nta16

Put the battery on charge again using your Ctek (I don't suppose it has a low setting but if it has put it to low) and charge until the Ctek shows fully charged (24 hours should have been enough but obviously it wasn't). Important (if you don't or properly do so) is to read and follow the instructions in the Owner's Manual and the instructions for the charger. If your Ctek has a rescue/revive setting you could try that. 70 Ah battery for VW is to use a 7-amp charger, personally I prefer a 4-amp or even 2-amp charger, takes longer but gives a greater chance of a better longer lasting charge and battery. If you can't complete a full charge in one go because you run out of time and/or need to you the car have a second go to get to full asap. It could be be the battery has seen too much use/abuse neglect and has gone weak ,or the charging system has a fault, or you have a drain (camera or something left live 24ours a day or fault drain on the car) or very least likely the battery was a duff one. You could see if there's (an admitted) Recall for battery or charging issues, otherwise I doubt you'll get any uncharged help from the Dealership unless it's a part/component/system fault. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns As put already you battery readings aren't great but it depends on where and when they were taken and what with. Just driving the car doesn't always resolve the issue particularly if the battery has been taken too low or too low too often and if during the driving you have high electrical consumption. Prevention is better than cure, just as it's not against any law for men to read instructions (if you don't do so already) you can also when required do proa-active preventative battery charger with an appropriate battery charger maintainer. Preventative charge with appropriate charger maintainer at winter/summer tyre changing times, perhaps just after the very hot weather in summer, and/or as required as a preventative. The car battery is one of the most oversold car parts, in the UK at least, with premature, often distress, replacement when very often using an appropriate battery charger maintainer would have put off the replacement purchase for a very long time. Battery issues is also the number one reason for breakdown call outs in the UK (January 2nd being the busiest for those) the majority of times the problem could have been avoided by preventative use of an appropriate charger maintainer which would also extended the usual life of the battery and if done when required more regularly extend the battery life by years. As the post 2021 cars age there will be more need for appropriate charger maintainer or simply more premature replacement batteries sold. RAC must make a killing out of them judging by how quickly they tell their customers they need a new battery and how much they charge for them, even a mate bought a replacement battery after calling them out, battery not from them as they were so high priced, I took his previous battery away and it charged up well and held charge so I returned it to him to use as a 12v power supply in the garage for radio and tools. He learnt his lesson then and takes more care of the batteries. Having put that sometimes for some it's best to just replace the battery, bear in mind it will want 'coding', and I too recommend Tayna - I also recommend fully charging the new battery before fitting, should take long, then you know you have started with a new fully charged battery. Also bear in mind there are two bank holidays between now and next Tuesday. Let us know how you get on.

Well you've got some nifty multimeters, or a good mate to lend them to you. You cam read up a lot and pick up a lot but the basics still apply and they're pretty straightforward and simple, if you think of the battery purely as a store, or a simple bank account, you can't take out more than is put in, you can only spend the money once and then it needs replacing if you want to spend more. If you want more info, details, and fact sheets, links, on batteries and VW's system PM me. There no trouble with learning for the first time absolutely everyone has to, but some of us struggle to retain or remember what we've learnt, and relearnt. 😄 I only learnt about VW's battery 'coding' stuff when I got a new battery for my wife's Fabia Mk3, all PITA stuff to me. Don't worry about battery serial numbers and battery make that was just for VW's sake and often the factory hasn't bother with the serial number just put a string of ones (1111111111) and all you need do is increase that number by one (1111111112). Also you need to change the battery type from EFB to fleece (VW for AGM) and alter to 70 (Ah). As with all computer data input or 'coding' be very careful to check what you've typed and double-check it before committing to the program. See the example for my wife's car done by a Briskoda member on his OBDEleven. The battery manufacturer was a three letter code but you can just leave it as before. AFAIK Bosch is a Varta so I and you could put in "VAO" AFAIL VW's code for Varta (but mine has been fine left with "Bosch"). You might get the previous battery back for useful use, be interesting to see, as I put the secret is time and patience (which many don't posses, one or both) go as low (amps) slow and long (many hours or day or days) as you can, always fully charge the battery even if it means doing it in a couple of stages if you don't have time or need use of the car.

