nta16

Don't think, check, cross reference, diagnosis. Is the data at the point of reading, if so is correct for use, is it that it just presents this way caused by transmission or receiving, is the scan tool correct in its report. I think you need to consult a specialist, sports/track or crash repair perhaps. As to what/who caused this is another matter, perhaps too many fingers in the pie, but it doesn't alter the situation the car is in at the moment. Computer systems in a way are very robust but also very fragile, programming needs to be extremely precise and any interactions with the systems done under the best of conditions possible, the tools used need to be fully appropriate and in good working condition and order and used as designed. Then there's the wires and connections, the modules and sensor, their installation . . . so many possible points for things to go wrong. A good repairer for this will just deal with what's presented - confirm what is wrong then see what the cause(s) for it are and how it might be repaired, checking and cross referencing to diagnosis for themselves, perhaps with some regard to reported history. There might be simple solution(s) to this but possibly it requires someone with the right, knowledge, training, experience and attitude and the correct tools to find them in an orderly manner. You have computers, electrics and mechanical, any or all could be contributing to your issue(s), the computer side seems to have the priority, at least at the the moment. I suggest you research and find someone or somewhere that knows what they're doing to at least do a proper report / initial diagnosis. Good luck.

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@gazwagon I echo Monkhai, no rush just next time the car is in with someone with the appropriate scan tool. All sounds very good, if that is the battery that came with the car forget about changing it just occasional preventative charges with a battery or hooked up on maintenance if the cars not moving for a week or two. The stop/start is designed not to operate under some circumstances and lower battery charge is one of them, recharge the battery by driving a reasonable distance without too much electrical load going or using a battery charger will top things up again. Things like air-con, steering, heated this, that and other, wiper motor(s) are bigger users of electric other than low constant drains that add up over time, at 40c the battery self-discharges twice as much as at 20c, plus the air-con and blower motor will working their socks off gulping the electric. Give that battery some occasional attention and it will give good reliable service for many years (lots more than VW say). Unless you have something added to your car don't worry about getting more CCA starting power, even when the batteries are too low in state of charge the engine starts, that's the problem this fools many into thinking the battery must be alright and they keep hammering the battery until it's too late. Over here owners often pay £200+ to £300+ as a 'distress' purchase when many times a proper (slow) recharge of the previous battery could more and more more service life. Good luck.

@AGFalco you've never had any damper "misting" then? (I'd never heard of this until this car, dampers leaking yes but "misting" with use, no. I did wonder if Europe got a different 1.2 engine (code).

If possible you want to give more than 30 minutes for surface charge to dissipate a few hours or next day, yes there will be a very slight drain from car just sitting but not enough to count. Sounds like you might have had the stop/start switched off or not a journey where it could really activate perhaps. I've not tested how high the state of charge is with stop/start on, suggested is 80% but I've not seen that written anywhere I've seen and it doesn't worry me as I will always fully recharge with the charger when I feel like it (such easy work anyway unlike most ,for me, loathsome PITA car work. Until my wife got the VW product I've only once (in 48 years) ever had to recharge a battery on my own car, and I've had 20-50 year old cars, and that one time was when I flatten the battery trying to start a V8 engine I thought I remembered and knew the firing-order so didn't marking things up, a Billy-big-*******s ego error I never made again. Proximity keys is another "aid" feature I can well live without - do make sure the keys are in a tin not seeking out the car particular the key not in current use. Never have a "spare" key always alternate the use (in whatever fashion/time-period that suits you) both (or all) so that batteries, remotes, cylinder locks and keyblades all get more even wear, plus it means you never lose or mislay keys or "spare" and you know the batteries aren't flat. My neighbour's 2021 Nissan was parked up for 2-3 months before I persuaded him it'd need charging to be sure it could be collected for mot and annual service, to my surprise it started but despite using my old trusted chargers I couldn't get the battery fully charged even off the car. I recharged it a couple more months later and a bit after that a Dealership/garage bought it, any money you like they sold it with the short life battery. Took a bit of effort to drive off the rust on the brake discs too, first time was empty dual-carriageway stuff and that didn't clear everything.

