nta16

Which gearbox? My wife's was a 5-speed manual (PED?) and IIRC was 75w-80 GL4 oil but if yours is also a 5-speed manual (PED?) I can look it up to check for you in the very reliable paper printed car file to confirm (computers are flimsy unreliable things) or sources of info can be Opie Oils (if you have VW orders specification numbers you can look up with those too) or I use Millers Oils (Yorkshire company) 'What Oil' but bear in mind all sources of info including manufactures can include errors and omissions.

900, to me, pluses - covers for battery lead connectors, perhaps longer mains lead (don't know), better display, trendy it aint (a plus to me) minuses - some too tiny 12v on screen and the 'FUL' is still there that annoys me, and the same mode function button that outfoxes me, new so not time tested in real world use. Evolution rather than revolution, worth a go, probably lower priced from other retail providers, but if the 800 is on special offer at significantly lower price (than it was) to clear stock I'd go with it instead as it's been Ok in my use and others seem to say it's OK. Anything that cuts down on time farting about with the car is good by me and if its easy to use the better, and if it's reliable and long lasting even better. If either blows your car up let us know. 😄

That's the exact rubbish reply I put about in my post before you posted this. I think they're talking about plugging in a scan tool to see what's been recorded on the car's computers but they only record what the sensors report and despite the numerous sensors on the car they're not on everything and can report on every fault and those they can still need interpreting and understanding as they can't always find a faulty/sensor that is the issue. With your issue, as a total non-mechanic and expert in anything, I think it's probable to be possibly clutch or gearbox related, though other computer interference though very unlike could perhaps be a contributing factor and an appropriate VW scan tool report on a used car can be interesting, so, if your mechanic has one get him to plug it in and see what comes up. If he has one I expect he did so when you first had him check the car. Or there are members on this site that offer to help, some for free or beer tokens, some others professional so professional costs I expect, you could see if any are near you if you want. - Briskoda VCDS Owners Map (click me) If your mechanic wants to check the gearbox oil level (if cool enough) when I changed the g/box oil on my wife's car I think it was overfilled at the factory, so a quick loosening of the fill/level plug should have it weeping without taking it fully out confirming level (if not quality). You shouldn't need to do all this but sometimes it's less life-hassle not to bother with those that don't want to sort things. Good luck

Hi, welcome. Sorry I can't open your link, might just be me and/or the machine I'm on. I.ve seen on here threads on noises from below on Mk3 Fabias and some like yourself being advised to change this part or that and yet a noise remains (whether anything like your noise obviously I don't know) and my wife's 2015 Fabia Mk3 has had and has various noises from underside and I could guess at one or two of them but until the better weather is here I;m not looking for a couple of the current ones yet. I take the view that the car still brakes, steers and suspension wise rides well (for what it is) and the minimum statutory standards of passing an moT (to one person's opion at just one point in time) are meet so I put up with the annoyance on my wife's car and save my time and hassle and her money for something else the car requires sooner than I'd like. VWSkoda seem to have chosen to drop parts quality from the Mk2 and certainly Mk1 it seems from what I've read on here and generally thought I'd understood in the past. at 6 years and 41k-miles my wife's car need two new front dampers. The Dealership supplied, fitted and (premium) charged for replacement dampers were "misting" in less than 12-months but the Dealership passed them at the two subsequent MoTs there. A neighbour had a 20+ year-old Toyota Yaris still on all factory suspension parts and the same for my mate's 28-year-old Toyota Supra. Don't fall for this German engineering "quality" stuff (and with BMW and Merc) that mainly went out with the last century. It might be a bushe(es) rather than some of the parts but which bush(es) and/or which parts is the mystery often. If others can hear your link, or you can put it up as an audio or video it might give some info to some but noises can be a real pain to track down without multi-mic kits or similar. The car's weight is generally a lot more force than a bloke with a bar can provide so perhaps the play in those areas might have been some noise and possibly better replaced anyway but that easier on the person getting paid for the work and some bloke on the internet not paying for it, and it hasn't resolved your (main)? issue.. Sometimes just tightening anything that has come loose (or been left loose) can help a lot. For bushes sometimes a spay of lubricant on bush or set at a time can help track them down - but that's squeaking not clattering, knocking or banging. As you see it's not that easy to find these things without time and patience and noises travel it might be something else entirely different and not where you think it originates. Took me 6-months and taking two different people out in another car to pin down a rattle turned out to be something that was originally suggested and I (thought) I'd originally checked near the very start. Even my wife let me down that time and she can hear the faults well before I notice them and even name some of them (decades of old car "classics" ownership and daily use). Good luck

