Paws4Thot

Cite from Motor Vehicle Construction and Use Regs needed to justify this argument.

Is it the same size as the road tyres? I've had similar where the spare tyre (not the wheel but the tyre) was an odd size so I bought a same size tyre. If the tyre sizes match, just peel the sticker off.

Mibbae aye, mibbae nay. It will depend on wheel (and tyre) sizes rather than just PCD though.

There should also have been an alphanumeric code associated. That would mean more than a vague narrative hint that you appear to have a fault somewhere in the fuel injection system. If you don't have that code, get the car scanned again, using VCDS or OBD II and make sure you get the code rather than just the text this time.

To clarify, 18C is the lowest cited temperature offered, or I probably would have used a lower value for shortish runs when I was wearing a jacket.

Weak battery?

After maybe 5_000 km, the centre or edge wear I cited up-thread would be measurable with a depth gauge.

My calendar says "It's Autumn". Has your regular filling station maybe started supplying "Winter diesel" early (relative to weather)?

For every gallon of hydrocarbons your car burns it creates slightly over a gallon of water. This is secondary school level chemistry.

Since when is 8 not more statistically significant than one?

I'd start with a deep load test on the battery. Here in the UK most places will do this for free conditional on you buying the new battery from them if needed.

Ballcocks! A mate of mine taxied a Superb with Stop/Start in urban traffic and the battery lasted 3 years before the Stop/Start ceased to operate.

Delta P. VAG standard TPMS uses derived pressure from the ABS sensors and not actual pressure.

The answer is surely "Do the tyres have edge wear (pressure too low) or centre wear (pressure too high) at your preferred pressure?"

In the alternator drive pulley yes. I've had both of the issues I suggested as possible, and a competent local garage will can diagnose and repair if you wait for the actual failure.

Try cleaning the fuel tank vent (visible with the filler cover off) using a pipe cleaner or similar).

It's probably an indication that either the exciter wire or the sprague clutch is starting to go. Have a hundred quid ready in case the clutch breaks but don't worry unless/until the light either doesn't come on when you switch the ignition on or you start getting graceful degradation of the electrics.

VW type 1, Hillman Imp, as @Stonekeeper hints at some marks of Ford Zephyr/Zodiac... Ok, not in the grille, but in a front wing or under the rear number plate. And that's before I mention that some type 1s had the fuel filler under the front luggage cover...

Typo corrected inline, bold caps.

Ah, I'd have suggested an oil change if you'd said that first. Still it is what it is, so oil change next, and then wonder about the oil pump.

This description indicates either the RHR bulb or the RHR cluster earth has failed.

OK, what reading(s) do you get from the outside temperature gauge (sensible or not rather than actual values)?

On mine Hi is "Full hot", Lo is "Full cold", and the numbers mix hot and cold to give you a selected temperature (range 18 to 30C).

Filling in metadata like where you're from does help with regionalisation of answers to legal and technical questions.

Since it has a slush box I suspect an issue with the ignition inhibitor.