Former

Perhaps others members could chime in (post) with other, different, ideas, knowledge (training) and experience and ways of putting things.

How warm is this and how long did it take to get this warm? This is more detailed information than I have noticed before. sounds like you might be running the carb over rich for fuel. Have you noticed the colour of what comes out of the exhaust tail pipe when or just before this happens in your rear view mirror? Are you sure the automatic choke flap is fully open at these times? No it is not the carb ices up, the idle make seem good but that is perhaps an assumption on your part, what checks have you made to confirm this? The acceleration from idle may be fine but it's not after 15 minutes of driving. You may be setting up with the idle but you do not drive the car at idle. A fuel mixture that is rich can sound and feel better at idle and when driving but it is not good for fuel economy and potentially for the engine and a set up that is too rich will cause more issues sooner. Up to you what you do of course making assumptions is not the same as checking, you have altered the valves so the running will be different from before, you also need to check and adjust as required, or replace worn or faulty items as required, points, plugs, timing and mixture again, in that order. I cannot remember, was old petrol drained from the tank or fully used up by now and new fresh petrol in the tank? If you are still on old fuel left in the tank from the car sitting around a long time do you know if any fuel stabiliser was added to the tank to allow for the period of the car sitting unused? Given you have a fuel problem I would empty out any previous fuel, easier done with an electric fuel pumps that mechanical, then fresh petrol in the tank with proportional amount of petrol system cleaner in. With the fresh petrol fuel and petrol system cleaner if possible drive off about 5 litres of petrol in one drive and then do all the ignition and mixture set up checks and possible adjustments. If the car cannot be driven to use up the about 5 litres then the ignition and mixture set up checks and possible adjustments will have to be made before driving off the fresh fuel. Cars that sit around and are not driven far enough each time and frequently enough get problems and issues from all the lack of use for the whole car not just the engine. With an old car new to you you need to drive it to find its issues and problems to be able to sort them out. Many/some of these issues can be prevented by a staggered, between driving the car, full and proper service, checks at least, of the whole car (not just engine) equivalent to a 60, 120,000 km service or 5, 10 years. Your car is 28 years old when do you think it last had a 5, 10 year service, perhaps 23, 18 years perhaps never, when did it have a 1, 2, 3 year service. Old cars that look good are not necessarily good runners or in good mechanical or electrical condition, your engine bay looks very good but the engine has a running problem, hopefully fairly easily sorted, there looks to be plenty of good potential.

I don't know your car history but welcome to a very recent modern car and all its 'great' features to 'enjoy' and one from a German marque who love to over complicate things to be "clever". Regardless you will be dealing with the British motor trade and at Dealership level. But you know all this now. For clearing all the error codes on your car that cause or might just be showing at time of problems, whoever does this can save a 'Report' or record which can be very detailed indeed, this can be saved on the scan tool and sent to you as a customer either as a list of the error codes which might be a short or shortish list or as a much more detailed tyre of "printout" which will be very long showing lots and lots of detail. A good garage or mechanic might offer you the list of error codes that are present before he starts/started the work, this list might include old error codes that have been dealt with but someone has been unable or too lazy (usual in motor trade) to delete. If selling a car yes someone could delete all the stored error codes but as a buyer you could also get those that haven't been deleted. As the AA of they have the list of error codes they can send to you to show the Dealership, it should include your VIN and time details to prove its for your car and when. I don't know if they keep the details or not but there's potential the "nice man" might have it on his machine if not left too long. For your other faults, video them, every time, and present them to the Dealership, with evidence they can't deny them. Also have a look at Briskoda, search for the issues, a Google search usually bring you back the threads and posts in Briskoda. Usually the type of issues you mention won't be restricted to just a 2023 Fabia Mk4 (or just VWs Škoda brand) you will see if and how other members dealt with the issues and perhaps Dealership. You must know how glitchy computer electronics can be well modern cars and the German marques particularly have been playing with them for decades and now they are very complex and intertwined, the newer the car the more so and if you think or believe the old marketing about German (car) engineering quality then you are decades behind. Take the gear changes suggestions with a pinch of salt even when the systems are fully working correctly as if you know how to drive properly and experience you will know they're not best for the engine and not even mpg. You have a 3-cylinder, 110 PS engine in a modern big heavy car if you don't give it some proper runs you will regret it sooner or later particularly if you are keeping the car long term. If so the VWŠkoda "service" and "maintenance" schedules are very thin particularly if the car is lower mileage, short journey use. As you can guess unusually here I am not a VW fan and have found there 4-cylinder and larger capacity engines petrol engines to sound rough so losing a cylinder and smaller capacity won't help, that's not to say they are bad engines, just that I've has 3-cylinder much lower capacity engine'd cars that had much sweeter engines (one was even a German make). Some advice, do not let you car 12v battery get too low in charge from lack of driving the car or too many short journeys and/or high use of electric items in the car as if the battery get too low it can throw up all sorts of unexpected warning messages and lights, and unseen error codes, Too low can still have the lights seeming bright enough and the engine will still start even when the battery is far too low but by this time you've really abused the battery and it will take a lot more to recover if it ever fully does. VWŠkoda I think say replace the expensive battery at 4 years, some don't get that far, but with the preventative use of an appropriate battery charger maintainer you should get many more trouble-free years of life out of the battery and reliability no extra warning lights and messages on top of the ones the computers put up from other stuff. Also, you may already do this but read and refer to the car's 'Owner's Manual' as this can save you hassle, time and money, avoid visits to the Dealership, garages, mechanics, auto-electricians. Yours may be the annoying virtual version that seems like some AI or non-English speaking engineering student has throw together but much information is still there, well as much as VW allow. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models HTH a bit.