You can do various load tests but real life use of the battery on the car is proper conformation for me. The car battery is one of the most oversold car parts, in the UK at least, with premature, often distress, replacement when very often using an appropriate battery charger maintainer would have put off the replacement purchase for a very long time. Battery issues is also the number one reason for breakdown call outs in the UK (January 2nd being the busiest for those) the majority of times the problem could have been avoided by preventative use of an appropriate charger maintainer which would also extended the usual life of the battery and if done when required more regularly extend the battery life by years. As the post 2021 cars age there will be more need for appropriate charger maintainer or simply more premature replacement batteries sold. RAC must make a killing out of them judging by how quickly they tell their customers they need a new battery and how much they charge for them, even a mate bought a replacement battery after calling them out, battery not from them as they were so high priced, I took his previous battery away and it charged up well and held charge so I returned it to him to use as a 12v power supply in the garage for radio and tools. He learnt his lesson then and takes more care of the batteries of his small fleet.

ETA: just for info, trunk is the American term, we call it the boot in UK.

Do you mean a plastic sheet on the inside of the door panels stuck to the door frame?

That's fair enough, each to their own, personally I don't like plastic wheel trims or alloy wheel designs, it's your car and your money you put on what you like, personally I quite like the look of the wheels/trim in Carlston's photo (no idea of real life tho') and think I'd prefer them to many alloy designs but I like steel wheels with chrome "hubcaps" so I know I'm not anywhere near average in this. I also don't like black painted alloys, but it's not my car or choice. 😄 When you're sorted your 16" black wheels bang up a photo, I'm sure the overwhelming majority will agree with you and I might be a convert (on your car). All the best.

Up to you who and what you believe. You were a bit late in sorting the battery and a 5-amp appropriate changer rather than being too low was perhaps too high. The secret is to get the right charger (a "smart" charger might need fooling which ain't difficult as like "smart" "phones" they ain't that smart) and it can be a "smart" charger, go low (amps), slow and long for best results. Think day(+) rather than hours. I've recovered a few "dead" batteries over the decades without "clever" maths or education or training, just by experience. I've recovered a battery at 2.5V (multimeter, not Fiuke reading on connected terminals), though I'd not trust it for long after charging, and a battery that was left "dead" on a garage floor for 2 years to be successfully used on a little used small van (until I had to recharge it again). But I'm no good at maths, physics, chemistry, sexy battery chargers or scan tools, so I just relying on decades of real life experience, the basics are still the basics. It doesn't matter what the voltage reads at charge or after it's how long it retains charge and how good the battery is in real use. I use a 20+ year old 1.8 amp charger. a 4-amp, 30+ year old charger and a new-ish 4-amp "smart" start/stop charger, on "standard", EFB and AGM car batteries and none of them fancy, expensive types of chargers like Noco and others. The secret is prevention, if required charge the car battery with an appropriate battery charger maintainer before it gets too low and too often too low, prevention rather than cure. The very complex VW computer systems don't like a battery in a low state of charge and will cause all sorts of unexpected issues even when the engine starts and the lights seem bright enough and before you get any warning messages and lights on the car dash and perhaps even before scan tool stuff. Keep going with the Noco and you might get (much?) more useful car use out of that battery. Final point, if you want to accept it, if you read the Owner's Manual and the instructions for the battery charger you might know more than if you don't, despite what you might have ben told or learnt this is not illegal in any way for a (macho) man to do so. Wishing you the very best with your real life learning experience, and perhaps getting the battery to more useful life. 😁

Thanks, I can understand the nylon cover panel bit (whether it is or not) for the 5th door panel (hatch door in UK) but wooden relates to wood, from trees in UK. Not having a go as I can barely speak or write English so can't manage a second language and have respect for those that can. And I would never imagine that the cover panel would be so detailed, obviously from the days when VW were not so worried about distinguishing VW from Skoda so much to protect the father brand.

Thanks, I blame the cheap keyboard, it has sticky keys that often print none or twice, plus the battery died very shortly after that (I can use a battery that's too low for digital stuff and the keyboard will be happy with it for a very long time and wear it right down, bit like my TV remotes) - plus of course I'm a poor (slow, one-finger) typist. 😆

Old people find it difficult to break habits. 😄 Having just seen your previous post, we have a similar saying here - "every cloud has a silver lining". One thing that confused me? -

