leolito

As for the parts themeselves, this gets tricky .... parts diagram, at least one online I can see, is not very clear: https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/SUP/851/8/804/804000 https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/SUP/851/8/867/867081 I am not sure how to help, sorry.

Well, I can guarantee the panel is different, as the "hole" for the luggage compartment is different. I've found a car for sale so I can show a couple of shots of it:

Good! Well, if the glass moves up and down, then the mechanism is not "destroyed", but it should not be very hard or difficult. This could point to a problem in a guide, or part of the sliding aspect of the mechanism. To be verified, you do need to play with it up and down and see .... Now that the motor is detached, it could be interesting to plug it in, and see if pressing the switch moves the motor. I believe this can be done safely, the motor should have some 'memory' that needs to be resynch anyway ... here we need someone that has already dismantled the door, there are a few ones around here ... I recommend all these tests to be done after darkfall, for two reasons: 1) air becomes cooler as sun goes down 2) the possiblity for being mistaken for a car thief increases, which will make the neigbours happily entertained when Police comes with blaring sirens and surrounds you ... just hope you don't get tased or shot (well, you're not in the States 😄)

Usually this is fitted either for addressing vibration, noise, or protection of a component behind it. Sometimes they are just "packed in", sometimes glued, sometimes held with a clip. Lack of it on the other side is difficult to assess - it can be a deliberate design, for only the area needed (according to the principle of "maximum cost reduction" 😄), or, most likely, with time, the miles, or the mighty hand of someone that has worked on the car in its life, it has become lost ... 😄

Believe, the sun screens are a great advantage, from heat protection and also for some privacy aspect ... only problem with it, the clips that hold it are a bit flimsy ... and a funny shape. After hearing the "klin klin klin" once or twice, now I am very careful when comes time to take them out ... and if I leave the car for wash/detailing, I actually do it myself. I got the floor mat, and is great also the rubber/weatherproof part, the only drawback is that is heavyyyy .... if you need to access the lower part of the luggage compartment, better to take it out and put it aside. I've tried a few times to lift the vario floor together with the mat, and boy it proves your muscles ... 🙃

Always! This is something the majority of briskodians on civilized countries do not know in detail ... ah ah 😁

Binx above is correct. As long as the motor is connected to the mechanism, even if the former or the latter are broken, they are "jointly" in this. I admit I have never opened the Superb yet, but I had a few times to replace partially or entirelly the mechanism, and you need to disconnect the motor from it. Once you get the motor out of the way, you can move the glass manually - start slowly by few increments, until you detect what is wrong. If a lateral guide has failed (the vertical ones that guide the glass up and down), you will sense the glass moving at an angle, or locking on one side at it wedges on the guide. Careful that in case the glass shots out of the guide, it could fall or hit the metal, it should not shatter, they are stronger than that, but do not risk. In case the slider of the mechanism, usually plastic, has failed, you need to force it into a place where you can see how to split it apart, freeing the glass from the mechanism. Overall is not an easy task, space is limited, and so on. What a dream old Audis where ... the glass could be detached together with the mechanism and the door top frames separately (Imagine the old Land Rover doors in two parts) ... fix it on the table and put everything back together at once ... aah. They were a pain to align though 😜

I was this morning to verify/refill another two for some friends, and confirm the presence of the EN3 norm should give it as "valid", surely for EU countries, to which Bulgaria is part of. However, he could not confirm where in the BG norms, is stated that the 'foreign' certification sticker is valid also for Bulgaria - since it is issued by another country, true EU, but not by a BG-certified Institute ... I threw him in disarray, actually, thing that happens often to me when I challenge unclear things 😆 Long story short, you will be well clear in GR, but unclear in BG 🙄 Oh well ... we have bothered enough the rest of the crowd with this saga ...

Bravo Lee for the selfless sacrifice to save stuff from oblivion! 😁

Noooo! Don't do it! Both are fine and mint original parts .... strange no-one came by yet! Perhaps advertise somewhere with more visibility, some site for 2nd hand stuff?

The acceptability of the EU certificate is a bit of a gray area ... if new, you can "fight" your way with a zealant officer, but I decided, "for a fistful of euros", to remove that possibility entirely 😁 About the verification place, that one is in business since many years and is a renown name. It was in my shortlist, but logistic opportunities meant this one is much closer to me... and fellas there are quite "approachable" Street View · Google MapsStreet View · Google MapsOrt in Google Maps noch intensiver erleben. But we are not very far ... we should meet sometime, make some "balkan briskodian meet" 😁, we can make the Lord Admin proud of how the community trascends from simply "writing online" 😜 I got a set of hellish weeks ahead, but I think will be able to breath in Aug we can PM coordinates 😉

Good! Once it arrives, check what stamp of approval it has ... I was thinking whether it will be acceptable to the Bulgarian authorities or not .... Monday or Tuesday I need to pass to verify/recertify another couple of FE from some mates and will ask the question 😉

Without all this, the 2kg FE fits right, and does not foul the seat moving forward, even at its minimum height - mine is electric, if manual I do not know where the lever is located, it might bother. So I am going to play making a contraption using the rivnut and the studs to fix the holder that came with the FE, and if it goes well, that will be my Fire Protection arrangement for any upcoming trip to Hellas ... 😜

The 2kg one doe not fit at all, unless you remove the foam support for the ECU under the seat - in my car, at least. Moving the ECU aside, and without the foam, frees access to a threaded rivnut on the left side, and two studs on the right one.