Traffic sign recognition is another hit and miss thing, especially given the state of roadside management over the last decade or so. Big traffic signs have disappeared into the overgrowth of our 3-world nation (at least the 2008 bankers are comfortable, probably retired abroad) speed sins can be hidden or partial hidden too. My neighbour's 2023 car was flashing warning as I accelerator after a village boundary as it couldn't see/make out the NSL sign that I could as a human. Mandatory speed limiters to be fitted to all new UK cars in 2024 - https://systemdrivingschool.co.uk/speed/ You may well have seen these but for others. VW SFD (1) - https://support.obdeleven.com/en/articles/5685742-what-is-sfd VW 'SFD2' - https://support.obdeleven.com/en/articles/9187989-does-obdeleven-work-with-vag-and-bmw-vehicles-manufactured-from-2024

You have a lot of things going on in your post, you need someone that knows about Favorit suspension, which is not me, but are you sure the noise is from the suspension, or underside of car, or front and not rear even. Going up hill or accelerating usually transfers the weight to the rear, this could take some load off the struts possibly causing issue if they or other parts are not correct or fitted correctly but then another part f the engine of car might be the cause of the noise. How much damage your father caused by hitting the kerb depends how hard he hit the kerb, if the front right wheel hit at an angle then it may dent the wheel without other damaged if the impact was light. You could try put that wheel on the rear better still as the spare to see if that changes the sound. For the front springs I don't know if Kayaba are good quality now or not, you certainly do not rely on past brand quality or reputation, as you may know the quality of many new made parts can be low to be polite. Haynes, like all databases including manufacturers, has errors and omissions so you do need to check and cross reference from other reliable sources that 350mm was correct. You also need to check parts are correct before you fit them, wrong parts get sent, or they are wrong specification and/or build from manufacturer or supplier. The height of the spring is just one dimension you also have to check the springs are the correct rate for your fathers car. When you say the gap with the Kayaba springs has doubled is this from previously worn out springs fitted or is the car sitting too high from factory standard (a 10mm difference when fitted is nothing)? Best way to check how the car sits is to park on level ground (car not loaded) and measure and record the distance on each wheel from the middle of the wheel hub to the lip edge of the wheel arch, this also compares side to side and front to back and even possibly diagonals. If you still have old worn spring and suspension on the rear then of course this will effect the readings and comparison to factory but is still useful for comparisons. There will be posts and threads here about suspension if not factory figures. Haynes may show "ground clearance" but unless it states from where to ground and load it might not help, figures could be from marketing brochures rather than technical measurements. As there are so many names and terms that are interchanged rather than say which I put the need to make sure all the suspension parts match to each other and the car and all are fitted correctly. I hope that helps a little generally.

@alep if you are still interested? I forgot I saw the following video about Carley. -

Gaz, hi, welcome. Sorry, some questions but hopefully save you more money, if it's not too late. The stop/start, er, stopping is the first warning of a battery in a lower state of charge but not necessarily that the battery needs changing (unless it's been left this way for a long time perhaps). Is there a reason why you need a "super start" battery? And is your present battery too bad to be recharged on an appropriate battery charger maintainer following the instruction in the car's 'Owner's Manual' and charger's booklet? We didn't get AGM batteries from factory here so is your present AGM battery from 2017 or newer, if so when was it fitted? Also if not factory, was it 'coded in' correctly when it was fitted? Batteries like about 20c weather for charging and discharging and AGM are fussy about engine bay heat so would have more insulation around them, we get about (usually) -5c to 30c where I am and I fitted an AGM (without full insulation for EFB battery as that was lost before we got the car). Your weather might be warmer than here. I hope I'm able to help you with getting more reliable useable use (for as long as possible) out of your existing battery as car batteries are probably still one of the most oversold car parts because of premature replacement, a waste of resources and money.

