nta16

https://www.willtheyfit.com/

Whatever colour covering that wire has all other earth wires (that are covered and not just uncovered) should be the same, subject to them being original wiring from factory. With vehicles that are decades old there is always possibilities of factory wiring to have been messed about with and/or additional wiring added which may not confirm to factory colours or layout. Having put that you need a wiring diagram, obviously it is best to be for your model and year of vehicle with whatever changes or factory deviations or extras that were available and for your sales region. Others will know what diagrams are available and where you might access or buy them from. Also note errors and omissions seem to be on most/all databases even from factory/manufacturer but by now others would know of any common errors or omissions. Example on later VWŠkoda models the fuse box diagrams in the VWŠkoda Owner's Manuals may have errors. Also never assume just because a part is new that it can't have a faulty and not be working properly or fully just because it works and that the previous part was fitted correctly just because it worked previously, always check and where possible test parts before fitting and check the existing fitting arrangement is correct. I've know owners who have had and used vehicles for decades, not just years, and not know that something is fitted wrong (or differently) or operating something wrongly because it's fitted wrongly and these were very capable people knowing a lot more than me but they were only used to their own example of the vehicle and hadn't fully consulted other points of reference information. I'm not an expert in anything, certainty not a mechanic or electrician but until a couple of years ago I ran various (British) "classics" (old over-priced and over-valued) carsas dailies, for work, commuting, holidays and club events for 30+ years so I have some experience. And others here run or own Felicas so have lots of actual real world experience of the model.

Good work on finding this but sorry about the result. I wonder if the under warranty replacement of a parts was just easier and more profitable under warranty for the garage(s) than a simple clean to resolve, and of course prevention of it happening again, the basic all connections and wires clean, secure and protected. GT85 also drives out moisture - note when I emailed the owners of GT85, used to be British but now owned by a large invasive American Corporation called WD-40 Company, they replied that GT85 hadn't been tested but WD-40 had, but I've used it on electrics and someone else with a car YT channel that I put on to GT85 has used it without issue. Anyway cleaning and protecting the fuse box may be all that's required, or it may also need simple repair. Or of course it may need more complex repair or replacement obviously I don't know. Any spraying of electrics is best done with battery disconnected, which you'd have to do to remove box for repair or replacement anyway. On disconnecting the battery I also like to drain the disconnected circuits to mini-reset as much as possible the computers as I see that as a bit of electronic cleaning too but perhaps that's just me as I feel the computers need a good booting. 😁 If it's the fusebox it's pretty poor show on VW's part, I wonder if there have been enough customer/garages reports of this for VW to have in-house technical sheet on it, not that VW would tell you anyway but some on here seem to have access to, or find, such stuff. Good luck, keep letting us know how you get on.

Apologies that does play, Daft ones, clutching at straws, did you change the key battery and/or synchronise the remote/keyblade? Is your car KESSY less? Intermittent problems are even more of a PITA, sounds like you put keyblade into ignition barrel/switch, have checked its connections and wires? Tried using the other remote/keyblade? Always better to ask and/or do something twice than not ask and not do something or check it again. Sometimes a second pair of eyes (ears, nose, hands, brain) with you at the time can help (and sometimes not) with something you might miss.

"Coming to a road near you." - they drive among us - lets hope not. :yikes:

Wire terminals (what connects the wire to the unit/instrument) possibly "spade" connector of some sort on to a male connector "blade" or perhaps visa-versa sometimes on some stuff. All connectors, terminals, wires need to be clean, secure and protected - a loose or dirty connector can be enough to cause thing to be intermittent or faulty or not working, same for earth connectors. These are basic checks required by driver to highest level of specialist professional, sometimes even high level specialist with very sexy and expensive tools end up wiggling wires and connectors to check for faulty wires and connections. Easiest to to take a connector off, this can check it security of mounting, visually check it's clean or just spray with electrical spray cleaner to be sure anyway and perhaps use a multimeter to test supply /wiring readings to compare with what is expected and work back/forward from there. The fuel gauge arrangement is certainly more complicated than I expected but the basics of checking remain the same, check, double check, cross-check, record, check all, be methodical work back or forward on each connector/wire as required. I only know the very basics but others here know lots more. Good luck.

