mannyo

And time for another quick update. The S60 is now on 169K miles and still running perfectly except for the ongoing smoke problem. However last week I had an intermittent electrical problem with the rear of the car, I initially put it down to little use over the previous 4 weeks so went to charge the battery. I discovered that the positive terminal had been suffering from acid corrosion for quiet some time and the cause of the electrical issues was that the acid had eaten through one of the terminals onto the battery. This wire was now flapping around and intermittently making contact directly on the battery pole, which had in turn caused an even bigger corrosion mess. 1/2 hour cleaning it up with a vacuum and a dremel and it was all cleaned up except the broken connection, so off to a local garage the following morning (car still drove but no rear electrics, brake lights etc.) who fitted a nice new terminal all properly soldered and normal service resumed. Since that was done I've covered more than 500 miles at the weekend in the Volvo, and its still great.

Remember the upcoming meeting folks, especially the regulars.

Gotcha, So the thinner of those two pipes below the pump should be the one where the escapes from, and the thicker one is there to supply water to the system. I therefore guess that the end of that vent pipe is higher than the header tank otherwise water will flow out the end of the vent. The heating installation from what I can gather was done in both cottages near 16 years ago when the entire house was remodelled internally, the boiler was replaced in about 2009 (I moved in in 2010) although not sure if anything else was done at that time. To think there used to be a nice big Range and inglenook fireplace, all ripped out and now there is a wood burner where the fireplace was and where the range was is now a door to the downstairs loo and boiler and the now front entrance.

I dare not touch anything in that cupboard for fear of creating a leak. the system already has a leak from the upper pump valve as the crusty green gives the game away. Also the pipes heading to the header tanks in the loft have green running down them.

So looking at that picture is pump running bottom to top or top to bottom? Just curious, its obviously been done badly as the air has no way to get out until I bleed the thing. I'll just keep going as before, the heating will be switched on in a couple of weeks so I'll once again be bleeding air out weekly from the single radiator that gets air.

Yes One closest is the heating, then the feed from boiler, by back wall is hot water. I dont know if the pump is pushing or pulling, maybe you can tell by the picture in which case the water flow will be the opposite of the annotated picture. There are two pipes to the bottom of the pump, one thin and one thick that head up into the roof space. Not sure whats on the end but it would seem odd to have that on the inlet which is what makes me think the pump is pulling water from the top down.

Some pics, stupid iPhone has rotated them. Floor is right, ceiling is left.

Pics coming up, although the pipework is all over the place.

its an open as opposed to sealed system, the pipework in the airing cupboard is an intricate piece of work. Access to half of it is impossible, tiny cupboard loads of pipes/wiring all squeezed into such a tiny space. I've just finished repeatedly cycling between heating and hot water removing yet more air. Now seems quieter so running the system for 20mins on hot water to see if I get hot or luke warm water. I've tried each of the three pump speeds, on the fast one it sounds a whole lot worse than number 1.

Help.. My hot water is only getting luke warm at best. The below maybe a bit all over the place but they are as I think this through. Setup info: Grant Oil fired boiler, with two pipes in/out leading to airing cupboard. In the airing cupboard the boiler output is fed into an electronic switch that operates between hot water and heating. Pump is a Grundfos Super Selectric. Whats happening, I think is all down to air but how can I bleed this thing. Switch on heating, you can hear the switch change over, get gurgling sound through pipes which stabilises. Radiators get lovely and hot quiet quickly, however one radiator in the system is always getting air trapped and requires regular bleeding to keep it clear of air. Electronic changeover is working because when on hot water the radiators remain cold, and get hot when switched to heating. This evening I bled the radiators to check no air, then switched the heating (not hot water yet) on. Gurgling through pipes, let it run for 15mins, switched it off. Radiators all hot. Now bled this single radiator again, and trapped air released. Is there anyway I can bleed all the air from the system without it running as its apparent must be a lot of air in it currently. Both me and next door, farm cottage semis have the same system design and both have the same issue with exactly the same radiator always getting air. Been like it since I moved in six years ago, just bleed the radiator every week in winter. Property is rented, so trying the usual before getting the landlord involved.

Could also be why remote locking is not working either, since you cannot lock the car with the key still in the ignition.

Still on the original battery, at 10 years old it will be well past its prime. Also check earth connection from battery to car body, it was a problem on the MK1. The issue may not be visible, so try removing the terminal at the body end and clean it all up and reattach. As mentioned, it does sound like a primary power issue everything goes off.

Yes, but they have numbers after the RS and not Just RS. So there is no difference between vRS and RS3, RS4 etc.. as they as not "RS". From what I recall Porsche had been using it before Ford, but Ford then trademarked it and most likely have an agreement with Porsche to use the name.

