fr1nklyn

More than 130 pounds for a glow plug... What's wrong with the VW guys?! https://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/products/1-4-1-6-2-0-tdi-common-rail-glow-plugs-with-pressure-sensor.html

Is there place where you can do some italian tune up? If yes, I would do the following: 1. Add a bottle of Archoil 6400-D and top up till the tank is full 2. Drive on higher revs, lower gear for 30min - 2000-2500 at least 3. Then don’t refill until the tank is 1/4 4. Do the next oil change as soon as possible - e.g. 2-3k miles. 5. Do a 15 min flush(idling!) before changing the oil. Use something high detergent and harmless for the seals, they all say so, but I would go with Lubegard’s or Amsoil’s flush. I’ve tried the first and it’s great. 6. Forget about the **** oil sold by the dealer, Shell, Castrol, etc.. Add some good high synthetic oil - Ravenol VMP is a great 507.00 oil. Amsoil European Series 5w30 as well, Redline 5w30 507.00 which is a bit expensive but very good too.. I only heard that Millers have good oils, but I haven’t tried any because it’s pretty hard to find it outside UK. I think Opie Oil have filter by PAO and Ester based oils, do search for one of these which meets VW 507.00 and find a reputable place where you can buy it( you don’t have to buy from them). 7. Them try to change the oil no more than 10-12k/year whatever comes first. I guarantee for the Archoil 6400 and Ravenol VMP, these two are really good. I hope that you’ll forget about this soon! Good Luck

Both front bearings were changed on mine too. It was done under warranty on around 110000 km, but I think they failed at around 90000…

@Srkigtd 5w30 oils meeting 504/507 spec are low SAPS oils, but the 5w40 are usually mid- or full-SAPS oils. Meaning that with the same oil consumption the DPF will regenerate more often and accumulate more ash with 5w40. Stick to the 5w30 if you want to keep that DPF for a bit longer. Try some full synthetic oil with PAOs and/or esters like Millers, Ravenol, Amsoil, Rowe or something like. At least you'll know that the engine is better protected. The oil consumption won't decrease.. IMO with your oil consumption you can change your oil every 20k km if you use a good oil brand. You add enough additives with the fresh oil which you're topping every 1000km. If the oil filter wasn't at the bottom of the engine, I would I would still change it every 10k km. That's what I do with my thirsty 1.9 tdi.. But the filter there is on top.

Cut that trunk @Vahids and get a good looking handle and well known reverse camera

Some people report casting sand in their coolant. As the rest already said, go the dealer and let them fix it.

I think I left my DRL strips only for CH/LH with the following VCDS changes: (8)-Leuchte6ABL LC5-Lichtfunktion C 6 - left as active (8)-Leuchte7ABL RB1-Lichtfunktion C 7 - left as active (10)-Leuchte6ABL LC5-Dimmwert CD 6 - value change from 127 to 0 (10)-Leuchte7ABL RB1-Dimmwert CD 7 - value change from 127 to 0 (11)-Leuchte6ABL LC5-Dimming Direction CD 6 - change to minimise (11)-Leuchte7ABL RB1-Dimming Direction CD 7 - change to minimise

I think the dealer is following the ridiculous VW flush recommendations when that happens.. In another thread someone had this “service” under warranty and it was including 6 or 8 flushes following some extra steps, plus the new G12Evo coolant on double price because it’s ‘ready for use’ mix.

Here is a video showing the DMF movement in both directions. In most cases the vertical movement does the rattling sound. Even if it’s new, the DMF should be checked for such vertical clearance before putting it into the car. https://youtu.be/3N4_pvjzgaw and another one from a TDI https://youtu.be/4sgzrNIl-r4

+1 I’m almost 99% sure that the noise comes from the DMF. Most likely it was fitted correctly as mechanic is Auto gearbox is specialist. The issue IMO is the actual DMF which is defective. I’m saying this because I had changed 3 DMFs on my wife’s A3 1.9 TDI manual until I find a working one with no vertical play and almost no horizontal play of the upper plate. By horizontal play I mean the moving of the plate in left and right when you try to move it with your hands. Do have severe rattling sound when you start the car cold and it’s idle on neutral? Like something in the gearbox is hitting its walls. Then is it changing when moving to Direct and still holding the brake? Do you hear shuddering/rattling when you turn the engine off? The acceleration between 1 and 2k rpm is also one of the symptoms of a bad DMF because this is the range where the torque increases( reaches max at around 1800 rpm ) and the load over the gearbox is changing.