That's far too frequent for me now! Lights, windows, mirrors and numberplates when required, the rest I leave to the rain.

Always start with the gentlest solution or polish and certainly chemical first, if you get any result then repeat the application and see if more comes off, if so repeat and so on, if not move up a level from gentlest. Sometimes you can get so far with removal and be sealing in the remainder (depending on what you use). You could have a look in and/or post in the Styling and Car Care forum where polishing lads and lasses frequent. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/8-styling-and-car-care/

Schoolboy and pro error not checking , rechecking and cross referencing the basics and the work you have done on the car any items nearby or related to your work - i.e. unintentionally buggering something else up with your nearby or related to your work, or not doing something right or leaving something off, etc., we've all done it. With the x431 can you go into and look at the data on the steering angle sensor and end stops, live data perhaps see if anything is missing or some sort of coding required directly. Your Report list is beyond my very limited understanding but other than a few odd codes they all seem related and communication, you might trace back to a common point with a wiring diagram. You might be better looking at and/or asking on the Diagnostics & VCDS forums and see if the coding experts or those scan tool and/or OBDEleven knowledge are there to see your post or thread there. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/23-diagnostics-amp-vcds/ What's the missing licence number about, are software version V28.50 and app version V1.00.0004 both fully up to date? Is the X431 a genuine or a clone do you know? General data codes, one for VW go for ever. - https://www.klavkarr.com/data-trouble-code-obd2.php

Are you sure the warm air is getting to the carb, or that icing is the problem. Even if the air is warmed there can be too much humidity. Are you starting the car in a garage with mats or old carpeting on the floor or lots of cloths, clothing, anything that holds a lot of damp. As an experiment you could try heating the petrol in the tank and perhaps temporarily insulate the fuel line so it arrives at the carb above air temperature as the fuel delivery of the carbs cools the petrol, obvious take care how you heat a petrol tank. As a second stage of the experiment you could then move on to insulating or warming the carb again obvious take care with something that is putting petrol out. Or you could pre-heat items before trying to start the car. Once the car is started the heat build up from the engine should also help with warming the carb but icing can still happen. More details are required, what is happening when, details from starting the car, what situation the car is in, what happens after start, how long after start, and so on. And yes I saw you put "It idles well now and also passed emissions with 0.2.. % CO" which shows that passing a test does not mean the car goes as well as it could or should, it is the same when somebody says that the car passed an annual MoT test.

Taken from a D.FYLAKTOS post.

Just to confirm, after correcting the valve clearances and before adjusting the carb did you check, adjust or replace, as required, the distributor contact breaker points, the spark plugs and the engine timing? You can get this with carbs. Modern petrol with ethanol does not make things better, in UK E10 is up to 0% ethanol and higher octane petrol, which usually also has higher cleaning additive package, is up to 5% many UK old car owners choose to run on the more expensive at the pump E5 petrol. As I put before you can get fuel additives which protect against the ethanol corrasion with E5 and E10 petrol. You would need to check that the air intake flap is operating correctly and that the ducting from the exhaust manifold also operates correctly. D.FYLAKTOS done lots of posts on the air box and intake flap control which he could advise you on if required.

This is what I say about databases and information and the need to check, double check and cross reference particularly compatibility and superseded lists, Many eBay sellers use lists that they may pick up from others and there will be errors and omissions. Same for car parts manufacturers databases, lists As websites can carry so much information errors seem to have increased because the databases and lists are so large now it costs too much in time, effort and money to correct them even if they are pointed out by customer who get the wrong part sent to them.

No, no it was a hire car anything needed like that and the car would be back to them and replaced, It was a 2023 VW SEAT and sat high enough that I could see the pipe hanging from the underside a good few inches and easy to get at using a flexible bit of copper cable or metal wire I have hanging in the shed.

