numskull

JMO, but it appears to be a total waste of time and effort, as there doesn’t seem to be any real performance improvements, just the introduction of a load of annoying creaks and clanking. And, no doubt, it cost a bloody fortune too?

Yeah, I’ve update my post to reflect that. In the intervening 4 years, they almost doubled in the option cost.

From the start, but they were a £425 option in 2016. I’ve just seen they became standard later in the MKIII L&K.

My advise is….just get a bodyshop to paint it. Rattle can paint inevitably looks terrible, primarily due to user ignorance.

Car spec? Year? Head unit type? iOS or Android? Wired or Bluetooth link? When did this first occur?

Just to clarify; not all L&K versions have ventilated front seats.

I changed mine about two years ago I think. I didn’t buy an OE one, but a dirt cheap one from eBay. I decided to keep the G13 coolant in place and added a VW silikat cartridge, which is far more substantial than the teabag used in the OE tank. Also, the cap is dead easy to open and close and it hasn’t had any ill effects on the performance.

Hi, We could do with a bit more information to help identify the issue, I think. Does the noise have a continuous “tone” if the engine is idling or at higher RPM or does the noise make a faster, higher pitch when the engine speed is increased? Is it audible continuously or is it intermittent? Does the noise appear when the car is stationary, being driven or both? If it’s only audible when it’s being driven, does the noise correlate to suspension movements?

Installation is pretty straightforward. Detaching the VW connectors was the most difficult thing! If it’s anything like the one I have, you do have to drop the engine undertray to get to the correct sensor, so you will need axle stands or ramps to get under the front of the car.

Interesting. What’s the need / desire to have a portable CD player in the car? Edit. OK. Just read your original post. I’d doubt it would connect to the car as I would think they are primarily designed to connect to headphones. What type of head unit do you have?

Return it to a dealer? It’s not the sort of stuff one dumps on the side of the road or down a drain.

I bought those. They’re cr@p for exactly the reason you’re querying yours; they don’t illuminate all the way to the end of the unit. They’re sat in a box in the basement.

This happened to our Superb a few years ago. The OSR ABS sensor had failed. Cost around £250 to replace, but looking at the vid @Danoid posted (thank you!) it looks to be a pretty easy DIY job.

Great. No idea who “TestTyres.SI” are or their credentials, so perhaps you should look at a respected review site. Oh look… here you go. The Conti AllSeason2 come out third. 🙄 I’m now off as I have better things to do….

OK…. I really can’t recall experiencing aquaplaning to any great degree during my 50 years of driving (& boy I had some really crap tyres on owned cars in the ‘70’s and 80’s - anyone remember those made by Kelly Springfield?) and I lower my speed when driving across standing water. As for a “dead spot”, well in your “explanation” you described what I’d call normal course correction due to road camber or road surface conditions. I looked “dead spot” up in relation to tyres and I can’t find anything apart from flat spot, which can happen when you have a flat area on the tyre caused by standing for a long period under inflated, but I don’t think it can be that. So you’re right, I’m sure I don’t understand what it is but I also think you don’t understand what it is either, but I’m sure it’s been mentioned in all the tyre tests you’ve read so please enlighten me. You’ve had the input and advice from 15 members, some of whom have given their experience or pointed you to information yet it seems you either want confirmation of the perfect AllSeason tyre, which does not exist, or you’re now just very confused.

What specification Superb do you have? Move the mirror control knob to the 0 position. Turn the ignition on. Now turn the mirror adjustment knob to bottom left position; do the mirrors fold in? If not, the switch might be broken or there could be a fault in the wiring.

Then why ask an owner of an Audi A4 Avant Quattro 3.0 petrol, if he prefers the Vectors fitted to that or the Cross Climates fitted to the Superb?

One thing you should know is regardless of what anyone recommends, unless the tyres are on the same car as yours, the recommendation is effectively pointless. PS - The Conti AllSeason I have on our Superb are excellent. The AllSeason2 are supposedly even better.

I mine must be due then; on 53k now.

As haven’t tried all available makes of all season tyres I can’t speak to the performance of all the others, but the Conti AllSeason I have fitted are excellent, and were #2 in the tyre review when I bought them in late 23. If Michelin had the same price offer as Conti at the time, I’d’ve probably gone with them.

They seem really well made. I’d go for those.

Well said @Ootohere .

I’ve just driven 360 miles in 25-32c temperatures and their performance appears to be unaffected. I think during these tests, tyres are driven to extremes. I remember when I was financially embarrassed a few years ago and bought a set of budget tyres - Accelera I think the were - and was then throttled as these were “appalling” and “ditchfinders”. They were just fine. You mean like driving on snow… or ice? 🙄

Interesting. I wonder what a “wide dead spot” actually means? Certainly I can’t fault the AllSeason Contact 1. The grip is outstanding in wet, dry and snow; they’re quiet and wear level is really low.

No, the Contact 1. Got them in Dec ‘23. I’m guessing the 2 are at least as good, if not better.