some concerns regarding the aftermarket part, but all good so far.

Since the car was for a cambelt service, he did the right thing - the silica bag usually bursts on/after the 5th year.

Resurrecting the thread to provide the latest part numbers of the rear door seals for the estate model( not sure are they applicable also for the hatch 😞 5E9839697D - rear left door seal 5E9839698D - rear right door seal I've ordered these because my 16 Scout has water in the rear doors which I hear when drive through the bumps 🤬 Hopefully these will allow the water to exit.

If it's not been coded, it's good to do it. Car adapts to the battery over time and you need to reset the settings once you put a new one. Otherwise the battery isn't properly charged. Here is what I did:

Isn't it working if you fill the diesel slowly with a regular funnel? I do add small amount of additives which means that there are some gaps in these anti siphon devices. So try with small amount of diesel, let's say 1/2 litre and try to fill it really slow and see is it leaking or not. Of course, prepare some towels.

More white with extra brightness sounds like you want to pay some extra money for halogen bulbs with shorter life. I usually trust Sergiu Gabor about such things because he is actually working as a automotive test engineer. Here is his video comparing Osram, Philips and Bosch All of them are good, of course, but you may have some specific preference depending on the test results. There might be other brands - cheaper, more durable or with better brightness, but these are the most famous models, I know.

I see. I’ll call the local Skoda dealer tomorrow to see what they can offer me and maybe tell me what do they have. I am mot even sure that they can do alignment.

Thanks for the advice! I was planning to do it on a Hudson machine next week. Isn't this better than the Skoda dealer where they use the standard alignment machine. AFAIK Hudson is more precise. There are not many Scouts in my country, they are much more expensive than the regular Octy SE Estate. Most of the people here prefer the estate + "bad roads package" which lifts the car almost like the Scout. So that's why I don't think the dealer would do the alignment better.

@Ecomatt @MATT0693 Thanks for the great advices.

Sorry for the bad wording - the right inner CV joint was replaced with an aftermarket one. There was no OEM and the alternative was to replace the whole driveshaft which was kind of expensive. No issues so far, but I haven't driven the car on journeys longer than an hour.

Curios, do you plan to do any "break-in" like stop from 60 to 0 few times or whatever TRW recommends or you don't find this is necessary? I plan to do mine soon and am collecting information from others' experience

Manual says that oil needs to meat VW spec 504.00 for 220hp version and 508.00 for 245hp version. 504.00 usually has 0/5w30 viscosity. Where 508 is usually 0w20. Castrol pays to have their brand on the oil cap The brand is your choice. I personally would try Millers if I were in UK, but there are so many good oil brands out there. If you don’t track, I don’t think it matters much as long as the oil meets the required oil spec.

I also use them for filters, pads and rotors, and some other parts from couple of years. If you order through the mobile app, you can get additional discount. For oils and some other liquids, I use ato24.de. They do have good Black Friday offers.

I decided not to do it, because the whole repair would cost haft the price of the car Not because no one has ever suggested to do it 😂

I don’t want to encourage you for anything, but let me tell you something.. I drove an Audi A4 Avant with the last version of the well known 1.9 TDI engine( the bulletproof one, as some call it. Bought it second hand and drove it for nearly 100k km. It used to burn oil from the first day I got it. But no power loss was observed at all. I spent a lot of money to fix things in order to cure that oil consumption: valve steam seals, additives, rocker cover with builtin PCV, EGR delete, turbo CHRA replacement, different oil brands, etc.. Nothing helped, the oil consumption of about 1l per 1500-2500km remained. As I said, I drove it 5-6 years and then left it to my wife when I bought another car. I gave it to her and I started to change only the oil filter it was on top fortunately. At the end one of the cylinders stopped working and I sold it to an enthusiast who wanted to open the engine and fix it. It turned out to be a cracked piston based on the pictures which her new owner sent me

@Razvan_Ana Sorry man, even if you put Redline, that won’t solve your oil consumption issue. It doesn’t seem to be from it. Not sure can the turbo cartridge be checked for play easily on these cars, also the pipe after it for oil. Not sure is compression test going to help you. The oil control rings could be bad, but the other two on the piston to be good and the car can still burn oil. The compression will also be good in that case and therefore no loss of power to be observed.

