xman

DO NOT USE THIS FILE I've downloaded this file using my VIN twice to eliminate possible download issues, the checksums being consistent so downloaded correctly. Testing the file with 7-zip's test function, it has numerous invalid headers for the files it contains. Therefore the zip file has been incorrectly built or stored corrupted on Skoda's servers and is not useable.

Is there a clunk when lifting off and putting on power? Then its probably a failed/failing differential bearing. Can be checked with car on a ramp and check for side play on the output shaft by twisting and pulling at the same time, there should be none. Check tyres as said, and the wheel bearings. Wheel bearings can be checked by lifting the wheel off the ground, place one hand on the middle section of the suspension spring and spin the wheel eith the other. You will feel the vibration in the spring if the wheel bearing is failing.

I think most VAG engines have had this design for several years now. First cover around the open oil filler with a couple of layers of absorbent kitchen paper towel to catch any accidental spills. Use an empty one litre oil bottle. Decant 0.75 litre from the 4 or 5 litre container into the empty 1 litre bottle ( empty castrol edge 1 litre bottles have a nice wide opening ) then its dead easy to get the bottle neck close over the filler opening and slowly fill without surging. Obviously aim at the open part not covered by the plastic splash back, and take your time. Provided you don't rush it, even if oil goes over the plastic guard, it will run down into the engine without overflowing and spilling. How you hold the bottle is important too, twist the bottle round and keep the neck of the bottle high, to eliminate possibility of oil gulping out. Repeat, keeping tally of the total poured. Stop when you're about a litre short, check the dipstick, and add a bit at a time, checking and stop when you're half way up the hatched area on the stick. Close the filler. Start and run the engine to fill the oil filter etc for about a couple of minutes. Stop the engine and give it a couple of minutes then recheck dipstick, topping up to half way. Then go for a run to heat the engine up , park on the level, stop the engine, and after 5 minutes recheck the oil level and top up as necessary. Do not go above the hatched area. I personally prefer to keep the oil level about 3/4 up the hatched area. Especially if the engine has been installed on the p!ss as seems to be common practice in Skoda. Don't attempt to fill straight from a 4 or 5 litre container, the oil will inevitably surge out uncontrollably as air gulps back into the container. And its too heavy to hold steadily. Don't think a funnel would help at all as it can't go very far into the filler so you'd have to hold it with one hand, recipe for disaster!

Thanks for all the suggestions, didnt realise there are purpose built wiper pullers out there. Might consider getting one from ebay. Yet more expense... Don't have a nut splitter, doubt it work on the soft alloy. Might just hacksaw it off if I can find a blade somewhere in the chaos of my garage

A dimly lit battery light with engine running is usually associated with one of the rectifier diodes having failed or become disconnected. Either the big ones in the stator circuit or the small ones in or supplying the regulator. Idle voltage with little auxillary load should be be around 14 to 14.3 volts maybe a little lower in high temperature environments.

Another job I wish I hadn't started ... after fitting a new bosch blade and it making no difference whatsoever, leaving the centre of the window unwiped, on closer inspection found the plastic mounting base of the wiper arm had split. So attempted to remove the arm. The securing nut came off surprisingly easy but then trying to remove the arm off what I presume is a spline proved impossible. Eventually I pulled the broken plastic part away, leaving the alloy collar that is, I believe, part of the wiper arm. Had penetrating oil on it overnight and even tried a little but probably insignificant heat from a hair dryer but no way is this collar shifting. So first of all, am I correct the alloy collar is on a spline? ( See pic below) Any suggestions on how to remove without damage to the wiper motor or glass? Should I try hacksawing it off (not much room), I considered making up some kind of puller, but thats not really something I feel inclined to do.

