ApertureS

I’d start with fuses to see if any have blown. The hvac and infotainment are on different fuses but still worth a check? have you tried the power button for the radio?

Depends on country but in some countries its illegal to not have DRL's after a certain model year. Just a heads up for anyone doing this

Don’t just replace the camera, there are many things that can cause it. What we’re you doing when it stopped working? Have you checked for fault codes? Checked any wiring or pins?

I would be swapping the driver module side to side to see if the fault follows. If it does not, then the headlamp needs replacing completely.

It should stay attached to the bumper and not come off, then be fitted as a complete bumper and tray to the car. The tray is in two pieces and they both slot inside eachother. There is 2 screws that hold the lower section to the bumper then the upper section just slots in above it. Once its all attached to the bumper and the bumper refitted to the car then 4 screws secure the tray to the front panel.

Where Fuse 40 is, the white square below it, if you move the fuse into that position then it becomes ignition live.

+immobiliser readapting for all keys

Diagnostic is a lot more than plugging it in… and I’ve never had a diagnostic computer tell me what part/sensor to change either. if you go in for a noise from the suspension of course they aren’t plugging it in, but they still need to diagnose the fault. Whatever means they take, it’s still a diagnosis session with a cost. are their prices acceptable? Far from it in my opinion! But somethings gotta pay for the nice sofas and the free tea and coffee in the waiting room

You can move the fuse in the upper or lower position behind the glovebox. this will allow you to have a ignition live or permanently live fuse

Some people do it yes. Do i recommend it, no. The motors are made to apply a specific amount of torque to the piston screw and wind on and off a set amount to prevent binding. When you do it manually you override these values and can cause either excessive drag or can cause the motor to twist past its stops and can break the lugs off the motor. In the short term you may not have any issues, in the long term you may not have any issues, but there is still the chance you will do it wrong and something will have extra wear on it.

Forget about it. Its used when they build the car and is attached to a wicking bit of fabric throughout the frame. They soak the car with water outside and if the fabric gets wet then they attach a multimeter to this wire to detect it.

A fault code doesnt mean that is the fault. It simply tells you the ECU is reading something that is not within tolerances. So to break that fault code down - sensor short to plus/5V. Meaning a wire that shouldnt be is reading 5V. There are generally 3 wires going into this style of sensor and it is a pressure based resistor. So you will have a 5V input, ground and signal. First thing first is to check you have 5V on one wire, continuity with ground on another and possibly ground on the signal wire. After this you want to scope the wires to see what is happening. The actual voltage range for the signal wire is 0.5V to 4.5V - anything below 0.5V is classed as a short to ground, anything above 4.5V is a short to plus. Now depending on which way round the sensor works, as pressure increases voltage may drop or increase. So if we had a extremely high or low pressure outside tolerances you may see the signal voltage drop below 0.5V or above 4.5V which would throw a fault code. You need to find yourself a competent diagnostic technician who can actually fault find, confirm the fault, confirm the cause and repair/replace what is required. Not someone that will just read a fault code and throw a part at it.

Well that is a new one! My complete guess would be a stone chip or something has damaged the paint and allowed it to rust over time. Other than that, I have no idea how that would of happened.

Take it somewhere that has a clue what they are doing. Its really simple to inflate a tyre and place it in a bath completely submerged to find the leak. Chances are the valve stem or wheel bead has some corrosion causing an imperfect seal. Why would the mechanic repair something that he cant find a hole in? And if he thinks there is a tyre defect that hes tried to repair then thats even worse!

Chances are its a faulty ground whether its the wire, the plug or the ground point itself.

Depends on what diagnostic tool you are using. Obd2 is just the protocol used to communicate, it denepeds what tool and software you use. Some that would work are odis, vcds, obd11 but others may

Why throw parts at it without a full diagnosis? this is normally a symptom caused by a faulty latch sensor or the tailgate has not been diagnostically calibrated. also new struts will also need calibrating to work optimally.

Mpg is affected by a lot more than just the engine, driving style can play a massive part too Run us through what a weeks worth of driving looks like for you.

Still stand by what i say. A generic one is not a good shout, there are different dampers and spring combos meaning odd ride heights and handling. Theres a reason no one offers this as an option.

All depends on how much youre paying for the car, where you are getting it from, and the rest of the cars condition. If i was buying approved used for a premium price id expect this to be sorted. Even if they dont sort it, there is 0 harm in trying, worst they say is no

Can’t be purchased separate. Only as a new unit of course second hand any will do from a golf mk7, Passat or superb as you’re just taking the ring off, they can be had for as little as £25 whereas a new unit from the dealer is £650+ might give you room to haggle if they knock a few 100 off for you!!! Then just get a cheap one on eBay and fit it yourself edit: here’s a link to one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/325461977886?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=8xMc12cKTTW&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=eJG-MHlgQw-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Depends what method you used to disable it? if you set the voltage tolerance low then this is normal - you’re not actually ‘disabling’ it, just setting one of the parameters to an impossible level so it can never reach it, that’s why you get the consumer message and that’s why it won’t go into start stop mode

You won’t ever find a fully assembled prebuilt unit sorry. That is extremely cheap for them shocks! Monroe are the OE manufacturer and in all fairness, are not amazing as many users have found out with genuine shocks. But at that price!

They are just locating pins, just small roll pins they are called. Another part that seizes on so just wiggle gently and a decent amount of penetrant oil

Do you have a photo of what you mean? The connectors may be seized into their fittings so may need wiggling slightly, do not go over the top pulling it side to side else you will snap the pipe out.