Paws4Thot

As above, with the note that George and I live in different places so may know different indies.

Yes. the boot probably doesn't hold the microswitch fully broken, so when you go over a bump it registers "boot open" briefly.

This just tells you that there is a fault, not what the fault is.

I'm not dead sure either way, but the only friend I have who's owned a CityGo replaced it with a Fabia.

Based on your report, I'd say "neither".

I can't see why; my bank wanted to reconfirm my authorisation of the funds after I did the transfer, but that happened literally minutes later having told them roughly when the transfer should be.

Only applies if this car has (part-time) 4WD.

I would suggest a RARB, but they actually work by reducing front grip... Is there anything you can do to reduce weight other than taking out "luxuries" that make the car easier to drive such as air con and PAS? (Learnt from Porsche AG)

PlusGas. Apply it, then go for a tea break.

Improve the "Loose nut behind the steering wheel". That might even save on the insurance, but will certainly make the car drive better and transfer to future vehicles.

If they do they'll be dual filament bulbs, say 5/21W.

If the DVLA database is that wrong, are you insured correctly?

Yes and? A digital speed is more precise but not more accurate than an analogue using the same base sensor.

Yeah; I was more commenting that you were catching a "nominally faster car" through that section. On-board footage would help more with technique, but I suspect lots of you were too fast through the RH apex so couldn't make the LH and were late on the throttle for the following straight. I've no footage, but I do remember seeing one guy at the old Ingliston (Royal Highland Showground) circuit trying to be too fast through one corner, running wide and not getting on the power until he was halfway to the next, which then became flat for him where faster drivers (including his teammate) were slower through the first apex but faster to the second turn in point to the extent of needing an audible lift through it but being faster down to the hairpin braking point, maybe 1/3 of the lap distance.

I'd not worry too much about missing the LH apex at those esses; lots of other people were doing that too, and you were definitely taking distance out of that RX-8 through the esses.

@robinwa as @petrolcan says, with the note that. once the alternator has been replaced, it might be good to have the mechanic scan the car and cancel every error message recorded, on the basis that the underlying cause of them was probably the alternator fault.

Not what I asked. I asked "how are the calculations done?" rather than "can you post a lookup table?"

This might actually mean something if you showed how the load index calculations are done.

EuroKneecap is increasingly obsessed with "controlling injury in a collision" rather than preventing the collision in the first place.

Why the assumption that I would watch a video from/by Dilbert Stark?

None of the above; Febi Bilstein or SKF every time.

When? I've got an idea, but I need to know what gear(s) this issue happens in.

@MarkyG82 @PetrolDave Well, you've just both demonstrated that you can't be bothered to actually read what other people say. From yesterday, " Is it the same size as the road tyres? I've had similar where the spare tyre (not the wheel but the tyre) was an odd size so I bought a same size tyre." Since you've ignored that and continued to argue about running an odd size spare, you're both blocked!

So it's just Juan Carlos Fandango's opinion, based on driving at 101% of the car's capability. You and @MarkyG82 should come back when you can demonstrate that you can consistently lap a race track at that level.

Maybe try using the chassis number instead?