paulski

Might be of use? Or for with other type of Camera,

I would suggest that you Private message @pab567. He is resident guru on infotainment. To get smart link you're certainly going to need a new unit in the glove box and new screen to match from my limited understanding as Smart link (for Android Auto) only started being available late 2015 and is an additional cost as it has to be done via a dealer at circa £140.

From a post in 2015. "hi i have a octy 3 elegance has same thing my sort of fix is to go into settings and turn off the setting that lights up the screen when it senses something near it that helps the other is turn on anoloque time display when turned off and when it does this tuen it off and time will be displayed which is lighting up the screen and warming it up for 5to10 mins depending on how cold n damp it is and when you turn it on hey presto all back to normal with out it doing your head in changing and re tuning your stations" worth a try...

Seen posts on here regarding issues with moisture getting in the touchscreen. I also know a colleague at work had his screen replaced under warranty on a 2015 car for very similar issues that only began to occur in winter. You could change the screen which is plug and play but certainly not cheap. I suspect you have MIB1 on that year car. The screen is just a screen and the unit in the glovebox is the main control centre so to speak.

This metal tab for clarity.

Ctek MXs5 is a great piece of charging equipment, its very small and will easily fit under the bonnet, car can be locked and flying lead will fit out from under the bonnet. Not cheap but has as mentioned will do all stop start battery and also recondition it too. Worth every penny.

Be interested where you get yours from. Mine needs a shove on the way up these days for sure. Think I got 350nm on the bonnet lift struts I added and they are smooth as butter with no effort after the first lift up. Not sure what the boot would need on the estate but I expect the glass weighs a bit so could be similar rating.

Mine (2016 2.0 TDI DSG) has been behaving very similar to this for the last week or so and as far as I'm concerned its normal due to low temperatures and greater electrical demands. From cold the revs are around 1100 for a while. From the HVAC menu button inside the fan speed dial (might be different on your 2017) I have the Auxilliary heater ticked (its an electric heater not run on diesel) the car warms as normal in 3.-4 miles on dual Start stop will kick in fine after a while too then revs go back to normal ~800rpm. Its just being "Simply Clever" and running at optimum revs to keep the battery management happy. As others have said if you turn a few electrical gizmo's off then you may see a change and but get cold toes for a while.

But if you have a tdi, and follow the much debated cambelt and water pump interval at every five years from first date of registration the coolant gets drained in that procedure. So it should not matter. That does I suppose mean the next owner needs to know if the cambelt was done at the correct age. Just a thought.

So in EU only, you can drive and charge a toothbrush legally at the same time.

So as you have now seen, genuine parts and labour at Independent garages, are much more reasonable than the main dealers. TPS (Trade Parts Services) are owned by VW and supply all the genuine VW group parts to all main dealers (Vw Audi, Skoda, Seat) but independents get can get an account as it all just sales and income for the umbrella company. The hence Unit18 will use genuine parts too but save you on labour costs so the price is under 400. I've always shopped around for big service items and the local main dealer price was £550 and another local Independent was more! I got my cambelt and water pump done for £430 with genuine parts. The garage I used has two owners that both previously worked as mechanics in VW and Audi garages and just set up on their own. I have a good relationship with them now, and just had inspection service with them for £139 and they give me loan car for the day too as I travel 45 mins to go there on the way out to an area I work in. You clearly have a good recommendation here from @BATVANVRS and as you say the price is excellent. I'm sure your car will be in safe hands with them.

You've not said what engine your car has. We'll need that to provide you with answers to your questions. However: 5 years is fairly normal irrespective of mileage for Vw group cars. New engine if it fails or very big bill. Shop around for prices. My tdi cambelt and water pump at an independent with genuine skoda parts last month cost £430 all in. (Genuine/original are recommended if any warranty left?) Thanks.

So the usual then, fingers with the strength of free climbers to get them spring clips free and a box of band aids to hand.

Amazon music over Bluetooth sounds cracking too for me on my Amundsen Mib2. Mp3 files copied in Itunes to SanDisk SD card at 160kbs sound absolutely fine to me as well. For nostalgic indulgence, I'd love my old Sony headunit and its 6disc changer, that moved between 4 cars in its life, (still in the cupboard and in working order) but all our cd collections, now move in your pocket theses days.

