numskull

Hilarious. And they wonder why more and more customers lose trust in the dealer network. I guess you need a new engine when a water pump fails too… 🙄

I’d still have it changed at 60k.

Whoops… that’ll teach me from being a SA! Soz about that. Do you have it on the highest setting? Yeah, this is weird all right, but I don’t understand why or, indeed, how a DSG would make engine acceleration “sluggish”.

Unfortunately, every Skoda, VW, Audi and Seat with the same rear ww unit, all have this feature and I’m sure that your Karoq, in time, will do the same.

Yep, the standard accelerator is laggy to say the least. I found it to be exactly the same when I got the 280. Get a Racechip XLR pedal box. You can return it if it doesn’t meet your requirements. Much cheaper than a remap I suspect.

I used to get 60 on a run in the MKII and I once got 71 on the MKI and averaged 58 over 98k miles. Raulsas, I definitely think the 1.4/1.5 is the engine you should aim to get.

Anecdotally, Android units seem to be more troublesome than iOS across the board.

I’d quite like to upgrade to a VC, but having “used” (that’s a laugh) a head unit with virtual buttons, they’re an absolute PITA. I also just can’t justify what, £1,500 for hardware - £700 of the VC and similar for the Columbus 2.5, plus fitting of course, so I’m guessing £2k all up? I can afford it, just can’t get my head around the cost-benefit. I’m happy with the satnav as the regular updates are great and the Canton system sounds amazing for an OE system. I’m also a bit anal when it come to keeping a car BS = bog standard, which was one of the reasons why I chose to go down the Racechip route as opposed to a remap. Just my opinion of course, as I’d never have the brass-neck to tell someone they’re idiots for splashing out that that amount to upgrade their car.

I agree with Colin; knackered battery on the stop/start problem. And the issues you had with the Christmas tree lights on the dash sound identical to the rear wheel sensor issue I had. Can I ask; was this a private or trade sale? You have redress if the latter.

Thanks - I’ve never used that function, but I’ll give its a try. 👍🏻

If I haven’t engaged reverse in the first instance, I do not get a “visualisation” on the screen from the front sensors, just the bleeping. So if I were to park front in on our drive, as I approach the house, the sensors would bleep but that’s it. If I reverse in, the full visualisation appears, giving front, rear and side distance positioning. Just curious; what are those square blocks indicating that are shown on the pic you uploaded? EDIT and UPDATE Apologies. Ignore my first post. It seems I’ve just never noticed that the visualisation (as per your edited pic) does appear when the front sensors pick-up an obstruction.

There you go….

They’re truly ghastly. Our 280 has 19” anthracite Trinity, which I think were the standard L&K alloys in 2016.

Just interested. Can I ask the reason why?

Welcome to Briskoda cmw1965 and sorry for the lack of a response back in October. I’m pleased you found a good indy and ditched the main dealer network. I did the same in early ‘21 after being told by Lookers that it needed a new cambelt; best bit of advice they ever gave me as I never looked back. 👍🏻

Yet another post from me to say the 280 (now 320 or there abouts) is the best car I’ve owned or driven as a company car and that includes vehicles like Escort and Sierra Cosworth 2 and 4x4, Scorpio Cosworth, Fiat Turbo Coupe, Nissan 200SX. Oh, and a few Ford Luton’s and Transits! So, I won’t be selling it. Next big job with be getting it rustproofed in the Summer so I need to investigate and select the best products and supplier.

Can’t disagree with that. The rears on our original P7 still had 4mm after 37k and 3mm on the fronts. Changed them in Dec 23 for Conti AllSeason as we were travelling to Donegal that Christmas. Really fantastic grip in the slushy and icy conditions there and, as a massive bonus, a HUGE reduction of tyre roar in the cabin! The P7’s were even noisier on the 280 than the Kelly Springfield tyres were, which I had on my ‘71 Cooper S; I think they were probably made of coal! 😊

Your choice is dependent on many factors, including upfront cost, fuel and insurance costs. What’s your budget? Manual or DSG? And annual mileage?

I’ll get the indy I use to change the coolant when it has its annual oil change next month.

Anyone know if the VAG Silikat cartridge will fit in a standard header tank?

Given that was probably not cheap, can it be returned?

I replaced the OE Silikat header tank yesterday with a non silikat unit. Took about 15 minutes from start to finish. Using hose clip pliers, I removed the top hose from the tank first (which took the most amount of time during the whole job, as it was very reluctant to budge!) then freed-up the plastic hose support bracket connected to the side of the tank. Then, I applied upward pressure on the rear of the tank and using a flat blade screwdriver, I undid the two clips on the top rear of the tank until they’d become disconnected and finally, using both hands, I yanked the bottom fixing out of the hole in the wheelarch and the tank was free. I then turned the tank 45 degrees and removed the bottom hose, and quickly turned the tank upside down whilst keeping a finger on the top hose inlet. I then emptied the G13 into a jug and then installed the new tank, replaced the G13 from the old tank, topped it up with fresh G13 to the top of the min mark and then ran the car upto temp to check for leaks.

mine was found when they were fixing an airco leak. You could see the staining on the engine block. Brace yourself for a big bill. 😖

Skoda love rejecting water ingress warranty claims, cos naturally, all components such as these that, y’know, get wet are designed (badly) to take in water and fail. 🙄

IIRC, I think they were 8mm. They’ve done 8k since I got them in Dec 23 so I can measure them and report back. WHAT - a whole FIVE YEARS?!!? Clearly he’s the goto SME then… 🙄