My first thought is the cables or whatever from gearshift to box which would be mechanical so no need to necessarily wait for the interment problem to show up (or not show up) on a plug-in computer machine to save any strenuous thought being put in and cause head-hurt to the overworked mechanics and technicians that need to get on with more profitable work. A rare not to worry you about thing but as the car is new to you I personally would also want the gearbox checking for oil, oil/leaks and signs of previous repairs/parts replacement because I've heard of stories from two neighbours would used to collect and deliver s/h and lease cars to car storage places and dealers. I done this on my neighbours 4-month old first-owner car and didn't even need to even remove the plastic trays below the engine and box to some very non-factory signs of (poor quality cover-up) work and I'm not a mechanic or expert (in anything). Whatever you do don't let the seller fob you off, if the warranty is third party contact them and see where else you can take your car for warranty work to be done They' might (or might not) even let your trusted mechanic look and do the work but he might not thank you for it if he doesn't deal with the warranty company (or companies) normally as, I don't know. but would imagine some might be v e r y , v e r y s l o w p a y e r s of bills to them. Let us know how you go on and get on good luck.

Double/treble check any info you get from anywhere (including manufacturers) - so don't just buy a Ring RSC804 on some bloke oft t'web's say- so and if you wanted you could get a RSC806 for a 59Ah battery - and keep to VW's orders. You could guess it'd be an EFB as VW are too tight to fit AGM from the factory even on their products with their glorious name badge on let alone their "lesser" brands, 😄 Use the charger maintainer after the hot summer bit and cold winter bit and between the two if or as required as preventative measures and you should see a lot longer out of your battery and less hassle than most other owners of 2020 Scalas. Do read and follow the instructions for the charger maintainer and those for the car (in Owner's Manual) despite what some think it's not against any law for a man to do so (though many are incapable especially tradesmen I've found). Of course it wouldn't kill VWSkoda to put information about the battery in the Owner's Manual (along with other stuff they don't divulge that most other manufacturers do) but it doesn't seem to be the way they do things. Keeps forums going at least. 😄 Good luck.

I don't know VCDS or OBD11 or ash and soot figures or the calculations to change to other measures of them but other posters here do. I do know it's always better, and not against any law as some blokes think, to read instructions including manuals before starting the job or use of tools - how good and useful some of these manuals are is a different matter. Have a look at the car's owner's manual for which warning lights are on the car. Ford IDS is what started the search for a scan tool for my mate's 1996 Zetec 130 engine and all the different leads for cars of the time and research I've forgotten now, they were doing electronics for F1 (or was it Grand Pricks then, I forget) but saw a video recently of Tomorrow's World with a 1971 BL Triumph car of the future with electronics on so that must go back to the 60s so it's all very old technology, not as ancient as IC though, so don't expect just because we're in the 21st century that the car manufacturer's have bothered progress either technologies that much. If you do a regen on the move it has to be within the requirements otherwise it's start all over again with a break from requirements better I think is just to keep going with it when you next have a long journey to do and not believe the time scales given - but that's only based on a few vids I've seen and not any personal knowledge or experience. Good luck.

