kodiaqsportline

I don't know how the insurance works in that instance, but it makes no sense to me. Assuming the driver of the Alfa ( Halfords employee ) was found to be at fault then I'm confused. Unless you specifically name a driver on your policy, or have an ' Any driver policy' ( do those even exist these days ? ) then wouldn't the policy resort to 3rd party fire and theft? So how come the Alfa owners insurance is paying ou the market value of the car if the driver at the time wasn't named on the policy? 🤪 It sounds as if it's being treated as if the Halfords driver ( or whoever was responsible ) had crashed in to the owners car. In that case, his insurer has paid out and any additional losses would be claimed against the 3rd party insurer in normal fashion. So what's the problem? I wouldn't trust that press article as far as I could throw it as they're only interested in sensationalisim - anything that makes headlines. In reality there's no story. Why did his insurance rise £300? Why does anyones insurance rise? Nobody, not even his insurance broker can pinpoint why it's risen by £300. They're just guessing.

No. Aren't trade plates only required for cars that are untaxed?

Are you saying your typical driving will be city / short trips and you intend to change from fixed to variable servicing?

My tuppence worth is if anyone is at the stage they need to ask if a tyre needs changin die to tread depth, then it does. Here in the UK, the legal min. is 1.6mm. That's not to say a 1.6mm tyre will perform the same as a 3mm tyre, it just says the min is 1.6mm. Personallly I'd never let my tyres down to that depth. Surely the only arguement for keeping them is based on cost?

Just received an email introducing my local dealer's new website, latest offers and cars they have in stock. Given the new Kodiaq is now available to order, I can't believe the deals they're offering on the current model - £2500 PCP contribution 😲 I bought my car in 2020 when the first very mild facelift was announced and the offers then were £4000 contribution on the current car and £3000 on new facelift which hadn't even reached UK showrooms. Perhaps Skoda themselves think folk may baulk at the price of the new car and chose the current model.

Few people buy the SE so their 'from' pricing pretty much irrelevant. Moving to the 1.5 SE-L, that's now in luxury VED band 🤪 I guestimated the basic SportLine would probably be around the £45k mark with the new SportLine PHEV coming in north of £50k. I think those guesses might be accurate when the Sportline is available to order later in the year. At that sort of money it's going to suffer from eyewatering depreciation. Yet more evidence of Skoda loosing it's mojo. If I'm to suffer that sort of depreciation and pay an extra £400 a year in tax for the privelage of driving a +£40k car, I ain't going to be driving one with a Skoda badge on it

Fair enough. Have you ever talked to a car salesperson before, because given those comments, I find it strange why you're complaining. I've ben buying cars for 40 years and I expect porkies and BS from sales. I take it as a given. It happens in most sales environments, not just cars. Tthe most successful salespeople are the ones who BS the most. If you didn't BS you wouldn't last very long in the industry. But back to my comment above. What evidence do you have that the salesperson was going to sell on your data? Thus far all you say "it sounds dodgy". Each to their own, but I cannot understand why anyone would happily pass on contact numbers, email addresses, etc and then object to giving them their DoB ? PS - who's saying the sales person is telling porkies? If they genuiniely believe in the info they're passing on, that's not telling porkies, they simply may just have it wrong.

This sounds really stupid, but next time it happens, try pressing the dead centre of the stop/start button. My car started suffering from this, garage couldn;t replicate the issue when the looked at it therefore wouldn't sanction a replacement under warranty. It was the service desk who told me this and it's always worked for me. As per above, it's a cheap fix to replace the button, but never bothered now that I know to press the dead centre of the button.

Is it a new or used car you're buying? As far as I can remember, dealers have always asked my for my driving licence therefore they have my DOB. To obtain the original V5C for a newly registered vehicle, doesn't the DVLA require the DOB of the first registered keeper? Personally I have no objection to them knowing my DOB. The garage will need to contact me so I've already handed over my email, home phone, mobile and home address. What's to stop them from selling on that info for marketing? I don't see it as a problem. Besides, I receive a tonne of other marketing junk every week. If anyone cold calls me I tell them to F.O.

Can anyone help? Swing radio in a 2014 Yeti. Problem: Cannot hear other person when receiving call thru BT. I've been able to connect the phone via BT. It recongnises the phones, contact etc all imported. When receiving a call, the phone rings thru the system, the MFD displays the callers name, I press the phone button on steering wheel but can't hear them. However the caller is able to hear me via the car's microphone. If the radio is on, it doesn't mute and switch to caller, ( switch to BT ) it just continues to play radio. BT is unavailable when pressing mode. If however I play music on the phone, it comes thru the car speakers via BT no problem. Have tried both Samsung S23 and A51 with exactly the same results. Any idea what the issue is ? I've only been told it used to work OK, but I haven't seen it working properly so that may be a red herring. Cheers.