Assuming you bought your car new in the UK If the extended warranty was purchased at or before date of first registration, it is probably a factory extended warranty and all claims are authorised directly by the factory in Czechia. It has the same conditions as the standard 2 year factory warranty you get with the new car and you should refer to the warranty document that was in force at date of first registration, these terms change slightly from time to time but broadly are the same. Here is a factory warranty document dated Nov 2018 SKODA_Warranty_Terms_November_2018.pdf A dealer will have to go through the hoops required by the Skoda factory before any claim is authorised. If you purchased the extended warranty after first registration, then this is a Skoda UK (VAG) financial services product. The terms and exclusions are different to the factory warranty. You need to check the appropriate document to see the terms. A dealer will need to go through the VAG financial services hoops to get authorisation. You can phone VAG financial services and ask whether your extended warranty is with them or whether it is a factory extended warranty. Tel 0330433782 https://insurewithskoda.co.uk/extended-warranty#online-documents In both cases it may require diagnostic work to be carried out before the claim is submitted or authorised, and the customer may be required to pay for this up front, if the claim is successful the charge is refunded. If not, then the money is not refunded.

I don't have any experience with PD but earlier Tdi with VNT (AFN) a common problem was leaking at the vacuum reservoir, a tennis ball size/shape plastic thing ,Item 5 below (on ATD)

Just checked, ATD is a PD 1.9 engine so my comment re flashing coil light probably wrong was thinking of the older TDI with rotary pump injection. I also think that this PD engine has a conventional wastegate turbo so no vanes to stick but check to make sure. Limp mode will trigger an OBD error code which can be read with a reader. Obviously best read before the engine is turned off.

No, from his earlier description and the graph there is some boost. What his graph does show is the MAF output is not scaling linearly, mostly nil output and spiking every now and again. i.e. Its probably duff Iirc limp mode with 1.9tdi engines usually is accompanied with a flashing coil light on the dash

Problems with the turbo control system and vacuum pipes will usually cause an underboost or overboost and triggers limp mode and then you get no boost at all until the ignition is cycled. Also remember the vacuum pump is shared between the turbo control and the brake servo, so check for splits in the brake servo vacuum pipes

Again rarely works, more myth than fact.

Cleaning the MAF sensor rarely helps on this engine. The type fitted basically slowly burns its sensor element away over time and its output drifts, fooling the ecu into thinking the airflow is low, so backs off the fuelling to prevent it smoking and limiting top end power. Doesn't cause limp mode which turbo related problems would. They are pretty cheap, just replace it. Btw a blocked air filter would give similar symptoms.

Classic MAF sensor drift symptom. Try a new MAF sensor Make sure you get the correct part no for your engine

Best let a garage assess the damage. The 1.4tsi engine has a steel sump afaik so difficult to see that being holed, though still possible, maybe the oil level sensor (plastic) which is under the sump got knocked or the sump distorted and started leaking there. It may have damage the sensor mount so the sump may need replacing too. Both parts not that expensive, and shouldnt take too long to change by a good mechanic, you will also need to change any contaminated belts. The belt in the picture is the auxillary drive belt (cheap to replace) the cambelt is under a sealed cover (not so cheap to replace) but may have escaped contamination. If you drove any distance with a red (as opposed to yellow) oil warning light (i.e. no oil pressure) you may have damaged the engine internally, that could be very expensive. For reference https://www.skoda-parts.com/catalog/octavia-3/spare-parts/engine/engine-block-oil-sump-15.html?strana=2&sort=&query=

Unless your battery is leaking acid or gassing due to being knackered or overcharging there is absolutely no need for any lubricant, jelly or grease anywhere near the battery terminals. Most of these products are excellent electrical insulators so not exactly desirable on terminal posts prior to fitting the connectors. They are also great at collecting dirt. Not used at new car build and not necessary.

Is the video above related to this journey? Looks like it is. I'm interested in how it cost only £18 while using ionity chargers. From what I can google, Skoda enyaq tarriffs are between 35p to 69p per kwhr depending on package chosen. Or is there some Octopus Go or freebie charge initially on this particular journey thats included? How much did it cost to come back home?

