fr1nklyn

A bit off topic, but did you find manual downshifting in M-mode a bit jerky? I mean when you downshift manually, not when the car automatically downshifts when you're in M-mode I started to use the M-mode mainly for upshifting and leave the car to downshift itself when the revs are very low because it's smoother. Maybe the downshifting in M-mode on TDIs is a bit harsh because of the high torque on low revs. However, when I drive on mountain roads with a lot of corners, I usually give up on using the M-mode because of the need to downshift almost before every corner and the feel of that jerking. That's the case where I usually switch to the usually useless S-mode. Actually the S-mode is mainly used by me when I prepare to pass(overtake) someone on a motorway or on roads with a lot of corners, like the mountain ones. I already know that downshifting on TSI engines with DSG is less noticeable

BTW There is something I have to add in the initial post in this thread - the car is not moving when you release the brake pedal(as it usually does) until the throttle pedal is pressed. It happens on the very first driving, just after the DSG adaptation, but makes your blood run cold for few seconds

@varaderoguy Thanks a lot. I've read about this setting in one of your posts for Fabia 1.2 TSI, but I forgot to try it on the Octy. But I'll do it for sure. @Gerrycan The whole idea of "learning to adapt to a driver" is completely wrong. People drive in a different way depending on the situation they are in or road conditions, or even their mood. If we were robots that adaptation idea would fit us perfectly, but I for example, use to drive fast very early in the morning when there are almost no cars on the road, I drive slowly when it's wet or icy, and I like to keep the revs high(our of the turbo lag) when I'm on the highway in order to get that instant throttle response as I want. When DSG adapts to my "driving style" my reactions have to be different in these three situations, e.g. I have to press the gas pedal harder when I want to keep the revs higher. @Ecomatt Unfortunately I don't have the profile switchover button. I know that it does pretty good job, especially when you are in a traffic jam and you want to get away from the "saving fuel" behavior of the transmission and keep the revs a bit higher. I have a friend of mine with MK3 VRS TSI who tested it on a roundabout and the results were pretty good - in sport, car didn't switch to 4th gear when he entered in it with ~60km/h; in eco/normal(don't remember exactly), car switched to 4th gear, keeping the revs really low and saving fuel, which also made the car more unstable.

Hey guys, Just wanted to share some of my positive experience with the 6 speed DSG DQ250. I wasn’t happy with the DSG behavior on my Octy because it was jerky between 2nd and 3rd and vise versa. And also between 1st and 2nd with light throttle. So I decided to check the DSG oil by adding 1liter and also check for leaks from the DSG filter seal due to some oil on the transmission which I’ve noticed while changing the engine oil few months ago. The filter cap seal wasn’t leaking, but I was there already and added a liter oil, so changed seal and the filter as well. After the excess oil was drained when the fluid reached 35 degrees, I decided to do some DSG Adaptation a bit different from the one described in Ross-Tech site. I saw it in YT for Golf 7 R.. 1/ Auto Trans > Basic Settings - Reset All Adaptation Values - Basic settings for transmission - Calibration of Synchro-points - Start double-clutch fast adaptation 2/ Then I drove the car in tiptronic(manual) mode on odd and then even gears by pressing the gear selector twice quickly: 1 - 3 - 5 - 6 - 4 - 2 - 1. Did this few times. 3/ After this procedure, I switched to auto mode(D) and now the transmission is so much better - not jerky at all, upshifting and downshifting much better. Some people report that after some time their gearbox returns back its bad behavior and they have to re-adapt the gearbox. I don’t know how long it will remain like that, but I don’t mind doing the adaptation every 3-4 months - it takes 5 mins..

Sorry can’t tell you exactly as I haven’t don’t it on Octavia but on BMW 3rd series. I think you should remove the bumper. Yes, swap the module or the headlights. Just for the test you won’t drive like that

@sebic98 See the link to the pdf shared in the other topic - Number 4 is the control module. Each headlight has its own one. Try to swap the control module on your headlights and see is the DRL yellow on the other headlight after that. If yes, it’s from the control module and you don’t need to buy a headlight. If the same headlight still has yellow strip, it’s from the headlight itself and you need to replace it. But just in case talk to the seller to return it if it doesn’t work. Don’t buy it unless you’re sure it’s from the headlight, that’s my opinion.

Try to swap them first. In this way you’ll know is it from the control module or the LED strip.

I’ve just found a topic where the author had water leak causing the DRL control unit to fail, check yours maybe as it’s much cheaper solution

The design of the headlights seems to be poor despite the fact how awesome they look.. @varaderoguy is right - you have to replace the whole headlight if the DRL strip has gone. €500 For a headlight is a lot, plus it won’t look that good because one of the headlights will be new and the other one a bit old. You can try to polish it, but I still don’t think they will look in the same way. You can try recoding your car and use different lights for DRLs. I would also try something like these https://m.aliexpress.com/item/4001065992076.html (ignore the DRL strip, it’s not working in your case) Or you can also switch to aftermarket DRLs in the fog lights. There are some alternatives.

It looks like I will change these when I do the front break discs. The OEM one seems to have poor quality, so most likely I’ll be an aftermarket splash shield. Any recommendations for non-OEM brand? Even if the non-OEM don’t last longer, they will certainly cost less. BTW do the rears suffer from the same issue?

Buy petrol for these 10k per year. Especially if you drive mainly in the city. If you rarely drive the car and these 10k are done by long journeys few times a month, pick the diesel.