What year is your Vrs if you don't mind telling us. Pre 2015 seems the worst from what I've seen on here. I have 2016 March registered with Amundsen and am happy with its sound over both Bluetooth and from Sd card of Mp3 files copied from CD to Itunes (yes I said CD...lol), and I used to have big ICE back in my younger days. There is a mod for the tweeters (capacitor gets changed) in the front as they let too much mid through and can distort, just search for it on here. Door cards come off simply from what I've seen. I do agree the rears are utter rubbish and sound awful. Nearly took the plunge and got local installer to pop some component Focals with cross overs or pioneers without for around £450 but just never got round to it as it's not at all bad if fader is fully to front.

And DPF soot ash values

Hi all, So car (2.0TDI My 2016 @ 66800miles) had a full service of oil + all filters +brake fluid early last year. I asked Skoda dealer to reset car to fixed oil change intervals but clearly they "forgot" as shown below. So why does it say Inspection 8900 miles or 32 days? Is that correct if they did not reset to fixed? I am aware I might have inadvertently pressed the trip reset button too long and it may have reset "inspection" days perhaps but not sure what that did as did not see service menu before i did this. I got a text from the dealer pointing out I was due an "inspection" soon, but what would they do for just an inspection if they don't do oil. I cannot see that listed anywhere online? As I will be taking charge of what I want done when, I will take it "somewhere" still for an oil change within the next two weeks as that will be 10k miles since last, and don't want to run my car on variable regime as my annual mileage is ~10-12k. Looking at costs again as pointed out very regularly on here its a total minefield depending on dealer. Skoda UK fixed price for oil and inspection is £184 but my local dealer where I took it last year online shows £199 for "Oil and Inspection". Another dealer further away says oil and filter for £119 or inspection service with 10k interval with oil and various other "checks" for £185.

Took the plunge and have purchased Hex V2 over the weekend interested to to know if I will see much difference in speed it reads modules? On my own MY16 Octy the Hex -Can was very slow even on new laptop. I've got Admaps for all controllers saved for my car, and I've made a good few adaptions. Will I need to rerun them all again with my dongle? Any coding changes I have made are stored in the logs folder (I think) can the new dongle pick up those files too or are they created for each dongle type? Thanks all.

7P0810773F fuel flap locking actuator part number.

I was also told by Kwikfit that if mine was out that I would need to go elsewhere. its not that they cannot check the geometry they have the correct kit to do that (mine certainly have a hunter system now), they just don't have the equipment to ensure your safety systems (front Assist, emergency braking etc) will still be correctly aligned too if they were to re-align the front geometry. If you Google "ADAS wheel alignment" you will find some places that now offer this. The reason is that the front RADAR could become out of calibration when the wheel alignment is changed. I can see why to a degree it has to "look" in the right direction and tracking/camber could alter this. Its quite an involved job (no doubt initial outlay of kit is not cheap either) with the Radar/ Car being all pointed at a target board and then hooked into diagnostics to ensure the X,y,x axis of the radar is in the right place. Your call I guess on how far out it actually is from specified values.

In the menu structure of the Amundsen you will see "Smartlink" . This is a dealer enabled option at around £140. Previous owner might have done this already if you're lucky. But as said map updates are free from the portal onto the genuine SD card ( that hopefully you will get when you get the car) via a PC. They are big files 16Gb or so. There are several threads on how to preform the update which involves formatting the SD card and copying the file onto it. If using a MAC it gets a bit more complicated.

My 2.0 tdi dsg SEL registered March 2016 has halogens and headlight washers. I've recently changed the bulbs to Osram Nightbreakers lasers for the dipped beam (H7) and Cool blue intense for the full beam ( H15) which also has the drl bulb as part of it. Easy to change them out. They are a good improvement especially the full beam. Punches through the dark very well. I'm very pleased with the spec on the SEL. About they only thing it does not have is adaptive cruise control (but it does have Front Assist) and Smartlink (for android auto or apple car play) is not activated but can live without that. Regards.

👍 Good choice. What year? It's a cracking car in that spec. A few simple mods will make it just right. Superskoda boot lights Bonnet struts to make easy access for routine engine bay checks. And check the coolant tank for discoloration. It should be bright pink. See this thread for further details. Its a "CAN" happen fault. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/487819-bag-in-coolant/

I've calculated it manually so real life and accurate. I don't drive hard but don't granny about either.