ApertureS

To add on to premium/other brands. brembo sold aftermarket is not a premium product but just using the brand name but the parts are crap. pagid are a very good brand to go for that I’d recommend

Correct that ACC doesnt use the front camera, uses the front facing radar. Regarding pACC, a very specific radar is needed for this job but it can be retrofitted to all models yeah.

I completely agree with you, but the photo i think is a stock photo and not of the actual one as in the description it has the following Light Function: with indicator (LED), with brake light (LED), with reverse light (LED), with taillight (LED)

So the one you have found is for the newer models iV which have full LED units, you need a non facelift so 2015-2019 which is mostly led except for indicator and reverse if I was you, I’d personally get one second hand from either eBay or Synter have a lot of stock it seems.

Welcome to the world of superbs, as brilliant as they are. they love a good rattle. if you search on the forum here you’ll get lots of ideas from connections behind the instrument cluster to fuel lines under the car. All cause rattles and if I was you I’d go through them one by one and eliminate them

It will not start and you will loose all functions, Someone with genuine ODIS is needed to disable component protection and an online link to setup the coding.

The Bolero works just fine with highline cameras and it will need the canbus lines to work.

I came in here expecting something really dodgy. Im pleasantly surprised. Really good job there!

Far from it, most likely when they QC the car theyll switch to Low to check the air con functionality. Perfectly normal Regarding the warnings, it could be as simple as "Door open, Bonnet Open, Switch to P gear" can be loads of things that ping up completely normally if the door is open and engine running

Coolant is a 50% water mix with 50% additives such as anti freeze and corrosion inhibitors. Going anywhere from 40-60% is not going to be the end of the world and putting straight water in there is fine in the short term as long as not in the negative degrees yet. Chances are your electronic water pump and thermostat combo is leaking. Very common

this wont fix an issue if its just the drivers door. it will need to be code scanned, could be a damaged sensor in the door or another fault.

This is far from a solution. Those adjuster screws are there to put the headlight in a default position and adjusting it will only cause blinding to drivers or others...

No, you need the stalk to turn it on/off and adjust speeds and such.

Why would you bother, its an MOT fail to start with but also youre upping the voltage just to drop it again, waste of energy and heat. Just fit what the unit was made for

You wont be able to tell anything using VCDS as 12786208 is just a generic fault code. Only the newest VCDS or ODIS has the ability to actually tell you what the fault is. Have you changed any settings or codings for this to appear?

The size of the caliper and how many pistons it has won’t effect brake fade. it will be the size of the disc, cooling capabilities and quality of discs and pads.

the two wires not going through the connector are the heated mirror ones

If the radar has moved, it is not as simple as manually adjusting. It needs calibration using a special board and software down to less than 1 degree of accuracy so can’t just be done with adjusting the screws. id be more worried about what has moved because unless it’s been hit, something is an issue.

I had a new ignition button on mine too, failed on me, it sounds like I said, your canbus wires are either in the wrong place or the wrong way round. If the kit is good quality then the colours should match up with no issues.

Yeah its completely normal in eco mode. it just allows the car to coast along.

there is a menu which shows traffic side direction, it can’t be changed but will show it.

Something else worth adding, the Uxxxx fault codes are only half the actual fault, only paid for vcds or odis will give you a much more precise description of what the U fault is. see the attached photo, 3 things with the same fault code, but all with different actual faults.

6c and 5f are both on the convinience canbus network, where did you tap into your 2 wires for the reverse camera canbus? cause you may of got them either in the wrong place or shorted the canbus network out. And are you sure control module for towing sensor is what you have? As i may be wrong but i believe that to be a swivel tow bar that is used to sense the angle it is at. Really you need to start again, pull the wiring and reset your coding and go slowly 1 thing at a time. Drop me a pm if you need help.

Yeah you’ve made a bit of a mess of all your coding there, module 13 and 19 should not be faulting like that unless you messed around with coding. Obd11 is not really amazing for long coding, really you need VCDS. And if you can’t access 6C then you won’t have a way to code it at all seems you have also had the battery disconnected so make sure to start the car; slowly turn the steering full lock to full lock till the light goes out, then restart the car followed by a fault code clear.

To start with, what software are you using to do the coding. have you double checked your wiring to make sure no canbus wires are in the wrong places. And did you take a before and after full vehicle scan and admap file. what fault codes have you got? also, would be ideal if you could tell us exactly what you changed so we can find the issue.