Despite what many think the German engineers aren't all they're cracked up to be (not as good as some and they themselves think they are). They also change their specifications. Silicate tea-bags anyone. Other than Germans I can't understand why other countries still hold the products in such high regard. UK I know about, marketing, and lobbying, is very good here, then we have snobbery. Your chap at the shop is like many, particularly in the motor trade, sooner lie than admit a mistake. Not all customers are angels or honest but most, here at least, will accept mistakes happen and many will be happy with an acknowledgement of this and a verbal apology, sorting things and putting them right is also appreciated by a customer (well most, not all). A better business tends to attract and keep better customers, I've got no time for bad businesses and or bad service but also no time for bad customers, customers that make (occasional) mistakes is a different matter.

Does seem a lot but - was full charge 12.7(8)v 100% from a battery charger or the car's stop/start perhaps 80(?)% full charge 12.4(5)v If car stop/start full charge of say 12.5v and if you allow a 0.2-0.3v drop for the car's systems working it could show 12.3v-12.2v. 12.2v is only 50% on the VW chart before any drain so 35% (at say 12.05v) seems less bad. Getting the battery too low and/or too often will shorten its reliable life. Hence VW going from saying change the battery at 5 years (far too premature for most then) in the Owners Manuals to change the battery at 4 years in later Owner's Manuals and why owners of 2020/1 and newer VW owner are having to change at even 3 years. If the car is not to be kept for many years, and/or the owner doesn't mind buying an expensive battery (and coding) it doesn't matter. If a battery is often low the alternator has to work harder so more wear, again this doesn't matter when the car is not so old. Some seem to rely on an expensive jump-starter pack as back up, another unnecessary big-boy-toy if not in business. a £30 charger maintainer and very occasional preventative recharging suits me better. Then there's the home or roadside 'breakdown' rescues . . . followed by £200+-£300+ distress (premature) battery purchases, then or later.

Possibly, but tyres are an extremely complex component on the car, I would guess (no real idea) that tread pattern and a lot more also contributes something. Generalisations are just that, but you have to start somewhere. Bit unfair to blame people for what they are told by others and then accept, truth and accuracy can be so subjective and truth and accuracy changes with time and with who (or what now and in the future) has and controls or hides or destroys, the information. Given the tyre labels I'd not fully trust what a tyre manufacturer puts on their label given the evidence of my own experiences, anyway VW owners more than most know test figures can be manipulated. Yes, and how is the chauffeuring going . . . 😄

I pressed the wrong key, doh! The VWŠkoda "service" and "maintenance" schedules in the UK barely cover servicing the engine let alone the whole car but to see a full list of timely services and maintenance is better than not. Many owners say they have this but when you check they haven't, late and missing work, often because of lower annual milage or to save money. No doubt there are some items that VWŠkoda push a little (or a lot!) early but nice to see when buying. Just to confirm a wagon is what we here call an estate (or German marques Combi, that's a van to me)? I can't remember if the rear seats fully fold on the Mk1 and Mk3 estate, they don't on the Mk3 hatchback. I did note you put 6-speed which is why I made sure I put 5-speed for my wife's to show the difference for info on oil change., also note my wife's car is 90 PS but I've driven a (1.0 litre VWSEAT) 6-speed 110 PS but with just the two of us in the car the difference wasn't really that noticeable other than for better and more economical driving to ignore the gear recommendation even more (the cars are yet to see the contours and traffic conditions ahead, the driver still has a little to do to drive the car). My wife's car has just turned 70,000 miles. I use 5W-30 engine oil but would probably use 0W-30 in a colder climate (IIRC Dealership has used 0W-30 at previous "service(s)"). If you have 10 VAG cars in the family then you are obviously committed, I'm sure the family would have saved lots of money on "services" and "maintenance" had they bought Japanese cars instead but I can't talk as I've spent (wasted) many (many) tens of thousands of pounds on maintaining old and brand new English cars. If I remember correctly from reading the posts and threads here 2016 (perhaps 2017 too) seems a sweet spot for the Mk3 (unlike 2015) other than perhaps noises from the underside of the car (suspension) but that might not be on 2016/7 cars I can't remember. The 1.2 TSI in my wife's car is fine (other than it's various noises but VW 4-pots engines I find rough sounding anyway and I'm used to English engines from the 1960s and 1970s). You might need to research whatever engine code you have in that 2016 1.2, and the turbo to 110, plus 6-speed gearbox but I can't remember seeing anything on them for the 2016 cars. Later cars have various problems with plenty of posts about those here. Note AG Falco keeps his car to a much (much) higher standard of maintenance than the very vast majority of owners. Well, that's everything I know.