If you look at the VCDS scan you will a number of figures. Take this scan of the HVAC on my Audi A8, you can see multiple faults (an old scan by the way) The key to look for is reset counter, if the fault has this associated then following that number of drive cycles the fault is automatically deleted. Should the fault reoccur during the countdown the valus is reset. The reset value is ECU and fault dependent, different faults have different reset counts. Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: None Part No SW: 4E0 910 043 HW: 4E0 820 043 Component: KLIMAAUTOMAT 016 0240 Revision: 00000020 Serial number: 00000000024718 Coding: 1069297 6 Faults Found: 00065 - Left Rear Footwell Heater (Z42) 004 - No Signal/Communication Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 01100100 Fault Priority: 3 Fault Frequency: 1 Reset counter: 197 Mileage: 228864 km Time Indication: 0 Date: 2015.06.15 Time: 21:33:15 Freeze Frame: Voltage: 13.90 V 01087 - Basic Setting Not Performed 005 - No or Incorrect Basic Setting / Adaptation Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 01100101 Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 1 Reset counter: 197 Mileage: 228864 km Time Indication: 0 Date: 2015.06.15 Time: 21:32:01 00066 - Right Rear Footwell Heater (Z43) 004 - No Signal/Communication Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 01100100 Fault Priority: 3 Fault Frequency: 1 Reset counter: 71 Mileage: 235633 km Time Indication: 0 Date: 2015.10.03 Time: 14:06:09 Freeze Frame: Voltage: 12.80 V 02021 - Supply Voltage for Heating Element in Right Rear Footwell 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00100010 Fault Priority: 3 Fault Frequency: 81 Reset counter: 105 Mileage: 228873 km Time Indication: 0 Date: 2015.06.18 Time: 12:36:47 Freeze Frame: Voltage: 12.90 V 00716 - Air recirculation Flap Positioning Motor (V113) 003 - Mechanical Failure Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 01100011 Fault Priority: 3 Fault Frequency: 145 Reset counter: 77 Mileage: 228866 km Time Indication: 0 Date: 2015.06.16 Time: 17:43:47 Freeze Frame: Voltage: 12.70 V Temperature: 34.0∞C (no units): 43.0 (no units): 7.0 Temperature: -76.0∞C 01844 - Control Module for Fresh Air Blower (J126) 004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00100100 Fault Priority: 3 Fault Frequency: 29 Reset counter: 112 Mileage: 228992 km Time Indication: 0 Date: 2015.06.26 Time: 17:18:32 Freeze Frame: Temperature: 25.0∞C Speed: 100.0 km/h (no units): 170.0 (no units): 145.0

Not seen a working phone box for sometime, but thats because down here they have all but gone. None in town, none where my mum lives. The ones that remain have been converted into libraries or removed all together.

They key thing is that as soon as you start getting the symptoms of the chain stretching before failure, get the car looked at ASAP to avoid total destruction. Things to look for are random misfires across all the cylinders, camshaft sensor errors. Basically anything that hints the timing maybe out. Keeping a main dealer history in the event of a disaster could help to a substantial goodwill contribution from Skoda but without a full main dealer history this would be unlikely.

I've got a similar button on the steering wheel of my 12 year old Audi, when I press the voice control button I get a nice message on the dash screen that simply says Button Not Used. The changed setting on Maxidot should sort the station selection, but like me I think source selection is headunit only.

Yes as above but the whole cluster has to come out. However it is quiet straight forward to remove, should be removable in 10 mins with a trim removal tool and a torx tool set. From what I recall, someone will need to verify. Make sure steering is straight ahead and the wheel is adjusted so its fully outward (to give clearance) Remove the trim from below the cluster, (it simply pulls out with clips holding in place?) Undo the Torx screws that this now reveals. Run the trim removal tool around the top of the cluster between the dash and the cluster to release the clips. Pull cluster forward, disconnect wiring. Refitting is reverse except apply small amount of pressure at top of cluster to engage upper clips.

£199 per month for 2 years with 10K on a car which cost north of 30K is a fantastic deal and I would be considering this had it come up next June.

From my experience illuminated and cooled simply means it has a light like all cars, but has an additional opening which can be turned on/off that is connected to the heater ducts with the air temperature being the same as the those from the front vents. Basically the same system employed in other Skoda models. Makes sense given that the glovebox is not sealed, and if the air remained chilled then you/your passengers would always be complaining of cold drafts int he car.

As long as the handbrake holds and is within spec the car will pass regardless of clicks, you may get an advisory if the tester is feeling picky.

Not quite, it has a higher version number but it is an update to 10.0.1, the updates and fixes from 10.0.2 are not yet included in the 10.1 beta. The 10.1 Beta was released before 10.0.2, so you'll need to wait for a later version of the 10.1 beta so it includes those updates.

Lets try and get the show back on the road after a few months off due to holidays etc. Details for the next one below, any VCDS requirements, there are a couple of us here to help Exact location - http://www.thecharlt....co.uk/#contact The Charlton Inn Bournemouth Road Charlton Marshall Blandford Forum Dorset DT11 9NH Start time - 6.30pm, however as I'm sure this will be a stretch for many to get to after work, feel free to roll in anytime after this. We'll eat at 7.30ish so no rush. Come on down and enjoy an evening of good food and company

From what I can work out its £75 for a single use microSD card. https://kenwood.garmin.com/kenwood/site/latestMap Once used it links to the unit.