Former

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. If you get the Pingi permanent bag type and put them on the dash place them indicator side down as the sun fades the bags - and don't like me reverse the colour code in your head (even though it's clearly displayed on the bag) and put them in the microwave dry as when you open the micro wave door little beads fall everywhere - didn't even have it for a week, I also learnt two were needed really.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Thanks for reporting back. Well if it's the motor then good to get it replaced and dealer seems to have done well with their service, not something to be sneezed at.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. @EmmaWil if you don't have the paper printed copy of the Owner's Manual you can get a pdf of it from the following link using your VIN, on your V5C keeper's paper and other paperwork and on the vehicle or look for the (part) year (it was built). - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models ETA: if you read the Owner's Manual before or at the start of vehicle ownership and refer to it when required you will know more about your vehicle than many long term owners.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Saw a thread very recently on the same thing on here, sorry can't remember where, try the 'Search' and options top right of this page. Anything that upsets the computers and their programs and they will generally upset the car and you in expected and unexpected ways. Or in this case you could consider it a general electrical fault (from poorer design and build if you want). Others will not doubt be along to offer more help and solutions.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Might also be weather related.* For things like door seals you could try putting something on the door/window rubbers which can generally help also as a form of lubricating. I use AutoGlym Bumper & Trim Gel or silicone oil, applied with a 35mm cube of sponge, or a silicone spray or GT-85. The GT85 can also be used for the jobs WD-40 is supposed to but the GT85 dies them better has PTFE and smells nice, use the WD-40 on garden tools left in the shed over winter. Or if you're a VW fanatic stuff like one from Krytox or as they used to recommend a product called Gummi Pflege, which I discovered was just German for Rubber Care. You could also consider lower tech (possibly more reliable) solutions like Pingi dehumidifier bags left in the car and a (clean) slightly moist bagged synthetic-chamois * Weather - yesterday I noticed my neighbour's car windows were covered on the inside with dense condensation like I've never seen in the 17 years it's been parked in the same spot, thought I'd investigate this morning between showers but when I looked out the window the car windows were completely clear. For the last few winters I've seen moss on our rear 'garden' path that wasn't there in the nearly 40 previous years and it was there earlier this winter and a different type of moss to before. Not everything is solved instantly at the push of a button as many (hopefully younger) modern car drivers seem to think.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. See classic's posy of 2 February and Xmans's of 3rd February, plus a battery in low state of charge (but the car starts and the lights seem bright enough and there are no warnings) can cause all sorts of odd problems so check the battery a couple of hours after the car has parked up, engine not running, and that battery and earth connections are all tight and in good condition. auotomass put about start/stop and Kizotina about having a/c on both of these might (or might not) relate to low battery charge. If the battery is low fully recharge it not just top it up and just driving it often isn't sufficient to fully recharge. As automass has found a scanner can introduce issues and worries, another computer program on top of all the ones in the car that can have faults, issues and brain-farts, as with everything best not to rely on just one source of information and get other conformation. You would hope higher level garage and certainly Dealership scan tools would have less errors and issues. The scanners need regular updating and certainly before use on the vehicle. I'm not sure that leaving any scanner connected all the time is a good idea, if only for the fact of automass's experience.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. The gauge is biased to be at the reading of '90', I guess the idea is to give reassurance to most drivers who would worry at seeing needle movement and unsure what temperature is ok for what conditions, the same as removing numbers from gauges in the 1960s and 70s and then removing any other indication except 'C' and 'H' and perhaps blue and red sections at the extremes of the range. Whilst not disregarding the 'water' temperature gauge I prefer to use the oil temperature gauge to see when the engine is fully warmed and perhaps getting warmer when the water gauge remains nailed at '90'. (white dots in centre of gauge are for manufacturer's calibration testing, such as it was)