These "smart" chargers are like other "smart" devices really a misnomer as sometimes you have to fool them to get them to do what you want but for the average car owner they want plug and play, fit and forget, which is fine and what I want unless the battery has been so used and abused that it needs more to rescue. The secret as usual is prevention is better than cure, a simple straightforward plug and play, fit and forget charger maintainer is all that's required if used as prevention and for normal recharging when required. A mate has a couple of much more expensive CTek charger maintainers both exactly the same model yet they seem to operate slightly different to each other so as wotsit Twain sang they don't impress me much particularly at their high price but they do the job. Whether they or the Ring RSC804 I have last 20 or 30 years we'll have to wait and see. I also have a 20+ year old Accumate 1.8amp (IIRC) "smart-ish" charger maintainer and a 30+ year old simple 4amp Bradex charger I've used both of the old chargers on various batteries with a little bit of care but no worries.and I've had no issues. A neighbour and a few others I know have over the last number of years bought £15 charger maintainers from Lidl and they say they work fine, my neighbour's is used regularly (32 year old Merc auto that goes nowhere regularly) and he must have had it 5 years now. A lot of chargers have a cold/winter setting, sometimes with a temperature stated at which this should be used if not I take it as +5C or below it just ups things a bit but it's not a make or break thing. Up to you what you buy and how much you spend of course, personally I've have preferred a switchable/programable 2 and 4 amp charger maintainer but with modern car eating battery power like it's going out of fashion 4-amp is more practical. Good luck.

No need to go overboard on buying a charger maintainer, the "smart" ones often/always(?) sort out whether start/stop and whether EFB or AGM for themselves. I've found a slower. lower charger is better so use a 4-amp, you can charge in stages if you don't have the opportunity to fully recharger the battery in one go. A 6-amp or 8-amp would be quicker of course, VWSkoda recommend no more than one tenth of the Ah of the battery, have a look at your Owner's Manual for details, from 20.07.2020 Owner's Mamual. - To charge the vehicle battery fully, set a charging current of max. of 0.1 times the battery capacity. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Just one cheaper example, many others available, this is the one I use on my wife's 2015 Fabia Mk3 with 60Ah AGM battery fitted - Ring Smart Charger & Maintainer 4-amp RSC804. - https://www.ringautomotive.com/files/mydocs/RSC804_Spec.pdf https://www.ringautomotive.com/files/mydocs/RSC804_RSC806_RSC808_Instructions.pdf Charging overnight at -4c (IIRC). -

How the wheels look is a personal thing, the oversizing of wheels and tyres (for probably decades now) is a lot to do with fashion, marketing and sales. Fashion often has little to do with practicality. You'll probably not accept that 16" is already oversized. In this forum and on the site you will find many owners of various models who want and do downsize the wheels (and tyres) the car arrived to them with for matters of comfort and practicality, our 3rd-world roads often bring the idea and hasten the change to a smaller size. 205/55/16 tyres against 225/40/18 tyres (all figures nominal) the 16" tyres have (nominally) 0.9" (25.7%) (23mm) more sidewall height giving pneumatic cushioning to the (smaller) wheels, rest of the suspension and car. Big debate on whether any insurance provider has any influence over this but check your policy or with your provider as I think (I'm no expert) they want to know of such changes as they things can increases risks to you and them and if the model is only standard up to 17" and you want 18" they may (I don't know I'm not an expert) want to increase your premium (and some an admin fee too). Grip, handling, comfort and road noise is about the design, construction and composition of the make and model of the tyre rather than its size over one or two size range, a very good small 'un will often be better than a good big 'un, As always check any information from any source (bloke of internet, manufacturers and others databases) with if possible at least another couple of reliable sources. https://www.wheel-size.com/size/skoda/octavia/2016/#trim-mk3-a7-5e-2013-2017-20-tdi--148 205/55/16 against 225/40/18 tyres - (all figures nominal) - https://tiresize.com/tyre-size-calculator/ If Carlston swings by he'll provided you with lots of details on the wheels (and perhaps tyres). HTH.