20mm front 16mm rear according to Brembo https://www.bremboparts.com/europe/en/catalogue/skoda-karoq-nu7-2-0-tdi-4x4/000128289-1?producttypes=Pad&isProductListFiltered=true

A few early 1.5tsi engined Superbs suffered from the dreaded kangaroo problem, more noticeable on manuals than autos. Best to test drive from a cold start on a cold day. Also check if any hesitation when pulling away quickly from a standstill at a junction or roundabout when some would sit and do nothing for a couple of seconds, think that affected autos more than manuals. Supposedly software updates are available to fix those issues, with varying degrees of success. 1.4tsi is a much better engine Always check the the rear disc brake condition, they are made out of blue cheese and often require replacing at ridiculously short mileages (due to under use)

Just connect the phone with bluetooth and use the built in infotainment Bluetooth media player to play songs off your phone

You misunderstand micro hybrid charging strategy. Switching off stop/start does not mean the battery will get charged over 80% or more. The ~80% SOC is an average target that the battery management will try to maintain over the medium term. The 20% up to 100% is "headroom" to allow energy to be harvested when the engine is on the overrun, slowing the car as a supplement to the brakes. Energy recovery using the alernator as an electrical brake, this is when the SOC is allowed to climb towards 100% Energy recovery is restricted by the charge acceptance of the battery. AGM has higher charge acceptance (quicker/higher current) than EFB, new batteries better than old, temperature dependent. A SOC of 80% or more means sufficient capacity remains for smooth stop/start operation to run auxillary electrical loads during engine stop as well as the engine restart. In practice the target will vary quite a bit, if you have lots of electical demand, headlights, fans, radio,wipers, heated seats perhaps the battery management will maintain a slightly higher level to ensure stop/start is possible, or it may decide to disable stop/start because the electrical load is too high, or SOC is too low or the battery is tired (HOC). Then there is the scenario that you put your foot down and accelerate, the alternator will turn off and allow the battery to take the electrical load, saving a bit of fuel in the anticipation that it can recover it later during an overrun/brake phase. If SOC trends too low or very high electrical loads are present the alternator output will be turned up to compensate. In practice micro hybrid is a complex mix of calcs, voltage/current/temperature/time measurements, estimates, a bit of guesswork and propriety algorithms. In short, switching off Stop/start will not alter the ~80% target, but it will stop the battery cycling to lower SOC by prevent the engine stopping. As the car can't anticipate when you will turn off the engine (maybe it could if you navigate using the on board sat nav to a destination, but I doubt it does that) then SOC when the car is parked could be different to the 80% but on average it probably will be close(ish)

In 2017/2018 the 1.4tsi SEL exec had the 10" Columbus infotainment (MIB2.5) which also had a DVD player tucked away in the glovebox along with 2 SD slots, user SIM slot. You can upgrade the MAPs yourself free of charge whenever a new map is published (twice a year) easily using the SD card slot, or USB stick. You need to confirm this, but IIRC later models after the facelift with 1.5tsi engine downgraded to the smaller less feature Amundsen unit which I believe is also the newer MIB3 design. No DVD, external SD slots or user SIM. I believe you can only update maps online using Skoda Connect which is a subscription service and as it has a built in sim, data IIRC requires an expensive annual datasim contract with Skoda's partner, no choice. Could maybe update at Skoda dealer? No idea about latest Columbus (MIB3) MIB3 in other models is known to have software issues, though I dont know if this affects the units fitted to facelift Superbs. Coding Mods were also securely locked out with MIB3. I may be wrong so do some digging, hopefully someone will come along and give the full picture. My early 2018 1.4tsi SEL exec, everything works fine.

I read somewhere that PHEVs are programmed to fire up the ICE engine occasionally in the interest of keeping the ICE servicable e.g. lubricated etc. Might also be to charge up the 12 volt battery which iirc is not charged by the plug in charger but only when the car is actually driving (electric or ICE). The ICE kicks in when SOC is too low.

A picture of your particular label would help

Oh dear, the Octavia Mk4. Yet more evidence of lack of any proper testing of software and pointing to inexperienced or inappropriate software developers being used, possibly working from a poorly designed written specification with no car to test it on. Possibly a cheap subcontractor in a distant country. Sync should lock dual/tri zone temperature control to the drivers side control and be "sticky" (remembered until cancelled by pressing sync again or using a passenger control ). Works correctly in my 2018 mk3 superb (mib2.5) as does everything else.