Sorry for reviving the old thread - did the oul change and filter today, the filter is real pain.. I tried to tie the cables on one side, but couldn’t remove the filter cap. The tried the other side, and finally removed the cap and then the filter. I had to put the filter first and then the cap. I know that they should be attached to each other before putting them on place, but just couldn’t do it…. Not sure how I did it last time. Anyway, just wanted to thanks for the great thread and explanation 😀

Thanks @J_D! I’ve just managed to do it by putting on the arm on the right place and clipping it by pushing it with a big screwdriver on top. My fingers are fat, that was the issue 😂

I’ve just changed my cabin/pollen filter on a little more than 10k miles and wanted to show you the difference( the one on the right was as clean as the one on the left ). I’ve also took a shot of the label on the new filter box. I wanted to buy Mahle, but found Knecht on a better price. It’s the same company and therefore the products they offer. BTW do you have any tips how attach back the little arm for slow falling of the glove box? It’s a pain in the neck, back and everything 😀

Yeap, I've driven in almost the same temps and the first few minutes are like my grandma is engaging the clutch on a manual as fast as she could. Especially from 1st to 2nd, 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 2nd. Higher gears are switched in much better way. In the winter mornings, I even started to avoid pressing the gas pedal until the car switches automatically from 1st to 2nd gear, otherwise that "fast engaging" shaking is noticed.

I haven't done it myself, but it's on my list. There are higher priority retrofits You can check this thread

I've collected data about pour and flash points, and viscosity index of several different DSG oil brands( tell me if I'm missing a big brand offering a DSG oil ): ________________________________ Pentosin FFL-2 Pour Point: -51 C Flash Point: 224 C Viscosity Index: 173 Motul DCTF Pour Point: -45 C Flash Point: 196 C Viscosity Index: 189 Valvoline DCT Pour Point: -48 C Flash Point: 188 C Viscosity Index: 171 Ravenol Pour Point: -51 C Flash Point: ? Viscosity Index: ? Amsoil DCT Pour Point: -58 C Flash Point: 230 C Viscosity Index: 171 Redline DCTF Pour Point: -45 C Flash Point: ? Viscosity Index: 177 Liqui Moly 8100 Pour Point: -48 C Flash Point: 200 C Viscosity Index: 174 Wolf EcoTech DSG Pour Point: -50 C Flash Point: 198 Viscosity Index: 170 Millers Millermatic ATF DCT-DSG Pour Point: -51 C Flash Point: 198 Viscosity Index: 172

I don’t think that VW is using different DSG oil in different regions, it expensive enough to cover logistics spending. Plus the FFL-2 is offered almost worldwide For the engine oil, they do it for sure. But the variety is greater and it’s changed much more often, so it doesn’t really matter for the 100k km warranty period. Castrol, Shell, whoever offers the lowest price I guess..

Just googled it and seems that you’re right that only DQ200 (dry clutch ones) have been affected by the fully synthetic to mineral or semi-syn change. Which makes the things even more appetite - if DQ250 already uses synthetic oil and the only VW-approved oil is Titan/Pentosin FFL-2, then the OEM one is either produced by this company or at least has very close characteristics to it. Actually I don’t think that someone is producing oil only for VW and not selling it as their own product, so most likely OEM = Titan/Pentosin. So why no one has compared the FFL-2 spec with a DSG oil offered by another brand and chose something maybe better for their transmission? Something with better wear protection, lower pour and higher flash points. Or just used FFL-2 instead of the OEM?

Hi Guys, Wondering has anyone tried an alternative DSG oil? I'm observing poor transmission performance when the outside temp is below zero( pulling and shaking ) during the winter months. And also when the oil is really hot - let's say if I drive it with 80-100mph on the highway and then enter in the city and drive it in traffic. The car is on 75k miles and Skoda said the DSG(the bulletproof DQ250) box is working fine. I just want to try another oil in order to try to cure this behavior... I've read that VW has moved from full to semi synthetic oil over the years due to issues which is one of my concerns not to do it. On other side reputable brands like Amsoil, RedLine, Motul, Liqui Moly and others, are offering their own DCT oil alternatives. It's also interesting that the only approved(correct me if I'm wrong) non-OEM oil is Titan/Pentosin FFL-2. Others are marked as recommended..

This is the right time to install double USB socket in the rear https://www.aliexpress.com/i/32987365210.html or similar for less than 50 bucks.

If that's the case go and get an OEM one, then. As a tip, hand tight it first and then slightly with the regular socket wrench if you don't have a torque wrench. The idea is to "smash" the oil o-ring a little, that's it. It doesn't hold the engine after all Good luck!

Sure, no problem. It's like £25-30 from Skoda. But you don't need to buy an OEM one.

It looks like someone has overtightened it. It should be torqued to something like 25Nm. The little drain plug should be 5Nm. The part number is 03N115433. Change it with the filter and the o-ring included in the filter box, because you’re already there and as you already noticed its location isn’t great

My 2c for the cabin filter is that it really depends on the country and area you live. I live in а really dusty city and even if you get the most expensive cabin filters like Mann FP or Mahle Caremetix, you still need to change them no more than 8, maximum 10 months. They can last an year, but you start to smell the diesel exhaust from the old bus or truck in front of you Here is an example of a cabin filter which needed replacement after less than 9500 miles: https://www.drive2.com/l/502761588478967927/ Odors from outside, foggy windows and blocked vents are all indications of a cabin filter for replacement.