I noticed that too but forgot about it, you posted. I noticed it because last year my wife had a hire car for a few weeks, it was about a year old, obviously it got cleaned frequently but the cleaners never opened the fuel flap as there was lots of debris there and blocking the hole. I cleared the hole and drain pipe by putting a stiff piece of wire up from the bottom of the drain tube under the car up, that way the muck is pushed up and out of the hole on the shortest path and not compacting it. I made sure the end of wire wasn't sharp so that it wouldn't put a hole in what looked like black rubber drain hose hanging under the car. With the hole open I poured hot water down the drain tube using a small funnel to direct it. I put hot water down until I saw it was at full flow coming out of the bottom. IIRC on cleaning the outside of the hose I found it was actually clear plastic tube.

We all make mistakes, I was reluctant to mention disconnecting the battery as it was after the event it was more for the future work. Only today I reminded my wife to switch off the switch on a shed "13-amp" wall socket even though nothing was plugged into it so that it wasn't live when something was plugged into it, only to be told she'd left it as she found it and I was the last one to use it, two mistakes I made there. 😄 Good info for other members with that unit Something that can save virtual ink and page space, with eBay item you get rid of the hyperlink route and greatly shorten the link to the end of the item (itm) number. - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/126649070188

Hi, Tony welcome. The following may sound at strange idea but it can work. If you have any custom exhaust places near you, the ones where those with modified cars go for huge blink noisy, then they might be able to do the work for a fraction of what the "high street" names, like ATS and Kwik Fit, charge and being specialist they are often very highly skilled in their work and used to using better quality materials to higher standards, that doesn't always mean high prices and simple fit in work is often appreciated for a change, training and pauing overheads. Same for if you have a sports specialist, or perhaps modified/ sports place that specialises in VW / VAG brands. If you get somewhere decent they might even tell you if your car might again pass with just advisories for this. I know good places and people are hard to find, no, really believe me, I really know, but some do still exist. Good luck.

Wow, I mean wow, I'm really surprised to read such stuff on a site and forum like this, and a couple wows as it's coming from a qualified engineer (and one that only believes in factory parts). If this was with driving on the road the car sounds like it is unroadworthy and bad that someone so knowledgeable should be putting other road users at risk. You would be the first to moan about anyone else taking tyre pressures well below car manufactures recommended parameters and doing this just to compensate for faulty rear suspension. I hope that means you have finally taken the car off the road and stopped using it until it is fully repaired and sorted. Or was that post just a wind up?

So it this a project engine swap or car, rather than just a change of engine for need or want? Others will know better than I and it depends which bike carbs but they be more suitable to fast road use rather than everyday normal road driving. Getting a steady consistent tractable engine with multiple bike carbs for normal or fast road use may involve other changes to engine and engine running.

If you want to know if your car revving seems different to normal then put up a video (shoot in landscape and not portrait as you generally get more info into the shot) and then it can be seen how fast or slow or not your car is to others. Just out of curiosity I tried revving my wife's factory standard 2015 1.2 TSI whilst in neutral and after the usual computer hesitation it revved freely and quickly, I only went up to about 3,500 so I guess the limiter might be at 4,000 (I thought it was 3,000), there was the expected drop speed in revs and soft landing to idle or higher idle. Things were as I would expect from a modern car and accelerator controlled by electric wires and connections, electronics and computer, a bit different to the old full mechanical system. A 2022 car possibly still in or not long out of warranty seems unusual for someone young or new(-ish) to driving or modifying, you might not be any of theses, and different people have different circumstances, but to me you seem like you might might be young so probably don't want to read the following or will dismiss it. Just fitting an induction system may not in itself add any performance gain and might actually reduce performance from factory standard and mess with the computer's set ups. If you are young you probably think all us old farts here were never young and did the things you've done and want to do but we probably did and didn't learn from our mistakes first time (or ever perhaps) but over the decades we did build experience and perhaps some knowledge (for those that can remember). As you didn't responded to my first post I'm not sure if you seen it but I did put a link to another forum on this site where you may find stuff more favourable to you, probably get the same answers but in a way and language you might prefer. If you are young and/or new-ish to driving or modifying your car if you wanted I could link you to previous posts or threads (if I can find them) giving general advice to lads wanting to improve/modify their cars.

How do those prices compare to Skoda. When I twice replaced the a rear light unit on my wife's 2015 car the aftermarket units were not as well made as the VW ones. To my surprise the second unit was the same manufacturer as the first but in the intervening years the quality had dropped so further still for the factory original I would have been better I think risking a s/h unit off eBay that would be the way I would go now, no decent scrappies here to go directly to.

