nta16

Well done on finding this and sorting it. Unfortunately a familiar story. With those new to old cars or a particular marque or model when they asked about an issue one of the questions would be have new parts been fitted, difficult to know if the car is only recently owned and came with little or no history, as those without experience often assume a new part can't be at fault just because it's new. I always go on to never assume the part fitted is correct or works fully or correctly or is fitted correctly. Which leads me on to did you discover correct plumbing.

ETA: if the remote doesn't open the boot you can open the boot using a suitable tool in the "emergency" slot, put the back seat back down, lean in to the boot, see your car's 'Owner's Manual'. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/apps/manuals/Models

Original part number on my wife's for 2015 hatch is the 5E0 827 566, and the click means nothing really other than the switch assembly has fallen apart or seized. Follow the bit in the link about getting the switch out, good luck, let us know how you get on.

Yes it is common, its a VW with thin wiring put in too tight. I'm not sure about the click, does that mean the button is working or not(?) sorry I can't remember, common is that a thin wire in trunking on the LHS from body to boot has snapped its insulation and possibly wiring causing the issues, a few threads and posts on here with photos of repairs. Are you going to repair it yourself or pay someone? Best is to remove the switch and see if it is working (PITA) tiny connector and pins before buying a new one as they're not over cheap. Good luck. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/538100-replacing-tailgate-switch

Hi, welcome. If you have not already seem them there are Fabia Mk2 (or Mk3?) and 'Fabia Project' forums included in the 'Škoda Fabia' section of the site plus a 'Performance & Tuning Upgrades' forum. HTH. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/166-%C5%A1koda-fabia/ https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/212-performance-tuning-upgrades/

3 hours ago I posted on another thread (and model) about "battery" (not) issue, so I'm just going to copy and paste what I put there to give you the idea, obviously the post is from another thread so doesn't totally relate here but the principals remain the same. Quote: "It depends on your use of the car and it's electrics but only 2 years out of any battery sounds bad, Varta are normally a good make and EFB or EFB+ whilst possibly not as good as AGM aren't that bad. The battery gets the blame for many electrical and charging issues when the vast, vast (twice) majority of times it isn't the battery at fault, rather a problem with the car (part(s), component(s), system(s), programing) seen many times with VW - or and I'm not suggest this is the case this time, but other times, it's the use, abuse, neglect of the vehicle owner/driver(s). Varta is a reliable make, most are, VWŠkoda vehicles have been proven to be less so by all the different threads and posts on the various models of "battery problems". By all means fit a new battery for yourself and code it in, do this carefully to have correct data entry, loads and loads of examples of how on the various model forums here or I can post up info again here - but if you still have the car in 3 years time I expect you might have the same/similar issue (if not before). Good luck, let me know if you want battery 'coding' info (to confirm what you might already know, even more relevant if going AGM)."

It depends on your use of the car and it's electrics but only 2 years out of any battery sounds bad, Varta are normally a good make and EFB or EFB+ whilst possibly not as good as AGM aren't that bad. The battery gets the blame for many electrical and charging issues when the vast, vast (twice) majority of times it isn't the battery at fault, rather a problem with the car (part(s), component(s), system(s), programing) seen many times with VW - or and I'm not suggest this is the case this time, but other times, it's the use, abuse, neglect of the vehicle owner/driver(s). Varta is a reliable make, most are, VWŠkoda vehicles have been proven to be less so by all the different threads and posts on the various models of "battery problems". By all means fit a new battery for yourself and code it in (do this carefully to have correct data entry, loads and loads of examples of how on the various model forums here or I can post up info again here - but if you still have the car in 3 years time I expect you might have the same/similar issue (if not before). Good luck, let me know if you want battery 'coding' info (to confirm what you might already know, even more relevant if going AGM).

