Routemaster1461

Nitrogen filling is basically a scam. It is a fact that the oxygen molecules are slightly smaller than the nitrogen molecules, and will leak out faster. But it is such a minute difference that in practical terms it is negligable. And that is it in terms of facts. The basic laws of physics and chemistry mean that nitrogen doesn't heat up faster or slower than air, or that there is a difference in compressibility, therefore comfort is not improved or made worse.Any other difference claimed is that it will prevent degradation of the inside of the tyre, but tyres will wear out and degrade on the outside faster than inside. Nitrogen fill is require on aircraft tyres annd is used on Formula 1 tyre. Fr anything else you are paying for no benefit and money is wasted. Try reading about it on a recognised site like AA or RAC, not a tyre company site. In fact here is what one of the tyre suppliers, Protyre, say. 'In our experience, the benefits of inflating tyres with nitrogen are so imperceptible that justifying the inconvenience and expense can be hard to do. It is generally more worthwhile investing in a tyre pressure gauge or visiting your local Protyre garage who can perform a free tyre check for you and advise on the correct tyre pressures for your vehicle.'

The indirect type of TPMS isn't really suitable for sudden losses of pressure, as it relies on the system noticing the faster rotation of a wheel over an unknown lenght of time. A sudden loss of pressure will probably be too quick for the indirect system to recognise. Similarly the indiect system will not warn you if a tyre has gone flat overnight as the system requires input from the ABS system. The direct system should though.

I saw ORBISON (ORB 150N) the other day. Gov.uk says it is on a Land Rover, but I thought it was different. May be able to find out what it is if I trawl through my dashcam

I have had mine stall a few times. I learned in the 60s when most cars didn't have synchromesh 1st gears, and it was difficult to slow and select 1st gear without stopping. This means that I have a habit of slowing down then trying to move away in second gear. This is when I stall it. I watch a lot of driving instruction videos and on those the drivers almost always select first gear whilst still moving. I will try to adjust my driving style to prevent a recurrence.

Even with the matrix headlights you have to change the lights via the settings. I would suggest this is a myth, unless it has come in very recently.

Surely the creep function of a DSG will stop an auto car rolling back on a slight incline. This may mean that the hill hold is un-necessary ans is use of the handbrake?

Obviously only with DSG, which I don't have.

I have Eco and 'custom' (whatever the term is) but I use neither.

I only use normal and sport in my manual Karoq. The only difference I can tell is that the steering isn't quite as light in sport.

As far as I am aware the heat supplied to most petrol and diesel cars is supplied from the waste heat from the combustion of fuel. When the car is first started water only circulates within the engine block as the thermostat cuts off water flow to the radiator. If the heater is on the water will gradually warm up and the heater will slowly become effective. The only way to get anything approaching instant heat is to have an electric heating elemet to provide it, and that will potentially have an effect on fuel consumption.

I think you mean Eddie Stobart. The Eddie Stobart name is used nowadays but there are far, far fewer on the road. The company was mainly taken over by Muller, of Muller Rice fame, and the majority of the trucks are now branded as Culina. In our area these trucks are most frequently being used to service Morrissons supermarkets. Another name which was just as famous on the continent was Norbert Dentressangle. This company was bought out and is now XPO logistics and is frequently seen here.

Having set up a digital speedo in a vehicle, I know that the reading can jump all over the place, depending on how many satellites can be seen. And a satellite speedo would be absolutely no good in tunnels where there is no satellite coverage.

Just looked at the Skoda brochure. The 1.0 https://cc.skoda-auto.com/gbr/en-GB/engine-scenic?activePage=engines&color=K4K4&configurationId=&extraEquipments=&id=GBR%3Bskoda%3B2024%3BNW4DQ4%3B0%3BGYOKYOK%3Bmda20240328103218%3Ben-GB%3B%3B61008%3B61528&interior=HN&modifiedPages=&snapshotVersion=297fde02-1373-481f-a2c8-610cc3ef4274&trimline=NWD|SE6152861008&visitedPages=trimlines|colorsKamiq is still available with DSG

Bear in mind that only one of those adjusts level. The other adjusts left and right. Many cars have a level switch which allows you to adjust the level depending on load, don't know if any Karoqs have this. Mine doesn't as it has LED headlights., but all of my other recent cars have had it. Lastly, it isn't always necessary to lower the lights for travel to Europe. My car has an adjustment in the menus to change from driving on the left to driving on the right. Again this may not apply to all Karoqs but it is worth a look.

in the UK the speedo can over-read by 10%, most seem to be about 5%. By law the speedo must not under-read at all.

I think there is some confusion about eco mode. There is a selection of normal, sport and economy mode on the central screen, but I thought the discussion was the little eco symbol that appears on the virtual cockpit. Thee is no control over this and it usually appears under very liht engine loading, for nstace, maintaining speed down a gradient where a trailing throttle would slow the car down. This is when 2 cylinder mode cuts in on a petrol engine.

Let me rephrase my question. What happens on a manual diesel?

The steering whell should be properly centred when new. It can become uncentred if someone has done any work on the suspension of if the wheels are misaligned due to damage caused by kerbing or hitting a pothole.

With the petrol engine the Eco mode indicates that the engine is in 2 cylinder mode. Anyone know what happens on a diesel?

Usually you only have to press and hold the internal dash button to activate or deactivate automatic door locking.

Depends what you mean by in town. I suggest you set the car to show 'since start' consumption. Even where I live at the edge of a rural town, it takes quite a few miles from start to achieve 30mpg, and an awful lot more to reach 40mpg. If your journeys are short, less than about 5 miles I wouldn't expect to exceed 30mpg by much. On my regular journeys to and from London avoiding motorways, a distance of ~100 miles, mine gives 48-52mpg (computer figure), but if the trip is only 40 miles I'm lucky to reach 45mpg. Also, mine kangaroos a little on the first 100 metres or so, only after a cold start. Not bad enough to worry about though.

I never allow mine to switch off when in use. If I can see an image on the screen I know it is working. If the image times out, then I have no idea if the camera is recording.

You can use a USB C to USB A cable. Be aware that when I first did this the dashcam thought it was connecting to a computer, and my cable had to be power only/no data cable. This turns off when the engine stops. You can tell if they are live as they are illuminated white.

Cars go via Emden, and they can sit in the docks there for some time waiting for a place on a ship.

Plain white is apparently no longer available. The only white is Moon White metallic.