numskull

Sounds like a turbo or injection issue. But it’s odd there’s no fault codes.

The NS also warns if you’re cutting in too early when overtaking. I only noticed this when a twerp on my NS decided to pull out as I was overtaking them and I had to accelerate more and get fully in front of them as they continued to blindly go about their manoeuvre.

There maybe three. The OE one I have is also double sided, but it is twice the length of the boot and is folded L2R across the centre. The side which one usually sees and uses has the same material finish as the boot floor itself, which means you can still use the load fixers. However this spilt 60/40 down the middle and these flaps can be lifted and put across either, or both seat backs to protect them from damage. On the reverse is thick, hard wearing grey plastic which protects the boot floor and seat backs when carrying longer loads or general cr@p to the recycling centre. I also have the OE plastic floor protector which is actually very thick, so maybe the later versions are thinner plastic?

Ours is 10 next March and is currently on 52k and will probably be around 58 by its birthday. There’s a possible wheel bearing at the rear in the way out, and the usual suspension creaks, but apart from that, touch wood, it’s all OK. Still absolutely love the car and have no intention of selling it. In the 6 1/2 years we’ve owned it I’ve still never had the balls to floor it, as the way it heads to the outside lane, making other drivers have a double-take as you pass them and hit illegal speeds at even 70% of full throttle, it still gives me goosebumps. This year, I’d like to get the leather on the drivers seat and steering wheel refurbished, primarily to remove the glossing if that’s possible and to clean the stitching too. I’m planning to fully clean the underside, arches and wheels during the summer break. The only upgrade I’d like is to get the DCC slide control. I did consider getting a VC a couple of years back but having recently driven a VW ID3 and a Kia Sportage with VC’s I still prefer the original analogue dials. I think the 272/280’s will become sought after in another 10 years, given their true Q Car status. Whoops - seem’t’ve massively gone off topic…🙄

This is the original MIB you have fitted?

Which actually does work really well.

It’s not a Ford, so there are no visible elements. However, it’s also not as fast or effective either. My wife’s 2003 Focus clears its frosted screen in less than half the time it takes the superb to even begin to show signs it’s started.

Blimey, quick. What did you use?

Photo might help.

Just a thought. You might get something similar on AliExpress.

Unfortunately, I’d say you’d have no chance of getting those separately. What’s happened to yours; been nicked/broken?

Ours leaked about three years ago, in exactly the same place.

In a nutshell, spacers won’t improve “performance”, but they’ll provide a better visual “fill” of the tyres to the wheelarch. A Racechip GTS will give you an improvement of around 45PS and 75 nm of torque. I’ve been running one, plus their XLR throttle box for four years and I’m very happy with them both. I also had their diesel version on the CR170 MKII and was very happy with that too.

I’m not going down the ICE vs. home HiFi rabbit hole again. I’m not into DSP stuff when listening to music and the vast majority of stuff I listen to in the car is spoken word when driving and DVD’s / MP4 / MKV / TV when parked so for that, it is excellent. What amp is driving the B&W’s?

I LOVE to see 30avg on mine… closer to 20 unfortunately.

Best standard ICE I’ve had in any car. As for bass, I don’t really understand how much overwhelming bass is really needed, but then again I’m an old fart. Midrange is great.

Big cost SILTB.

No, as I just wanted the outer case, but I recalled they had the versions with the transponders fitted.

In reality, the OE supplier might be charging these to VW at €25 a side. So x that by ‘000s of vehicles and you get why they’ve deleted the passenger side autodim unit.

Here you go. You’ll need to get your current key cloned. I have one and it’s identical to the OE unit. ￡5.28 | Liberty Keyless Go Remote Car Key 3 Buttons 434MHz MQB 48 Chip FOB For VW Volkswagen Passat B8Superb A7 Magotan MQB48 2015-2019 https://a.aliexpress.com/_EQUmtE8

Needs to be coded to the car perhaps?

Given the mirror glass alone is £300-odd quid (you might get one from a breakers of course) I couldn’t justify it, but I know how annoying it must be.

Wow, that’s an amazing price and about what I paid in 2020. Can I ask where you live? I ask ‘cos in our case, there’s absolutely NO chance of getting anything like that with Aviva here in London. We’re a bit younger than both you, both on the policy with 5k annually and parked on the drive. Aviva quoted £926 last year with a compulsory £500 excess! The cheapest I’ve found in the last two years has been the site sponsor Chris Knott. It was £360 in ‘23 and £410 last year with protected NC and a £370 excess in both cases. I shop around every year and the market prices went insane from ‘22 when people began driving again in big numbers and it is still hardening. 🙄

Can you tell us who your broker is then?

Holy feck! 😳