fr1nklyn

Here is one in Bulgaria on 130k. You can check the mileage at the local Skoda dealer Euratek. https://mobile.bg/details/11610379038508022 It has reverse camera, front and rear parking sensors, ugly alcantara leather , 8” Columbus and activated SmartLink. Plus the cambelt and waterpump are changed. Most probably because the pump had started to leak. Which is good. Appoint hour for full diagnostic in Euratek, talk with the owner, buy a one way airfare and it’s yours ( I did it like that, with the difference that it was a domestic flight ) haha And it’s 15k Euro, but I think you can take it for 14-14,5k.

Could be a mistake, but what’s that hydraulic fluid change at 108k? I thought that most of, if not all, O3 have electric power steering?

As a person who was in your situation an year ago, I would say that you can find pre-FL Scout for 14-15k euros. I bought mine for 15k Euro with 1 year extended warranty on 100k km. I was searching for it about 4-5 months so don’t hurry. I had tried both the 150 and 184 you can definitely find noticeable difference between them. Choose the 184 version, the maintenance is the same, fuel consumption also, not sure about the taxes in your country, but I suspect that will also be almost the same because they both cover the same Euro standard. The FL version is more comfortable, but IMO those headlights are ugly as toad Even the pre-FL vRS looks better than FL one. The back lights look better on the FL version Look at the car services on fixed intervals(yearly), not on extended ones(every two years). The extended intervals are for companies and people who change their new cars every 4-5 years. You are about to buy a second hand car and you want to serve you well for at least 4-5 more years - it has to be well serviced. * Look at the car below 150k km * check the DPF condition for sure, it can be cleaned in some cases, but it’s better to know that it’s below 60% accumulated soot. * The DSG is better in the petrol version. In the diesel versions it’s kind a clunky in the city between traffic lights if it’s driven lightly. It’s great when you floor it. If it’ll be driven mainly outside the city both manual and DSG are good options. * In case yoh choose the DSG - it should be serviced every 60k km. * The Haldex oil( the 4x4 ) should be serviced every 60k km as well. It’s poor 4x4 system perfect for most of the people going on skiing and things like that. The Subaru AWD is much better for offroad But their boxer engines are usually opened every next oil change * There are no full leather seats in the Scout, which is the preferred option when you have kids... so you can skip the alcantara if you are on a budget. * You can easily retrofit reverse camera, so skip that option if you are on a budged. * Those without Navi option on their infotainments usually have SmartLink option which allows you to use Apple/Android car play. So if it has SmartLink in the menu, you can choose it if it’s the cheaper car. It may need additional activation if it’s there but requires code( ~200€ ) * The Xenon headlights are great, it’s worth choosing a car with them compared to the one with halogens. * Many have defective water pumps, so if the cambelt and the pump aren’t changed at 150k km, plan to do it soon. The cambelt in many EU countries for this car is suggested on every 210k km and no time interval, but I would change it every 5-6 years/150k. Like they do in UK. Especially when you have in mind the defective water pump. * Good luck with searching and don’t hurry if you can, it takes time to find yours

I do have Scout TDI184 CUNA engine with no noticeable oil consumption. Not sure what’s the difference between CUPA and CUNA engines, but I don’t think there is much difference. Mine is driven like stolen, and it does some light offroad from time to time. It was even on extended service intervals for the first 65k... Not by me, but by the previous owner. I do drive the bulletproof 1.9 PD TDI the same way and it consumes 1l every 2k miles. It’s my old A4 which has always been on fixed service intervals. Some say it matters how you drive the car and how often do you service it, but in my case that’s not really true.

Agree. I would try this first, for sure.

Wait 2-3k miles and see is this the case. BTW was the car recoded after the DPF cleaning? Not sure is this necessary? You may want to find out more info about that, because DPF cleaning isn’t official VW procedure - once clogged, VW recommends unit replacement.

Could be, yes. Can’t you for sure, but I drove brand new VW Caddy 2.0 TDI some time ago and didn’t notice a DPF regen in the first 1500-2000 miles. Even though it was doing mainly short trips and everyone who drove it was driving it as stolen Now it’s doing regens every 200-250 miles, it’s on ~30k miles.

It’s like that in the beginning if the DPF is new/the while car is new. Brand new car owners start to notice passive DPF regens at 1000-1500miles. Then when car reaches 5-10k, it usually happens every 200-300 miles. I can’t tell you exactly why this is happening like that, but when the DPF is new it takes a while it’s been clogged for the first time.

I think it gets loose before failure and that can be noticed in the first 10-20 seconds when you start the car for the first time for the day. Especially when the temperature is below 0. I've read somewhere that the timing chain should be checked every year/20k miles after the 10th year/120k miles. But I can't recall the source of this information.

Hi @pab567, can you help me with an update for my unit? Thanks!

Hi, I have 5Q0035840A, HW 25 and SW0245. May I ask for the latest sw update? I will plan to go to the Skoda dealer for a SmartLink code, but wanted to install the latest update first. Thanks in advance!