Do not rely on any warning messages or warning lights on the car, often they show when things have got further than is best, be proactive by preventing most warning messages and lights from coming on by keeping the whole car in at least reasonable condition if not good condition. Warning lights in the past were often known as "idiot lights" sometimes unfairly, but not always. Cars have complex computer stuff on them now but again many of these these shouldn't be relied on as when to take actions of maintenance (and servicing). The oil service message is more of a reminder than any real measure. For the engine oil and filter change on a 9-10 year old car you don't know the history of I suggest unless you only do lots of motorway driving that you change the engine oil and filter at the annual mileage (9,400 miles) or time whichever is soonest. Also bear in mind of course that there are far more important components and systems on the car than the engine, brakes, steering and suspension (all three include the tyres) safety electrics (lights, horn, wipers, etc,) and windows and mirrors. The garage might have used the correct or good quality oil, some do, but certainly not all, some might tell you they have changed the engine oil when all they have done is reset the reminder message. You could have a look under the engine and see if there much oil around, gravity usually takes an external oil there, and see if it looks like possibly the oil and filter have been changed, more difficult possibly 9 months later of course. I personally either change the oil and filter myself or get it done a short time after getting the car if I'm not sure when the oil and filter was last changed and which oil was used, allowing time to discover leaks and/or consumption. Xavier is joking about the price of the oil, there are loads more expensive and possibly better oils about, whichever oil you use it just needs to be good quality whether in the engine, transmission or elsewhere. People who buy a model such as a VRS unusually drive them like a model such as a VRS so the cars probably need more servicing and maintenance than other models not less. There are so many beliefs about oil and which to use that you will get multiply views and opinions but for the oil consumption I suggest you ask about that or research on the 'Skoda Octavia Mk III (2013 - 2020)' forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/235-skoda-octavia-mk-iii-2013-2020/ Good luck.

Something I meant to put in last post but forgot, also check the alternator, if the battery isn't great then the alternator has to do more, and it has 100k+-miles of work, flip side of course if the alternator isn't great the battery has to do more and isn't getting the all the help from the alternator it should. Battery is like tyres, very important to the car but often under considered and overlooked - this issue might not be with the battery but affecting it, or perhaps something different or as well as. Good luck let us know how you get on.

You dismissed this earlier and was happy with your battery readings (at battery terminals). Try checking the reading for the battery (at the terminals with a multimeter) many hours after the car was last used, perhaps the next day from overnight parking, and see if they differ much from before. Sexy scan tools are all very well but the boring basics still need to be done. So many take a lot of convincing that just because the engine starts and lights seem bright enough that the car battery might still be in a low state of charge (and health) which can cause all sorts of unexpected issues even before the warning lights and messages show. If the battery is used/abused/neglected for too long/ too many times then even using an appropriate battery charger maintainer may not be able to recover it or recover it sufficiently. Also of course checking the battery terminals and terminal clamps are clean and secure and the main cables and earths are in good condition and connections clean, secure and protected - of course you may have already done this. A battery in a lower state of charge often will not help with diagnostics of engine staring and other electrical issues and may well hinder progress whereas a battery fully charged and in reasonably good condition will not hinder diagnostics and progress. Of course your problem may have nothing to do with the state of charge and health of your battery but as I put it may influence diagnosis. A number of times I've been assured "the battery is good" and it wasn't or I check the terminal clamps (or battery holding clamps) and they are loose, had this the other week on a two-year-old car that had the battery replaced under warranty by the Dealership (Ren No! Nissan) positive battery terminal clamp offset so plastic cover wouldn't shut down and negative battery terminal clamp was overtightened so the clamp had bit into the battery post and needed a bit of work to get the two items to part from each other with very little room to get any tools in to assist with this. Dealerships really can make a mess of the simplest of jobs.

You could buy the wheel trims or just run with black wheels, a very serviceable colour, or if you want paint them another colour, dayglo red, orange, green or pink if you want. Only last week I had a neighbour ask if I'd look at his front wheel as he'd kerb'd it (even I can look at things), as we approached the car it didn't look good from a distance. As I got a bit closer I could see the wheel was steel with plastic trim cover so I said I'd take the trim cover off and take it home to see what could be done but once at the car wheel I could see it was a flexible type of trim cover held at the centre so I eased the cover bent edge from the inside of the wheel rim to outside with my fingers, three seconds of "repair work". But I did get my fingers cover in muck, that's just one of the things I don't like with farting about with cars, how very dirty many jobs are. But my neighbour was happy, I told him he was lucky it was a steel wheel and not an alloy. On an old shopping-trolly get him to work car, it's not a VW brand so he's had next to no problems with it and those were very minor and inexpensive to sort (so very much not a VW brand).

Personally I would go for 15" wheels (and steel at that) and good quality 15" tyres. In Carlston's example above the Uniroyal RainExpert 5 205/60R15 91V have nominally 8% more sidewall than the Uniroyal RainSport 5 205/55R16 91V and of course both have more sidewall than the, to me silly, 17" and 18" tyres. A 205/55R16 already has about 9/10% more than a 205/50R17 - and a massive about 22% more than a 205/45R18.

