mrgf

As he said... Also, braking distances will be increased with soggy suspension, to a certain degree.

Being soft, you could just try popping the bellows open, looking for a broken wire and then just "Wedging" the two sides together, whilst having the lights on... That might just be enough to give you your desired "Ping". Then you will know where you stand!

Pardon?

Might be worth testing bulbs elsewhere, testing the wiring/lamp fitting has power and/or checking the wiring loom, where it goes through from the chassis, to the tailgate to be sure it has not fractured. Not sure which fuse is used on the tailgate lights, though.

Sounds like the wiring loom through the tailgate to the bodywork might have become frayed or something.

Only just spotted this but I think the non projector lights have different wiring looms for high and low, as the projectors just move a shield. You may find you need to swap the looms, too.

I would agree with Wino there. I often think my fan may not be coming on and just to save worry, put a little bit of masking tape from the fan to the shroud or make a felt tip line on part of the fan and shroud, (Thats the better option) to see if it matches up again after a run. It never has. I think if you have the a/c on, it will come on quicker, though but thats the only thing on my car that is not working properly!

I am lucky enough to have an MOT station where they do a no pass-no pay deal AND they only charge £40. It does kind of mean they won't just fail you for silly things such as bulbs as they will replace it first but I have not had any issue anyway. I have seen cheaper places but the no pass system is not worth saving another tenner for a failure.

I dont call 6°c much cooler You would if it was your core body temperature! Well, you wouldn't but your family might as they stand around you in intensive care! (Tongue firmly in cheek here).

It sounds strange that intermittent will work, along with fast whilst normal will not. I don't actually think you have a wipe once function, unless you have what people call "Teardrop" Function programmed, where after wash-wipe, you get one extra wipe to clear up any remaining drip. I seem to remember a fault years ago on my Fabia, where the wipers had a fault and it turned out to be its control unit or module. The workshop dismantled, cleaned up all the terminals as they had become corroded enough to prevent current from flowing, and re-assembled everything. I was advised that if they became faulty again, I might need to replace the unit but from then to now, its remained fault free.

Quote.. "The thing is, this garage failed my Roomster for both rear coils snapped/fractured and a ball joint with a damaged sleave. None of that stuff was true. They asked £700 to fix it but I declined and found out after there was nothing wrong with the coils and ball joints". And you still went back to them? Not being funny but I would have not shown them a plastic toy car to inspect! My advise is go elsewhere in future, once you have completed any necessary repairs or even just for a second opinion. If it passes elsewhere, complain to your local trading standards office.

Have you tried following the bonnet catch cable to see if you could run it through with that?

Hi, Yes they are not too hard. Generally, they have a few bolts/screws underneath the plastic triangle shaped trim, inside the door. unbolt, unplug and remove. Reverse to re-fit. Just so you know, the painted plastic caps can also be removed, if its just that part that is damaged. You will need to remove the bevel (Kind of frame, around the mirror) To split off the top painted half and just be careful not to crack off the lugs that clip it all together. The bezel too, is replaceable, if that was damaged and often is actually cheaper from the main dealer then say, eBay, etc. For the mirror complete, eBay, CP4L, Eorocarparts, etc are the best bet. If its the backing plastic, you might just still find an eBay company who supply them, painted to your colour for a similar price Skoda want (Or even less) Just for the cap. What colour do you have?

...I get that point, Albie10. I forget how many times I have re-fitted something that I thought suspect, after replacing it, only to re-replace it again as it was defective. (I am always doing that with LED bulbs, etc). As the man once said, "If it ain't broke-don't fix it"!

I think as mentioned, alternator could well be iffy but also, when changing the battery, did you get it re-coded? I believe some cars have to have this done, in order to function properly. I have removed/replaced my own one a few times and have never had to re-code it BUT when I connect to diagnostics, it does have something that relates to the battery, which though not making a difference, still could do with deleting. Also, Murdockman suggested checking earths, so don't just twitch them, give them a proper check with a spanner, to be sure. I have seen cars AND motorcycles fail to start, which looked like the battery was connected ok but on re-tightening terminals, fired up immediately. I would suggest loosening, cleaning and re-tightening any duff-looking terminal.

