fr1nklyn

Yes, VW started to use 0w30 instead of 5w30 in the last couple of years or even more. This is the trend, car manufacturers have to meet more ecological requirements and by using thinner oil car consumes slightly less and therefore produces less emissions. That shouldn't worry you any way because both oils meet the required standards for your car 504/507.00. Plus 0w30 should provide slightly better consumption and wear protection especially when cold. Both behave similarly when the engine is running on its operating temperature. ----------- 0w30 has less ash compared to proposed 5w40, but will more likely be burnt more than 5w40 filling the DPF even more, especially when there are issues with the oil rings. Your consumption of 0,5l per 6k is pretty normal and I would stick with 0w30 meeting 504/507.00.

My 6sp DQ250 is a bit jerky when cold but you can easily get used to it. I bought the car second hand and the transmission behavior was horrible. I had to adapt it with VCDS and is now much better. I do the adaptation every time I service it and I can say that’s right way of doing this for my needs(50/50 city highway driving)

200-300k miles shouldn’t be a problem. Continue changing the oil every 10k with full synthetic one and service rest of the fluids on time, and everything will be fine.

Why don't you try the Archoil 6400d? I'm not advertising it, but that's what it works for me and I put it once a year. Put it when your tank is almost empty at the gas station just before filling up. Then drive till 1/4 tank and fill up again to full. That's it.

You don’t run diesel on low fuel because of the sediment, but because the active DPF regeneration cannot start if the tank is less than 1/4 full.

Yeah, other people in the forum practice the same - premium fuel every 3rd or 4th tank. With these gas prices I prefer an additive - it’s cheaper and the result is the same. E.g. Oilsyn, Archoil 6900 or Millers Ecomax. I personally don’t trust others.

1/ Are you sure it's an injector which causes the issue? It could be a fuel filter or something else. Try to get it diagnosed first, maybe 2/ If you are sure it's injector note that injector cleaners are two-edged swords - they can help you, but they can also make the things worse. If other debris or gunk is "cleaned" from your tank by the same injector cleaner, it will go into your fuel filter and eventually through your injectors. So you should try it on your own risk. 3/ I'd heard good things about Archoil AR6400, but when I tried it, the only thing I noticed was that the DPF regenerations became a bit less often for few months. So I can't tell you is it working or not.

BTW the wear sensor is only one for an axle, right? Or I lost one 😅

I hope that one day that will work in my country as well If that didn't work, try cleaning it first. It costs like £200-300 compared to £1500 or so for a new DPF. Usually a DPF could be cleaned once or twice before replacement. But due to a rust formed by the harsh chemicals used for the cleaning, sometimes only once...

HAha these guys are crazy. I just did mine on the same car. Bought front ATE solid discs and front+rear ATE Ceramic break pads for about £180.

It is “6”, but it’s sold together with the caliper bracket and not as independent part. I think I’ll have to use an aftermarket part.

I usually buy stuff from Autodoc via Mobile app because it has better discount than the web platform. I added my car profile inside the app and now I just leave filters and other parts in the "basket" until the discount reaches 30-35%. The highest is 40% but rarely happens. For the oil, it depends on where are you located. I purchase it from Germany, from Auto24.de, but if you are located in UK, there could be better local places like OpieOil or even Halfords. I've seen good Millers oil sample reports, but never used it because it's hard to find outside UK.

Thanks a lot @Carlston! I prefer the OEM ones, since the pins had no issues at 135k km. But do you know, does the 7N0698647A include the pins as well or only the “protective sleeves”/rubbers?

So if it runs good and you have no other issues except the oil consumption, just drive it and have the habit to add oil every 1000 miles. Don’t drive it without oil…

Exactly what @Ecomatt said. It’s not worth the money. Just add oil if there is no significant power loss or failure. I had an A4 with such issues and spent a lot of money for turbo, pcv, valve stem seals, piston rings, etc. The consumption was decreased, but not as expected. I was adding 1 liter per 2000 miles after the rebuild. Was driving like that 60-70k miles like that with no other issues. Finally it did a hole in the piston most likely due to injector failure at 200k miles. Just drive it, this engine is known for its oil consumption.

