PetrolDave

These changes worked on my 2016 L&K. Change High Beam Assist Speed Settings – DONE Controller A5 – High Beam Assist 10- Adaptations Change IDE03885-Speed threshold for high beam recommendation off from 27 to 17 (km/h) Change IDE03886-Activation speed for high beam assistant from 57 to 27 (km/h)

Sounds like the diagnostics test is thinking the rear window heater resistance is out of spec and after a few seconds turns it off. A scan with a proper VAG diagnostic tool would be the next step I suggest.

Can you have ACC AND speed limiter?

Possibly or possibly not - on the VCDS forum it's sometimes been the case that the door modules need to have the correct parameter file for the car, something that requires online access via ODIS or similar. So worth checking beforehand...

16 inch rims with higher profile tyres to match the rolling diameter of 19 inch rims with ultra low profile tyres will fill the arches to the same amount.

Watch this YouTube video from Skoda New Zealand https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IYDsSeSQbWY

I use this tyre size calculator to compare the OEM size with tyre/wheel combinations I'm considering - a good rule of thumb is to keep the overall diameter of the wheel/tyre combination within 2% to avoid any problems with speedo/odometer errors.

Definitely looking like Skoda are well down at the bottom of the queue for getting parts compared to the other VAG brands.

First question is does your Elegance have the Canton amplifier (if it does there will be a Canton logo on the front door speakers)? If it does then the 'line level' connection between head unit (in the glovebox) and amp is actually optical digital which complicates things.

So much so that most drivers now totally ignore the advisory signs. NH really need to get ther act together and make the signs accurate if they are to be treated with any respect.

The water pump has to be disturbed/removed to replace the timing belt, so it makes sense to replace the water pump rather than try to refit/reseal the old pump.

I believe that's the low pressure fuel pump.

Over the years me and my ex have has 3 Skoda's - a 2005 Fabia Ambiente 1.2 hatch, a 2015 Octavia 1.4TSI Elegance estate and an Octavia 1.8TSI L&K hatch. Only 1 expensive repair on them when the right rear wheel bearing failed on the 1.4TSI which caused a loss of ABS and related functions and cost c.£500 to replace at a dealer.

Is the MIB2 Columbus a retrofit? MIB2 wasn't introduced until mid 2015 so a 2014 would ahve been fitted with a MIB1 at the factory.

On my 1.4TSI the battery voltage would be around 14.4V for a few minutes after charging, then drop to around 12.5V for most of the time driving except when braking when the regenerative braking would increase the voltage during braking. So based on my experience 13.5V when driving seems high and could suggest a battery that isn't in top condition. Totally agree that 11.3V while driving is too low.

Then, I'm sorry, but that is a total misunderstanding of how car electronic systems work - and to say it would invalidate the warranty on the whole car is wrong, the only item on which the warranty could be invalidated is the infotainment.

The car is basically a computer network all controllers connect to a central point (the CAN Gateway) and there are several sub-networks (Powertrain, Comfort, etc.) So you can say that every controller is (via the CAN Gateway) connected to every other controller) - however, that does not mean that the infotainment shares diagnostic data with the engine, because it quite simply doesn't. Physical connection is not the same as logical connection.

My previous 1.4TSI manual averaged 45mpg, so with a DSG you should get nearer to 50mpg (or better). Remember than fuel gauges are VERY non-linear, on the Octavia it barely moves from full for nearly 100 miles then falls slowly to about half and then accelerates - so I would not be making any assumptions on fuel consumption based solely on starting at a gauge showing half full. Wait until you have a full tank and then do a full to full test.

Th side effect of disconnecting the battery current sensor is that the battery will be charged to 100% SoC not 80%, so the (very minor) regenerative braking effect will be lost and there will be a (very minor) increase in fuel consumption.

Then they do not have the appropriate knowledge or tools, any decent VAG diagnostic tool such as OBD11 or VCDS can change the battery type from EFB to AGM. The issue of whether to code or not has been discussed on here so many times I've lost count - the downside of not coding the new battery is that the BMS assumes the old battery is still fitted until it learns that the battery is behaving like a much better battery and eventually adjusts its charging profile. Coding make that adjustment happen straight away, so things like start/stop will work much sooner.

Did you test whether the ground connection is OK?

Yes, they all use the vehicle speed signal (to turn off the parking sensors when moving and to vary the steering assistance). I had the same set of warning messages and lights when a rear wheel speed sensor failed on my previous 1.4TSI Octavia 3.

+1 Looks like signal from one (or more) of the ABS wheel speed sensors is faulty.

I would check the engine speed sensor connections, and investigate the cost of a replacement sensor.

The only time it will be OFF is when you select OFF in the menu, so surely no further indication is needed or indeed of any value?