Tricky ... on the left side Ihave the Canton sub, so not much space, except for gloves, folded shopping bags, and a rain-windbreaker. On the right side the 1st aid kit, a bottle of water and one sprayer with 50/50 solution water/degreaser to clean the windshield from dirt and dead fauna when I travel ... I am always an attraction whenever I stop and pull out all this crap and clean the screen 😄 I will try to fit the FE there and see how it goes, but remember the rules state "it must be quickly accessible" so depending on how picky is the patrol stopping you, might be a tough sale to show that immediately you will react to get out of the car, open the electric boot - that might want not to work in that moment 🙃- and get to the pocket that must be free from the ton of luggage you are carrying 🤪 Nevertheless, I did try to compare the space and the two FEs, 1kg and 2kg:

"Bate" (dude, for the non-initiated in the intricacies of the local language 😁) is it extremely confusing, but after some browsing I came up finally to "what exactly" is that is required, and I will check against the existing Skoda 1st Aid set I have. In parallel to that, I finally managed to put back on the road (or off-road!) my Landy so I need to freshen up that kit as well, which is way more comprenhensive for obvious reasons (I keep also cream for burns and bites, repellant for mosquitos/instects, and so on). Probably will do a mix and match. In any case the 1st aid kit is not much, say 11 to 15 euro. The 2kg FE was around 25 euro (new), whereas the verification/certification of my existing 2kg one (the one in the Landy) was like 7 euro - only tests, there was no need to renew the material, or replace parts (usually manometer/gauge, pressure safety valve, nozzle are the first ones to go). Nikana.grWhat must a first aid kit contain according to the new st...Since June 18, 2026, new rules for the complete first aid kit in vehicles come...Medi-ShopCar first aid kit DIN 13164:2022 blueDIN 13164:2022 car first aid kit, complete emergency medical kit for vehicle use, compliant with current European standards.

Any structural point will do, if you can't use the chassis then the next suitable are areas where the suspension arms connect to the chassis, either the bolt heads or end of the suspension arms, chassis side. Use a rag or an old rubber floor mat to avoid damaging the finish. Once you fit the stand, before getting under the car, try to simulate "movement" of the same type of the work you will do. Every time I lift a car, I do move it and shake it, in all possible directions, and then also a 'jerk' simulating the typical undoing of a very tightened bolt or not. Only then I go under it ... Use a wheel thrown under the car as a failsafe.

Unfortunately, my installation was with the OE/accessory 1kg bottle, whereas what fr1nklyn is mentioning is a new "particular" requirement from neighbour country Hellas, which I believe is the only nation in EU and Europe to require a 2kg fire extinguisher. Now this is a hefty piece of metal, and not only you are required to have it, but it must be made "accessible" - this means not thrown randomly in the bottom of the luggage place 😁 I got myself yesterday a 2kg one as per requirements, and will try to see if it fits in the place where I set the OE one as shown, but I doubt it fits. Tomorrow I have some time to play with this ... will update.

If the slider pins were fine, and I guess you also check the piston did not have a seal damaged, which would make it not come out properly ... guess all steps were covered. I would watch it again in a couple k miles, to see how the new pads are "marking" the brake disc.

This is a sign of not very good braking ... did you use the opportunity to check the condition and eventually grease the caliper pins? Perhaps they were not really free to run and then not allowing the pad to fully contact the disc?

I usually top up with already mixed - you buy concentrate and distilled water and do it yourself. Not knowing much of the type on mine, since it had the years and mileage I went for a full coolant flush and replacement, so now I have no dilemma about what it goes in there (G12 evo in mycase). Easier! To spot water pump leaking I think you need to access from below.

Have fun with the work!

This I can't judge, all brands are fairly acceptable and known in the market (Febi, Topran, Swag, Ryder) ... I put spacers in mine summers (Eibach) and the kit came together with the "plus" bolts, marked Eibach but who knows who made them ... Cannot say 😊

wow you really gor carried away in a junk shopping expedition! 😁 I am really interesting to hear how the "wiper blade repair tool" works! I've done the fire extinghuisher thing, see towards the bottom of this page:

Unless you damage a nut, or become rusty, there should be no need to replace them, especially if they are torqued correctly. You can clean them with a metal brush if is superficial corrosion. Some cars have different nuts between steelies and alloys, right, but not in this case.