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Sanqhar

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Everything posted by Sanqhar

  1. I got this from a thread regarding the "sticking flap" problem. The thread seems to be about a Superb but the diagram looks similar to the Karoq filler. The drain hose looks like a push fit in this diagram. Could you reinsert from the top and then squirt some water down it to see where it comes out? The interesting bit is the instruction "Pull the drain hose -4- out of the unit.". It seems to imply that putting it back is just a reverse of the procedure. This thread has a video: https://www.karoqforums.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=1059&sid=49af9ddf394050a363fe78ce20b1608a tom
  2. Sanqhar replied to Colchristie's topic in Skoda Karoq
    +1 for Asda. I bought four tyres and the dealer who fitted them could get nowhere near the Asda price . tom
  3. My Start/Stop rarely works due to the usage the car gets. No warning however. The car charges the battery when other power demands are low. S/S needs a battery with a good state of charge. Also charging is often on overrun. I did a 130 mile journey last week and surprise surprise the S/S returned. Back to my normal short journeys and it disappears. You could try putting the battery on a charger and see if a fully charged battery clears the message. tom
  4. I understand why the rear proximity sensors are disabled when the bike rack is fitted. I don't understand why the front is also disabled. Isn't the automatic bit of the cruise control a radar function? Sounds like a coding issue, take it back to the dealer who installed the tow bar. tom
  5. I meant bucket and whatever just to clean the mirrors, do the rest of the car your usual way. tom
  6. Do you use a pressure washer? There's your answer. How about a careful cleaning using bucket and sponge and then putting a plastic bag over each mirror before using a hose or the washer. I would be careful because of any electrics inside the mirror. tom
  7. What tyres are fitted? From new the Bridgestone Turanzas on ours did this scrabbling turning out of tight junctions. tom
  8. This thread has descended to a battle of wits between unarmed men. tom
  9. Glad to know the Construction and Use Regulations are just a figment of imagination. tom
  10. Yeah alright. You are not taking into account computer intervention. tom
  11. In the UK the tolerance is 10%... but the speedo is not aloud to under read. Google it. tom
  12. Another, no doubt not cheap, alternative: https://insideevs.com/news/680018/pender-ebike-rack-easy-lift/ Many years ago VW did something similar. tom
  13. Is the Karoq heavier? The aerodynamics must be worse. Beyond these it's subjective. tom
  14. One way used with motorcycle plastics is to form a zig zag with a paperclip, lay it on and 'melt' it in by pushing it down with a soldering iron. Another way is to 'weld' it by using a soldering iron with a zip tie as the welding rod. There are many videos on YouTube, this is but one as an example: ...just search "plastic repair" (without the quotes) tom
  15. I only have a problem with the centre seat. The seat hook would only reach one of the headrests with a lot of effort. I ended up leaving a tough zip tie permanently on the headrest making the hook easier to use. Easier and probably safer than a metal hook. tom
  16. It’s the rear windows that buffet on ours when open. Tom
  17. I thought the dipping passenger mirror was only available on cars with electric seats. tom
  18. Is this a dealer warranty or a Skoda warranty? If it is a Skoda warranty then escalate the issue to Skoda. tom
  19. Sanqhar replied to Figgis's topic in Skoda Karoq
    Is this the hidden files problem well talked about? Thought you have to use the Skoda card because of the hidden files. tom
  20. If the noise is only when the aircon is on then it is most likely the compressor or the compressor clutch. The compressor via its clutch is only activated when the aircon is on. Try listening for it with the bonnet open and someone else is switching the aircon on and off. tom
  21. This different levels/capacities for different engines emphasises the importance of reading and abiding by the vehicle manual. I have a motorcycle that uses a 450cc BMW engine originally designed to race the Paris Dakar. The engine oil capacity for this effectively race engine is 1litre (not a typing error). Of course the oil would probably be changed daily in its designed for use. The engine has been seriously detuned for road use There is a set procedure for checking the oil level: "Always make sure that the oil level is correct. The oil level varies with the temperature of the oil. The higher the temperature, the higher the level of oil in the sump. Checking the oil level with the engine cold or after no more than a short ride will lead to misinterpretation; this in turn, means that the engine will be operated with the incorrect quantity of oil. In order to ensure that the engine oil level is read correctly, check the oil level only after a lengthy trip or sufficient engine warming. Allow the engine to idle until the fan starts up then allow it to idle one minute longer. Switch off the engine. Make sure the engine is at operating temperature and hold the motorcycle upright. Check the oil in the oil level inspection window." On this particular engine when cold no oil shows in the inspection window. Many new owners seeing this, and without having read the manual, would then top up. The result was the excess oil blowing out through the breather into the airbox which then drained all over the engine. For those unfamiliar with bikes, many do not have dipsticks just a window in the side of the sump so the level can be visually checked. This is an extreme example and I post it just to illustrate how different things can be for different engines. Back to the old adage RTFM. tom
  22. Most advice is to check the oil 10 to 15 minutes after switching off (the manual says "a few minutes"). This ensures most of the oil in the engine has drained into the sump. Checking when hot i.e. when there is still oil in the system that has not yet drained into the sump can result in over filling. If you can't remove the oil yourself with say a thin tube down the dipstick hole you could look for a local small garage that does oil changes via the dipstick and see if they can remove some. According to model the oil capacity is between 4 and 4.7 litres, so a litre overfill (if it is that much) is quite a lot. See https://oil-change.info/skoda-karoq-nu7-2018-engine-oil-capacity/ The Manual on page 268 says fill 0.5 Litre at a time. "Check the oil under the following conditions and refill.  The vehicle is on a horizontal surface.  The engine operating temperature is reached.  The engine is turned off. Checking the level › Wait a few minutes until the engine oil flows back into the oil trough. › Remove the dipstick and wipe with a clean cloth. › Push the dipstick to the stop and pull out again. › Read the oil level and push in the dipstick. The oil level must be in range A » Fig. 307. If the oil level is below the range A , refill the oil." Tom
  23. As per the number, 2.5 mm as against 3.2mm. tom
  24. Sanqhar replied to Alexburridge's topic in Skoda Karoq
    Do a search on this forum for "Moll" (with or without quotes). There have been problems in the past. tom

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