I think there have been previous issues with brake light switches failing causing funny reactions. I am very surprised to see the high brake light working as they often take a feed from one or the other brake lights so if one goes, so does the high one. That might possibly relate more to blown fuses for a side, then just a bulb though. Additionally, if the switch was broken, why would the high level one come on, unless you mean it was just not actually blown. I can only guess that the power loss is either just done "Always" For certain dash lights coming on or otherwise, a deliberate act, to prevent someone driving continually, with no rear lights, as a safety issue. (How often have you seen a leading vehicle with at least ONE blown bulb, often two and even NO rear brake lights)? Fantastic that you found and fixed the issue quickly and economically, though.

It could be going in to the engine or exhaust system and being blown out via the tailpipe. I doubt this is the case though but possible. Be aware, if you are only topping up with water, the boiling point is much lower then coolant and so will evaporate quicker and need topping up more! It will also allow all sorts of muck, rust etc to form and will not protect the engine from freezing.

Hard to say what the noise is so keep an ear open for it. Coolant can just get low but if when topped up, it keeps doing it and you need to add coolant often, its a leak. They can leak from many places and some models have a plastic flange on one side of the engine, which may also house the coolant temp switch along with a few hoses. The seals can perish and the flanges can crack/split so look closely for anything like that, along with leaking from hoses, etc. Also, check there is no water escaping into the oil... Check the inside of the oil filler cap for stuff that looks a bit like mayonnaise. I doubt it will be this but when that happens to a regularly run car, it can point to a blown head gasket. (Bubbling/pressure coming up in the coolant bottle can, too but don't mistake that with the coolant being hot or its natural circulation).

I would just check the age of the battery... If its more than 5 years old, fit a new one anyway! Keep the old one, charge it fully and store it. That way, you can do regular swaps, to slow charge the new one every six months, off the car. The easiest way to check the turbo is actually working, is to drive gently, then increase the revs and at a certain point, the turbo should kick in and speed the car up more then you intended. I usually have to say to students, if they feel the turbo cutting in, they are driving too hard on local city roads. On faster, dual carriageways, etc, when pulling away from a standing start, try to get that boost! Also, after a fairly hard, fast drive, if you come to a stop, a ****ed turbo will often produce a cloud of foul-smelling fumes. Funny and embarrassing in equal measures. I have a 1.4 Greenie but I am sure the 1.2 will still have that boost at around 2-2500 revs!

I think superskoda did a black version, for older cars, too.

There should also be a little round cover for the rear cup holder!

Might even have the boot pop intact.

...Of course, every time one starts the car, one moves off and starts driving, doesn't one? Otherwise, that would skew the figures, if one day you did, another you didn't. As for the final reckoning, I doubt even St Peter himself wants to trawl through all that data. And lets be frank, he don't even exist! You will be dead and have a nicely documented file of paper, for your living rellies, to burn! (I am biting hard on my tongue, which is very firmly placed in my cheek, here).

...Im fairness, most semi-competent DIY-er can change brake pads/discs but callipers are a little more involved, especially on cars fitted with ABS. So if you can do that, can you still manage to strip/rebuild one? Bear in mind, any company who does this, will have to undertake a damn sight more rigorous testing then a home mechanic, to ensure they are fit to re-use. Then factor in what the main dealer will charge, for genuine new parts. The one you return might go to a reconditioned but you may also find you are being quoted for a brand new one so the exchange rate will still be high. Lower of course, for a recon unit but still, much higher then a used "You get what you see" Second-hand unit from a scrappy/boot sale/mate who took one off four years ago and it might just be the same type! As for garages being "Able" To re-fit pistons, seals, etc, it will take them longer to do that, then fit a clean, recon or new unit, which they know will work and will make them a few quid, with less agro. As they say over at Dacia, "You do the maths"! I also wonder where you were looking as I can see them for half that, even for a VRS

...Im fairness, most semi-competent DIY-er can change brake pads/discs but callipers are a little more involved, especially on cars fitted with ABS. So if you can do that, can you still manage to strip/rebuild one? Bear in mind, any company who does this, will have to undertake a damn sight more rigorous testing then a home mechanic, to ensure they are fit to re-use. Then factor in what the main dealer will charge, for genuine new parts. The one you return might go to a reconditioned but you may also find you are being quoted for a brand new one so the exchange rate will still be high. Lower of course, for a recon unit but still, much higher then a used "You get what you see" Second-hand unit from a scrappy/boot sale/mate who took one off four years ago and it might just be the same type! As for garages being "Able" To re-fit pistons, seals, etc, it will take them longer to do that, then fit a clean, recon or new unit, which they know will work and will make them a few quid, with less agro. As they say over at Dacia, "You do the maths"!