Pedal feel, movement and slack does of course need the brakes adjusted as required but that feels a bit different to say spongy feel of air in the system. If you redone callipers you could try cracking off where the flexi-pipes goes into the callipers to check for fluid weeping and then perhaps at flexi to fixed pipe connections, similar for rear and so on in an effort to zone the issue down. Unless you're disabled even when older like me, when your legs certainly lose some strength, I'd have not thought you shouldn't a servo on such a light vehicle also of course deaden or makes remote the feel of the brakes, braking to the vehicle should be the same with or with out the servo, and of course much of the braking relies on good quality appropriate tyres. A quick look at those parts did remind me of the pedal end of the system, if it has a pedal spring and it is weak that will affect pedal slack, travel and feel as will any pivot point bushing and/or lubrication, or rust or wear (ovaling) or bending or even mats behind the pedals. I am always very cautious about buying modern made parts for old cars from lots (and lots) of bad experience of such, often finding the old worn parts better than new p1ss-poorly made new parts so I suggest you check the operation of the rear auto adjusting, the use of the, in my case a very reluctant, glamorous assistant. Good luck.

Sorry I should have thought of this before (old age forgetfulness) have a look and/or ask in and/or asking in the 'Classic SKODA Projects' forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/206-classic-skoda-projects/

You might be better looking in and/or asking in the 'Classic SKODA Projects' forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/206-classic-skoda-projects/ HTH.

You'd want to vacuum out at that point to get most coolant and debris that you can and going in both directions. Of course if you have collapsing hoses you couldn't use much vacuum pressure. Also doesn't access drain points you can scrape clear if required other than at the bottom rad hose which tend to be large opening anyway. I've seen photos of lumps of coolants eventually released from cooling systems and myself experience small apertures partial blocked by debris. Like residue coolant you may not get every last bit of debris and/or gloop out of the engine and system but the more out the better. Let's hope replacing the collapsing hose helps to keep the heat down.

A new name to me. 😄 I'm not far behind your opinions on both and though I'm not a Luddite the mobile phone my wife bought for me remains almost always on the desk next to the landline phone. This is the third version she bought the first according to Tesco records in 2008 with £20 on it which due to mickey-tacking was down to £12.78 end of last year, no top-ups whatsoever and when they switched off 3G Tesco added £5 free so back up to £17.78 which should easily see me through to the supposed 2G switch off in 2033. I was using a mate's mobile car phone in the 80s and TwatNavs when you had to wait to see the 5(?) satellites on the thing before it could work, so not a Luddite just fed up at regression rather than progression. I'm not one Faceache either but would just ask someone I know who is to ask for me. Lots of different ideas of how to get the air out of the system, depends on what's at the high point(s) of the system. I personally am never in any sort of rush to do any farting about on a car so used one-man, gravity, glass jar system, slow but often very effective first time. For air still in the system, one method a stick against the seat base holding the pedal down at least overnight, easy, not much effort and you can do anything better than farting about with cars, which almost anything to me. Or depending on how spongy the pedal is, a drive to shake the air bubbles to the highest point and bleed as required. Or have the car at what ever angle(s) required to have a high bleed point(s) or avoid high tap points. I assume you don't have servo brakes. Good luck, let us know how you get on.

Have you tried the skoda rapid / estelle Facebook group or other such gathering haunts for RWD Škodas.

Rob, if the engine doesn't have one my apologies (I'm only used to, supposedly inferior, old English (BMC/BL) engines that do have them. Just try flushing (back-flushing) through the direct engine inlet and outlet ports, holes, pipes/hoses connectors, just clear all are fully clear and scrape as required.

I'm lost, you have a 2.5 year old UK VWŠkoda, don't you get 3 years warranty and don't software updates come as part of a vehicle service?

I can't see that being correct, AGM batteries how been commonly about in the UK for many years now and possibly lots longer in USA and they're not always the most advanced or forward looking place. Sorry to hear your car is still playing up, the computer systems will do for these newer modern cars before the engines fall apart (but probably not some of the VW suspensions). I'm going to your new thread to read it now* (despite not being a Mk4 owner!). ETA: * well I will when you post it