Hello Guys, Can you help me with the part number of the front brake guide pins and bolts? I’m with 312 discs on Octavia Scout 4x4 2.0TDI184 engine CUNA. Not sure why but when I search for it, it says it’s part of the whole caliper. And the rubber boots have part number which in some places shows that includes the pins on other don’t - 7N0 698 647 A. There is also the same part number but ending with “B”.. So I’m really not sure which one is the right part number for them For those wondering why I change them - one of the bolts was corroded and broke inside the pin.. 🙄 and also I an idiot.

Nope, Valeo is low quality brand - look at the online tests done with different filter brands and you’ll see. You don’t need to change the fuel filter that often. The best for me seems to be: 1/ Oil + oil filter every 7-8k miles. 2/ Air Filter - every next oil change, e.g 14-16k miles. 3/ Pollen Filter - every 10k miles. 4/ Fuel Filter - every 4th oil change - ~30k miles.

Don't buy Valeo even if it's just an air freshener... Man, Mahle, Hengst. It's not worth the saving, it requires changing every 30k miles.

As @Ecomattsuggested, remove the undertray. Clean it well with brake cleaner and then dry it. The other option is just go for DSG service as it's due and ask them to do the inspection for you. There is no point to change the DSG fluid if you have a leak.

Let me correct you slightly - VW/Audi engines in general seem to do that. 😂 Especially if you “trash” them from time to time I had several VW petrol and diesels, and all of them were leaking a bit from there. I had an Audi A4 B7 1.9 TDI which even had additional rubber around the cap, which I’m 100% sure was designed because VW didn’t want oil all over the engine.

Mine is 184TDI and has 312 in the front. So maybe the 150 version is using the smaller size - 288mm.

If the waterless coolant meets the VW TL 774 standard, why not. But if that standard isn’t met, I see no reason to pay an extra money for higher risk of possible issues. I think currently only the OEM one and the one manufactured by BASF are meeting that standard. Their price is almost the same and I believe they are even the same product, but can’t prove it. My suggestion is to clean the system well, remove the silicon bag(or replace the whole tank if it’s not possible) in case it says Mit Silicat on it, add the G12Evo coolant which is already premixed with water, and don’t touch it in the next 5 years.

I’ve read that info in VWVortex or TDI club and also in Driver.Ru . Few people confirmed that via VCDS cable here in this forum, there was another thread about aux heater. Back in time, I wanted to retrofit Aux Heater in my old 1.9 A4 TDI, but my wife literally killed that car before I do it 😂 I did some research in order to achieve that goal and found that Aux heater was available only for certain countries at the beginning, then it became part of the standard package in EA288. It’s actually pretty cheap and not that effective feature by itself, but along with the EGR, EGR cooler and some revs increase, the EA288 engines definitely get warm faster compared to PD and some of the earlier CR diesels.

Hey guys, On EA288 engines, the aux heater is part of the standard package. In order to activate it, the following preconditions should be met: * Coolant temp below 75 C * Outside temp below 5 C * Battery above 9 V (in case of a low battery current a VCDS error code is written if other requirements are met) * A/C mode set to "Auto" * A/C temp set to "High" ( I think this one is optional, but I read this requirements somewhere, that's why I post this as well ) The revs will be go above 1000rpms. I personally put my car on 27-28 C instead of "High", because setting "High" temp makes the car blow cold air. Whereas the 27-28 C keep the blower on level 1 until some hot air can actually be blowed out of the vents. PS: I think the AC blower level ins't shown by default on MK3 and I activated that feature via VCDS, but it's been awhile, so I don't remember. -F

Maybe you’re trying to replace TDI184 CUPA with TDI184 CUNA? The latter is covering higher emissions standard - Euro 6. Vs Euro 5 on CUPA. The software they use is different, the gearbox and other stuff is almost if not the same. CUPA is usually fitted on earlier MK3 VRS TDIs and many owners of it observe high oil consumption. Whereas on CUNA this rarely happens. Not sure exactly why.