Paws4Thot

Sorry I didn't answer this sooner. My best recommendation is to get something to read then go to an office supplies store, find a chair you like the look of, and sit in it reading for at least an hour, then see how you feel.

@Buddxrs - I won't retype what @nta16 has put, but I'd agree with at least 90% of it. Also I agree with you about not having a black box, because some of my workmates had them on their children's cars, and said children spent more time worrying about "the speed limit" than about other traffic and making safe overtaking manoeuvres.

@Planetse is correct about the cambelt drive, but the 5 year change interval was withdrawn last year.

@Ardeleanu There is no easy way of testing for an intermittent contact; if you don't feel competent you need to contact an auto electrician (I don't know the Romanian for this job). As for the alarm, you could check the build code sticker in the boot space, but I don't know which code is "alarm fitted".

@Ardeleanu :- This may not be an issue with the LH rear door despite where the symptoms are. Pass. This suggests to me that you have an intermittent contact in one or more of the wires to the window control panel on the driver's door. These wires would also explain your central locking issues, Are you sure the car even has an alarm? The cited LEDs were standard even without an alarm as confirmations of the radio code and central locking working. Even on the assumption that it does, the alarm battery would be 20 years old now.

You may do; my BFF has a solar installation at 55.92N (Long omitted for confidentiality), and even in January on a sunny day the electricity meter can be seen to be running backwards.

On which basis the dealer should have paid you six grand with the car!

It's a hydraulic clutch so you could try bleeding it, and cleaning the pedal pivot. I've a nasty feeling that the slave cylinder may be starting to give up though.

Go to the Forums page; you'll see level one subfora in Briskoda green with a downward pointing arrow at the RHedge. For example "Welcome to Briskoda". I never read that so I pressed the downward arrow, which changed the banner colour to a paler green, the down arrow to a left arrow, and hid all the level 2 subfora under the L1. I've also done this with "Freedom Supporters area" (because I'm not), Marketplace, Sponsors Section and Club Forums. This cuts down consiterably on the number of L2 titles I even see, but I can't suggest a way of hiding an individual L2 title in, say, Skoda Owner Forums although I never read Enyaq, and rarely look at the various Suburban Useless Vehicle (SUV) models.

... and therefore self-identified as Audiots!

Well I don't know how much use this will be but I use the "Mark (sub)forum read" button, like for example I use it regularly on the Enyaq (sp?) forum because I have zero interest in the model.

I don't know if it's the same as my old Octy, but on that the handbrake adjustment went like this:- Stop the car, engine running, handbrake off. Push the footbrake as hard as you can into the floor. Even use both feet if you have an automatic or DSG. Now pull on the handbrake without releasing the footbrake. Release the footbrake and then the handbrake. If this works you should have the handbrake fully on at 5 or 6 clicks. I'd do that annually, when booking the MoT, and never failed on handbrake adjustment.

There's this site called "YouTube" that takes big videos, and then you can link it from here using the link (chain) control.

Point of order; a Superb is a large saloon, not a limousine. This is easily confirmed by getting into the rear seats and looking at the backs of the front seats rather than the fixed divider that isn't there.

The challenge is in judging a safe speed for the corner rather than hooning on and hoping no-one is coming the other way. Please never visit Scotland or Wales if you want to act like Carlos Fandango everywhere.

OHOT We did get the advantage that I know the Pass of the Cattle, and have never (that I remember) been over Hellfire Pass.

From a local(ish), the Bealach na Ba is a single track road; this means it is narrow enough that you need the passing places to pass oncoming cyclists!

I think these are the main relevant points; the garage has at least part blocked the radiator with its "Leak Bodge" gunk.

Front bulkhead, pedal box. Basically I think you need an RHD shell, steering rack and fascia, plus, based on knowing a garage that has rebuilt a few economic write-offs, about 100 hours labour to transfer the engine, interior, doors and glazing. At this point, you basically have a new shell with an old interior and mechanicals.

I don't think converting it from wrong hand drive to right hand drive is technically possible, or economically viable.

From what I've read on the subject:- No. You don't want "Lane Enforce" anyway, because it will try and second-guess what you should do and get it wrong more often than not.

Get an in-sewer-ants quote before proceeding.

Big hint there; some apps don't work properly on phones.

Blocked turbo oil feed and/or return pipe?

Erwin