I'm reading some questionable answers above. . Perhaps an explanation is necessary: The OP's question isn't really how much was it worth when new, he want's to know how much it's worth now. ( it's new price bares no relation the used value so is pointless). 1: What's it worth? It's worth what someone will pay for it. As above go to several car buying sites and obtain prices - it cost you nothing. That's the price your car is worth. 2: It's gone down £3000 in a year? Everyone will have their own thoughts on what consitutes heavy depreciation but in general, if you don't want to suffer the heaviest depreciation, don't sell a car so soon after you've bought it. Of course another way of looking at this is if you're surprised at it depreciating £3000 in a year, could it be you paid too much for it in the first place? 3: SEL Executive 1.0tsi DSG in metallic black. Difficulty finding a used one to compare. When buying cars we should all remeber one thing - that with the very few exceptions, short lived or special edition models are generally worth the same as a std model after a few years. Also car with options may make it more desirable, but add very little value. So if a similar car is hard to find on Autotrader, just look at an SEL ( or similar model spec ) with the same year and miles. Of course that's the retail price you're looking at, not the price your car is worth. 4: Who cares what a new car cost 12mth ago - it's what it costs new today that counts. Just had a look on DriveTheDeal. Kamiq 1.0tsi DSG SEL Exec lists at £28600, £29300 with met paint. DTD are saying I can buy that car for £25442 If a garage offers £20k for your 23 plate car with almost 6k on the clock, they'd have to retail it for min £22k, probably nearer £23k to pay for their overheads + make profit. So if I'm in the market for a 1.0tsi SEL exce in metallic black, do I buy a 2 owner used car from a dealer at £23k or £25442 for a brand new car registered in my name? Everyone will have their own opinion, personally I'd choose the latter. Now you're enting a whole different ball game because they've introduced another car into the equation. They're not really saying your car is worth £18,000, they're saying it's worth £18,000 if changing to that Kodiaq. They may offer you £20k for the car if you;re buying a new Kodiaq. Basically their price is meaningless unless you know what profit margin they have on the used Kodiaq. My advice would be to treat the sale of your car and the purchase of the Kodiaq as two seperate transactions. 1: Get the best price for your car from one of those buying websites 2: Go back to the dealer and say sorry I'm not going to buy your car. WeBuyAnySkoda are offering me £20k and ACME_Skoda have a similar car to yours for £500 less so obviously it's better for me to do that. As I say, none of us know what profit margins your dealer has to play with but if I were a betting man, I'd say your dealer's 'cost-to-change' offer will all of a sudden decrease. Hope that helps.

It's a lot of words because other people coming here to read these things get it wrong. And the reason they get it wrong is because people do not explain things. Regardless, you should have 14 days to withdraw from any credit agreement (legal cooling off period), but you may lose any credit incentives like free services / warranty etc. that comes with the finance. The T&Cs could be completely different to those that VWFS have for their agreements. The OP is clearly asking about settlement. You've replied with an answer about cancellation. That's confusing as hell for anyone wishing to know about settlement.

For the most part, I think headlights work fine, certainly the factory fitted stuff. But we don't live in a perfect flat smooth road surface world. When going over any traffic calming measure, even the best setup lights in the world are going to dazzle oncoming traffic when the whole car raises and lowers. As you climb a hill and the oncoming appears on the brow of that hill, the lights are going to dazzle you because both cars are not at the same attitude. How do they intend to solve that? Of course it's not just cars. Mr Cyclist has his or her powerful LED light ( totally unneccesary for road use ) beaming ahead at any angle. Of course the lycra mob who all love to tell you they've bought the best most expensive gear, also have a ruddy LED attached to the top of their helmet - Powerful twin bar lights and a light on their helmet? It's like some alien spaceship coming towards you. And everything made all the worse in the rain. I get the problem, but unless we go back to halogen, I just don't see where the solution lies. PS. all of this reminds me of the days post laser eye surgery. Anyone had a similar experience? I spend the following 48hr indoors with the blinds drawn, only ever venturing out for a short walk at night. However I'll never forget walking along the road in the wee hours when a car with LED lights approached - the piercing bright light blinded so bad it gave me a splitting headache afterwards.

