ApertureS

Here’s a direct link to Denso’s website, one of the main producers of engine components for *all* manufacturers they produce glow plugs, ecus, injectors and so much more. https://www.denso-am.co.uk/news/latest-news/2019/deneur19_28_glow_plugs_and_emissions/ tells you all you need to know, inc how glow plugs are used during regens

Bit of an old post but I can assure you the glowplugs are part of the regen process. Exhaust gases have to reach a certain temp to assist with regen and glowplugs help this. Same way that the old way of thinking is a glowplug only is for cold starts. Not the case anymore, glowplugs are used constantly for emission control and dpf regens as well as cold starts. Not necessarily, theres special tools to allow you to drill glowplugs out or recut threads without cylinder head removal. All depends on location

Depends on the year whether -2016 or after but it can be quite involved depending on if you just replace seats or strip them and add heated mats (either time consuming or money consuming), new wiring looms, control units (year depending) and heater controls. as well as the partial interior strip to get the seats out and run new looms

It was an optional extra. if you were interested I have the option of retrofitting the heated seats to your car. drop me a message if you’re interested

No problem doing your own work. The problem comes when you fake receipts from businesses that didn’t do the work. And fake vat receipts also.

Honestly a stupid thing to suggest.... So because youre scared someone wont do the work or what they say they will do, your solution is to do the exact same thing.... Its not playing them at their own game, if you cant trust the place you take your car, take it somewhere else.,

Depends on lots of things including how much weight, tyre pressures, where you drive, how you drive. Its hard to put a round figure on how long a tyre should last.

Cloning of keys is quite an old thing and is fairly safe against it. That isn’t the issue though, relay signals is the issue. they make the car think the key is right next to the car by collecting the signal from out of range and transmitting it to a receiver placed near the car giving someone the ability to start the car. Sadly not much that can be done to prevent this except for a faraday bag they tried timing the signals so any delays would not trigger an unlock but they got around this by using better quality equipment and it has a next to 0ms delay so the system can’t detect it.

You’re probably getting confused with the transportation spacers on the shocks. This isn’t one of them, normally they are brightly coloured

Sounds like a latch failure then, if you look from the inside of the boot where it would lock, you’ll see a small hole with a yellow piece inside, move that yellow piece to unlock

Will it unlock at all? make any sounds? Will it just not go up on its own? There is a manual release from the inside using a screwdriver

Is there any vw/Skoda stamp on it or part number? if not; it’s probably not part of your car and just rolled under there from something else

Wrist pins don’t just fail on their own so it’s either down to bad servicing or a bad map on the vehicle.

Hi there, that would not work on a new Superb as it uses more of a Audi Q2 design now since 2020-. the thing about no coding required is a complete lie, the mib unit needs to be told, the park assist also needs to be told and on top of that it will need calibrating using a OE ‘giant domino’ It can be done properly yourself but requires odis/vcds, the camera and loom and the calibration board. if you’re local to London I offer a fully fitted and calibrated service

A fault number is only a small part of the story. Especially the U112300, this is a generic identifier and unless you have ODIS (Genuine software) you wont be able to investigate it any further. Even VCDS cant. There is a lot more hidden within the fault code and its specifics of what caused it, where it was from and what was expected. The gist of U112300 is that a module has sent a message to another module and that unit wasnt expecting to receive the message. Or vice versa, a message was expected but never received. Generally down to configuration errors. On the flip side, unless you are actually experiencing any faults, ignore that code completely and act like it isnt even there.

Out of interest, why? There is a USB port in the centre console. But theres no 'to hand' power source worth using behind there, lots of low power stuff

Im not taking it like that dont worry. The forum is to help everyone out. They use a small water pump called an auxilary water pump to pump water where it is needed outside of the normal circuit. Look just like the one posted below and these can be used independent of the main block cooling pump for interior heating/turbo cooling and things a like.

Newer engines don’t use a thermostat as such. especially the tdi’s. the aim is to get the engine up to temp as quick as possible so they basically disengage the water pump to stop flow. Then to regulate the temperature they enable and disable the water pump allowing water to flow or not through the radiator. but same kind of thing on these; instead of a thermostat, the water pump shroud sticks 😞 (The Tsi’s use a maze of valves and electronic pumps plus a small belt driven one)

PHEV comes in handy in 2 main situations. - Short journeys under 20 miles being done on full electric - Longer journeys with a lot of start/stop traffic or steady cruising. at the point of stop/start traffic the most fuel is used because the engine has to not only idle but produce a lot of torque to get the car it’s initial movement. Taking this over with a high torque motor means the engine doesn’t have to idle at all and doesn’t need to be started till the bulk of the heavy lifting is done. the second point of steady cruising, if you’re sitting at 70mph at 2000rpm the engine is producing next to no torque and it’s just keeping things ticking over, no extra power demand but also no cylinder cut off as that is needed to keep it moving. In this case the motor can take over the 2000rpm movement (no sweat for a motor at all) and the engine is switched off. When power is demanded the engine can fire back up, when speed is reduced the car regen brakes. so if you want it as a all electric car then it’s not for you. Hybrid vehicles have a set criteria to get the most efficient use out of them.

Whatever you buy, make sure it is canbus error free and youll be fine.

Common issue on these sadly, either some connections behind the dash vibrate or possibly the fuel line issues.

Hi everyone, i am doing a retrofit of full self park/pla 3.0 to a earlier spec car and i need someone with the following spec car to supply me with a vin number: -Automatic -Estate -Superb 2017 -12 parking sensors/self park button Thank you, if you dont want to post here, please pm me. Reason for the vin number is so i can download a copy of the dataset for the vehicle based on a factory specced car.

You’re over thinking all of this way to much... VW spend millions of pounds to develop a car and not once have they ever said to put it in N when stopped. Stop trying to out smart the car and the technology involved in it. It knows what it’s doing and knows exactly how to operate it’s own gearbox.

Dear lord what is this post... why would you move the selector to N when coming to a stop, a DSG is a dual clutched gearbox that simply disengages the clutch packs when not moving. No wear, no problems, simple as that. Regarding brake lights on, auto hold will leave the brake lights on and im more than happy with that, if im stopped at the back of a queue id rather be well lit up than worrying about other drivers being slightly blinded for the short amount of time stopped in traffic.