Routemaster1461

I thought all indicators were on the left nowadays, although it is possible that some Japanese cars have the indicators on the right.

I had this issue. They thought it was a software issue, and that they needed the car all day. I had a courtesy car (a Superb) booked for that day (Friday) and the weekend and Monday, in case the update ran over. Turns out my software was up to date and more investigation pointed to a fault with an aerial, sorry I can't remember its name. That arrived on the Thursday and was fitted that day. Had the Superb for a whole week, and have had no issues since.

A higher power engine doesn't necessarily mean worse fuel consumption. Based on the official figure of cars with three different power outputs, the best consumption is frequently obtained from the middle power. The low power ones frequently have to be driven harde to maintain progress. The fourth point is only prtially true. At current prices the first year tax ranges from £0 to £2605, wich is based on CO2 emissions. However for subsequent years every vehicle pays the same £180. So, if you buy new, you get stung with a high emission car, but buying used you should only pay the £180.

OK if you actually have a manual and it is in the car. At present my manual is on the computer desk next to me!

Whichever type you fit, don't go for a cheap one. The keys appear to be sensitive to brand, Panasonic being most often recommended. Also, it is sensible to carry a spare battery in your wallet/purse and one in the car to avoid being stranded if a battery fails away from home.

The diesel will probably be much better up hill. I have had diesel and now have two petrol cars, and this is where I notice the difference most.

Bear in mind that the DSG is a dual clutch system, so one or both may need replacing.

Because all diesels produce soot. This is trapped in the diesel particulates filter. This fills and should be regenerated by the soot particles being burned off. Doesn't always happen, the filter clogs and the engine won't run. Also oil burning produces inorganic particles due to the sulphur and phosphorus compouds in the oil. The low SAPs oil sp[ecified reduces this but doesn't eliminate it totally, so on very high mileage cars this ash can block the filter. Also bear in mind that petrol cars have GDPs (gasoline particle filters). Although there doesn't appear to be an issue with these a there s far less soot produced than from a diesel, the issue of ash may potentially be an issue for high mileage cars.

I used to be a fan of diesel. However, the general political attitude to diesel and loss of a diesel car in a crash made me think. I bought a PSA 1.2 110bhp car and it is fine. It returned over 54mpg on a 3 day break, and performs well enough, apart from not enough pull uphill. When I wanted to change our other car we bought a 1.5 TSi Karoq manual. Fuel consumption is pretty good at ~50pg, but I don't drive particularly hard. My only real issue is lack of torque at low engine speed. There are several issues I have with diesel 1. The cost. Diesel cars cost more to buy, not sure how much at present, but it used to be ~£1500 2. Cost of fuel. I have a speadsheet to calculate the breakeve mpg to cost less in fuel. At present prices with my petrol Karoq doing 50mpg, I would need to get 57 mpg to break even, and a lot better to make a significant cost saving. 3. The potential problems with Adblue systems. I had an early Adblue tank failure, luckily covered by warranty, and I still see so many posts on other forums about issues diagnosing the problem and the costs associated with repair. 4. The ever increasing isues with using diesel cars, with (I beleive) some London Boroughs refusing to issue parking permits to diesel owners.

Try pressing the bottom left button on the right hand side of the steering wheel. Using the scroll above the button, rotate to select navigation, then press the scroller. Then scroll again until it shows what you want and press again.

On many cars pushing and holding the locking button will deactivate or activate locking.

Try this. On the touchscreen go Vehicle/settings/Opening and Closing.

I tend to favour ordinary CC with distance braking. I don't like the way ACC always defaults to the current speed limit after the initial setting.

Some Citroens which had blind spot monitoring as standard spec are currently being delivered without monitoring, apparently due to shortages caused by the chip shortage.

Although this question may have been better in the Kamiq forum, there is so much in common between many Skoda models, and as far as I can tell, nowhere on Briskoda where general questions can be asked. I have a Karoq, but I always look on the Kamiq and Kodiaq forums, as there may be some threads that help me and I can contribute about common issues.

This issue, although it seems simple, is quite complicated. Originally the idea was that putting the new tyres on the rear was that, in an emergency situation the car would not oversteer, and begin to rotate, potentially hitting an obstruction rear first. The car would tend to carry on forwards giving some chance of control. Unfortunately putting new tyres on the rear does not necessarily mean this will happen. If you have part-worn premium tyres on the front and new worst tyres on the market on the rear you may well have more grip at the front and the car may spin. It would be better to say that the best performing tyres should be on the rear, and who is able to say which have the best grip. Some people think that it is more important to have the best grip at the front to give optimum braking and steering performance. As I've had two cars written of when cars pulled out in front of me or inexplicably stopped in my path, I would rather have best braking. Even though in both cases I was on premium tyres these didn't save me they may have reduced my speed more than a cheaper tyre. I was watching a tyre comparison video the other day and I was shocked by how much worse the wet braking was on the cheapest tyres in comparison to the premiums. It was the thing two or three years ago to have new tyres on the rear, and there was a lot of debate on forums. It doesn't seem to be so common now, and the people who fit my tyres are not recommending new on the rear now. It appears to be your choice.

Just to satisfy my curiosity, how are you aware that a regeneration is in progress? On one of my previous cars I could tell because the fuel consupmtion went up considerably and performance felt different, and on another I couldn't tell at all. There were owners who fitted diodes near the mirrors to monitor when the mirror heating was on, as the cars switched on electical accessories to increase alternator and engine load.

Had a diesel Superb as a loan car. As I didn't know how long I would have it for (turned out to be 7 days) I put in 4 small top-ups, min 5L, max 8 L. Only two of these top-ups caused the gauge to register.

My wife accidently pulled the brake on one of our cars at ~50mph when I asked her to get something out of the glove box. A lot of noise, but easily controlled. As its, I beleive, an electrically activated cable brake I doubt that the abs could moderate it. In respose to Karock's comment above, automatic brakes would not help initially if the driver had been incapacitated, but may if that incapacitation was leading to a collision.

Not only does the car need to be compatible, but the phone needs to be as well. Check on the internet to see if your phone supports wireless.

Some cars have an economy mode which protects the battery from going flat. On Citroens this cuts in after about 30 minutes and shuts down all of the unnecessary electrical functions. If this happens during an update it is possible/likely that this will interupt an update and completely screw up the system. So on a Citroen it is not the battery going flat that causes the issue and a charger would be no use. I don't know whether Skoda have anything similar, as I've never sat in my car with the radio on long enough to find out, but I wouldn't risk it. My car has decided to update itself a couple of times, and apart from the difficulty of getting the update to actually work, it hasn't taken a long time. Also if one of these semiautomatic updates is interrupted they restart when the car is started again.

I have reported what is written in my book. I may have to call and find out whether it is correct. But it is probably irrelevant for me as I can't remember the last time I've had to tighten a wheelnut. And if you needed to on the road, who carries a torque wrench in the car?

Definitely been changed to 120Nm.

The car has been in for a week with an SOS warning. It wasn't software as that was the latest version, not the OCU, and eventually diagnosed as an aerial. This has been replaced, so we'll se how it goes. The issue that caused the recall, beleive it or not, is a simple misprint on page 180. The original text gives the torque for the wheelnuts as 20Nm, and has had to be corrected to 120Nm. A small typo, but the error could cause a major incident, so I understand why Skoda have made the recall.

It was a cheap option on my Karoq. I should have ordered it but I didn't.