Those files never work on my PC they just show an empty jpg symbol! You don't necessarily need a VagCom /VCDS others scan tools that cover your model and year at an appropriate level can do nearly or as much but if you have access to a VagCom/VCDS then fine. Whatever scan tool do make sure that the program for your model and year is fully up to date, those that don't know or lazy mechanics/auto-electricians do always bother and it can make a difference to results. I've no idea if there's any pre or fully priming at whatever point but I do have something when I put the ignition on, I'm just grateful the bloody car starts and hope I don't hear to many suspension and engine noises and the computers don't decide to throw up the "amber triangle of doom" on the dash or worse, actually I'm just grateful the remote keyfob actually opens the doors, I'd sooner us the keyblade in the lock personally but then the alarm goes off (well usually but it didn't once and I can't work out why that was. Let's hope you don't have to go through wire wiggle tests when it's cold. Other makes and VW in Sweden and Australia and you'd just get it sorted under the country's procedure or warranty but of course this is the UK and you've had the nerve to have a car at about 5 years old. Cheaper car manufacturers product get 7 years warranty even in the UK. German "quality" t'er. I hope you get this sorted, let us know how you get on, there but the grace of luck go other VW owners.

The auto-electrician should have been able to do the same and more than your brother's mate, unfortunately I'm not surprised at a poor experience with a auto-electrician (or electrician). German engineering quality hasn't been as good this century/millennium as the last century/millennium, VW seem to use some lower quality and longevity parts. On my wife's car I wasn't impressed with "battery management" Recall, the front dampers needing replacement at 6 years / 41k-miles and the replacements "misting" within 11 months of fitment, various clunks on suspension, expensive remote keyfob failing, perhaps also factory brake discs and pads life. Not disastrous but disappointing when compared with other car manufactures and some supposedly "cheaper made" of better quality let alone very older cars.

If buying a sensor get genuine stuff, VW part numbers on many parts, as a general rule Japanese is better than German or others (often from China) and VW or Tosch maybe Japanese once out of the box. Tosch superseded part or multi-fit park might (or might not) be alright but check with other 2009 Fabia Mk2 owners. Replacing the part is only better than chasing diagnostics if it is the part at fault. Good luck.

Hi, welcome. is your OBDEleven program for your model and year of VW fully updated? Do bear in mind generic codes or other error codes can point you in the direction rather than always finding the culprit. are you sure 8 ohms is fine, have you done wiggle, heat/cold tests, looked at live data? - https://club.autodoc.co.uk/obd-codes/p0135 You may find more information by look at or posting on the Fabia and/or Fabia Mk1 forums. - 'Škoda Fabia' (forums). - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/166-škoda-fabia/

Working fine for me - but I don't use "smart" devides. Try using the hyperlink I put in my post or any of the following hyperlinks below or 'Home' top left of this page. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/ 'Skoda Yeti' forum - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/151-skoda-yeti/ 'Skoda Yeti Guides' - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/176-skoda-yeti-guides/ HTH.

You should do what's appropriate to your vehicle, I don't know Felicias (others here know them very well) just that on other older cars the gauge, depending on how it's wired can shows full or empty (or full) if the earth connection is broken or poor. A wiring diagram will show if the gauge/sender is earthed or you should see the earth wire/connection. You can disconnect this or piggy-back its connection to a direct connection to the battery earth and if the gauge needle moves you know the earth is poor or missing (subject to having sufficient fuel in the fuel tank). Some items don't have earth wire wire connection but earth through the items body being connected to the car's body/chassis which is the earth but I have no idea if this applies to your sender/guauge.

Hi, welcome Dave. You might find more traffic and answers by looking at and if required asking on the 'Škoda Yeti' section of the site and its forums. Good luck. 'Škoda Yeti' - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/170-škoda-yeti/

Battery and how it's checked is always my first thought on electirical and/or engine starting issues. Also forgot the GT85 details. - https://gt85.co.uk/

Did you try the clean fresh new temporary earth lead directly from the the battery negative to gauge and/or sender?

Just to add to above, forget WD-40 GT85 is better all round but cleaning lubricating electrics with sprays is best done with battery disconnected, all battery disconnect and reconnect instructions are in the car's Owner's Manual. Time of day clock is generally the only thing tht needs resting if you switch off all electrics and fully close windows/roof before disconnecting. Disconnection of the battery also means you can check the battery terminal clamp are/were tight and inside (and outside) of clamp connectors and battery terminal are fully clean, also check main cables, wire, earths are all clean, secure and protected. Ignition barrel/switch and their connections were a second thought of mine (after battery and its connections). If you haven't got the paper printed copy free VWŠKoda pdf versions are available from the following VWŠkoda site. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models You may need more than a code reader, an appropriate level VW scan tool may be required, do ensure its program for your model and year of VW model and year on the scan tool is fully up to date before using the scan tool or you can get errors with what the scan tool tells you. Let us know how you get on.

I can't remember if the lights and/or switch were entry or exist points but there are a couple (IIRC) threads about rust in that/those areas on the Fabia MK3 forum, you could do a search on this forum or just Google that will bring you back to forum posts/threads. Good luck, let us know how you get on (obviously I have even more interest than usual given the age and type of Fabia). cheers.