Ravenol is a great oil - both VMP and VSW are good for your climate. But VMP provides better protection IMO. The HTHS is almost the same, but the TBN is almost 10% higher in VMP. TBN gives an indication of the amount of base available in the oil to neutralize organic and inorganic acids that accumulate in the crankcase of diesel engines during their operation. And last but not least, the VSW is more expensive than VMP.

Not sure how the things are in Romania, but there are many fake duplicates of Castrol, Shell, even VAG oil and many others. If it’s the same in your country, my recommendation is to use whatever you know it’s good and real. Note that my Skoda dealer told me that they don’t offer OEM 5w30 507.00 oil anymore, only 0w30 with that spec. And offered me Shell or similar as aftermarket oil, but again it was 0w30 with 507.00 spec. I think that it doesn’t matter much is it 0 or 5w if you don’t drive in a very cold country like Scandinavian ones. The wear protection and ash content is almost the same between both in most cases.

Ahh sorry for seeing this that late - I would also advise you to check the bearings. Same thing happened to me just before the end of warranty on the 5th year - Skoda dealer wasn’t sure is it front left or right one. It turned out to be both after they changed the bearing only on one of the sides first 😂

Check the PCV first as other guys already mentioned. On the vRS variant I would also suspect turbo on 180k km, just because people tend to buy it to floor it more often than the regular ones 🤪 Especially in our Balkans’ countries where you can drive a little more than the limit 😛 Has the car been serviced on 30k/2years intervals?

A little update - the local independent garage also said it’s most likely the right inner driveshaft. Its boot has a little hole in it.

I get around 35 mpg 50:50 city:highway driving. But the Scout is even heavier than the regular 4x4 version and a bit more lifted, I believe. Also the DSG weights more than the manual as well..

Hello guys, I had a 600km trip this weekend and noticed that car shakes from time to time while driving mainly on the highway - speed 120-140km/h. It’s also noticeable at 150-160km/h but not that much. It doesn’t happen all the time - this morning when I was returning back at home, it started after more than 1 hour of driving, not before that.. And it stopped after some time.. Not observed in the city driving at all. Judder stops once I release the gas pedal, that’s why I don’t think it’s caused by the wheels or alignment. It happened mainly on the highway, but I also noticed it while accelerating uphill with 70-80km/h. It was after driving 3 hours on the highway. I also think I noticed it once when exited the highway and went downhill to a roundabout while car was downshifting from 5th to 4th or 4th to 3rd. But that happened only once, other times it happened mainly on the highway why the gas pedal is pressed. I hope it’s inner driveshaft and not an injector(s)… But I left the car and didn’t notice any play, not because I understand much 😂 What do you think? I booked an hour for diagnostics for tomorrow, but when it happens it beats **** out of me because I was with my family in the car. The cars is Scout 184TDI 6sp DSG on almost 80k mile. Thanks!

Hi Mate, If that's the wet clutch 7-speed DSG, it should have documents for 2 services - on 60k and 120k. If it's the dry one - 1x service at 100-120k. If it's not been serviced for that time, I wouldn't buy it if I were you. Also if you plan to drive it in a city with a lot of start-stop traffic, then considering buying a manual. The combination of TDI+DSG isn't great for a tough city driving. Not to mention the DPF, but that's another story. If it's for motorway/highway driving, pick it up, again if it's serviced. Cheers, F

Thanks for the tips @Wino! Yeah, btw I've read somewhere that even with this method there are some airlocks, so it's recommended to have 1 spare liter of coolant mix. Which should be used after driving for 10-15 mins with turned on A/C on max temp and fan speed.