ApertureS

Engines always have pressure in the crank case, thats why the crank ventilation is there. Youll need to tell us when it was last serviced and how many miles it has done since or we wont be able to work anything out. The dealer only ever fills a car to half way on the dipstick. This means your car has lost 0.5L if its dropped to the minimum mark, if youre saying youve only added 0.5L to bring it to the maximum mark then that makes sense and doesnt indicate a loss, the reason for the warning light im not 100% on and may have a faulty level sensor, but if youve added 0.5L to bring it to the max, then it would of never been below the minimum.

I do work in the industry and have done for many years. No finanical interest as my 1st comment on this post clearly shows im telling him that it sounds like a load of rubbish and to take it elsewhere for a second opinion. An MOT may not give that to him clearly and ive outlined that to him perfectly. Im not blindly telling him there is no issue without having first inspected the car, like you just have. Fraud in the industry is rife I agree, and it winds me up how much of it goes on with large chains and small garages. I work for myself on my days off and pride myself on open and transparent work on peoples cars that im sure many on here can back me up on. I wont be responding any further to you as it seems youre just looking for an argument, Ive made clear facts to him, Ive aired on the side of caution as its safety related and suggested a second opinion is best and an MOT is not a suitable second opinion in all cases as it is simply the bare minimum and doesnt mean it is 100% safe. Plain and simple as that, no need for any further debating, its all love here.

All of them brands do make OEM equipment yes. Their aftermarket ranges will often be made to different standards to a OEM branded standard. That being said they are all good brands and id personally fit them to my car, but doesnt mean they can be classified as OEM quality. Never said an MOT tester isnt skilled, nor dishonest nor able to spot dodgy brakes. But no matter what their skill level they have to stick to the MOT rules and that means they can and cant pass certain things even if they know they are okay or not okay. Never said anyone nor my MOT tester isnt up to a 'standard'? Autodoc is a perfectly good website for parts and is a lot cheaper than a local factors but thats at the sacrifice of time, a garage cant be waiting 2 weeks for your brakes to come in... they need same day/next day parts. I said half seized to imply a level that would still be within the 30% limit across an axle would still pass an MOT test even when clear that it is seizing up/has an issue. 29% is more than significant in my and anyone elses opinion, yet its still not a fail although should be. Even if both sides were evenly massively seizing up, the brake roller could show a very low cross axle differential and still wouldnt warrant a fail on that basis alone. Im not trying to start an argument with you, just stating very clear facts of what an MOT tester and test should cover and how many open flaws there are in the system that could mean any faults (and many faults) are missed as part of a yearly vehicle MOT.

Sorry but i disagree with a lot of what youve said. An MOT is the bare minimum standard a car has to meet - in no way is a guarantee that its at the safest level it can be. A brake disc can be 49% heavily corroded on both sides and the caliper could be half seized. As long as it passes the brake roller test it is a pass and advise. Does not mean its safe or acceptable. Im not saying what the garage is advising is true, but im saying an MOT is not a true test of a cars safety as much as youd like and hope to think so. And regarding OEM quality brake discs for under £32? Id very much like to know what or how you define OEM quality and where youre finding discs for under £32? You might be finding cheap brands like Eicher but they definately are not quality parts and wont last nearly as long as some premium brands. EDIT: A quote from the gov.uk website to back up my statement https://www.gov.uk/government/news/mot-changes-20-may-2018

You say it needed 0.5L, youve not said how long over? When was it last serviced? And who serviced it? Was it ever at the maximum? If it was serviced at a dealer its only ever filled to the half way mark.

Personally id be asking what they mean by glazed... A glazed disc is an interesting one seen as it is a smooth surface... Not a glazed pad is another thing when it gets too hot and is like a piece of glass and reduced brake action ensues. Pads they wouldnt know without removing. And why the inner face and not the outer? Is it cause you cant see it maybe. Personally id be looking elsewhere for a second opinion on this 'glazed' disc. All this talk of glazed is making me want a krispy kreme!

So as requested by @coppertop heres an update to the rear remote seat release - this was done on an estate and there are slight variants in part numbers depending on model shape and trim colour. So the simple method would be to just buy a rear bench with the feature already installed but not many superbs being broken and fewer with this feature means its fairly uncommon. Everything works perfectly but there is 2 snags! - You have to cut your fabric to allow the brackets to fit! - There are 2 part numbers for the main metal frames - each cost £450, the difference between them is unclear physically but parts show 1 is remote release, 1 is standard. Now the job is complete I can tell you the difference, the remote release ones have a sprung loaded bushing on the outside edge, this is to force the seats flat once the lever is pulled - Im not paying £900 for 2 seat backs and you cant buy just the bushing seperately. I dont have a remote bushing so cant tell you how it works but im guessing just a coil spring and some plastic. Im hoping to work out a DIY solution in the future. Now regarding parts, there are only 4 bits required. - Lever for each side - etka shows cables are seperate but take note - THEY ARE INTEGRAL and buying the lever will come with cables too. - Cable and connector for each side - this part clips into the latch on each seat and has a 30cm cable and a plastic bracket that clips into the seat. the lever cable clips into this - A black plastic cover that goes over the cable connector and guides the cable out the bottom of the seat. - hog ring/C clips for when the seat is stripped down Parts arent crazy money and cost about £100 all in. Im not gonna do be doing a write up for this one as its fairly self explanatory and just involves youtube and learning to reupholster a seat cushion and how to fit hog ring clips, and how to strip the cover off the seat. Below are some pictures for guides

I think we can all agree that there isnt a single best path or practice to receive a desired result. Personally with tar, ill start off with a tar remover and leave it to dwell and this will take the majority off, afterwards I wet the panel down and use a clay bar and this takes all the smudged tar out perfectly.