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Sorry I missed the differences in the heat air-con system names. As you probably already know Haynes do tend to have occasional errors and omissions but I've no idea about with Fabia. With this age of car and newer an appropriate bidirectional scan tool is often needed to help sort things and speed up diagnosis hopefully the garage will have one and be able to identify the issue quickly. Good luck, let us know how you get on.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Did you check your battery state of charge anyway? Always best to have the battery well or fully charged before fault finding on electrical or starting issues as this will help and a battery in low state of charge possibly hinder or prevent full diagnosis or resolve. Just in case, Radio and Television Investigation Service Problems with DAB radio reception. - "NOTE: Sorry, the tool currently only checks for BBC transmitter faults and known issues". - https://radioandtvhelp.co.uk/problems-with-digital-radio-dab-reception/#/DAB Good luck.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. This type of thing is a get you out of trouble sort of device more for getting the car started than really charging the flat battery. One way to kill a dying battery is to charge it too high and fast though this (pdf attached) Streetwise unit shows it's 10amp and "Typical charge time will take approximately 15 minutes, but no more than 45 minutes" - so not instant as some may want. It seems a little bit Peter robbing Paul to me but it shows - . "it will show the recipient vehicle’s battery capacity in %." . "Please Note: If the display does not show any figure, the recipient vehicle’s battery is defined as dead, it cannot be recharged. Please call for the technician for new battery replacement." - You would have to ask the manufacturer what they define as dead, some modern chargers give up on a battery far too easily where an old charger will be able to revive that battery. . "the display will show the charging level going up. Charge until it shows over 20%." - 20% . "Press the button “O” position again, when the display keeps over 20% means it’s ready to start" - so when over 20% you can start but the battery will still need further charging and just driving the vehicle may not be enough to fully recharge the battery and a full recharge is needed otherwise you could soon be back to square one, repeatedly if the battery doesn't get a full recharge. It's a quick partial fix and good to perhaps get you out of trouble but it's not something you should need to use often, or at all for yourself with just if required using an appropriate charger/maintainer as prevention/preparation perhaps two or three times a year if required (start of winter, end of winter, perhaps as winter tyres are fitted and removed if used and just after extreme hot summer weather spell). https://www.streetwizeaccessories.com/files//85150602-97e8-408f-89b9-a7bb00f5afc6/SWCG Manual.pdf SWCG Manual.pdf

Bugger that for car-farting-about in foul weather, I'd just listen to FM, or long wave if I felt nostalgic - AM for whistles and fading, makes Gold sound more authentic for those that like vinyl scratches and jumps. 😄 Perhaps done when listening to a bit of Queen, I'm in love with my car. 😄

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Have a look at your Owner's Manual for advice on charging the battery and use an appropriate battery charger (+ maintainer). Car batteries are probably the most oversold car part, RAC will sell you one if you've got a flat tyre! - BUT - many driver's now so use, abuse and neglect the car's battery and it is so important to modern cars that often the best remedy is just to replace even if it's premature for the battery. I've revived a few "dead" car batteries but in the same way people tell you "the battery is good" when it isn't also a "dead" battery may be only dying and might be saverable. Main problem is that it usually involves two things many people don't have one or both of - time and patience. I put a charger maintainer on to the 18-month old AGM of my wife's 2015 Fabia Mk3 in December as a preventative measure, no signs (or warnings) what so ever that the battery was at all low from the car, it took 17 hours to fully recharge it (on the car, outside, at -3.5c at one point, 12v winter setting* - *usually used at ambient +5c and below, but check specs). I used the Ring RSC804 4 amp (that's all you need, up to 90Ah) Battery Charger & Maintainer, £23.49 - other chargers at other prices available.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. 20+ years ago I bought a portable stereo (two attached speakers) DAB radio because the mains only single speaker stereo (plug in add on Aux Speaker) DAB needed a nearby electric socket or extension reel, second radio needed IIRC six 'C' cell batteries, volume set to halfway the batteries lasted 45 minutes - DAB was very power hungry, it might still be, which would relate to battery power consumption. My 1986 (back when all 'The Sun' readers in the UK took the **** out of Skoda) Estelle had the aerial in the heated rear window and that interfered with the radio when switched on (forget if AM or FM or both). Perhaps it is something to do with the radio then and you need someone like @varooom or @pab567 to say if this is a known fault and the remedy, putting the @ in front of their handles(?) gives them a "shout out" as I believe young people might (still?) say. PS - regardless now is a good time to check your car battery - and I've a third newer DAB portable radio, no where near as good sound quality because of the plastic case instead of veneer cabinet of the other two despite still costing a bit of an arm & leg (six 'C' cell). Is varooom here yet(?).

