Paws4Thot

Try the Doctor; Contact him via UNIT.

And your point is? Wear of hydraulic cylinders is a measure of number of operations and whether or not drivers ride the clutch, rather than of mileage.

IME you need a permanent source to your NTP server to do this.

You've omitted to supply a location, but under UK law they'd be responsible for systems not operating as per specification.

What do these actually mean? What products are used, and what is covered to what extent? Just stating the questions your post makes me ask.

Unless the engine builder is in Stirling I wouldn't have gone that far East. Better to take the M8 West, M/A898 and onto the A82 there.

Well, it's not unusual to do this...

Well, seats are a very personal thing (oh er missis! ); seriously, I had a mate who got back pain after one hour in a Citroen Xantia, where I could drive one all day without issues. We'd both been happy after 5 hours or so in a Citroen BX.

Or a stone stuck under the disc backplate. I had that once and the plastic disc wheel trim on that wheel got hot enough to boil water.

NEVER go to that garage again! I don't know how corrosive OAT is or isn't, but I do know that it's immiscible with glycol.

Well, those are helpfully labelled "mit silikat".

@RichardStandard10 I'd agree with @nta16 procedures, with the note that I have never used any of the cited products.

As @SimonB68 says.

Unlucky. This hardly ever happens to my sister or myself even without the illegal use of a mobile phone.

Which chart proves absolutely nothing, since the important figure is not cd (drag coefficient) but cdA (cd multiplied by frontal area in square meters).

Serious answer; there was a company who made this "styling" kit for the 2CV (and a similar one for the VW Type 1) until they received a "cease and desist" letter from Rolls Royce Motors. It's good to see that at least one has survived.

Similarly, I had an "advisory" of "fuel tank straps corroded" in December one year. The testing garage kept the car over Christmas whilst awaiting a new light switch. The advisory did not recur when they retested the car after fitting the new switch, nor in any subsequent test. The tank straps were not replaced.

Buy "new", proven good, ECU. Disconnect accumulator. Now and only now, insert new ECU in socket. Now, and only now, reconnect accumulator. If you were expecting a method for fixing rather than replacing a bricked ECU, it can't be done.

I'd rather the later car because "there ain't no substitoot for coobes".

Well. IMO they should return your car for you to take to a competent garage, without charge other than for the brake work.

All sorts, including the archetypal "elephant race" where the vehicle in lane 2 has a limiter set 0.2mph faster than the vehicle in lane 2...

Do you have brake cleaner? You'll need it to get leaked fluid off the insides of the offending drum. If the brake shoes on that side are contaminated with fluid you'll need new brake shoes for both sides as well.

You just won a place on my black list idiot.

That will depend on your unstated use case (based on my sis and I sharing a Jazz, and her never using top gear, even extra-urban).

Calm down Carlos Fandango! Not everyone drives like that.