Unfortunately I don't think those members using phones see the nameplate thingy anyway but don't know for sure as I don't use (so-called) "smart" phone or other "smart" devices that connect to t'web. I'm not a Luddite just that I got sick of mobile phones in late 1980s and in 1990s and Twa*Nats a bit later, they all improved and then went not so-good again and a lot worse in many ways, reception problem, screens you can't view in daylight (particularly bright days), - progress. 😆

The following (assuming you have images/photos? switch on to view.) -

If you are going the LED route then do check you buy from a good reliable source and check with them what is required for VW cars, one such source I can recommend is Classic Car LEDS Ltd. (21w incandescent bulbs are "classic" technology). - https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/ This is yet another example of German engineering quality of the 21st century, had the same with my wife's 2015 Fabia car so I just turned of the DRL lights off via the Infotainment menus (you can only do that if your 2018 car was first used before 1 March 2018) and my wife to turn the side lights on if wanted instead which also light up the rear sides lights which are very good on the 2015 Fabia. - https://www.gov.uk/guidance/mot-inspection-manual-for-private-passenger-and-light-commercial-vehicles/4-lamps-reflectors-and-electrical-equipment#section-4-2-1 If you go the LED route I'd be very interested to know how much a PITA it is to fit any ballast resistor as I loathe doing much on cars and particularly on my wife's VW. Cheers.

You could have a look, perhaps remove the numberplate lights and door switch/lock/latch as I think I've seen some get rust there, perhaps the door seal though I'd have thought that would cause a leak to inside boot area. You don't say if you have an estate or hatch or what year it is, and no details at all on your name plate thingy, such as an example only.-

From just what you've put i don't think a lot of your auto-electrician, sexy scan tools are very handy but they're not the only tools needed or can be used to check and diagnosis. Cleaning the throttle body isn't difficult but I would recommend using good quality specific throttle body cleaner and I would remove it from the car to do it properly, you might want to replace the o'ring seal and battery connections to do this and may have to use a scan tool to reset or put up with the car learning (if it does on your mum's model) but a physical sticky plate might not be the issue or only part of the issue. I'd be looking at multimeter testing and wiggle tests of wiring and connections (after checking all wires and connections on throttle body/sensor and pedal are all clean, secure and protected. First result on Goggle search . - https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/16150/ For proper diagnosis generally, not just relying on a scan tool, have a look here, there's a recent vid that applies loosely to your issue but I forget which and don't have the time to look now. - https://www.youtube.com/@mrautoservices7354

I prefer to check battery voltage (at terminals with a multimeter) as many hours as possible after the car has been run (allowing say 0.2-0.3v if the car is running stuff and computers doing their stuff) and when required to recharge the battery with a charger maintainer after reading the instructions in the car's Owner's Manual and for charger, I charge to full on the battery charger. Better to do a preventative (full) recharger with charger before the start/stop makes itself inactive when it would normally be active as the more often and longer the battery is below that level is chipping away at the overall useful life and its longevity. I always fully charge any new battery to 100%/"full" on a charger maintainer before fitting it to the car regardless of its type or going on to a VW car or not, that way I know the battery has the best start in its working life I can give it. Getting a battery as fresh as possible from manufactured production is a good idea but good sellers I think tend to have a good turnover of most batteries of most car batteries so good stock turnover. SwatCat, I personally would want to get your battery to about 10 years old with the simple, easy, clean-hands occasional, when required, use of an appropriate battery charger maintainer, it doing its work while the car is parked up unused while I doing anything other than farting about on a car.

I've been trying to promote the idea of preventative charging but some insist it's not required and the alternator can take care of things by itself, despite statistics and lots of info and users' experience often showing otherwise. I like to charge the battery to fully charged on the charger regardless of what VW have things det up for. VW had to changed the battery at previously 5 years and now I believe 4 years, personally I think this id wasting materials and continuing to make the car 12v battery one of, if not the, most oversold car part with it premature replacement. There's also the finical cost to the owner of the expensive battery and the 'coding'. I would hope to double VW's battery life expectance by the simple, easy, clean-hands very occasional when required preventative use of a battery charger maintainer when the car is parked up and not used and I can do any other than farting about with a car. The battery charge is not just about journey length it is also about the use of electric consumers on the car whilst driving and particular when the engine is not (thus alternator is not working) and when parked up. Some users/drivers use more electric than others meaning more battery power is used up. In Poland when it is cold I expect you take advantage of all the electric heating devises on the car and possibly the air conditioning then some may use added devices to the car in addition to what the car has available, the power for these has to come from somewhere. Bit like those not paying the electric bills at home leaving lights on (inside and out) unnecessarily, fridge and freezer doors open too long, (over) heating rooms they are not using or left and not returning to, etc., etc.. 🙃 Does that mean you have disconnected the battery monitor connector at the negative battery terminal, done some sort of 'coding'/setting with a scan tool or just push the deactivate button every time?

Removed to save confusion.