It won't they should just last longer but they are a thicker battery than the 2025 recommended(?) battery for the fob. 2025 is 20mm diameter and 2.5mm thick, 2032 is 20mm diameter and 3.2mm thick. Most car owners don't realise how much hassle the car's battery being in a low state state of charge can cause even when the car starts and the lights seem bright enough, all sorts of unexpected warning lights and messages and other issues can appear and things get worse if the battery isn't sufficiently charged, often needs the use of an appropriate battery charger maintainer. In my wife's 2015 Fabia's remote I have previously used 2025 off a mixed card of button batteries from the likes of the pound shop and they have worked fine - but the remote fob isn't a proximity type like KESSY, personally I'd never want such keys, more to go wrong, I'm happy to stick with using keyblades, as you often have to when the remote type foul up, I'm that mush of an old-fart. 😄 Are you sure they even look, my wife's car is usually serviced at the local Skoda Dealership and I'm not sure they plug a scan tool in and if they did for a specific repair I'd expect them to start suggesting parts replacements rather than proper diagnostics. Some members on Briskoda have VW appropriate scan tools and may be able to give you at least a scan tool report or be able to do diagnosis - some for free or for beer tokens (others may be professional services so professional charges but I don't know that for sure). Keys does need as certain level of scan tool to have the relevant program on. It may be worth your while to have a look at the following list and see and enquire if someone near to you may be able to help you. - Briskoda VCDS Owners Map (click me) HTH.

I can remember cleaning wheels - but not why. 😄

First thing I always think of , to keep things simple and basic and hands clean, check the battery terminal clamp connections are clean and secure and same for main live and earth cables and connections, that the battery is at a good state of charge. Then I might consider the stalk internal connections (and grease) might have a fault(s). If you have access to a good level (above generic code reader) VW appropriate scan tool get a report and if possible tests. You could see if there's a member near to you that might be able to help with this from following link. -Briskoda VCDS Owners Map (click me) HTH.

@RickW you might already know this and I've got the wrong end of the stick but if not - to get direct (depending on his settings perhaps?) to pab567 from this thread start with the 'at' symbol then, no space, go on typing his site name and you'll get a drop list of members, the more characters of pab567 you type the shorter the list and closer to his site name to click on it or just type the lot. HTH.

Your Owner's Manual will tell you fuse locations, sorry I don't have a list for 2011 Superb but I'd expect it to be a standard size blade fuse, the amperage rating of that blade fuse would depend on what else is on the fuseway but it will be on the blade fuse somewhere. Free VWSkoda PDF downloads of the Owner's Manuals from this VWSkoda website if you don't have the handy (no batteries needed, can be viewed in daylight) paper printed copy. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com HTH.

I think this is the worry to some VCDS users, the one click, (I like one click and shortest least complicated paths with computers) that if the one click does the job fully and correctly and reliably. I dislike "phones" as my eyes are wonky and weak and fingers too short and stubby and touchscreens don't like my skin or lack of eye to finger coordination plus I don't like relying on fading power supplies and screens you can't see in daylight let alone when the sun is out, and radio interference or reception. A wired scan tool picking up its power from the car port from inside the darker weather protected car is more to my liking with thick selection bands for my thick fingers and thick me - but I can't afford a decent one and would begrudge it being bias towards VW. A neighbour and I done a bit of research and fact finding for a mate's 1996 Ford Zetec 130 engine (that's wasn't in a Ford or had anything but engine electronics) when my mate was given one (of the two) conector tails from his mate's old garage turn of the century Ford diagnostic machine (forget what it was called). In the meantime another chap he knew that deals with old single seater Fords plugged his machine giving the same (very limited) results backing up what he said would be the problem, without even seeing the car, as it was so common, a straightforward part swap out - oh for such simple days. 😄 Ford were doing this stuff in the 1970s - but good uld BL had ideas in the late 60s(?) early 70s. 😄 German engineering, hah! - 1971: Is this the CAR of the FUTURE? | Tomorrow’s World | Retro Tech | BBC Archive - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Woz270D1HE

TBF it was a OBD11 user that help me (I thought he was referring to OBD2 😄), VCDS is VW specific so will resonant more to VW brands forums and websites, I don't know but assumed OBD11 wasn't VW specific sio wider but less depth appeal, plus OBD11 certainly looks more attractive and appealing to mas users. Again I don't know but get the feeling from what I've read on here (not looked or researched though) OBD11 not being a legacy system isn't as detailed or accurate(?) system as VCDS plus of course the mighty "smart" phone (tablet, tray) is more appealing to modern eyes and use (I can't wait for the first AI scan tool. 😁) Given the cost level of a generic scan tool to reliably be able to perform such as a regen (and as a pure guess only on VW computer programs) the VCDS is quite a bargain perhaps as with many things some promise but you want those that can deliver. I've know garage level scan tool not be able to do more specific stuff (on a different makes of cars). Only other suggestion I have is to perhaps try on the relevant model Octavia forum here, perhaps if not OBD11 advice they could give you other advice about regen. Good luck.

