Danoid

Hmm unlikely to be then but could be flat battery, did you leave it a while undriven with things like dashcam on? If no to all I’m out of ideas, should be more knowledgable folk along soon, I just assumed the usual culprit

Those errors can all be caused by a knackered battery, so is it still on original battery? If it is then time to change if your car has an AGM battery then Varta A7 (don’t quote me on that) is best

This will explain it best https://www.skoda-auto.com/world/range-driving-modes Basically sport steering will feel heavier

Anyone know what Skoda themselves lubcriate door hinges and check strap with? Obviously when they use to service it they didn’t, don’t want to use white lithium and just interested in what they use

Hmm could be sticking but unlikely I would’ve thought. Keep an eye on the car when you start it for the next few weeks, does the car always do the needle sweep at start at? If it doesn’t then that may link in when it doesn’t work, as you said sometimes it does sometimes it doesn’t. I can’t help but might find a pattern at least

I’d avoid the 276 and just stick to the 190, purely based on the miles you say you do. I roughly do 3k miles a year in my 190 diesel, smooth enough and quick enough for my needs. If I did more miles I’d probably want something more pokey, but if all traffic is moving nicely is there any need for more power? Nope

Sounds reasonable to me, I just looked at Timmons as an example and that’s £231 for. So £300 guaranteed to work and genuine bits, much cheaper than losing your current one and being completely stuck

4 years old, 24k and needs new front suspension parts already, hmm I’d ask for them to be changed as a condition of buying it, they may have just been upselling though but something is odd

Moved front tyres to back and back to front, been meaning to do this and much easier with my newish 3ton jack as it lifts the entire side up, unlike my old crappy one

Doesn’t look it, if that price is right (I’d always ringing dealer up, confirming part number and get their price) then it’s not too bad at £40-50 imo I was expecting like £100-£150 each at least

Annoyingly one of my tabs broke the other day when I tried to ram something into it, mine might be fixable with some glue though It’s part 10 if you have an estate https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/SUP/851/8/867/867086

I’m sure mines only ever seen 50mpg once for my 190 tdi, only long journey I do though is when my cars rammed and half the journey is single A roads followed by dual carriageway (national speed limit), still get just over 700miles a tank though which is good enough for me

I’m surprised it didn’t auto brake for you 😞

If you’re in UK have a look at past MOT history, see if there’s any advisories for springs and if it stopped one year it might have been replaced already But compare both fronts for confirmation

Possibly not sure, once before work and once at work I wonder I don’t have an iv, but might be worth someone looking at the values then plug in and see which one goes up, not sure the difference between top one and locking

Could use this as a rough guide https://www.speakev.com/threads/interesting-vcds-parameter-number-of-charge-connections.135642/

Hello, I got them from Skoda can’t remember the price exactly but I think it was around £30 for both sides I done a longer travel in my car on the motorway and much improved but can still notice the rear noise is more noticeable

Don’t tell them about the chip, just get it booked in with a list of the problems and act dumb

As the car is that young then it’ll still be under warranty surely? Let them deal with it and update once sorted

90% sure that’s the case

I edited my post when you replied so probably haven’t seen my message. If you’re in doubt about it, then it’s worth doing it for peace of mind, if doing it yourself it’s probably only about £20 max including buying a Jerry can

It’s every 6 years or 60k miles, whichever is first. It isn’t included in any servicing and is something you have to pay extra for. Loads of videos online and looks simple enough. I need to do mine and think it’s as easy as remove torx screws and lift top metal off (do not disconnect hoses) remove filter, look down the bottom and if there’s any bits of crud then extract fuel, fill about half way (maybe less) with new diesel fuel, put in fuel filter, top up diesel if needed (it’ll rise when you put filter in), put metal top back and tighten screws. Finally turn ignition on and off a few times, then finally start car and done

I’m sure @JR RS has the plastic one

I can also confirm the new osram night breaker laser fogs are much brighter than originals, I can now actually see them work at cornering lights. I used them as fog lights on an empty road and lights up the side much better too, so happy purchase for them as well

It seems fairly common to creak from what I’ve seen on here