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Just been out to check, engine off, DAB radio on, sidelights on to see illuminated switches, heated rear screen on, plus I noticed the heated door mirrors setting had been left on (that's tomorrow's first discussion when we get in the car sorted). DAB radio worked fine, no difference when I turned the heated door mirrors or rear screen off. Have you checked the charge in your car battery with an appropriate battery tester tool or multimeter a couple of hours after the car was parked up? (ETA: no radio pic on your post that I can see but don't worry about that for now.)

three buttons, each side or four? hold on I'll go out and try my wife's car (without engine running, I only put the smart battery + maintainer on the other week so I know the battery (should) be good.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Hi, welcome. Is the vehicle fully factory standard or have any items been changed or added? Which "radio" is it? Could it just be "atmospherics" at the moment causing or contributing to the problem? That's me out of ideas (for now(?)).

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Typical oil companies, fancy tricking a honourable company like VAG and bringing the German engineering quality into the slightest possible area of doubt by sneaking sulphur into gear oil without informing them of its presence, no wonder it took 12 years to discover and no wonder VAG insist on the way they specify the oils for their vehicles. Tut, :shakeshead:. Well I've never seen such libel, that ECU Testing suggestion that they'll replace VAG components parts with their own re-engineered solutions with an unlimited mileage lifetime warranty because VAG new replacement part will be the same as the one that broke and one get 12 months on it. Tut, :shakeshead:. VAG Messatronics, that's the word I couldn't think of. 😁 It takes a long time to lose a bad reputation but much longer to lose an underserved good reputation especially when you throw in customers' brand loyalty with perhaps added marque snobbery and customer ego, (some Skoda even) VW, Audi, SEAT(?), Porsche, Bentley (perhaps even Lambo for those that can't really afford them), BMW, Mercedes. Seems to be a grouping and sub-grouping but I can't think of how. BMW and Merc owners of old particularly told all how good their vehicles were kinda help keep the resales value up when they wanted to sell them. I well remember a local BMW owner that had loads of engine problems changing his 5 year old BMW for a 10 year old Lexus as a stop-gap and couldn't believe how good it was so was then prepared to say how poorly the BMW compared against it. 😄 Most brands have lots of faults (some more than others) but you'd never know it from the reputation (most) manufactures and many vehicle owners give them or defend them. I don't worry about putting this and scaring the OP, RickW an A40 owner (show or race?) but some might be new news to NeilMH(?). I well remember when someone in our club brought the Audi TT when it first came out, a voyage of discovery for him and Audi he only saw his car for a matter of weeks for the first 18 months while they tried to sort out the model, he insisted on his courtesy car being a TT which caused the Dealership all sorts of problems each time the sold car went back to Audi but the ground rules had been set at the very beginning so were more difficult for the Dealership to wriggle out all the subsequent times, new Audi owners often held more "prestigious positions" back in them days and knew all the long words to get what they wanted. 🤣

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Personally if I was keeping the car I would change the oil at 8 or 10 years or perhaps 12 years but not never. VW have already had to change their minds on what oil and software is needed and oil and its additives don't last forever. And what sort of 'synthetic' oil is better replaced with 'mineral' how badly wrong did the 'German engineering quality' engineers, designers, suppliers, manufacturers, management get this gearbox, software and oil specification and why. I used to do thorough oil changes, and use better oils, on gearboxes and axles (on very old cars) as a matter of prevention and improvement rather than absolute need because the change had been left too late, this despite for decades being told I was wasting my time and money, particular by engineers. I don't want things just working I prefer that they work well and much more importantly that they work reliably and don't require any work at inconvenient times. I've had enough of that to last me three lifetimes. Different gearbox entirely I know but I changed the oil of the 5-speed manual gearbox on my wife's 2015 Fabia at about 5.5 years old and 38k-miles because the weather was OK, my back wasn't playing up at the time (thanks VW stupid wheel bolts instead of studs) and the oil was on special half price offer at the time. My wife said she could notice a difference, placebo perhaps but it certainly wasn't just to please or agree with me as we've been together far too many decades for that sort of falsity over lumps of metal.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Might be a waste of very little time time and very little materials but if you have the door panel off already put the straw on the can of WD40 and give the microswitch, as much as you can, a bloody good spray of WD-40 (GT85 would be better but work with what you've got). Might do sweet FA but so little to lose to try. Might be best done with car battery disconnected, if so you might as well also with the battery disconnected put the ignition on and press hard and hold the brake pedal down for a few seconds to drain those nasty computers, don't forget to switch off and remove key from ignition after. Again if it does FA to help directly to this actual issue it's only took seconds and next to no effort. As key workers I'd suggest three cans of GT85 (tenner at Wilco for three), a can in car(s) and home, use the WD-40 to help preserve garden tools. - https://gt85.co.uk/