Yes I'm sure they would have some very engineers' logic to it all and "continuous improvement", "meeting current/future standards" - with each change of coolant spec. I can't wait for G13 EVO, or would it be G12 EVO++ , TL-774 M or N, O, P depending on the G number and number of pluses, I'm not a VW engineer it's all beyond my logic, might be G15 next. for all I can tell. I bet some engineers are working on it now for my benefit, and this is the gratitude I give them, I'm ashamed of myself.

Tut, tut, the marvellous VW engineers changed their minds about that one, it's G12evo now (not G14, of course, as that would be too easy) I hope you're not disagreeing with those marvellous fellas, all the training, education and experience they went through, they wouldn't get things wrong would they. 😁 Get the drain catch bowl out. 😊 Only some German car owners know about those G numbers over here, it's good for the Dealerships and some retailers though, engineers, especially the German engineers it seems, do love their numbers.

Many, both sides of 'the pond', for their 1950s (MGA) cars favour Redline gear oil and report good findings and use, I favour more local companies but there are plenty of good gear oils about, as well as the standard and run-of-the-mill stuff to choose from. Oil 'weight' range can be much debated. attached the leaflet with Redline's point of view (old leaflet now(?)). - redline-mtl-redline-mt90.pdf

The second video does sound a lot worse - and to add insult to injury last July VWSkoda UK finally admitted, and got in line with Europe, that the rubber belts didn't need changing at 5yrs/60K-miles but at 15yrs/150k-miles IIRC. If it's a timing issue then some "fully-trained" VWSkoda Dealership/garage mechanic/technician might have ballsed it up but obviously I don't know and hope not and I don't know if for some reason the 3-pots might be an exception to the 'new' belt changing schedule (but I doubt it) and anyway it been done now, at least you didn't have to pay about £420 for it like we were conned into, so look on the bright side. Belt driven things, alternator or other driven pump(s) can give squeak noises and thumps (another reason to prevent the battery from constant low state of charge to help the alternator out). As you're one pot short of a set of four spark plugs and coils and leads/wires condition take on 33/25% more importance but I've no idea of particular relevance to (if) any to 1.0 110 engines (what's the (four letter?) engine code?). Rooted assures me these VW 3-pots are fine and OK which they may well be for 21st-century VW and relative to late 20th-century VW 4-pots which always sounded badger's bottom to my very limited experience of them. @Rooted will give a more balance view and greater info on the VW 3-pots (though he will say the same on proper servicing of the engine and car). This is something I recommend when considering a car and before purchase, best if possible with a real life and average mileage/use owner of the same model spec, engine, bearbox and age that is honest enough to tell you warts and all (not an all out marque fan and that's for any marque shopping trolly to hypercar) and also to read the Owner's Manual for the car so you know a bit about how it operates and its needs (a lot less marketing billhooks in that publication than others as it's expected to be very occasionally if ever, glanced at by captured purchasers). Do bear in mind this is a relatively (by modern standards) car with a downsized engine belatedly put in by outside force rather than VW choice and that Skoda isn't the label or halo brand of the group. Personally I'd pass the problem back to CINCH if they can't sort it to my full satisfaction in a reasonable time then the deal would be off, they will always use any agreement that is to their favour but usually (depends on what staff member you get) not want to lose a delivered sale. Again others will know better than my poor memory (imagination?) but I think CINCH are with just checked yeap, CINCH, British Car Auctions (and WeBuyAnyCar) are all part of the same lot so the cars come from many sources so not always bad but also not always good. A few years back I was at Rockingham Speedway when it was closed and a storing ground for loads of various vehicles and the next year or two after that when a stand had CINCH in the seating and one of the chaps their told me the place had basically been bought as a play place of three of the high ups but I guess things must have got "tight" (relatively) for them as they were having to put it to some (little) commercial use - obviously only internet talk and any resemblance to any living person is unintended coincidence. We never saw them and they let us use the track so I've no personal axe to grind, I'm sure they must be the salt of the earth despite my own personal many bad experience with those in the English motor trade.

Not in this thread but I'm almost sure (never 100% (or 110% if you follow kicky-bally) sure and never sure about remembering correctly) this has been covered in other thread(s) and probably a contribution from your good self but no reason not to repeat anything in this thread for other viewers. Maths are good and real life/world experiences are good.