I don't get the argument. These things do not come free. If VW and SEAT are adding an extra year then I'm sure both Skoda and Audi will argue that VW and SEAT have already built the additional warranty in to the price of their used cars. If you want 'piece of mind' ( whatever that is ) then just buy an extra year warranty to make it a level playing field. Not sure if it's still true but when I bought a new SEAT it came with 3yr warranty but only 2yr roadside. Did I think I was a 'bum deal'? Given the Ateca was so much cheaper than it's VW or Audi counterparts, no I didn't. Doesn't your argument also hold true for servicing? Why does maintenance and service prices differ for each VW Group brand when the engine is exactly the same throughout? Doesn't your argument hold true with PCP offers etc? The four brands all offer different interest rates despite all being financed by VWFS. t's like wanting an Audi to have the same warranty as a VW, serviced at SKODA prices and costing the same as a SEAT. These are four different brands offering different products, you can't pick and choose what you want from each.

Buy a better car No seriously, I believe drive mode select was an optional extra on SE and SE Drive. ( £105 back in 2020 ? ) Your car obviously doesn't have it.

Here's a tip for anyone who doesn't know how modes affect economy or think there's no difference. Set your display to show intantaneous fuel consumption and then change modes in various situations whilst you drive along and you'll see what affect it's has on economy. What do modes do? To take it to the extremes, ECO will try to maintain the highest gear possible without labouring the engine. Sport on the otherhand will change gear later without redlining the rev counter. I'm not saying these figures are true, just using it as an example - If you travel at a steady 30mph on the flat, ECO may select gear 6 whereas NORM may select gear 5 and SPORT gear 4. That's why ECO will be more economical in certain situations. However if you want to accelerate fast or get a heavy car moving, is it sensible to select a high gear and keep your foot depressed on the accelerator for what seems like forever? In certain situations therefore, Normal or even Sport will be more economical. Motorway driving? I get why someone would select ECO for around town ( as long as it's not a hilly area ) but why SPORT on a motorway? Irrespective of what mode you're in, each mode will have selected top gear so it won't make any difference. Bottom line is if you're looking to save fuel then use as light a right foot as possible.

I fail to see the point of Parking Package Plus. I get Park Assist ( which I have ) and I get why people would want area view but I can't think of any reason why I'd want both. Skoda have always used 'value' as their trump card but to my eyes, they continue to dig their own grave. If I were compelled to pay the additional luxury VED , I guarantee a Karoq would never be on my radar, and that's coming from someone who thinks the Karoq was Skoda's best product. Race Blue still remains a no cost option on the config I'm using for the Sportline, but I note things like sunroof are no longer available. Adaptive cruise etc remain costly options. Such things are becoming std on many cars, even some cheap basic cars have it these days. And to think that's for Skoda's old-school ICE engines - what will the pricing be like when Hybrid comes along? Would I buy a Karoq today? Nope. I'd take something like a Tucson Hybrid over the Karoq 1.5 DSG. Or If I were paying the luxury tax, a BMW X1 for not much more. Not that I've looked in to it, but when I say for not much more, when factoring in deprectiaion, that X1 may even prove to be cheaper than any Karoq listing over £40k.

Sorry, might be too late for this to have any affect if OP was going to the garage on Friday, but just for the record.... 😲 After everything that's been written, why are people still getting this sooooo wrong? If there's a Briskoda Admin person reading this, perhaps it would be a good idea to have a post re: early PCP settlement that people can refer to rather than folk like me having to correct misleading information. Everyone: If you CANCEL a PCP arrangement then as with any finance agreement, under UK law, the Consumer Credit Act allows 14 days to withdraw without penalty ( commonly known as the cooling off period ). But the OP does not want to cancel the agreement ( few people do ), he want's to SETTLE the agreement, that's to say he want's to fulfill it. Under a PCP arrangement, you can settle the agreement at anytime - forget all about the 14 days cooling off, it does not apply to settlement, only to cancellation. If you cancel an agreement then any incentives would have to be paid back. If however you settle an agreement, you keep the incentives, regardless of when you settle. OP - check with the dealer who the finance is with, but if it's a VW Group dealership then there's a good chance it's VWFS. And yes, VWFS provide PCP finance on used cars... https://customer.vwfs.co.uk/car-finance-options/helping-you-choose/financing-used-vehicles.html I haven't used VWFS to settle an agreement since 2020 and I believe they still work in exactly the same way: 1. Take out a PCP agreement, 2. Give it a couple of days, couple of weeks, couple of months, couple of years - whatever you want then log in to your online account with VWFS and request a settlement figure. 3. If it's after a few days, the only additional payment should be an administration fee of around £20-£30. Now I say should be, but I'm not up to speed with current T&C. The reason I'm hesitant is I bought a Toyota back in August and did exactly the same as I've always done with VWFS however they hid behind some ambiguous statement in their T&C that said a charge may be applied according to government rules. Well a charge was applied - about £600, but nobody could tell me those government rules or how the figure was calculated. ( I'm still waiting to hear back from the financial ombusman on a ruling). Basically Toyota are saying we may charge whatever we like and don't have to show you how the sum was arrived at. They kept referring to the government website buy never divulged where on that website it mentioned anything about max. charges that can be applied. 7 months on and I've still never found them! Toyota Finance are the only company that I've come across who charge this fee for setttling a PCP agreement but I've a hunch if they get away with it, others may also apply a charge, so whatever finance agreement you're asked to sign, pay particular attention to the section on early settlement. Hope that helps.

