Danoid

Jeez yeah that’ll do if not excessive but cheap enough

What happens when you press the button on/off which disables rear sensors? It’s next to gear stick I’ve never used it but I’d imagine it only disables it until next restart, but might be worth pressing it harder than usual to see if anything happens

Much better doing an Italian tune up now and again. Engine flush is good for countries which crap fuel and oil or the more politically correct way “countries with high dust” I believe the term is. Depending on your annual mileage you could always opt for bi annual oil change, instead of once every 12-24 months

Dirty buggers My first car was a K reg Audi 100 (year or so later got renamed to A6) and my insurance then was like £800 20 years ago or so and I was 19 ish, but I remember looking a Peugeot 306’s and was double what my 2l Audi was to insure. But yeah when you change alloys deffo declare it, it “shouldn’t” increase it by anything in theory especially if you get OE ones but make sure you tell them it’s genuine Škoda Superb alloys, just different style

£3k for insurance? Jeez! I might just stick with my current insurance company, I got in a grump because it’s going up £40 this year to £320 Guessing you’re a relatively new driver?

Oh result, clearing the code in code readers should have sufficed though. BTW is your car still on original battery? If so might be time to replace in the near future

Fairly certain it won’t be compatible, if it has a make then check their own website and see if they sell two different versions, if they do then nope won’t fit

If it’s mostly down by where the DRL’s are that’s normal because of poor design, basically LEDs don’t produce as much heat so get condensation. You should see that your actual main beam the condensation isn’t there because it’s warmer

Hmm, can’t work out your badge if it’s black or not, if it isn’t then you could do. These badges are black but with the background of your paint colour, looks good on white cars https://www.kopacek.com/skoda/superb-iii/superb-iii-original-skoda-emblem-int-version-front https://www.kopacek.com/skoda/superb-iii/superb-iii-original-skoda-emblem-int-version-rear and rear superb wording in black https://www.kopacek.com/skoda/superb-iii/genuine-skoda-autoas-rear-emblem-superb-sportline-black-version Then I would change wind mirrors to be black BUT!! You will need to declare these mods including alloys to your insurance company, I had a hell of a time trying to explain to my insurance company about my want in changing the wing mirror covers to a different colour (business grey to hyper green) and I gave up on the end as they seemed thick as hell (probably need to revisit) So might be worth ringing them up and see if they will continue to insure you or how much your insurance premiums will go up. You could always just do it but run the risk of the insurance thieves seeing it as an easy way out should the worst happen, up to you ultimately

Hmm there isn’t a way to disable the fob from opening so that suggests the actual key is at fault, try the spare key and see if you get the same. Hold down boot opening button for a few seconds. As for virtual pedal not sure, reading some peoples stories on here it’s hit and miss I believe, but one thing at a time and start with fob

Does yours have electric boot? Being SEL it should. For the key, I take it you held the button down and not just pressed it once, and tried on spare key? What happens when you open it manually by pressing the button on the actual boot? Could be motors failed but after 3 years seems unlikely

Okay so next up either get something like vcds, obd11 quite pricey, find someone on here who has vcds or take your car to a VAG specialist (most likely will use vcds anyway). The problem taking it to a non specialist garage is they’ll most likely use generic code readers, but you’ll need to make a point that it seems to come on after 17 miles. This is why buying vcds yourself will be better because you can do all the logging yourself, but tbh I wouldn’t know exactly what live data you’ll need to log but I guess they’ll be one for abs sensors

I believe you said it was the front left which shows the error? is this the one with the odd tyre? You can always move the wheel from front left to rear left and see if the issue follows

Why are you considering an EV when everything is fine with your car? For me there isn’t any benefit to go EV, especially now EV’s will be paying hundreds in tax, you’d think the government would have kept it free but Labour hate us “rich” people who own cars so hardly surprised

So I’m a bit clueless but had to look again and it was spinning, I also turned it down to LO from 23 and set it to max for windscreen I think the car is getting a bit dictator like. I’ll ignore it for now as I don’t want the stress again and hopefully when things heat up in a few months it’s still cold inside and fan spinning. Still convinced I have a really really slow leak though because of the pipe being oily and tape around headlight cables looks damp but could be from when previous issues. Does VCDS show refrigerant weight? Hopefully getting vcds soon and would be great if it did, I suppose worst case it’ll say if there’s low refrigerant when the high pressure sensor notices

So long story short I believe I have a leak on my a/c pipe by the back of the headlights It went into Skoda who said the leak was at the joint where the pipe joins behind coolant tank (thin pipe goes to thicker one) back in 2023 at some point I was adamant I saw the leak (ended in a hospital visit) on the thin pipe by headlight, had two dealers look at it and said it wasn’t leaking, but if I put my finger at the bottom of the pipe it’s oily and smells a bit like refrigerant, so I’m convinced I have a leak there Anywau it’s been fine for ages (probably a year at least) getting nice cold air, today I got in my car and had condensation and put the blower onto the windscreen and took a while to go I lifted the bonnet to check the fans and neither are spinning, so question is when a/c is activated should one of the fans be spinning all the time? To me it should be Outside temp is 5oC at the moment which I believe means a/c should be running and fan spinning. I’ve got a horrible feeling all the refrigerant has gone so a/c won’t kick in because it’s effectively empty, I suppose if I had vcds I could see the coolant grams or at least an error? thanks

At least with the non 4x4 you don’t have to do Haldex oil changes and filter cleaning (I believe dealers don’t clean the filter but should). Even though the 4x4 would be better for towing if it didn’t have factory fitted tow bar then the car could overheat when towing because factory fitted then means bigger fans I believe

What’s the recommended approach to changing the diesel fuel filter Is it always suck out diesel in the housing, clean then part fill housing with fresh diesel, put in new filter then top it up? or suck out diesel, clean up, put new filter in and use like vcds to pump new diesel in?

Most likely failing battery, how old is the car and is it still on original battery? No way for certain to prove if it’s the battery which came with it but have a look for a sticker which says BEM then some numbers, if you see that it’s likely to be original because most people will unlikely get a replacement from Škoda

I had this several times, then replaced rear discs and pads and never had the issue since. Guess it wasn’t releasing pads quick enough but not really sure. As it sounds silly cold where you are what’s the general battery condition like? Anything over 5 years old it might be worth getting a new one

I got these Nothing mentioned at MOT, as they just have to work and not as specific at headlights

Just thought quick one to check, if they’re directional tyres you have are they all going forward? Usually listed as “outside” probably easy mistake to make

I can’t quite remember now, but I’ve got the same system as you where it’s done via ABS instead of individual tyre sensors, does it say if a specific tyre is low like front left etc? On your nav, I think it’s like car > info something around that and it should list the issue

Cool, so what I would do now is go round and write down all the pressures Then in 2 days do it again and see if they are all the same, just to rule out there being a slow leak. I had this last year when I had my tyres change and it kept leaking by the valve after I tested it with a soapy spray and been fine since they resealed it. If all pressures fine and remain fine then can rule out tyres Next possible thing is them perhaps disturbing something electrical when changing tyres so check there’s nothing too obvious but I’d have thought you’d have more errors but worth checking fronts at least. I have had fun and games getting it synced, I believe I reset tpms with the engine off, then turned on car and reset tpms again then it was alright

Why only 3 new tyres? You should always have new tyres per axle (both fronts or both rears) I suspect due to different rolling resistance the computer is getting confused