Hi, I have the single SD card head unit 5Q0 035 840 A and small 6,5 inch display unit 5E0 919 605 H. I would like to upgrade that display unit with 8 inch 5E0 919 605 N. 1. It's a straight swap, right? No additional cables or adapters are needed for the new display? 2. I don't have SmartLink, but I want to be activate by a Skoda dealer. Can I do it before display unit swap or it should be after that? I guess the SmartLink is operated by the head unit and not display unit, so maybe it doesn't matter.

@Alan_P That’s what my local dealer told me. I guess that each of them has it’s own opinion.. I wanted to buy G13 when I changed my tank with the one without a bag and they said no more G13 is sold because it was replaced with G12Evo due to the lag of silica bag in the new tanks. I’m not sure where I read that the coolant has to be changed every 5 years. Or maybe that was just a recommendation?

Can’t you fit small hydraulic bottle lifter? The OEM ones are also known as “widow-makers” for a reason..

Yes, there is no bag in the latest tank model and most of the cars produced 2019 and later have that tank model. The service schedule is the same - every 5 years or 120/150k miles depending on the country, but the coolant type is different. Before when the bag exists in the tank the coolant was G13, after that it’s G12Evo.

Good deal!

Wondering can the storage compartment be reused when retrofitting USB ports? It looks the same on @Addictive's pictures. EDIT: Actually I would replace the storage compartment to one without a door - 1Z0 857 130 9B9 https://www.skoda-parts.com/data/items/274/5c083bb88d9d2_xl.jpg

With so much gunk it could be blocked heater or thermostat. @varaderoguy asked you about the car temp, is it reaching the normal operating temperature and is it keeping it while driving? If it’s the heater core, you may want to try running the car for 15 minutes on 8-10% citric acid water mix while heating is set to max. Then flush few times with distilled water and try the heating. Mercedes has citrix acid radiator flush which is basically the same.

Isn’t it good to change the serpentine belt and its tensioner as well as alternator pulley when doing the cambelt and waterpump? Asking because I usually do this on my ancient 1.9 tdi where the alt pulley makes a lot of trouble when seizes. But that cars is on more than 220k miles

@e-RoottootI agree with you that the 6S DSG has proven durability and maybe 25k oil changes are a bit “overkill”, but having in mind how often the clutch(es) is engaged and gears are switched in the traffic during my week days commute, and also that my wife is driving the car like in a video game, I would like to sleep well by changing the transmission oil more often than recommended. I drive mainly highway during the weekends + some miles offroad due to the lack of roads to the village These service recommendations are supposed to guarantee no issues for the 4/5-years warranty.

These intervals are way too long, maybe if you drive 90% highway, they would be ok. Oil service every 25k miles for both DSG and Haldex+filter cleaning is what I’m following. And as a time interval, no more than 3 years if miles aren’t reached. My haldex was serviced twice for 4 years - on 35 and 70k miles, and what I saw today( 6 months and 7k miles later) is so much gunk in the hosing that it’ll most likely block the pump in the next 30k miles. But maybe that’s because the official service manual doesn’t mention filter cleaning.

Ok, I did mine today, again thanks for the great explanation in this topic! Few things to share: - I wasn’t able to remove the pump plug even after removing the controller, so I replaced the pump o-rings while it was hanging on its wire. - The pump filter wasn’t that bad, but despite that, I removed and cleaned it with break cleaner. - The housing where the pump sits was horrible! There was so much gunk and deposits inside, even thought the haldex oil was changed by the dealer 10k km ago.. The pump and housing should definitely be cleaned as part of the Haldex service. And IMO it should be done every 35-40k km(20-25k miles). Same for the DSG oil.. - I used Ravenol AWD Haldex oil instead of the oem one, that’s my personal preference. I just don’t believe the oem one is good enough, but again this is my opinion. - Pump’s bolts and o-rings can be reused. Change them every next service. The original ones were on 115k km(70k miles) and were absolutely ok - no leaks.

I've heard from several places that MQB platform vehicles like ours are prone to wheel bearing issues. Mine does the same - droning noise at 50 and 80 mph. The tricky moment seems to be how to determine which one is causing issues. Especially when the wheel bearing is in one of the initial failure stages where the vibration isn't observed.

BTW is there anything else which is good to be changed during the 5-year cambelt and waterpump service? Maybe another well known failing part? Old TDIs had the weak thermostat and sometimes temp sensor. I plan to do such service this summer, so it's good to know what else should I ask for.( I plan to do it in Skoda Dealer because they give me 24 months warranty ).

I am very thankful for this topic! I was worries that the DMF is on it’s way... I knew about the engine noise from the vacuum pump when the car is cold and idle, but recently I’ve started to hear some rattling noise occasionally when running and I was thinking it’s not connected to the vacuum pump, but more likely to engine or gearbox. When it happens that rattling can be heard at low engine speed like 1200-1300 rpm. The cars is on 115k kms and it’s fairly uncommon to be the DMF, but I thought it could be a defective clutch pack.. Anyway, I plan to change my timing belt and water pump this summer as a preventive measure, because of all those defective pumps on E288 engines I’ll write if something changes, but it’s unlikely.