@Intercityuk I would go for the OEM cambelt kit for another 7 years and 80 to 100k miles till the next change.

I was able to release the clip by pushing the metal clamp with the removal key from the bottom of the radio. I am sure that this happened because of the bad quality removal keys. So for god sake, don’t be lazy like me and use VW genuine removal tools.

Hi Guys, I want to swap my 6.5” screen on the pre-FL with the 8” one from the facelift. But all except one of the metal keys click. The bottom left doesn’t click when it’s pushed into the hole and therefore doesn’t release the bottom left corner… The rest corners are released and I can pull them out except this one. The display hasn’t been removed before, as far as I know. Any ideas how to remove the display unit in this case? EDIT: I tried different angles and to push the key harder, but without success, unfortunately. Many Thanks! F

BTW I also use Ravenol VMP 5w30 for mine and IMO it’s one of the best 504/507 oils out there. This and Ravenol VSW 0w30 for a bit colder climates or city driving with start/stop system enabled. As I wrote earlier, I also have no noticeable oil consumption with it. I’m about to try Amsoil AEL 5w30 for my next oil change, which is also very stable oil. I will post update with it as well.

@PetrolDave True - the climate in UK isn’t that different from the rest of the EU countries. I think that cambelt service is more like an option to extend your warranty(of the engine only) with 2 years.

Replace timing belt at 210000 kms for non dust rich countries. This is what my service manual says. No time interval is mentioned. My local Skoda dealer said the timing belt can last 10 years with no issues and that they never had snapped/broken belt. But the water pumps start to leak pretty often... They said that even the *fixed* water pumps start to leak after 4-5 years.

@brimarma Do you know, was the haldex filter cleaned as part of the haldex service or only the oil was changed? Hint: Skoda and rest of the VW dealers don’t do it. But many independent vw garages know for the haldex pump issues due to the accumulated deposits from the haldex clutch and clean the filter as part of the service. Try to launch the car on a wet road few times and see do you also observe shaking like the guy in the beginning of this video The noise could also be from the rear diff? I hope that the noise hasn’t appeared after the diff service. Has it? DSG+TDI in the city are **** combination, I can confirm.. Some say that driving it manually for some days adapts the DSG to owners driving style, but that didn’t work for me, so can’t tell you for sure. The Sport mode is kind of useless, it keeps revs too high for longer than I want why accelerating, but at least doesn’t torment the car at really low revs for the sake of a half liter diesel

Yes, the ceramic pads last a bit longer but it all depends on your driving style. Coast few kilometers after being on a track to cool them.

BTW you can also try the ceramic pads. I observed a big difference when swapped OEM ones with set of these on my previous Audi A4. They aren't fully ceramic, but have ceramic fibers in them. Everything cleaned and re-greased - slider pins and brake pad beds. That should give you a good brake performance. Don't forget about the brake fluid - I plan to change mine with ATE SL.6 which has pretty good characteristics.

Looks good! IMO if you change the theme and software buttons on the left side to green, it would be a little better because it will match the rest of the interior lights color.

For those who are wondering - the old cap can be reused. I switched my tank with silica bag with the latest model without such. It was like 25 euro. The old cap and its seal were perfectly fine.

She looks awesome!

Ours are worse I would look at it if it’s been bought from Bulgaria and has full service history. Otherwise it’s not worth the risk.. There are people doing the same in Germany, Italy and Switzerland. Buy one from a dealer or with full service history confirmed by a dealer. Regardless of the country.

Hi Buddy, There are quite many places where you can purchase letters, but what you need is to match the font type and size, if you want the OEM look in black color. There are some sellers in Amazon and eBay, also you can check these guys - https://www.carbadgeuk.co.uk/car-letters.htm BTW that reminds me that in Macedonia you can find some Octavia owners having letters “Ako ne te saka” as addition to “octavia”, meaning “If she doesn’t love you, leave her” - “octavia” means “leave her” ( I suspect that it’s funnier if you know the language )

Sorry for the off-topic, but why someone decides to order brown interior when there are so many black parts like the wheel, plastics on the dash, vent holes’ grills, etc. It’s just inconsistent