A 2007 VAG product is very different to a 2016 VAG product, 2007 is a lot nearer when VW deserved more the now out of date good reputation, and a Mk1 Fabia is different to a Mk3 for build and reliability, or so I have picked up from reading the threads here. A matter I forgot about is that the Mk1 and Mk3 share the problem of outside water leaking on to the rear floor mat because of a seal that goes off, I must remember to gunk my wife's car so the water drains where it's supposed to. Another common thing is the resistor for the fan which seem to have batches of ones that don't last so that fan only works on full (4) not a big thing but like most stuff on a car a PITA to fit. ETA: to be continued ...

That Sir is the brilliant German engineers providing a back-up option of manual coordinated motor control - at no extra charge might I add. I would have guessed at a lever arrangement, but don't know, if possible tacking the shell off the mirror housing might expose things otherwise it might be you have to remove the mirror glass and its holding piece, which if so is often a lot easier said than done. You could have a look and see if there are any videos of Citigo or Ups or similar of the same age and mirror housing type and see if they show the repair or glass replacements. ETA: just looking at the parts and it certainly is cable operated and what a high cost for such a part as a whole unit.

See at about 4 mins for "acoustic conformation" -

Wouldn't a 2023 VW product have the additional lockouts to prevent some stuff, would it include stuff like this (I don't know). Have you had these systems before and know what they're like as some of them are very hit and miss and you could have a chapter, in not book, on reasons why they won't work reliably (like the lane "assist" and front collision prevention).add that in when considering risk. I'm not sure if the systems you mention are too low rent to reliably work on one click, perhaps they're not and are fine. I saw a video where I chap switched on some features with a more expensive scan tool than those you mention, the only one I remember is the horn sounding for door locking and he was worried it might disturb the neighbours late at night but no need to worry as the noise was very weak, hear the door locks and indictors about the same, on the video.

Let alone the bodywork of driver(s), passenger(s) and other road users or those nearby. I can understand the want for more power, though sometimes it's just figures on paper for egos but no matter how much power there is sometimes you might want more but much, much more often only a fraction or small fraction of the power available is needed or can be used, on the road at least. There's a joy in having something low power and actually driving it, some used to very power cars know/knew this.

Yes but you spend a lot more time on more frequent and in-depth servicing and maintenance work than the average owner, I'm not knocking that, I wish you were around to properly look after all of the cars I've had properly, I certainly paid more than enough to not have that done by most professionals.

Yeap taken as general information only, unless your driving the same cars as him with same wheels and tyre sizes. I am a bit biased as I took an instant dislike to him to save time. 😁 Not so wet roads are the ones that catch many out and a light rain after a longer dry spell. I always suggested to those buying rear wheel drive cars, particularly light (very light by modern standard) sportscars to buy them in autumn and drive them through winter to get used to them for next spring and summer, particularly two-seater softtops, many more better roof down driving days in winter than summer for the better driving roads. When the Mazda MX-5s were better s/h prices many not used to or returning to RWD would buy them in spring for a flurry of them against tress and lamp posts in autumn.

I'm not sure this bloke's videos are that good for average drivers and car owners and the videos I've seen relate to Beemers and faster Golfs (all black cars of course, to go with the upper arm muscles). But as always each to their own.