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. If you've got the semi-automatic climatic system have you checked the blower knob set to 4 to see if it's the apparently common falling resistor green thing rather than the motor. I've no idea about wiring diagrams but as I think I've mentioned before don't rely too heavily on the fuse box info given by VWSkoda in their Owner's Manuals, perhaps the info in yours is spot on but they're not always, German engineering quality this century isn't the same as the previous century. Also no doubt whether semi or fully automatic there'll be a load of complicated conditions and procedures to the operation so I'd consult the handbook to make sure they're all met for the fan to operate before putting in any manual effort other than turning paper pages or scrolling virtual pages. I saw something about the fan speed reducing if reversing (to stop exhaust fumes being suck into the cabin(?)) I don't know if that's only if you have a window down but what about the manual hand-cranked rear windows(?), I've not tried with my wife's car but VW seem to have gone out of their way to make the computer programs complicated, intrusive and intertwined, handy if you want to hide cheats. 😄

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I'm with varooom, more photos would help, from further back and close up, if others have been there before and parts are damaged things may not be as 'book' or factory. I couldn't follow which screws were being referred to in varooom's attachment (but I'm not always quickest to catch on).

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Just in case I've caused any misunderstanding, or as often happens I've not made myself clear, I'm not suggesting an inexpensive worn out part shouldn't be changed but just to make sure the right and best one is fitted as a replacement. On a car of this age unless I'd owned it from new I'd not just assume the part fitted is original or best suited - but it could be one or both, I'd just check. I've had lots of expensive and very annoying work from inexpensive parts, and just because a part fits and works doesn't mean it's working as well as it could or should, as in the present MAF sensor. And I'm certainly not against changing an inexpensive part to save hassle and getting dirtier than I need to but I'd want fit and forget, the part to be fully working as it should removing hassle not contributing hassle by giving wobbly info for the computer programs to play around. 🙂

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Always check your car battery is not low in charge as this can cause problems and can hinder sorting electrical problems, if you have a multimeter you can check the battery (an hour or two after the car has ben parked) if you have a suitable smart charger you charge the battery on the car, it can take a lot longer than many think to fully recharge a battery, a smart charger will go into maintenance mode once fully charged so you can leave it fitted as long as you can, could be overnight, could be longer. After you have sorted your fan/switch, the cabin filter is dirty whatever material it is, very dirty if it's supposed to be white, the wipers if not as varooom has put could be a few other things and perhaps the switch. Airbag light if for passenger may be as it should be if it's like the one on my wife's 2015 Fabia Mk3 in that it stays on for quite a while after driving off. If you don't have your paper printed copy you can download a pdf copy of the Owner's Manual, from the following link, which should give you lots of information on warning lights (but fuse diagram might still be wrong). - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Good luck, you're doing well already.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Shortish journeys driven gently and mostly dual carriageway may be good for fuel economy but it won't be a blowout or higher temperature run. Good and interesting A, B and unclassified roads where you can use more of the gears and rev range would be better, isn't that what the VRS badge is about. Unless the factory fitted MAF sensor has with time been found not to be the best I'd match [ETA: the new sensor to factory] exactly (even if it's Bosch but I'd see if the label lifts off) I'd not buy a 'matching' or 'compatible' alternative even if it's the same label as fitted now. If the MAF is easy to photo I'd do that and check that it's factory original and check back here for advice if necessary. Good luck.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. You'd do better to get a can of GT85 and use the can of WD40 to coat garden tools. GT85 is better, I've used it on fans and other motors in house and cars. - https://gt85.co.uk/ If you can brush or blow or vacuum away and dust/debris in the area first all the better. ****-poor fuse box information seems to be regular thing on the VWSkoda models and there can be more than one possible fuse number/location so read through the whole list for possibilities. Best not to just do a visual check on a fuse but a check with a multimeter or swapping out with know working fuse of the same type and amperage. What are the two items below for?