I haven't the first clue about the maths but an old racing saying was power for ego torque for wins. One way to increase power is to reduce weight, car and in some cases driver unless in such things as full pro dragster 10,000+ hp or privateer professional racing drivers are muscular but not large people, some of the really old drivers were more like jockeys. It's all about how something feels to you not in comparing as there's no end to others having more, and the more you have the more you want even if you can rarely use anywhere near 100% of what's available. Get everything mentioned before done, a good set of tyres and learn to drive the car (within its and your capabilities) and then see what more you want and if it's achievable with what you have, if not you need to move on. Very, very unpopular I know but one of the very best tuning aids is further driver training and this is fully transferable to all/most future cars and principles to other road vehicles. (I was talking with a road trainer from ROSPA this afternoon and I'm not sure he believed me when I said I often put this on the internet as advice.)

Justin, thanks. Just a few points then I'll leave you to it. Sorry I didn't mean to suggest you were in any way wrong in posting here, it is after all called 'Performance & Tuning Upgrades' and that's what you are asking about, I didn't make myself clear (often happens) I was thinking as it can be rather slow in this section and for more specific info with B6s fitted to Mk3 Octavia VRSs. I totally agree with replacing items before they fail and before they go too far out from optimum and reasonable and reliable performance (particularly on a performance car driven in a way it was designed (hence why I have no money and car now 😄). Many performance dampers can be "rebuilt"/"refurbed" (of course this means time off the car or two or more sets) and I expect each manufacturer has there own expected life for their different models of damper based on use of course. Things do wear as you say, oils now available cope better with things and help reduce some wear and keep things like seals in better condition for longer. Calculator out, 35k divided by 1.5, times 0.9, is (if I've pressed the right buttons) say 21k /year of rough A / B roads. +1500 Kg isn't heavy for a modern car (doesn't need 18" wheels) but isn't lightweight which is fair enough for a 5 seater road car. Depends if you are fitting the dampers yourself or paying someone else to do that and if it matters anyway. A mass market damper (like Bilstein brand name) may well be very fine and reasonably long lasting or you could perhaps look at a road sport damper from smaller British specialist companies( and perhaps adjustable dampers) which should be robust and reasonably longer lasting if only used on road driving. These things can be not as expensive as first thought and good value if more durable in performance. Tyres, 😄 I'm more used to when 70 was low profile. You'd probably not want too higher performance tyres at 23k/year. I've seen that vid before, from another poster on here, and whilst I'm not a fan of the presenter the point is made that small variations in size won't make a big difference, particularly on modern cars with all the electronic"aids" on them, it's the design, build, make-up, composition of one tyre against another that can make more difference (hence all the tyres and associated specialist people you see at motorsports (not that I follow or particularly like motorsports). Do bear in mind I'm not an expert in anything especially suspension and tyres but when I had the money I'd give a set of tyres 1k-miles (on road going only "sports" cars) and if I didn't like them I'd change them, what's the point of having a 'performance' vehicle (and this could be a MX-5 1.6 or 64hp a.n. other) if you can't get the performance you want (doesn't have to relate to paper figures or needles on dials or digital readouts). Just opinions of a bloke on the internet, as always each to their own. Enjoy your car how you like to enjoy it, good luck, perhaps report back at some point and give what you actually done and how it worked out to what you wanted and needed, cheers.

@Camera FIRST - You carry out a full and proper service, maintenance and repairs as required on the whole car. Attention to brakes, steering, suspension (all three include tyres), safety electrics (lights, horn, wipers, blower, etc.), windows and mirrors. Then full road tests of the vehicle. Then you, if required, upgrade /improve the brakes and suspension (often tyres), note not all upgrades and improvements items are better overall for the car's use. Full road tests and further changes or alterations ETA: as required or perhaps even return to previous items before the upgrade/improvement. LAST is engine upgrades and improvements.

