ApertureS

Yes it can be done. Ive done it myself. You have 3 zone climate control, in which case it can be done fairly straight forward. New seat heating mats, custom loom, coding and a replacement rear panel.

The glass is so many layers on top of one another that looking through it at anything that isnt straight on causes a slight distortion yes.

Take your pick: Glass roof front - 3G9877913 Glass roof rear - 3G9877297 Outer seal - 3G9877459B

Did the weight of the doors or the odd look of the windscreen not give it away

If the LIN network is dead then there could be a chance the air con doesn’t operate. As the flap motors operate using the LIN network and so do the air con pressure sensors and compressor. When you say air con do you actually mean air conditioning or do you mean the climate system entirely?

They are fused with a thermal reset fuse so shouldn’t be a blown fuse (unless it’s been replaced). Youd have to check the power, ground and communications at the module first.

In the engine bay, just after the turbo in the top right of the engine bay.

Not at all. The mit silikat bag is the old part number and it supersedes to a new one without the silikat bag. That in no way voids any warranty. The person above is being taken for a ride by the dealer that doesnt know what theyre talking about (no surprise there)

I very much doubt you’ll be able to diy repair a steering clockspring nowadays, way too many very fine traces in there. worst case scenario could still be a rack or column though.

Not on this setup there isn’t. The steering rack is sealed to the car body and the actual column doesn’t leave the car. The shaft isn’t what is sealed, the rack to the car is. I understand what you mean as it was an occasional problem on Mercedes and needed greasing, but the mqb platform doesn’t work like that.

Some coolant reservoirs are double walled and the silica bag can’t be accessed so need to be replaced

There is no offical TPI or recall for this so the dealer would have no reason to swap out coolant bottles constantly. You are correct that the superseded part no longer has the silica bag but this is only replaced on a failed basis or is fitted on brand new cars. It is still a silly bag and really should be a recall but as its not safety critical, the chances of that are.... well youll have to ask @Rooted for some of his flying pigs

Have you checked the actual side lights are working? You mention high beam and turning and stuff but not specifically the bulb for the side light being checked?

These are the ones that matter. Is this after you try and start the aux heating? If so, its not being recognised. If it was locked it would say so under fault prevents starting. Although your recirc pump fault 'recirc. pump(B138215)' would cause a non start and needs resolving first.

If there is no fault code, the heater isn’t locked. Look under live data for ‘reason for last turn off’ or something similar and post what it says exactly. something else must be preventing turn on

My bad I miss read it!

Go to the radio vehicle page - active info display - here you can select the options. Your vehicle stats bubble per journey/refuel/total is effects by the last thing you looked at in the instrument cluster vehicle info

Please supply the full fault code as it will give more details. A coolant overheat will lock it out and i believe ODIS can unlock it when its in full lock, unsure if VCDS can do this.

I’ll try and see what’s in there tomorrow. ECU and BCM should all be the same between octavia and superb so should all be there.

My petrol superb has the PTC heater Im getting rid of it though in favour of the auxiliary webasto heater

As @Rootedsaid above, nothing has changed since your last thread. 2Q0 cameras cannot be hacked to enable TSR as it’s locked behind an encrypted code.

I’m trying to find a dashcam setup that is simply. 2 tiny cameras front and rear then you run the wires to a central hub in the glovebox or such. Eliminates the need for the big bulky camera on the screen and makes a cleaner look. they exist, just can’t find a decent branded one

Strip the inside of the boot out, check to see the cable hasn’t came away (the ends break off) or can you hear the pull close motor operating after it’s on its first latch? or the final possible cause, is it pulling tight and then going loose again, in which case it’s the latch itself

340mm are used only on 272 and 280bhp models. all other models use 312mm (not including police or other spec cars)

Any fault codes stored in parking or rear sensors (even if related to a flat battery) and if they haven’t been cleared will cause the rear cross traffic to disable itself. clear the codes and try again, if it proceeds there will be a fault code now to show what is faulting and causing it.