Perhaps if the tyres weren't so unnecessarily over wide then soft/hard, tread pattern and other designs of the tyre, and the cars weren't so heavy there might be less tyre noise about about, willy-waving gone mad.

Swapping from worn, aged tyres that will possibly have gone hard on the tread and sidewalls to new tyres that are more flexible on tread and sidewall with bring improvement to braking, steering, suspension, road holding, handling, noise and comfort. This of course is if the old tyres are worn and gone hard and the replacement tyres are of good quality, and the tyres are all at correct pressures and suspension in reasonable condition and function. New tyres "bedded-in". Wider contact patch doesn't necessarily mean more grip and though the contact patch might be wider it could also be shorter so no real difference to the actual area of contact. There used to be a marvellous website about tyres explaining well lots of information but unfortunately he went commercial and had to remove a lot of the information. Pages my turn up on archive sites, Tyre Bible (not the religious one). Don't get hooked on willy-waving, and measuring, car stuff do the research instead as it'll save you wasting time and money (been there, got the t-shirt had it fall to pieces . . .). IIRC the car was on 165/13 (ratios were 80 then unless low profile which would be 70!) if the OP was in England I'd strongly suggest buying Blockley, same tyre would be great for road use and many sports use. I put my completely factory standard (year or so old at the time) 130 LS on 185/70/13, so wider (and low-profile!) IIRC Goodyear Eagle (F1) and they made the handling great - but I couldn't take the wear with the mileage type I was doing at the time. When I changed the full set the tyre-fitter advised me to take it easier on the new (harder-wearing) tyres particularly until they were bedded in. What a difference in tyres, I took his advice. Had the Eagles been available in 165/80/13 the handling might have been better still (depending on driving techniques and preferences, the weight of the rear engine with rear wheel drive can be an acquired taste).

If it's a 2022 car and the battery is reasonably charged it will get through it (and probably longer) but better to take the opportunity to fully recharge the battery though as the car's doing nothing else. If it's a 2025 car it'll get through it (and probably) but it might be more noticeable and perhaps have a permanent weakness from the experience. The electric loads on newer cars is not like in the past, use, abuse and neglect of car batteries has become a lot more noticeable so much so that it's been reported on this site at least one Dealership offers a battery charging service, for £40. and it remains the number one cause of breakdown call outs. It's very rarely the actual battery at fault most often to do with the car's driver/owner, occasionally a charging system issue. The 28.2.2022 'Owner's Manual' even has a section for 'Using the jump starting cable' (must be for some of you lads here 😁). The following is from the '12 volt vehicle battery' section. - And from the 25.11.24 'Owner's manual'(the latest one listed 'Protection against discharging the 12v battery'.- As always it's each to there own, it's only advice (from decades of experience of dealing with neighbours and friends batteries. Leaving a 20220or 2025 VWŠkoda standing unused with the battery connected up for 4 weeks, particularly if it's not in a reasonable state of charge, will have an effect on the battery and depending on the initial state of charge, it's age, use/abuse/neglect may have a permanent effect. These batteries aren't cheap (then there's the VW 'coding' if that's a concern. But as always it's each to there own.

I'm £429 sore 🙃 that's not an insignificant amount of money to be conned out of. If this wasn't a UK car con, where buyers and owners expected to get lied to, owners would be up in arms, America and we'd all banned together for a class action. As you say I do have it's been done but at every 5 years it'd need doing again this year ! ! Having invested time and hassle as well as money I'd sooner she keeps the car as generally it's not a bad car, the very loud underside creaking in cold winter is very annoying but at other times I can put up with it but each traffic-calming hump, pothole, dropped-kerb it's a reminder of poor quality parts, I've never had a car so bad for this and I've had 20-50 year old BL cars! my wife retires at the back end of next year and will have more time to think about she wants a change of car and with the small fortunes I've spent and wasted on most of my cars I can't say anything to stop this.