@D.FYLAKTOS thought of you today, I was driving on the road below, not one I have been more than a few times and it's within 10 miles of my home. First photo shows something for you to worry about, a large van coming in from the opposite direction out of blind bend, luckily at one of the few places with a bit wider tarmac (just before trees on right) so he pulled over and let us through, all four of our wheels just about on tarmac. (Forgive quality of images, off Google Earth, as I am using using a very old, but sturdy computer as mine completely fouled itself up as I am sure they are designed to do.) That was the only vehicle we saw on the road but we parked up to look at the sheep in the fields both sides of the road, in the image below, as we waited for three horses and riders to pass coming from the other way. We had left a single track open field road (no fences or hedges, no livestock) just before road above with parts you could fly along as the sight lines are so good but you must be aware of wildlife that might suddenly appear that you could injury or kill (most likely birds).

Hi welcome. If you mean fuse 44 "Cigarette lighter, 12-volt power socket" as in the 07.2018 Owner's Manual that looks like a standard blade(?) fuse to me, 15 Amp is blue. Free VWSkoda PDF downloads of the Owner's Manuals from this VWSkoda website if you don't have the handy (no batteries needed, can be viewed in daylight) paper printed copy. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com Seems a waste to get something that small through the likes of Amazon. HTH.

Now you are making yourself look silly - just because you didn't read the post, and my other posts, fully and/or can't or don't want to comprehend what I've put doesn't mean you have to make the same repeated comments and jibes those posts. Whatever your problems are, and it has been proved, I can not help you so please stop pestering me, and I think other posters could do without such treatment too,

Sorry I've edited to add the words that were in my head but didn't get typed in the post. In the UK, as you may remember, a solid white centre line on your side of the road means do not cross/overtake (very few exceptions, and double solid white centre lines apply to both sides of the road).

Justin, as you've asked for advice, here's mine as a total no-expert on anything, you might not like some or all of it. The factory fitted front dampers on my wife's 2015 Fabia Mk3 SE weren't good and leaked at 41K/6years, the Dealer fitted replacement were "misting" in less than 12 months of being fitted, I've seen other Fabia Mk3 owners put about front dampers too. Now it may be that 2015 Octavia VRS dampers are better quality (well they've lasted 2 years longer at least). A neighbour had a 20+ year-old Toyota Yaris and a mate has a 28 year-old Toyota Supra both retain their fatted fitted damper and springs. Normally, but not always as I've had a few on the cars I've had, I'd be careful about suspension "upgrades" and "improvements" as often they aren't or even not as good but had we a choice I would have put better front dampers on my wife's Fabia than the stuff VWSkoda use but we had a "distress" purchase having just about run out of mot time (my fault, normally I go for rolling 13-month MoT). People often change dampers and springs when much of the issue may be caused and cured by renewing suspension bushes, again my wife's car has squeaked, knocked, moaned & groaned for a good while and I see other Fabia Mk3 owners put they change lots of things over years and still have a knocking/creek. I'm not against polybushes, had a few sets on different cars, some makes are better than others. Some say they squeak too after a while, I've never found that on the ones I had fitted, I saw a vid where a chap said it was all down to how the bushes were fitted (pressed in and use of correct grease IIRC) and I can imagine that. Recently a Karoq owner asked about B6s on here and was advised by his mechanic they'd not suit his vehicle, (firmer ride which may suit you with your model, no idea about your model but I'd suggest, if you've not already done so, you ask other Mk3 Octavia VRS owners with B6s fitted (preferably with same wheels and tyres fitted as you. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/520899-new-shock-absorbers-is-it-worth-it/page/2/#comment-5829844 All modern cars are fitted with oversized wheels and tyres which are overwide and very low profile, even shopping trollies it's a fashion thing, so the more sporty models get even bigger, wider slimmer. Tyres of course as you probably already well know are a very important component in the braking, steering and suspension systems, for suspension they affect the handling, road holding, ride and noise comfort, and to an extent so does their size. As with many things (including even fashions) more isn't always better overall and sometimes less might be better overall. HTH.