Certainly used to be the case, but there are massive changes coming in the EV market With Dacia and the Chinese announcing cheap EV's, The big guns have little choice but to reduce prices or die. I'd say the Dacia Spring is as much an EV gamechanger as Tesla has been.

Discs and pads must be about the most common subject on all VW group platforms. 'Made of cheese' is a popular description. The ACC itheory is rubbish. The only common denominator is vehicles with electronic handbrakes. I'd suggest that's the culprit. Don't know if you've seen any of my posts about the subject but at just over 13k miles, my Kodiaq failed it's 1st MOT. It was taken for a brake check at ATS prior to the MOT, I was advised the brakes would need to be changed within the year. I then took the car for a service at Skoda and they said much the same. The car then went for an MOT elsewhere and failed due to the brakes. I accepted they needed changing but as I've said many times on this forum, if we're disappointed in the longevity of the original parts, what's the sense in replacing them with the same OEM parts? So with that in mind, if you've covered 36k and have gone thru 2 sets of OEM discs and pads then it comes as no surprise to me that they're an advisory. What did I do? Well I accepted what the MOT tester said. (It was only when the car was put on a rolling road that the problem was found to be worse than they first thought). Even if they were replacing them at half price there was no way I was going to replace the originals with the same parts. What I did was go to EuroCarParts, select branded discs and pads, and used their fitting service - all for a fraction of the price quoted by Skoda, cheaper than the fast-fit centres wanted, and cheaper than my local indi's wanted. Forums? Forums are full of armchair experts telling you everyone is wrong and what not to do. Few people ever say what you should do, or where you should go to have work carried out. Aparently dealers only exist to screw you and you should never trust a thing they say. Despite the above saga, and without even a photo, I actually had people on here telling me that my original brakes were perfectly OK and that the three different people who examined my brakes were all lying. That's armchair experts for you. I replaced them with Bosch discs and pads so there's some ammunition for the armchair experts to tell me they're crap too. The parts came to around £110 and fitting was something like £70 using a garage from EuroCarParts ' Fit it for me' facility. As soon as they were replaced it was a different car. I hadn't realised just how much of a noise the old OEM rust buckets were making - I'd just grown used to it over time. Hope that helps. https://www.eurocarparts.com/brake-discs

2020 Just taking a guess here - Does it have personalisation? I don't know newer models but seem to remember seeing from the brochure that 'personalisation' was removed from the options list at some point and replaced with 'a third key'. The popular school of thought was it had something to do with the lack of chips, just like Canton was removed from the options.

It's more simple than that ( or at least how it works on my car ). If you unlock the car with key 1 and save the seat memory settings then they will be saved to key 1. If you unlock the car with key 2, change the seat position then save it, it the new setting will be saved to key 2. No prizes for guessing how to save them to key 3

Can you lift the bonnet and post a close up picture of a headllight unit.

The location of the screw means any repair would still affect the rigidity of the tyre. No reputable firm would attempt a repair so close to the sidewall so would have thought all tyre centres would all recommend the tyre is replaced. A self-sealing tyre only enables you to get to a tyre centre, it's a temporary fix, not a permanent fix.

Registered Nov 2020 = original manufacturers warranty + recovery ended Nov 2023 Car bought April 2023 - came with 2yr warranty = ends 2025. It's the roadside recovery I don't understand. They've added the 2yr to the original warranty? That's odd. It's usually 2yr from the time of purchase. I'd double check that. If you took out a 2yr Service Plan Plus then: Nov 2024 you should get oil + inspection + pollen + plugs. Nov 2025 you should get oil + inspection + extended scope Now if it were me, I'd take the basic 2yr service Plan i.e. Nov 2024 oil + inspection + pollen Nov 2025 Oil + inspection + extended scope and I'd organise the plugs to be changed in Nov 2024 seperately. As for the air filter - it should cost no more than £10 and is an easy 1min DIY job, and I certainly won't be waiting until year 6. I'll change it myself at year 4. In fact thinking on it, I'll change it right now. ( car is 3.5yr old ). Air filters are typically changed every 2yr, perhaps sooner depending on what part of the world you live. I might only change it every 6yr if I lived on the moon. When I bought my plan, they also offered a 3yr service plan - not sure if they still offer that.