Danoid

Do you mean euro6d? I didn’t think euro 7 exists yet?

They are activated by pressure I believe, so maybe the valve has failed

Is it not mirrorlink you use? So your phone screen (almost) is on the car screen? I’ve not used it in a while but I believe your phone needs the Skoda app, so might be worth removing that and reinstalling https://www.sinclairgroup.co.uk/news/how-to-activate-skoda-smartlink/ scroll down and it says how to connect using mirrorlink

Someone fixed this recently, can’t remember who but just needed silicone spray somewhere in the vents to relube it

It’s just doing its thing because of colder temperatures, basically they made it too efficient. Nothing to worry about

I bought 10vin vcds as well, so I kept putting it off as it’s hardly cheap but then I have a habit of not spending money

Changed my battery today, got the expected errors on dash so full lock left, full lock right then centered, all errors went but I did have “error stop start” so went for a mini drive, turned the car off then it disappeared. Everything else works and didn’t lose anything maybe trip counter but I rarely ever look at that. Car starting is so smooth now, I thought my engine mounts were going because it felt quite violent Basically wish I’d done it sooner

I don’t have Canton, just normal which is fine for me, but if you’re playing via Bluetooth have a look at the Bluetooth audio is set to “loud” or “high” When I first got my car it sounded crap then changed that setting and all good, as yours is 2015 I’d imagine that’s been changed by now though

At the very minimum the serial number (BEM code, which aftermarket batteries won’t have) needs changing so the car knows it’s a new battery, but I’ll do the lot and the ah most likely 68 to 70 if you have agm

I’m literally doing mine on Saturday, battery was cheap enough but VCDS was £299 (10 car vin) But as my cars getting on now and no plans of getting rid, VCDS will come handy going forward. I can let you know if I lose anything but I’m only suspecting trip counter tbh, if there’s anything else it’s easy to set back up again anyway

I replied saying I’ll change it next time I get 12v, I lied a little as it’s done it a few times since. Happened today so I’ve ordered a 10vin vcds (can finally use that to get tmc working again too woohoo) Also new Varta AGM A7 battery ordered So my battery has lasted longer than I thought and if I used my car properly could have lasted longer (only use it once a week for around 8 miles) Car was registered in April 2016 so battery probably at least from late 2015/early 2016, so almost 9 years old not too bad

I wish there was some indication because then I’d drive a little further. Only way I can tell is auto gears hold longer and revs higher than normal, time I’ve noticed I’m usually just about to get on my drive 🤦

Go with Varta

Jeez yeah that’ll do if not excessive but cheap enough

What happens when you press the button on/off which disables rear sensors? It’s next to gear stick I’ve never used it but I’d imagine it only disables it until next restart, but might be worth pressing it harder than usual to see if anything happens

Much better doing an Italian tune up now and again. Engine flush is good for countries which crap fuel and oil or the more politically correct way “countries with high dust” I believe the term is. Depending on your annual mileage you could always opt for bi annual oil change, instead of once every 12-24 months

Dirty buggers My first car was a K reg Audi 100 (year or so later got renamed to A6) and my insurance then was like £800 20 years ago or so and I was 19 ish, but I remember looking a Peugeot 306’s and was double what my 2l Audi was to insure. But yeah when you change alloys deffo declare it, it “shouldn’t” increase it by anything in theory especially if you get OE ones but make sure you tell them it’s genuine Škoda Superb alloys, just different style

£3k for insurance? Jeez! I might just stick with my current insurance company, I got in a grump because it’s going up £40 this year to £320 Guessing you’re a relatively new driver?

Oh result, clearing the code in code readers should have sufficed though. BTW is your car still on original battery? If so might be time to replace in the near future

Fairly certain it won’t be compatible, if it has a make then check their own website and see if they sell two different versions, if they do then nope won’t fit

If it’s mostly down by where the DRL’s are that’s normal because of poor design, basically LEDs don’t produce as much heat so get condensation. You should see that your actual main beam the condensation isn’t there because it’s warmer

Hmm, can’t work out your badge if it’s black or not, if it isn’t then you could do. These badges are black but with the background of your paint colour, looks good on white cars https://www.kopacek.com/skoda/superb-iii/superb-iii-original-skoda-emblem-int-version-front https://www.kopacek.com/skoda/superb-iii/superb-iii-original-skoda-emblem-int-version-rear and rear superb wording in black https://www.kopacek.com/skoda/superb-iii/genuine-skoda-autoas-rear-emblem-superb-sportline-black-version Then I would change wind mirrors to be black BUT!! You will need to declare these mods including alloys to your insurance company, I had a hell of a time trying to explain to my insurance company about my want in changing the wing mirror covers to a different colour (business grey to hyper green) and I gave up on the end as they seemed thick as hell (probably need to revisit) So might be worth ringing them up and see if they will continue to insure you or how much your insurance premiums will go up. You could always just do it but run the risk of the insurance thieves seeing it as an easy way out should the worst happen, up to you ultimately

Hmm there isn’t a way to disable the fob from opening so that suggests the actual key is at fault, try the spare key and see if you get the same. Hold down boot opening button for a few seconds. As for virtual pedal not sure, reading some peoples stories on here it’s hit and miss I believe, but one thing at a time and start with fob

Does yours have electric boot? Being SEL it should. For the key, I take it you held the button down and not just pressed it once, and tried on spare key? What happens when you open it manually by pressing the button on the actual boot? Could be motors failed but after 3 years seems unlikely

Okay so next up either get something like vcds, obd11 quite pricey, find someone on here who has vcds or take your car to a VAG specialist (most likely will use vcds anyway). The problem taking it to a non specialist garage is they’ll most likely use generic code readers, but you’ll need to make a point that it seems to come on after 17 miles. This is why buying vcds yourself will be better because you can do all the logging yourself, but tbh I wouldn’t know exactly what live data you’ll need to log but I guess they’ll be one for abs sensors