Blue8793841

Did you check the alternator clutch yet?

What was the taxes and shipping costs to UK?

So any recommendations on pcv valve maintenance? I heard the 1.5 you can replace the rubber diaphragm. Id rather change it for peace of mind then have it fail.

Probably going to be crank/cam correlation which would indicate a problem with timing.

Unfortunately someone has repaired the brake fluid low level warning wiring and it has damaged the hose. Try 1K0145838N

Is that the BKC engine with the ASV and then EGR bolted to the manifold? Check all vacuum pipes for any deteriorating. The valve that controls the egr can sometimes go faulty. Also the maf sensor measures the air into the engine which could report wrong and cause the same fault. You can try taking off the egr and cleaning it if it's a bit sticky. After that it will be new one.

What sort of actuator does it use? The diamond sort of shaped piece with a ball on one end? Maybe that is bent not fully disengaging the clutch.

Is there any chance you have got grease or oil on the flywheel, centre friction disc or clutch cover? Too much grease on the splines flung off and contaminated the system?

Has someone put a harmonica or whistle in the grille as a joke? 🤣 I did it to my brother.

Use new bolts. 12 point bolt with knurled underside fig126124.A: Tighten to 70 Nm with wheels off the ground. Lower car to the ground and tighten a further 90°. Hexagonal bolt/12 point bolt with plain underside fig126124.B: Tighten to 200 Nm with wheels off the ground. Lower car to the ground and tighten a further 180°.

Send me the registration and I will check

I had noise from AC compressor area, I think it was too much gas! Regassed with correct amount and the noise disappeared.

FT new bolt

If you try silicone spray on the whole belt and pull it in and out a few times it can fix the problem, just keep spraying and pulling out. I fitted one to a golf not long ago and it needed coding in. It had one pretentioner plug and another large module plugm

When filling the tank you should stop at the first click of the pump. If not the canister can fill with fuel.

What sort of driving are you doing? What is the code and description? Unfortunately these modern cars with all the electronic stuff can take a while to work out the bugs. A lot of stuff is cured by software updates. Also cats that haven't been to the dealer can miss a lot of these updates and service bulletins.

Mine is also 2020, se tech October

My MK3 has led from factory

What oil are you using? I wonder if a low viscosity oil might help.

Do you always fuel up at the same place? I generally use the same place and same pump. Maybe OCD of me but if there's a problem I can go back to the filling station and maybe get some feedback. Always run quality fuel too, I think it you use shell vpower or bp ultimate then the money you get back in points outweighs the extra few pence you pay.

That's definitely not right. Sounds like the thermostat is stuck open. Is fuel economy also down?

Usually once a car gets to a certain age and miles most of the big stuff has been done, timing belt, clutch and flywheel, brake pipes etc. then you can pretty much run them forever with normal maintenance. Might get the odd sticky brake caliper here and there. Since the vag group don't really suffer from corrosion like other makes which kills them off.

A long run? How long is that? Have you got anything measure coolant temperature? I imagine it has oil temp displaying the instruments? I'm not too familiar with that engine tbh. Could have housing on side of engine with sensor for guage and ECU. Usually 4 or 2 wires.

Im sure once you get it sorted the car will have a new lease of life and years of happy motoring 😁

Have you got any scan tool? Usually you can activate fuel prime to get the fuel through. Or you could bridge the fuel relay.