Certainly if doing work on a part, system or component then that is a good time to replace as required, sometimes with better than already fitted but bear in mind many/some "upgrades" and "improvement" aren't. Replacing a very dodgy hose is a priority. Now you see why I recommend removing or at least separately cleaning, flushing, back-flushing and flushing again the engine block, radiator and matrix directly individually. The amount of debris that can be in old car's cooling / heating systems can surprise many even after they have done regular coolant changes. Don't go by the internet, ask the expert owners here. What did that average refer to and include, old vehicles, new vehicles, Yank tanks, sensible smaller cars, etc., ect.. Also did you take measurements of the matrix or photos (with something to give some sort of scale) as you may be assuming the heater matrix in your pick-up is original or correct to application when it isn't. It might be correct, it might not, never assume with a vehicle you personally don't know the full hands-on history of. If it's not the "water" cooling system then that leaves all the other stuff previously listed (IIRC HGF was covered previously so if you have a test kit use it again just in case before tearing stuff down perhaps). Keep going you will get there and when you do it will be burnt into your memory, well until you get too old anyway. 🙃

Another thought (a rare event), as I don't know the heater plumbing arrangement I'm not sure how the heater matrix would be a cause, partial cause or contributory cause to your issue, but how about rather than ordering a new matrix first try bypassing the heater matrix to take it out of the equation and see if that makes any difference.

I would check with others first as a new heater matrix might be poor (crap or abysmal) quality - or might not. But this is an expensive way of doing things, firing off the parts-cannon, sure when new parts are inexpensive AND reliable it can save time and hassle. But sometimes a new modern made part may not solve the issue and can at the time or later cause its own issue(s) so be careful. If you are taking things apart do this slowly and fully inspect the parts and what it's fitted to and that the part can and does fully operate as it should. Look for anything that is present that should be or shouldn't be. I left some blueroll in a stat housing and that created some funny temperature reading and operation that I wouldn't have got to other than looking at what I had done during the work I'd done. And a mate had a used motorbike where it had to be "serviced" at the place of sale for the x-months warranty, this involved travelling, time and hassle for my mate but he done it, on the way back it wasn't running right - the mechanic had left a rag in the engine so the engine had to be replaced by them with a recon engine at their expense. Mistakes happen and Sod's Law often applies. Good luck.

Yes it is best to change the 'coding' from EFB to AGM, note VW being VW to them AGM is know as "Fleece", look for that in your settings. Again, yes it sounds like an issue with the scanner. Did you fully update the scanner, firmware and for VW, before you used it to 'code' the battery? If you did fully update the scanner before using it (always a good habit to get into) then you need to contact Ancel to check your car model and year are fully covered for this operation and that you are following correct procedure (which I guess you are, but I don't know). Have you driven the Yeti since the battery change, if not then start the engine put the headlights, air-con, hazards on and turn the steering wheel all the way in both directions, then turnoff the electrics you don't need and go for a shortish drive - this should help convince the very dumb computer programs that the battery is in good state of charge and health. Good luck, let us know how you get on.

If it's not the fault mentioned in the other thread then don't over fill when fuel in and perhaps check the cap seal but computer programs and their updates can introduce problems as well as shorter lived parts. Good luck, let us know how you get on.

Hi, welcome. As well as all the Octavia MK3 forum there's a general section for Octavias and other models and subjects. Octavia section. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/169-%C5%A1koda-octavia/ HTH.

Hi, welcome. f you have not already seen it, as well as all the other subjects sections and forums on this website, there's a Superb section and forums for models of Superb. - 'Škoda Superb' - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/171-%C5%A1koda-superb/ HTH.

Hi, welcome. If you have not already seen it, as well as all the other subjects sections and forums on this website, there's a 'Škoda Kamiq' section. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/390-%C5%A1koda-kamiq/ HTH.

At the moment the 80 instead of 87 may actually help a little with the running warm and anyway as I put once the coolant is above the fully open temperature of the 80 or 87 stat the stat is out of the game until the coolant temperature drops again to the stat's opening/closing range of operation. Plus the cabin heat was quoted as 50c(?) that's very hot considering the vehicle is in the UK in early March, even on a rare very warm early March day. Probably not so possible with such a modern old car but a con for selling an older vehicle with cooling issue(s) for whatever reason(s) was to remove the stat to prevent too much build up of heat when selling the vehicle.