Clockspring can be had off a passat fairly cheap, cheap as in £100 Regarding the airbag - it all depends what wheel you go for, theres 2 kinds of airbag, and sadly no list of yes/no what fits what. The difference i believe is the top of the airbag is a slightly different shape. I dont think heated makes a difference to the airbag but to be fair, im not sure 100% what decides what

For the tar - a bug/tar remover and some clay bar will do wonders. For the window spots - because the windows are polarized it makes the spots show up more - a basic polish or even a glass polish brings them out perfectly, soap and a shammy wont do the job as its hard water spots basically.

That is very cheap! Good bargain there! Im looking at getting a flat bottom heated dsg wheel for mine and selling my flat bottom one. Will be looking at about £450 second hand i believe.

all installed and working correctly. Ill post an update with finds and pictures and what was used in the next 48 hours!

you still havent answered what engine were talking here but im assuming a 1.2/1.4 petrol? if so... the water pump belt is under a lot less stress, no reason it should fail, its not under tension either. and worst case if it did fail its not catastrophic, youd get a engine overheat - stop message.

Was the airbag the same? and how much did it set you back?

If you drop me a private message I have a small collection of different superb heating controls. When I’m home later today I can see if any match your spec, or if any are close enough to work and save you some money. If not I’ll help you source a cheaper correct module. out of interest - how do they know the control module is faulty, what was the problem and what tests have been done? Quite a uncommon part to fail really.

This sadly hits the nail on the head. Its in everyone but your best interests to take a damaged car away from you as quickly as possible and then offer you money for it. That way they hold all the cards. Dont be saddened by this though, this a very common practice between insurers and storage yards and 99% of people will follow the same path. They get first dibs on the car and a profit being turned, the insurer gets repaid any monies fairly quickly and you get to see your car nevermore but get a bit of cash in return. Something else you'll find is recovery companies or breakdown companies when you phone them after an accident to collect your car, you are now their best friend and they will do you every favor in the world to look after your car and put it in storage whilst insurance sorts it out. Why? Well because they can charge massive fees to the insurance company for transportation, storage and any other fees they make up. Sad to say its past that point though, but for your next steps these are what you should do. - Dont deal with copart, deal with your insurer. - Make clear to copart and your insurer you wont be parting ways with the car anytime soon and they need to HALT any proceedings to do anything to your car. - Get an independent assessment and you might find its an economical repair - Look all over for prices, get as many prices as you can for the most similar cars you can find - Speak to a company that deal with vehicle accident management - they will deal with it all for you, in return they take a fee but this is charged to your insurer and they work on your behalf and hopefully fight for a better price.

Was this repaired within your ownership? Youd think they would of heard the hissing and wondered what is was... or then again, if they just wanna stick a random screw through the trunk then they probably didnt care enough to check...

Well done on the update. Same issue plagues the superb's too. Intermittent right hand wheel doesnt work properly. Weird how the left side doesnt suffer though

First thing to note, Copart are an absolute horror story and I wouldnt of let them near my car until its decided. Just have a google of the state that some peoples cars are in even after returning from a insurance job. Tanks drained, parts missing, extra damage and all on cars that are just meant to be stored in limbo. Im not saying yours will be in that situation or condition but once its with them, id be looking at taking an offer rather than going anywhere near my car again. I would be asking for an independent assessment as copart are biased - its in their interest to write the car off and give you bottom dollar for it as they will auction/repair/strip it out for their benefit. Basically, dont trust copart as far as you can throw them and instead ask your insurer to assess it independently. EDIT: Some reviews for you - https://www.reviews.io/company-reviews/store/copart.co.uk

The new steering wheel is not compatible with the older setup, I believe it’s been covered on here before. but like above, a custom controller would work to fix it. Not easy though

The math makes that about a 20% diluted with old oil. I agree with roottoot above, if its longlife 3 oil that meets the correct standard and its been in for 10,000 miles or less. Id leave it personally.

got a photo of the finished product, wanna see how it looks ?

its a 19 inch Vega alloy wheel - take note that there are different colour variants as the wheel is on other Skoda's too. Part number 3V0601025AP HA7

Thats a quick way to not only invalidate any warranty you might have but also a complete bodge and possibly cause more blockages.... Simple answer is, find the leak, fix the leak. Dont go throwing random liquids in or cracking eggs in the system...

You definetely have a fault then.... do you by any chance have the electronic child lock buttons on the drivers door to control each door independently?