Hi, welcome. Sorry I couldn't hear any warbling only hiss which could be just the recording/equipment. Someone with the same engine would perhaps know better. I obviously have no idea of how much you know about car and what experience of driving various cars you have but your surprise that a smaller (relatively light by modern standards) lighter less powerful car can be enjoyable to drive may mean you've been with heavier more powerful cars for a long time or your age and driving experience isn't as old as mine and a couple of other regulars here so please don't get upset if I now put stuff you already know. 13k-miles in 6 years may mean the car just needs a proper (not Dealership/some garages) full (whole) car servicing and maintenance (and driver maintenance) and a good (or few) proper "blow-out" runs once the car is confirmed to be suitable for such (not CINCH or any other list of "checks") and of course fully engine (oil, and other) warmed up. A low mileage car can often be more niggly than an average or high mileage car and because of the low mileage possibly not even get the scant annual servicing (of engine oil and filter change and little more else) or not timely servicing let alone maintenance, when in fact the car is in more need of servicing and maintenance check rather than less need. At 6 years old it should have had a minimum of 6 oil & filter changes, engine air filter change and that's just on the relatively unimportant part of the car which is the engine. A couple of brake fluid changes and checks on brakes, including the often forgotten brake component of tyres, which are also important to the steering and suspension systems. The car battery if it has been replaced might need the attention of an appropriate battery charger maintainer, if the particularly if the previous owner didn't use one, despite the fact the engine always starts and lights seem bright enough. At least a check of the state of charge of the battery on its terminal posts a good few hours after the car was last run. I am unusual here in not being a VW fan and have always thought there engines to be a bit on the rough side but now the VW computer programs have them giving all sorts of sounds as the computer programs do their stuff. The 1100 revs could be part of this or it might be a fault of some kind, doing a search on the engine on here or Google will cover this. I have no experience of VW's 3 cylinder car engines but have in the past had a couple of 660cc 3-cylinder turbo engines that were sweet as a nut, one particularly bulletproof, but both were Japanese, another was 699cc, 3-cylinder turbo excellent engine , surprisingly made by a different German marque used them as standard cars and for car club tours and car club in the UK and in France/ Germany. Others may be old enough to know of and use 250cc and 350cc engines and know how very little hp you need once moving on a level road and relatively little to go up hills and overtake at legal motorway speed, let alone the fun you can have on good unclassified, B and A roads.. Sorry that was more background info than a specific answer to your question. Plugging in an appropriate, for VW, good level of scan tool will show you anc error codes, current and perhaps any historic that the Dealership/garages have been too lazy to remove. This is a list of Briskoda members with the likes of VCDS scanners who may be near you and able to give you a report for free or beer token plus others proffesional with perhaps other rates. - Briskoda VCDS Owners Map (click me) HTH.

😄 There certainly wasn't Papez's level of detail of detail in previous thread(s). I might be wrong but I have the feeling that there was a general conclusion previously that amy difference would be of no significance, but not spelled out in such a strict way as Papez has now put.

@medley many apologies, I am a silly old fool - I didn't realise I was directing you to the very forum you (and I) were posting on, I thought we were posting on the 'Audio, Electronics and Security' forum where I had just been. You could try private messaging or calling pab567 (bu using the '@' symbol just in front of pab567 as I have with your site name in this post) as he generally knows about infotainment and has downloads/updates I think, but possibly not for stuff this new, I don't know. Sorry about the mix up, I wasn't intentionally trying to be funny about it just old foggy confusion.

The one I was referring to is on here, this site, there might be others too elsewhere but I don't know, but then I didn't know there was a Scala until recently, sorry these so-called SUVs all look the same to me and I can't understand why there are so many different models of them in Skoda only. A Fabia Mk1 and Golf Mk2 are modern cars to me, for 30+ years I used over-priced, over-valued, 20-50 year old cars (called "classics" over here) as daily use, work, commuting, holidays in UK and abroad the last car I owned for 16 years, until 18 months ago was a 1973 MG Midget, no electronics other than the ignition distributor and LED indicator lights relay, only relay on the car, five fuses, no brake servo, no radio (let alone infotainment), no aux socket, single speed heater blower, and wipers. This one did have an interior land boot light my previous example of the model didn't. Yet somehow I survived, and through the UK winters and "summer" weather. I now drive a 2005, 2015 and 2023 cars and I MUCH prefer the 2005 car. There, a good moan to clear the miserable-old-man's mind, for a while anyway. 😄 Briskoda Škoda Scala forum (on this site). - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/384-škoda-scala/

Yes that stuff was covered in previous thread(s) not necessarily the exact figures but certainly the principles. Coolant, antifreeze, additives in and can be added, accuracy of thermostat number starting to open and fully open, accuracy of water gauge and bias range, oil, which G number, all covered IIRC. Might not have covered possible efficient temperatures of different engines but we leave that to the German engineers to sort for us and all their designed systems on the car.