@Santisilver perhaps you already done the following but I was thinking, after the event I know, about pulling a fuse before disconnecting the factory unit and reconnecting the Chinese but your issue might prove the old basic thing of disconnect the battery as the VW computer programs and systems are so (over) complex and intertwined. Getting cheap Chinese stuff is a gamble they do of course make some excellently made stuff, but whilst price isn't always a good indication the lower priced end and quality and quality control may be more hit and miss. As you put before you reporting back will hopefully help others.

ETA: Apologises, I missed this was your first post until it was pointed out - hi, welcome. I read it as revs very slow rather than very low and the neutral rev limiter isn't that very low unless it's different on later models. You have lost me, perhaps others will understand more, it revs very slowly in neutral, what are you trying to do, track style driving on the road. Unless your car has a fault there's more to quicker pick up than a lighten flywheel. Without further details being made available by you my quick thoughts are, there might be an issue with your car depending on what you actually mean, you want the 'Fabia Projects' forum for more like-minded members - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/205-fabia-projects/ you want a DSG (automatic) gearbox model last one, you won't like and I'm not being derogatory to you or others, best tuning aid after full and proper whole car servicing, maintenance and repair is further driver training (preferably road based). HTH.

Skoda might be a good price when you check things out, or as you only want one perhaps go second hand on eBay or local breakers/recycling centres.

I hope it added value, for you at least. Someone's signature, or photo, or photo with them now "selfie", means nothing to me personally as we are all human I respect more people in the fire service, police, ambulance, nurses, doctors, those that keep the sewers clear, I wouldn't cross the road to meet anyone famous as I don't see the point - if they want to meet or talk to me they can cross the road. About 20 years ago we had a chap in the club that built big American race engines and he also built up his own Cobra replicas with custom made frames and body, one was at a show and and Shelby signed it, and as you probably know he would only do that if the car meet his standards. I'm sure the Cobras he ran with methanol or something as my eyes would sting if I was behind one on the open road. 7l Chevvy (not Ford) engines IIRC. One time we had the four-seater Cobra on our stand that he made, a rear removable panel normally covered the rear high set "occasional" seats, anyone sat in them would be more hurricane swept than wind swept.

I've seen some of his other videos, not very scientific but he never claims to be, this video I had to turn the audio volume right down and put playback speed to 0.75 to able to listen. For DIY occasional use whether a unit takes 2, 4 or 6 seconds to load doesn't really matter, response to button pushes is important though and what actually works and doesn't is important but at this level of Chinese manufacture they might not be consistence so another example of the same model might work better or worse than the one he tried but he can't try 10, 20, 50 or a 100 of each.

No around 12v is low for battery state of charge (state of health has another meaning so we'll stick with charge here). If you mean you didn't turn the ignition then yes that is the way to take the reading and as many hours after the engine has been run as possible. Now your 12.2v reading could be good if say 0.2v can be added to allow for all the car systems doing their stuff even when the car is parked up, 12.2v + 0.2v = 12.4 v a good voltage for the VW battery program for fuel and emissions (show). But 12.2v is lower and needs charging with use of car or better still recharging to full with charger to give greater margin. You live in Sweden you have a 10 year old VW I personally suggest you get an appropriate battery charger maintainer or just keep an eye on your battery and replace it as required (it could have a much longer and more reliable life by using a charger occasionally or when required but prevention is better than cure. If you have a newer VAG 2017, 2019 and gawd help you 2023/4/5 you will have greater need of a charger or more frequent of a charger or more frequent changes of battery. If nothing else remember if the start/stop isn't working when it should usually that is the first sign your battery needs charging (by driving or charger) potentially the longer you leave it or ignore it the greater the need might become, you can only use and abuse the battery so much for so long. Also bear in mind with a 12 year old car the battery and alternator are a pair is one is weak it weakens the other and when older they take more work less well (in general terms). Putting a battery charger maintainer on is one of the few jobs on a car where it's easy and quick clean hands where you can leave it to sort itself while you go off and do anything you like and most things are a lot better than farting about with a car, to me cars are for driving and all else is a PITA to lesser or greater degrees. Let us know if it's sorted and if you can get more info about it great. If you are living in Sweden and not picked up the language enough to get by you are rather proving the stereotype of the English.

Apart from when in sunlight perhaps, like all these "smart" (they are not) phones and other devices, you take a photo with the phone and you can't review it in daylight, marvellous! Don't get me wrong I'm not a Luddite just had decades of these things and their flaws, one time I used to point the modern marvel machine to sky waiting for it to find 5 satellites like some pagan at Stonehenge, then give up and get the road atlas and map in the good beer guide, those were the days 😆