Binx1310

Also, new batteries require coding to manage the charging properly.

New battery time. Should be 14v charging. Low voltage drops communication between modules and that throws up a whole host of normally unrelated fault codes and lights. I did it to my wife’s kodiaq when scanning for fault codes at night with interior lights and auto headlights on. Panicked something crazy until I realised.

No. You can get all the functions the same in a round wheel but would have to get it retrimmed to get perforated.

With car scanner you can take a backup. And if you’re using the built in coding there’s a roll back feature. So if it goes wrong you can go back

If you have the front facing camera then yes. The coding depends on the camera hardware but once you have the reader you can look at what hardware you have to guide you

Cost. Trying to do it all as cheaply as possible as it’s a “nice to have” feature that I can enhance as a little project for a low price and basic skills. All in will be less than £100 and look OEM. Functionality may not be as good but I don’t have it now so anything will be better than nothing.

Huh? You could just use fuse jumpers off ignition live row or constant live row depending on your requirements.

Oh ok. I’ll have to take it apart and have a look. I’m planning on using Passat b8 lamps and cutting the Ali express mirror caps to fit them in. If that fails I’ll order the Ali express mirror caps with the lamps mounted in as @JR RS did.

35mm front, 30mm rear, unless you have DCC in which case its 25/20 as its already a little lower

Having said this I’ve just found pro kit on auto doc for £170….

What engine is it?

thanks. Are the pins in the connector and you just have to connect to wires or do you buy pins and then add to connector?

I use the car scanner App. And in the service menu there is DSG adaptation for DQ250. You do 45 seconds with engine off then about 2 minutes with engine on and you get all the clonks and whirring. I’m assuming it’s the same as OBD11 and VCDS in that it resets all the bite points and clutch pressures. I tried it before then doing the drive in odd and then even gears but it didn’t seem to learn the right kind of characteristic of driving for me. @AL2772 advised that once I had done the programming to drive it hard in D and that seems to have taught it the gear changes I like. I’ve got a couple of service jobs and a little project to work on with it first. Pro kit for the future at some point I think.

Did another DSG adaptation today. Since the DSG service the car has felt a bit sluggish and a noticeable jerk in and out of 1 & 2, and up changes even when at constant speed. So tried again with the adaptation following some tips from @AL2772 Now it is silky smooth and holds the gears nicely. Very happy with the result. Also loaded up with ceramic tiles for our new utility room. It turns out 180kg in the boot is just the right ride height. I think an Eibach pro kit might be the next big purchase once the builders are paid!

Not had a look. Just trying to be lazy and avoid repinning plug

Is there any spare space in the connector to drill a hole through for non standard wiring. Did that on my mk3 golf many years ago

How do you get through from car to door? Is there somewhere a cable can pass through or do you go via a connector. I have bought an aftermarket Ali express kit and plan to install as proof of concept with the included indicators for inside the cabin but if it works well will add the indicators into the mirror caps but will be non standard wiring to get through to the door so hoping there’s a hole (or a hole can be made) to pass cables through to the door without pinout on a connector.

I got my Superb done recently. As far as I know it’s the first one at 10 years and 130k miles. My wife’s kodiaq doesn’t cool as well as mY superb now and that’s 5 years old with 45k miles. Will probably Get it regassed before our summer trip to France just to be sure.

I am no expert at all, just somoeone who bought a Superb that needed some TLC and I've been learning along the way. I would say that these codes are related to that switch. Park/neutral switch is that one definitely. The communication TCU is likely impacted by this cabling as it will be a communication route/connected to TCU/ECU/other control modules. Im surprised the wrong one would physically fit. I thought they were related to what selector you had more to do with how it mounts. (White top/black top switch) There is also 2 versions of the white one, one with and without "A" at the end of the part number.

I reckon it’s the bypass switch. The plugs lock in to place, perhaps it’s not done up properly. If that was loose it may well give those errors. For the sake of 15 minutes it’s worth popping off the trim and checking the connections. Also check none of the wires are pinched by the trim replacement. Or possibly a dodgy switch. Was it OEM or aftermarket? I got mine from AliExpress and it’s been fine. But you never know.

I think that would just give the same error as before. What’s the exact fault code it shows? Have you tried scanning it while in limp mode? Was battery coded when it was changed?

How old is your battery? Sometimes a failing battery can throw up multiple faults like this as the drop in voltage means the communication network drops out. Unusual to do it while driving but could be a cause. If you do charge your battery it will also need coding in. Lots of posts on the forum about how to do this.

With mine I went down d pillar, down side of seat back and along sill. It avoids the airbags. There’s a couple of good videos on YouTube about routing the wires. The first is a genuine camera so wiring itself is different but good for helping with routing wires AliExpress one doesn’t need coding or canbus wiring as it’s all built in to the quad lock adaptor. But hard reset the radio (press and hold power button until it restarts) once installed for it to work.

Just had a look at the manual. If you remove the motor, you can then manually move window to the desired height apparently.

what about pushing the button whilst trying to move window. It may be that the motor is on a worm gear. If its got no go in it but you are lifting the weight of the window too then it might just have enough to move and you can at least get the window up